toy4rner
New member
After a lengthy hiatus from wrenching on the 4runner, I decided to give my front end more balls. A 1 year old and a busy job are my excuse
Rig: '99 LTD w/ locker. 191k miles
Parts list from shopTRD.com: $322 free shipping
99 taco lower ball joints
99 taco outer tie rods
(both of the above items have to be replaced if using taco parts b/c the tie rod end which attaches to the taco LBJ is 22mm vs the 19mm 4runner outer tie rod)*
99 4runner upper ball joint
Advance Auto parts: Fenco reman tundra 231mm calipers casting 13WL: $140 for the pair. (had a 30$ discount code at checkout) Plus 5% cash back from fatwallet.com. they took back the weenie 4runner calipers with no questions asked for the full core refund.
Centric slotted rotors: $120 for the pair
Autozone durast gold ceramic pads: I hear these are the same as TRD pads: $50
Autozone 3 arm puller rented.
Tools required:
-3 arm puller (to press UBJ and LBJ out)
- Harbor Freight ball joint separator (worked like a charm to break the connection b/t the upper/lower control arm and respective ball joints plus the tie rod/LBJ connection).....no pickle fork
Link: 3/4" Forged Ball Point Joint Separator
-Assorted sockets/extensions (10, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24mm) 1/2 inch drive
-19 mm box wrench (to hold upper control arm bolt while turning the nut)
-8 mm open ended wrench (bleeder valve)
-Torque wrench 1/2 inch drive
-Snap ring pliers
-Assorted Pliers (needle nose, vice grips)
-2 large shifting spanners (to loosen the outer tie rod locknut and hold the inner tie rod)
-Impact wrench worked like a charm to loosen the 4 bolts securing the LBJ to the spindle ( I've read some of these bolts have been snapping during removal = nightmare which I thankfully did not have )
-Tin snips ( to trim the dust shield...no dremel needed)
-Hammer and breaker bar for persuasion
-Floor jack and jack stands
I live in FL, but my rig came used from VA so I have a decent about of Jap rust on my suspension
Misc: dot 4, nitrile gloves, beer, locktite, etc: $50
Having my neighbors complain about the front end on jack stands for a week: priceless. I did not have a solid block of time and more important I wanted to take my time
Problems:
1) upper ball joint is a mofo to press out. I broke a Chepo 3 arm puller from harbor freight. This is a 2 person job if not going through the process of yanking the spindle (one to work the puller; one to hold the spindle from moving) I did remove the upper control arms to get more room to work
2) the outer tie rod locknut was RUSTED onto the outer tie rod. I had to clamp it in a large vice and pb blast the crap out of it b/c the new tie rods do NOT come with a new lock nut....you have to reuse the old one or order a new one with your Toyota parts)
3) torque for the 4 LBJ bolts. I've gotten a million different answers and was concerned with over/under torquing as a possible cause of failure. 4runner spec is 39lbs and I did mine at 59lbs (since that the taco spec and I'm using taco LBJ's) some guys are torquing > 100 lbs which i think may be too much , but what do I know? Remember to use blue locktite.
Otherwise, no severe injuries occurred which is always good
Links for ball joints
R&R Upper and Lower Ball Joints - TTORA Forum
Tacoma Suspension - Control Arms
Brakes:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ements-231mm-13wl-tundra-calipers-rotors.html
I know....no pics yet, but I pay homage to the links above as these are extremely useful and already have alot of pics.
So the runner feels a million times more solid in the front. Brakes are awesome and may be overkill, but why not?
Feel free to ask any questions
Rig: '99 LTD w/ locker. 191k miles
Parts list from shopTRD.com: $322 free shipping
99 taco lower ball joints
99 taco outer tie rods
(both of the above items have to be replaced if using taco parts b/c the tie rod end which attaches to the taco LBJ is 22mm vs the 19mm 4runner outer tie rod)*
99 4runner upper ball joint
Advance Auto parts: Fenco reman tundra 231mm calipers casting 13WL: $140 for the pair. (had a 30$ discount code at checkout) Plus 5% cash back from fatwallet.com. they took back the weenie 4runner calipers with no questions asked for the full core refund.
Centric slotted rotors: $120 for the pair
Autozone durast gold ceramic pads: I hear these are the same as TRD pads: $50
Autozone 3 arm puller rented.
Tools required:
-3 arm puller (to press UBJ and LBJ out)
- Harbor Freight ball joint separator (worked like a charm to break the connection b/t the upper/lower control arm and respective ball joints plus the tie rod/LBJ connection).....no pickle fork
Link: 3/4" Forged Ball Point Joint Separator
-Assorted sockets/extensions (10, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24mm) 1/2 inch drive
-19 mm box wrench (to hold upper control arm bolt while turning the nut)
-8 mm open ended wrench (bleeder valve)
-Torque wrench 1/2 inch drive
-Snap ring pliers
-Assorted Pliers (needle nose, vice grips)
-2 large shifting spanners (to loosen the outer tie rod locknut and hold the inner tie rod)
-Impact wrench worked like a charm to loosen the 4 bolts securing the LBJ to the spindle ( I've read some of these bolts have been snapping during removal = nightmare which I thankfully did not have )
-Tin snips ( to trim the dust shield...no dremel needed)
-Hammer and breaker bar for persuasion
-Floor jack and jack stands
I live in FL, but my rig came used from VA so I have a decent about of Jap rust on my suspension
Misc: dot 4, nitrile gloves, beer, locktite, etc: $50
Having my neighbors complain about the front end on jack stands for a week: priceless. I did not have a solid block of time and more important I wanted to take my time
Problems:
1) upper ball joint is a mofo to press out. I broke a Chepo 3 arm puller from harbor freight. This is a 2 person job if not going through the process of yanking the spindle (one to work the puller; one to hold the spindle from moving) I did remove the upper control arms to get more room to work
2) the outer tie rod locknut was RUSTED onto the outer tie rod. I had to clamp it in a large vice and pb blast the crap out of it b/c the new tie rods do NOT come with a new lock nut....you have to reuse the old one or order a new one with your Toyota parts)
3) torque for the 4 LBJ bolts. I've gotten a million different answers and was concerned with over/under torquing as a possible cause of failure. 4runner spec is 39lbs and I did mine at 59lbs (since that the taco spec and I'm using taco LBJ's) some guys are torquing > 100 lbs which i think may be too much , but what do I know? Remember to use blue locktite.
Otherwise, no severe injuries occurred which is always good
Links for ball joints
R&R Upper and Lower Ball Joints - TTORA Forum
Tacoma Suspension - Control Arms
Brakes:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ements-231mm-13wl-tundra-calipers-rotors.html
I know....no pics yet, but I pay homage to the links above as these are extremely useful and already have alot of pics.
So the runner feels a million times more solid in the front. Brakes are awesome and may be overkill, but why not?
Feel free to ask any questions
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