Swaybar Bushing Upgrade
- Thread starter CJ3Flyr
- Start date
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
Loosen the frame mounted bushings on both sides. I found it works best on level ground, steering wheel straight ahead. Loosen the side you are NOT working on so it's hanging loose by a few threads. Work on the other side. After you get the new bushing just start the bolts and go do the other side (the first side you loosened). That method gave me enough flop/slop that it was easy. Good luck!
:cheers:
jpless
New member
thanks chris! I actually got antsy before you replied and did exactly what you said and it worked great! I wasn't completely flat so it took a little strength to get the bar back into position but not bad.
Now i'm 2/3 there! Have the endlinks and the fronts done, just waiting on bbumbles to reply about the rears! I'd prefer to give the money to a member versus more to summit!
Now i'm 2/3 there! Have the endlinks and the fronts done, just waiting on bbumbles to reply about the rears! I'd prefer to give the money to a member versus more to summit!
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
RonMAIDEN
Super Moderator
I'm going to try these soon.
WabFab Off-Road LLC | 1996-2002 4Runner Quick Disconnects and End Links
Here they are for 4th gens but don't appear to offer quick disconnects.
WabFab Off-Road LLC | 2003-2007 4Runner Quick Disconnects and End Links
WabFab Off-Road LLC | 1996-2002 4Runner Quick Disconnects and End Links
Here they are for 4th gens but don't appear to offer quick disconnects.
WabFab Off-Road LLC | 2003-2007 4Runner Quick Disconnects and End Links
810moto
New member
why the adjustables vs. just the end link bushings alone?
jpless
New member
correct me if I'm wrong but my understanding is the quick-disconnect setups are beneficial for off roading. That is, you can disconnect the end links for more suspension travel when you're off-road. Then, when you're ready to get back on-road you can just quickly connect it back up.
aeathb
New member
I have the front and rear bushings on (they are great), and at the time I ordered them I didn't want to mess with the rear end links. I guess my question is, do taking off the end links take a lot of persuasion or do you just undo the nut and they pop right off? I don't want to be banging on anything violently with a hammer, but re-reading this thread it sounded like force isn't necessary? Thanks
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
Nothing violent at all... Just unbolt them and a minor flex of the bar. Get both sides loose, it'll be easier.
olsen_karl
New member
I finally got around to doing this -- for future searching, here are the parts I used (I found a bunch of different info when searching for the parts, so this might help out someone else interested):
My 4Runner: 2008 4WD SR5 model, stock suspension, non-XREAS. I measured a 30mm front swaybar and 19mm rear swaybar, using calipers. Looking at Energy Suspension's website, they actually list different swaybar diameters for the 4Runner (smaller by a few mm). This didn't make sense, so I bought "generic" greasable swaybar bushing/bracket kits made by Prothane, through Summit Racing.
Below are the part numbers I used. Everything lined up and installed easily with hand tools.
front: 30mm greasable, zerk fitting w/ cap included, red urethane (black was more expensive for some reason): PTP-19-1186 -- $12.95 at Summit:
Prothane Motion Control 19-1186 - Prothane Sway Bar Bushings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
rear: 19mm greasable, zerk fitting w/ cap included, red urethane (black was more expensive for some reason): PTP-19-1162 -- $11.95 at Summit:
Prothane Motion Control 19-1162 - Prothane Sway Bar Bushings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Summit Racing's photos do not show the grease zerk -- it's a generic photo of a swaybar bushing -- but these part numbers DO come with the grease fitting. I used the same red sticky grease that I use for U-joints and general chassis lube.
For the rear swaybar end link, I used some univeral end link bushings I had left over from an old Jeep. As CJ3Flyr mentioned elsewhere in this thread, these are pretty much a one-size-fits-all bushing. I remember buying them at some auto parts store like Pep Boys.
Note for future use: I need to replace 3 of the 4 zerk fittings with angled fittings for easier greasing. The two front fittings are very close to the skidplate, and the driver's side rear fitting points straight at the gas tank -- it'll be hard to fit the grease gun nozzle on these zerks. The fittings unscrew easily from the brackets. If you're installing these brackets, you might save yourself some time later and get new angled zerks before you install the brackets on the 4Runner.
My 4Runner: 2008 4WD SR5 model, stock suspension, non-XREAS. I measured a 30mm front swaybar and 19mm rear swaybar, using calipers. Looking at Energy Suspension's website, they actually list different swaybar diameters for the 4Runner (smaller by a few mm). This didn't make sense, so I bought "generic" greasable swaybar bushing/bracket kits made by Prothane, through Summit Racing.
Below are the part numbers I used. Everything lined up and installed easily with hand tools.
front: 30mm greasable, zerk fitting w/ cap included, red urethane (black was more expensive for some reason): PTP-19-1186 -- $12.95 at Summit:
Prothane Motion Control 19-1186 - Prothane Sway Bar Bushings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
rear: 19mm greasable, zerk fitting w/ cap included, red urethane (black was more expensive for some reason): PTP-19-1162 -- $11.95 at Summit:
Prothane Motion Control 19-1162 - Prothane Sway Bar Bushings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Summit Racing's photos do not show the grease zerk -- it's a generic photo of a swaybar bushing -- but these part numbers DO come with the grease fitting. I used the same red sticky grease that I use for U-joints and general chassis lube.
For the rear swaybar end link, I used some univeral end link bushings I had left over from an old Jeep. As CJ3Flyr mentioned elsewhere in this thread, these are pretty much a one-size-fits-all bushing. I remember buying them at some auto parts store like Pep Boys.
Note for future use: I need to replace 3 of the 4 zerk fittings with angled fittings for easier greasing. The two front fittings are very close to the skidplate, and the driver's side rear fitting points straight at the gas tank -- it'll be hard to fit the grease gun nozzle on these zerks. The fittings unscrew easily from the brackets. If you're installing these brackets, you might save yourself some time later and get new angled zerks before you install the brackets on the 4Runner.
CJ3Flyr
Super Moderator
Awesome advice!
Slightly improve handling? Especially zig-zag/evasive maneuvers? Worth the effort?
:cheers:
was looking at the jegs site and found this: 29mm 2003-2008 4Runner bushings
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