The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[4Running Daily]

It won't be worth it for you since you don't have a A/F sensor...haha They are only came out on 99+ and are part of the Cali emissions system until they adopted the 50 state 2 cat version in 01.

I wouldn't recommend a 2.2 pulley without any supporting fuel mods and being at sea level. Some guys at high altitude (Colorado) can get away with a smaller pulley but you will run too lean and ping way too much.

I feel like I'm fine with just my SC at sea level and haven't pinged at all. I wish I had the 7th but I'm fine for now.

Did you find one?

Ha, ya, that's why I like this thread haha, saving me cash.

I'm pretty sure I'm just going to buy new from Toyota Dallas.

 

[SCRunner12]

Ha, ya, that's why I like this thread haha, saving me cash.

I'm pretty sure I'm just going to buy new from Toyota Dallas.

Damn son you slanging on the golf course on the side? Haha

Yeah supercharger are pretty confusing and I've only looked into the tip of the iceberg. One of these when I have some free time I'm going to update this thread. Works been killing me lately and I have barely any free time at night.

 

[Rockdawg84]

so with URD 7th injector and a 2.2 pulley I have still been running rich as noted by the Soot on my tailpipe. Runs good and strong and never pings pulls 9 psi all day but I don't have a wide band yet and so I can't tune my 7th injector system. The only way to deal with this problem of running rich it so get more air. LOL. So tonight I installed my new pulleyboys 2.0 pulley. Took about 5 minutes to do but the results will keep me smiling for a lot longer than that. Now pulling a solid 12+ and did a couple of hill pulls at low RPM in a high gear and WOT and could not get it to ping even a little, it just pulls. So fun:whoo::whoo:

 

[I'mStock]

12lbs? **** me.

 

[RussToy]

What's a "Per Set AFR Calibrator II"?? Is this something you run with the 7th injector?? Or does this replace the 7th injector?? I don't remember seeing it on URD's web site?!?

Thanks for the info!!

 

[Jon]

Damn this thread!

Now that I've got the new stage 3 clutch, guess it's time to do the 7th injector kit and a dyno tune. FML Might do the headers at the same time.

Question bout headers: I've got a 3 bolt flange on the up-pipe and all the headers I'm finding have a two bolt flange. Do they have ones for 3-bolt flange or should I just get them to send a matching 2 bolt and weld that on to my up-pipe?

 

[Illestreker]

Got my supercharger installed. Couple questions, How would one know if they have any pinging or knocking? "hear" it, "feel" it? I dont think I do just curious what to look out for just in case. And, now that I have my supercharger what are the must haves for gauges? which one or two is the most important and why... Anyone ever found a way to have gauges displayed on a double din headunit rather than an actual gauge?

 

[tee-bone]

Got my supercharger installed. Couple questions, How would one know if they have any pinging or knocking? "hear" it, "feel" it? I dont think I do just curious what to look out for just in case. And, now that I have my supercharger what are the must haves for gauges? which one or two is the most important and why... Anyone ever found a way to have gauges displayed on a double din headunit rather than an actual gauge?

1.) You can hear ping. Sounds like someone is hitting a piston with a ball peen hammer.
2.) As I understand it, the two key gauges are AFR (Air to Fuel ratio) which tells you how rich or lean you are running, and a boost gauge, which tells you why you spent a couple grand buying and installing a supercharger.

 

[CdaleR4000si]

Any chance that someone knows of anyone that can fab up a bracket for the throttle and kickdown cables, for a '99? That is just about the last of what I need for my installation. Unfortunately I don't have the means to fab one myself.

Thanks!

 

[Dawgz]

Great info in this thread.

I recently put together much of the items needed to install the SC.


Bolts

10mm X 1.25 X 80mm bolt for location B of static tensioner.
M10-1.25 x 80mm DIN 960 Class 8.8 Plain Cap Screw | Fastenal


10mm X 1.25 X 100mm bolt for location A of static tensioner
Dorman 876-592 M10-1.25 x 100mm DIN 'Class 8.8' Hex Head Cap Screw
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-876-59...396130301&sr=1-15&keywords=M10+X+1.25+X+100mm
OR
M10-1.25 x 100mm DIN 960 Class 8.8 Plain Cap Screw | Fastenal

1 Bolt, 8 X 1.25 X 35mm Flange Head, Used to Secure factory support bracket thru spacer to S/C Manifold
M8-1.25 x 35mm DIN 6921 Class 10.9 Plain Flange Bolt | Fastenal
OR
Bolt MC Hardware Low Profile Dimpled 10mm Hex Head Flange Bolts M8 x 1.25 x 35 024-20835
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006P5D6SW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3TGC5XRRCX4P2


4 Socket Head Cap Screws, 8 x 1.25 x 65mm Attaches Throttle Body to TRD S/C Manifold
M8-1.25 x 65mm CL 12.9 DIN 912 Black Oxide Socket Head Cap Screw | Fastenal
OR

Marafast AENM08065125P M8-1.25 x 65mm Cl.12.9 DIN 912 Socket Head Cap Screw, Furnace Black Finish (Pack of 5)
Amazon.com: Marafast AENM08065125P M8-1.25 x 65mm Cl.12.9 DIN 912 Socket Head Cap Screw, Furnace Black Finish (Pack of 5): Industrial & Scientific


Hoses

1 3/8” Vacuum Plug Intake Silencer Plug
Spectre Performance 4254 Vacuum Cap Assortment
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPWSCC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

1 Vacuum Hose – ½” X 34” long Connects Air Tube to Cam cover
HPS 12.7mm High Temp Silicone Vacuum Hose Red x 5 Feet
Amazon.com: HPS 12.7mm High Temp Silicone Vacuum Hose Red x 5 Feet: Automotive

1 Vacuum Hose - 3mm x 9" long Connects Vacuum Throttle Opener to Intake Manifold
1 Vacuum Hose - 3mm x 5" long Connects Vacuum Throttle Opener to Intake Manifold
HPS 3mm High Temp Silicone Vacuum Hose Red x 5 Feet (1.5mm wall thickness)
Amazon.com: HPS 3mm High Temp Silicone Vacuum Hose Red x 5 Feet (1.5mm wall thickness): Automotive



Misc
DENSO Iridium Spark Plugs IK20 (PTR24-35040) (4 for $36.80)
DENSO Iridium Spark Plugs IK20 PTR24-35040

1 Valve, IAC Check, Installed near IAC Valve
TRD Replacement Check Valve - One Way (3.4 V6 S/C) (PTR26-35042) ($6.50)
TRD Replacement Check Valve - One Way (3.4 V6 S/C) PTR26-35042

TRD Oil Change Kit 3.4L V6 supercharger (Grey) ($47.15)
GRAY SC OIL FILL KIT PTR29-35044

TRD Supercharger Belt - V6 3.4L (PTR30-35040) ($10.35)
TRD Supercharger Belt - V6 3.4L PTR30-35040




Hope this helps someone someday.

 

[Dawgz]

Any chance that someone knows of anyone that can fab up a bracket for the throttle and kickdown cables, for a '99? That is just about the last of what I need for my installation. Unfortunately I don't have the means to fab one myself.

Thanks!

This kit has that bracket your looking for, not sure if they will sell it separately, couldnt hurt to call them and ask.

Supercharger Service Parts 3.4L Install Kit PTR29-60020

 

[Dawgz]

On another note, does anyone have the ecu/ecm diagram for the 97 4runner to install the safc2 or any other piggy back?

 

[adam99sr5]

Thanks so much to everyone in this thread you have saved a lot of people alot of time. One thing im still not clear on though. How do you know your engine is healthy enough to handle the s/c? Ive read compression test , but what are the key things I need to comb over before I install? Besides timing belt and h2o pump. I understand the need for new plugs and thermostat Thanks just trying to get a checklist going of some maintenance that needs to/should be done first.

 

[adam99sr5]

^^^^bump^^^^

 

[SCRunner12]

Thanks so much to everyone in this thread you have saved a lot of people alot of time. One thing im still not clear on though. How do you know your engine is healthy enough to handle the s/c? Ive read compression test , but what are the key things I need to comb over before I install? Besides timing belt and h2o pump. I understand the need for new plugs and thermostat Thanks just trying to get a checklist going of some maintenance that needs to/should be done first.

As long as your truck is running good now and a compression test is positive, then you should be good to go. How may miles do you have? I had 140k at the time of my sc and didn't do anything, but slap it on and colder plugs. Some items to get done that would be advisable is valve cover gaskets if you need them since it's all apart. Also clean your MAF, throttle body and air filter before to make sure everything is good to go.

 

[adam99sr5]

As long as your truck is running good now and a compression test is positive, then you should be good to go. How may miles do you have? I had 140k at the time of my sc and didn't do anything, but slap it on and colder plugs. Some items to get done that would be advisable is valve cover gaskets if you need them since it's all apart. Also clean your MAF, throttle body and air filter before to make sure everything is good to go.

Thanks for the info. Pretty much what I figured. My truck runs dam good. I do need to change my value cover gaskets The thing im most worried about is the transmission. It kinda shifts hard from 2nd to third. But it usually goes away after its warmed up. As my names states is 99 sr5 auto. With ruffly 130k on the ticker. What would be considered good/great compression? Also could I send you a picture of the hardware for my charger so you could help figure out what im missing?

 

[Moves2Music]

Great info in this thread. Thank you to everyone who contributed.

I just bought another 3rd gen 4runner. This one is a 99 and is equipped with the gray trd supercharger. This is my first sc'd t4r, but my 3rd 3rd gen. The previous owner has had it since 06 and when he bought it, the charger was already on it. This was about 90k ago. Before I bought it, he said he had recently rebuilt the nose with a nose drive kit from eBay. I can see that it's been done due to the parts receipts and the gasket maker from the nose connector.
At idle, there is some noise coming from what seems to be the nose. Sounds similar to an idler pulley if one needed to be replaced. From my understanding of the research I have gathered from here and a couple other Toyota boards, the sc shouldn't make any noise at idle. Can someone confirm this?
I also researched the kit from eBay and it looks like the coupler provided in the kit is solid. From what I can gather, the actual replacement coupler should have a spring in it as opposed to being one solid piece. Would the generic coupler be the cause of this noise I hear? And would a torsion coupler directly from Eaton fix this issue or is my OCD becoming a problem?!

*Yes, I understand that without an actual video of said noise, it is hard to tell, but I would like some gurus to give me their opinions based on what I described.

 

[Fishwerks]

Great info in this thread. Thank you to everyone who contributed.

I just bought another 3rd gen 4runner. This one is a 99 and is equipped with the gray trd supercharger. This is my first sc'd t4r, but my 3rd 3rd gen. The previous owner has had it since 06 and when he bought it, the charger was already on it. This was about 90k ago. Before I bought it, he said he had recently rebuilt the nose with a nose drive kit from eBay. I can see that it's been done due to the parts receipts and the gasket maker from the nose connector.
At idle, there is some noise coming from what seems to be the nose. Sounds similar to an idler pulley if one needed to be replaced. From my understanding of the research I have gathered from here and a couple other Toyota boards, the sc shouldn't make any noise at idle. Can someone confirm this?
I also researched the kit from eBay and it looks like the coupler provided in the kit is solid. From what I can gather, the actual replacement coupler should have a spring in it as opposed to being one solid piece. Would the generic coupler be the cause of this noise I hear? And would a torsion coupler directly from Eaton fix this issue or is my OCD becoming a problem?!

*Yes, I understand that without an actual video of said noise, it is hard to tell, but I would like some gurus to give me their opinions based on what I described.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/164940-whats-healthy-sc-sound-like-idle.html

If it is the noise I'm thinking of, it is probably normal and the supercharger will have a distinct rattle-like sound at idle. Some say it's a worn out coupler or dynamic tensioner in that thread I linked. Not sure that's true as my nose cone, drive adapter, and dynamic tensioner were new when I installed the supercharger and I can definitely hear it at idle with the radio off.


Also, these superchargers use the solid coupler, not the one with the spring (Eaton Nose Cone Service Kit [MAG-NS-SV-KIT] - $55.00 : SuperchargersOnline, Worlds largest Supercharger Resource. Get Serious About Power)

 

[SCRunner12]

Thanks for the info. Pretty much what I figured. My truck runs dam good. I do need to change my value cover gaskets The thing im most worried about is the transmission. It kinda shifts hard from 2nd to third. But it usually goes away after its warmed up. As my names states is 99 sr5 auto. With ruffly 130k on the ticker. What would be considered good/great compression? Also could I send you a picture of the hardware for my charger so you could help figure out what im missing?

Sorry I spaced on your responding to your post. I believe healthy compression numbers for the 3.4 are around 180-200 for our motors. New is 218 PSI and the min is around 145. I don't think you need to get a compression test with 130k, just slap it on.

Post a picture in this thread or you can PM me and I can see what you need.

Great info in this thread. Thank you to everyone who contributed.

I just bought another 3rd gen 4runner. This one is a 99 and is equipped with the gray trd supercharger. This is my first sc'd t4r, but my 3rd 3rd gen. The previous owner has had it since 06 and when he bought it, the charger was already on it. This was about 90k ago. Before I bought it, he said he had recently rebuilt the nose with a nose drive kit from eBay. I can see that it's been done due to the parts receipts and the gasket maker from the nose connector.
At idle, there is some noise coming from what seems to be the nose. Sounds similar to an idler pulley if one needed to be replaced. From my understanding of the research I have gathered from here and a couple other Toyota boards, the sc shouldn't make any noise at idle. Can someone confirm this?
I also researched the kit from eBay and it looks like the coupler provided in the kit is solid. From what I can gather, the actual replacement coupler should have a spring in it as opposed to being one solid piece. Would the generic coupler be the cause of this noise I hear? And would a torsion coupler directly from Eaton fix this issue or is my OCD becoming a problem?!

*Yes, I understand that without an actual video of said noise, it is hard to tell, but I would like some gurus to give me their opinions based on what I described.

As FR4R said, the couplers don't have a spring in it. I have noticed some of those ebay kits have a flat faced coupler, which I'm sure is ok, but our stock couplers have 3 protrusions on each side that go into the gear. That might be causing a bit of extra play in the coupler and some extra noise. You can get a replacement coupler from rollingperfomance.com for $30, which isn't horrible (Rolling Performance)

Also noise at idle is completely fine. Some of the sc's are pretty quiet, but others make noise even when they are healthy. The 1st gen (grey) I believe are a bit more noisy than the the black sc's. Mine needs to be serviced and it is making a bit more noise than normal, especially at 750 RPM.

 

[Moves2Music]

I really appreciate the feedback guys. I can't remember where I saw and read that the coupler is not solid, but I wish I could find it. It shows a solid coupler next to a torsion coupler. Perhaps I just read it wrong.
Superchargers online have both kits. One with a solid coupler and one with a torsion coupler. hmm..wish I could find what I read about it.
This is good news to me though. I am relieved. I still don't know what standard noise versus more noise than usual is though. haha