Technicial help...my clock keeps resetting time??

I say just leave the lights off when your car is off, and don't leave it on to auto off. Your clock will be back to its normal operation.
 
As a follow up - on my '08, I checked all fuses with the continuity setting on my multimeter. All checked out fine. I removed Fuse No. 17, which controls the clock, instrument cluster, and a few other things. The fuse had continuity, but it had suffered some heat damage. I replaced the fuse about a week ago, and the clock has not misbehaved since. It might be worth replacing your fuse anyway just to see if that helps.
 
UPDATE;So I called the hid company and the tech I talked with told me to separate my grounds to their own fastener. I did that using some factory threaded holes last night. So far today the clock has kept time without skipping a beat.
 
Got a pic of how your grounds are? Is it bare shiny metal you see, I use factory grounds, but I also took the time to wire brush with my drill to make them contact bare metal, never had a problem since, I just also tested my lights on and off and put it back on acc and clock stayed the same.
 
riceandpho said:
Got a pic of how your grounds are? Is it bare shiny metal you see, I use factory grounds, but I also took the time to wire brush with my drill to make them contact bare metal, never had a problem since, I just also tested my lights on and off and put it back on acc and clock stayed the same.
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I will try to take pictures of my grounds. The issue is not fixed. The clock held time overnight so I canceled my appointment with yota and then it started acting up again. I used factory locations for my grounds. I sanded down the paint to bare metal and then used the bolts that corresponded to the thread pitch of the welded on nuts. I will try parking it with my lights off to see if that is the issue... I will post again later with some pictures.
 
Got some pictures, hope this helps...

Here is a picture of the front of the runner. Do you guys see the h.i.d wiring? I hid it up under the core support and covered with convoluted tubing...
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Here is a view of the relays mounted behind the passenger head light and before the air intake port on the passenger side inner fender well...


overhead view of previous pictured relays and ballast

 
picture of the ground right after the passenger side air intake port on the passenger side inner fender well. The picture does not show it real well but I sanded down to bare metal where the metal eyelet contacts the body



Another shot of the passenger side where the wiring goes through the hole in the core support and routs to the other side of the runner...



Here is a picture on the drivers side of the runner next to the head lamp housing where the wires route through the core support and go back behind the head lamp housing. I covered the wiring with convoluted tubing and zip tied to the a/c tubes that go to the condenser. The wiring includes a fuse which I have checked and is great.



Here is my new battery pictured and the wires behind the head lamp housing. The ground I used on this side is down on the back side of the core support below the condenser hose.

 
Here is a picture of the ground behind the core support below the a/c line



Don't know if this impacts it but this is where the system ties into the power source?? The metal below the eyelet is not covered with the battery spray.



Let me know what you guys think
 
First off that's a fancy HID kit, the logo is EMBOSSED on the housing AND its BLACK?! WOAH! :O All the HID kits I see are the EBay Cracker Jack box ones with the blue cellophane still stuck to the ballasts that are barely zip-tied!

I'm still curious where they are getting their "signal" from, did the engineer explain that? Or is it just tapped into the positive/negative for the lamps and that's it? I mean we're trying to rule this out as a possible cause since it seems to be directly before the incident started.

How tight is that positive terminal/eyelet? Is it possible you got some battery protector between the layers of connectors? (By the way, that connection looks fine and perfectly good.)
 
I say just leave the lights off when your done driving, Also did you happen to flip the connectors around on the stock plug, light having the positive side power to trigger the relay harness instead of negative side. Try flipping the plug around, it's still snug enough and won't come off. I know I use the positive side of stock plug to feed positive trigger and ground to ground. If you think the plugs will come off, just repin the pins on the aftermarket harness, all it takes is some time and a small flat head.
 
BlackWorksInc said:
First off that's a fancy HID kit, the logo is EMBOSSED on the housing AND its BLACK?! WOAH! :O All the HID kits I see are the EBay Cracker Jack box ones with the blue cellophane still stuck to the ballasts that are barely zip-tied!

I'm still curious where they are getting their "signal" from, did the engineer explain that? Or is it just tapped into the positive/negative for the lamps and that's it? I mean we're trying to rule this out as a possible cause since it seems to be directly before the incident started.

How tight is that positive terminal/eyelet? Is it possible you got some battery protector between the layers of connectors? (By the way, that connection looks fine and perfectly good.)
Click to expand...

I will try to call them today and ask them. I will ask where they are getting their signal from. The terminal is tight so nothing there. I will take it apart and lightly sand it down just to be sure. On a side note just to confirm that it is related to the h.i.d. kit, I reinstalled the stock bulbs and unhooked the hid kit while still leaving it installed. I did this last night and so far my clock has held time with no issues.
 
Have had the stock bulbs installed for 48 hours and so far no clock issues and I have not replaced the fuse #17 so we know it is most likely not that. I have been having some dialogue with the hid company and asked them about the inputs via email. I will post up their reply.
 
Alright I'm new here just got a Gen 4 but I saw this and had to toss out an idea to look into. I work at a Toyota dealership and have seen this 2 times in my time so far on the Gen 4 I looked through the thread and didn't see if you had running board lights or not but the dome light bulb runs those as well. We have seen the wires from the running board lights rubbing through wire and it shorts out and causes that issue it's worth a shot to look at that.....If not disregard this reply hahaha
 
simple said:
Any update? I've been having this issue off and on for a few months. Even replaced my battery.
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Yes, update. I had learned to live with the weird clock thing since I have a clock on my phone. My 6 cylinder had the dreaded head gasket leak problem so I had the dealer do the head gaskets, valve stem seals, etc. When I got the vehicle back the clock was reset and has stayed accurate since then?? I am not sure what they did but I am thinking they must have reset a module that controlled the clock?? :guitar3: I have had it back for 2 months with no slip ups!
 
i started having this issue when i tried to put LED lights in the interior. The clock keeps resetting to 1:00 and now K have no dome or map lights.

:(

I dont want to mess around and lose my power locks or my radio entirely, so any advice how to proceed?
 
Last edited:
fixed it... and my dome lights.. just used the spare fuse...

Now

But they are the generic lights.... how can i install LEDs when the fuse will pop again?
 
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