brentlawson8
New member
Following
Tell me about re-gearing my 5th gen
- Thread starter dhatcher
- Start date
My thoughts are that is is not prudent to drive a lifted, 6000lb 4runner at 80-90mph period. Much less with a trailer. The aerodynamics alone are enough to destroy anything that looks like fuel economy. not ot mention emergency maneuvers or panic braking. But I do it from time to time anyway.
Once we add the trailer (3000ish loaded) we will NOT be running 85-90 anywhere. Here in TX there are many sections of Highway where 75 is a suggested starting point. I will just sit in the far right lane running between 60 and 75, and just follow all the F250 diesels pulling 40 fooy 5th wheel campers...
If we need to get somewhere in a hurry, we leave that to my wife's Benz E350 running Carbon Ceramic brakes and Michelin Pilot sports.
Are you saying “4s” because in Sport it doesn’t shift up to 5th?
mrblah
Senior Member
yup.
4S will approximate 5th gear with the new gears.
So if you are already driving in 4s like many of us, then you will benefit from a regear.
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mrblah
Senior Member
anything over 80 mph, and my 4runner wants to vibrate itself to death...it can do it..it just doesnt like to.
FWIW - I live in DFW and my heavily built T4R is my daily driver. I use the hell of it off road when I can but mostly lives in the city where here highway travel is easily 90 MPH. I upgraded to the Magnuson SC with 4:56 gears. I could not possibly be happier. Pulls hard and quickly for a 4Runner. Feels exactly how I always wished it would. Don’t get me wrong. It’s still a pig. Just a quicker pig. Off-road it’s where it really shines. That’s where you’ll really appreciate the throttle peace travel on a stock vehicle. It is so easy to modulate power delivery. I’m running the largest tires I ever will at 285/75s on stock pro wheels. Lifted a little with slight wheel spacers. I’d say a swap to 4:56 is mandatory even without any other mods. Let’s be honest thatvour mpg stinks bone stock. I’m enjoying poor mileage day one. And not worse today. Sorry I don’t track the actual. But I wouldn’t change a thing. Joy of ownership is off the charts
Thanks for that info. I do think that 4.56 seems like it would be a good medium, but 4.88 would be optimal if its tolerable. I don't regularly drive that fast, only on camping trips outside of town which can vary from 1-8 hrs cruising at 80-85. Normal daily commute for me is 50-60mph for 40 minutes each way. i guess the realistic fact is that going up into the mountains it spends most of its time in 4th gear anyway trying to climb with the lack of power.
Optimally I think that regearing here at altitude would be better than a supercharger which is why I am considering it. Regearing would optimize the current power while supercharger would add power. At altitude the gains from the supercharger would diminish though because the pulley is a fixed size and can't just compensate by spooling faster like a turbo to hit a certain PSI. When I brought my supercharged G35 moving to Colorado from sea level, I went from dynoing 450whp to 380whp, but at least I had the option of changing pulleys to compensate. The 4runner unfortunately does not have any pulley upgrade options for the supercharger unfortunately. At least a regear is a regear, not something that would variably lose power. I am also guessing MPG loss between supercharger vs regear is similar. I am not trying to gain fuel efficiency for savings, but to try and maintain a decent mile range to go offroad if not close to gas stations etc.
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mrblah
Senior Member
So I just got back my vehicle with 4.88 on 285/70/17 an hour ago and i've been driving around surface streets and highways to do the break-in procedure. Mix freeway, and surface streets, and didn't go over 60 mph.
Initial impressions are:
1. No gear hunting at all. It will hold gear going up hill, no need to change your throttle position (right foot), and maintain your speed. On steep declines, the vehicle will hold speed and engine brake. I don't notice my transmission shifting anymore. IT seems like the vehicle likes to cruise in 5th, which makes sense, but this is also why it kinda sucks on the freeway (more on that later).
2. keeps my transmission temps below 200. It stayed between 160 to 190. This was the real reason why i got the regearing to take the stress off the transmission. My vehicle is fully armored and a heavy turtle.
3. A little bit of gear whine at deceleration but it got better the more i drove it.
4. day 2: 70mph got me 2600ish RPM. If you drive below 70 mph, vehicle drives and behaves normally. Going over 70mph, engine and drivetrain starts to feel as if it ran out of gearing and starts to feel a bit high strung I'm sure it will be fine, but it is definitely something i gotta get use to. I typically drive at or below 70 mph, so it doesn't bother me at all. However, if you like to drive faster than that.. I would probably consider 4.56. This is the biggest con of 4.88's and 33's.
5. Alot more torque of the line. I can take foot off brakes and it will creep at stop lights and inclines. This should be pretty awesome while offroading. Less brake/accelerator pedal modulation while on tricky obstacles, while in 4 low.
6. mpg didn't get better. It actually got worse, but thats because i've been mixing my driving habits up due to break in process. I doubt its going to get better after the break in period.
Verdict:
4.56 if you are sticking to 33's, commute alot on the freeway, like to cruise above 70. Doesn't matter on how heavy you are.
4.88 if you are going above 33's, don't care about cruising above 70, don't commute alot on the freeway. You go offroading alot, where you want engine braking and to be able to crawl a little.
While i didn't choose to listen to the majority of the forum members, their advice was pretty spot on...lol.
Now i need some 35's.
Initial impressions are:
1. No gear hunting at all. It will hold gear going up hill, no need to change your throttle position (right foot), and maintain your speed. On steep declines, the vehicle will hold speed and engine brake. I don't notice my transmission shifting anymore. IT seems like the vehicle likes to cruise in 5th, which makes sense, but this is also why it kinda sucks on the freeway (more on that later).
2. keeps my transmission temps below 200. It stayed between 160 to 190. This was the real reason why i got the regearing to take the stress off the transmission. My vehicle is fully armored and a heavy turtle.
3. A little bit of gear whine at deceleration but it got better the more i drove it.
4. day 2: 70mph got me 2600ish RPM. If you drive below 70 mph, vehicle drives and behaves normally. Going over 70mph, engine and drivetrain starts to feel as if it ran out of gearing and starts to feel a bit high strung I'm sure it will be fine, but it is definitely something i gotta get use to. I typically drive at or below 70 mph, so it doesn't bother me at all. However, if you like to drive faster than that.. I would probably consider 4.56. This is the biggest con of 4.88's and 33's.
5. Alot more torque of the line. I can take foot off brakes and it will creep at stop lights and inclines. This should be pretty awesome while offroading. Less brake/accelerator pedal modulation while on tricky obstacles, while in 4 low.
6. mpg didn't get better. It actually got worse, but thats because i've been mixing my driving habits up due to break in process. I doubt its going to get better after the break in period.
Verdict:
4.56 if you are sticking to 33's, commute alot on the freeway, like to cruise above 70. Doesn't matter on how heavy you are.
4.88 if you are going above 33's, don't care about cruising above 70, don't commute alot on the freeway. You go offroading alot, where you want engine braking and to be able to crawl a little.
While i didn't choose to listen to the majority of the forum members, their advice was pretty spot on...lol.
Now i need some 35's.
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Jetboy
New member
Nothing yet. It's ugly. I kinda knew that already. But no pricing and mpg info? Kinda weak release from Toyota. Those are probably the two most important details. How can Toyota not know?
I'm questioning if maybe Toyota really has lost its way... Honestly - Mike Sweers needs to go if he's really responsible for the new tundra. But I'm not sure how much control he has. What we know is a disappointment to me. It's the truck Toyota should have built around 2015. The 2022 should be offered as a PHEV, EV, and ICE from day 1. A mild hybrid isn't competitive. I don't really understand the nimh battery choice. It lacks basically all the great features of the f150 powerboost that lets you use the generator and battery system. Overall I'd say it's a pretty weak effort from the engineer and design team. If this truck is expected to compete for another 15 years, don't think there will be a fourth generation tundra. It's not good enough.
[MENTION=117996]dhatcher[/MENTION]. I have a 2016 4Runner also and in the Bay Area. Did you end up regearing with 4.56 and find a shop in the Bay Area to do the work you can recommend?
I did regear to 4.56’s. I did not have a shop in the Bay Area do the work. I found a guy who had a shop up near the Rubicon trail in Georgetown that did the work. Unfortunately, he closed down his shop to concentrate full time on 4wd instruction and volunteer fire fighting.
I didn’t have any issues with any of the traction control systems or lockers. They all work fine just as they did with stock gears. My biggest problem to date is the KDSS knock that continues from the 3” lift. Doesn’t really seem to affect anything. Just annoying
Had the 4.56's on for about 1500 miles now. With bumpers, rack, winch, sliders and 285's it feels just about right. I definitely don't feel that it is over geared but I agree with some of the others in this thread and drive very conservatively due to the weight, usually between 60 and 65. On the interstate I will sometimes do between 65 and 70 but don't like it. Not because of the gearing or engine power, but because of the amount of weight I'm carrying down the road.
4.56's are also great for goatverlanding, where you take your goats camping with you.
20220103-165629 — ImgBB
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If that includes parts/new bearings etc that sounds about right.
will_mamba
New member
I did regear to 4.56’s. I did not have a shop in the Bay Area do the work. I found a guy who had a shop up near the Rubicon trail in Georgetown that did the work. Unfortunately, he closed down his shop to concentrate full time on 4wd instruction and volunteer fire fighting.
I didn’t have any issues with any of the traction control systems or lockers. They all work fine just as they did with stock gears. My biggest problem to date is the KDSS knock that continues from the 3” lift. Doesn’t really seem to affect anything. Just annoying
you should definitely look into purchasing KDSS front sway bar clamps and end adapters from @dr_kdss (on IG). i got those installed recently and it's day and night difference.
mrblah
Senior Member
this is one of those few mods that I will gladly pay someone else to do as long as they do it right and backed by a warrantee.
Also, great time to throw in a front locker but add another 1k to your bill.
comtn4x4
Senior Member
I 100% agree with you on this one. A warranty is invaluable in this circumstance. I also highly recommend using ECGS for the prebuilt clamshell. There's no one that assembles more Toyota diffs than they do.
