The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[Fishwerks]

I bought BKR7EKC-N

OEM Porsche plugs that are the same design as the OEM 5VZ twin ground electrode and have the exact same specs except heat range 7.

NGK part# 2095.

Truck now start like new and runs smooth.

I do believe the single ground electrode is wrong for the 5VZ for two reasons:

1) The waste spark ignition will shorten the life (the ground electrode on the denso is not iridium or platinum)

2) The single ground could shroud the spark, unlike the stock design which has the spark directly exposed at the end - this may alter the combustion process and result in undesirable results...

Are you still running these plugs? It's time that I change mine and I'm trying to decide what to buy. Although I have had no issues with the Denso IK22s.

Anyone else running a different plug than the IK22s?

 

[lhsoulrebel]

My question is if you guys were given for free either kit (meth or 7th) which would you pick?

I guess it depends... If you want to squeeze every once of power out of the sc, and want to spend time tuning... Then the 7th...

If you want to know you're running your sc safely, but don't want to bother with tuning, the meth kit... Also I hate dealing with wiring harnesses... So meth was an easy/ cheaper decision for me. Anyway, that's my opinion... To each their own.

 

[MTD]

I guess it depends... If you want to squeeze every once of power out of the sc, and want to spend time tuning... Then the 7th...

If you want to know you're running your sc safely, but don't want to bother with tuning, the meth kit... Also I hate dealing with wiring harnesses... So meth was an easy/ cheaper decision for me. Anyway, that's my opinion... To each their own.

I wouldn't take the 7th either way, you could run the meth just fine until you wanted to tune it with a good tuner like the AEM. Not being able to live tune (just found out that little nugget of info) put the last few nails in the coffin of the URD stuff for me. Also I can pretty much guarantee you that a meth/AEM truck will make more power than a 7th setup.

That being said I personally wouldn't run the meth kit without proper tuning although some do just fine.

 

[MTD]

My question is if you guys were given for free either kit (meth or 7th) which would you pick?

Meth kit every day and 2x on Sunday. Eventually you can pair it with a much better tuner than the URD and tune it to make more power.

 

[oakraider09]

Anyone know the best place to order the knock sensors? I heard rockauto somewhere and found them there for $112 but I'm not sure if those are quality sensors my dealership wants 250 each which is ridiculous where did u guys buy yours?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Yes the throttle body has to come off. Go to the op of this thread and snag the install instructions and do them in reverse.

Good time to change out the throttle body gasket to the TRD "O" shaped gasket instead of the stock "D" gasket if one is in there!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Anyone know the best place to order the knock sensors? I heard rockauto somewhere and found them there for $112 but I'm not sure if those are quality sensors my dealership wants 250 each which is ridiculous where did u guys buy yours?

Try Camelback Toyota or Toyota of Dallas, they tend to be much cheaper than your average dealer. They both have online part stores.

Aftermarket sensors have a history of acting up.

 

[SnowLizard]

SO I'm been thinking... reading, and tired of searching...

if Was to go SC, I'd need a few things, namely the SC to start with, and the begining of this thread gives GREAT info on the other parts... but...

Finding a SC??? I know they stopped production, so forget try'n to get new. I can scower the interweb and hope i catch something... or I can hope for a local to sell a running SC'd 3.4 toyota for less than 3k...

What price ranges am I looking at for just the 'basic' SC (stock pulley size, so to avoid added fuel mods) I understand premium gas, but with stock pulley do I need cooler spark plugs?

thanks in advance...

 

[gamefreakgc]

Reference previous photos.
Wiring the kit was straight forward, and the instructions do a fine job of explaining everything adequately. Basically, the pump's power connects to the battery (I added a hot battery bus/ constant power). The negative is connected to the controller. The controller itself has a constant power supply, ignition source, ground, signal (float switch), pump ground control, and boost line. I drilled an extra hole and grommet through the fire wall for the additional wiring. I tee'd the boost line off of the boost gauge supply line, so I wouldn't have to run a boost line through the fire wall again.

Results, opinion, and conclusion:

I added the meth kit as I was convinced I had knock after installing a smaller pulley (pulley boys 2.3") Although the noise proved to be just an annoying rattle, I have the benefit of now knowing that my engine has a level of protection against knock, and a bit more power. I've done a "ghetto tune" of basically watching my AFR's on the engine link app:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...rans-fluid-temp-other-things-your-iphone.html

I then adjusted the controller to spray when I needed it. The only times I seem to be lean are when I'm high boost low RPM high gear... highway partial throttle. So I have the controller progressively spray starting at higher boost levels. (I'm making a solid 10psi)

Limitations:
With this set up, you can't spray unless you are in boost... Which means, if you have knock outside of boost, this will not help you.
You also can't adjust your computer, or fine tune, as this does't have an ecu piggy back. You could add an additional ecu piggy back and still be cheaper than URD's kit.
Also, you need to have water/meth mix at your disposal... (Washer fluid, water, straight meth all work... You just have to have it with you on long trips).
Benefits:
Running higher boost with knock protection
I could theoretically run lower octane gas
more power, more boost!

Let me know if you guys have questions... all in all DO makes a great kit, and its pretty easy to install.

Awesome information, don't know how I missed this before. I've heard that the Devil's Own progressive controller is more like an on/off switch than other brands, have you seen anything like that? Without a true AFR gauge though, it might be hard to tell.

I want to add meth injection eventually... need my money tree to grow another branch first though.

 

[lhsoulrebel]

Awesome information, don't know how I missed this before. I've heard that the Devil's Own progressive controller is more like an on/off switch than other brands, have you seen anything like that? Without a true AFR gauge though, it might be hard to tell.

I want to add meth injection eventually... need my money tree to grow another branch first though.

Thanks! I'm really impressed with the kit, easy to use quality components. As for the controller, it is progressive. The "progressiveness" if you will, depends on where in the boost range you have it turn on, and at what point you have it max spray... I think it does a pretty good job from the indications I get, but maybe other controller ramp up better? I'm happy with it though. As for afr's... If I really wanted to tune it with something like @MTD recommends I'd get a proper gauge. The app for me was good enough as I was able to "ghetto tune" pretty well... I've got it so I'm 11.3 ish when open throttle, and mostly solved the lean out spots (low rpm , high gear, high boost... Aka partial throttle highway driving ). Hope that answers your q's

 

[masphx]

Good Football day everyone. So I mounted afr gauge but unsure how I should route the wire to the sensor. Anyone have any recommendations for the best route? Also, not to electical savvy. I know I need to connect the white to the headlight wire, red to a power source (white one is best to use?) and the black to a ground (is it best to go right to the battery?).

Here is how it and the boost gauge are mounted..

 

[MTD]

Good Football day everyone. So I mounted afr gauge but unsure how I should route the wire to the sensor. Anyone have any recommendations for the best route? Also, not to electical savvy. I know I need to connect the white to the headlight wire, red to a power source (white one is best to use?) and the black to a ground (is it best to go right to the battery?).

Here is how it and the boost gauge are mounted..

You need a pillar gauge it looks like lol. I have one I designed and can print if you are interested.

 

[masphx]

Did not want one of those. The pic makes it look worse then it really is.

 

[MTD]

Did not want one of those. The pic makes it look worse then it really is.

Oh yeah lol that pic is shit. I like it though the gauges are in the way of the dash though which sucks more than being on the pillar

 

[oakraider09]

So I am in the process of replacing my knock sensor and harness the code came back as bank one so I'm replacing Bank One sensor and harness I'm just curious if someone can shed some light on why the sensor I pulled off has a blue ring around it and the one I bought from the dealership is a black as well as the other sensor is also black? Here's a pic see you know what I'm talking about

 

[tx_shooter]

The ring is just the gasket.


I rebuilt my supercharger this weekend and found that my right side bearing does not push out the back.

 

[oakraider09]

The ring is just the gasket.

Ok I didn't know if I had the wrong part

 

[oakraider09]

Ok I didn't know if I had the wrong part

The ring is actually not a gasket it's just a blue painted ring on a metal surface that doesn't seal anything this is the side where the harness clips in

 

[tx_shooter]

Had some weird readings on my boost gauge yesterday so I checked out my vacuum hoses when I got home. I found a hole in my boost gauge line. So the question is does anyone know where to pick up the parts to repair this or if there is a repair/replace "kit"? I searched TRD of Dallas, Amazon, and a few other places with no luck.

 

[masphx]

Just curious, how much extra boost can one get from porting a 1st gen supercharger? I guess you cannot port a second gen right?