The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

If I decide to send it off who is the best place to put my faith and money into?
Monguson(SP) the people who built it to begin with

I haven't decided if I'm just going to install with new thermostat and plugs or do the 7th kit, decision, decision oh well these are good problems to have.


Well I know mauguson seems like a good choice since they did make the blower, but if you send it to them it can get expensive fast and I am not sure what they can do as far as recoating and other performance goodies.

As far as rotor pack bearings go anyhow you, yourself, or any shop for that matter, that doesn't specialize in supercharger rebuilds cannot do them correctly.



When mine needs to be done I am going to send it to Jon Bond Performance. They have a stellar reputation and can do a FULL service on the supercharger and upgrade it a little in the process lol.

https://jonbondperformance.com/inde...ducts_id=416&zenid=ptsorcurnu3fjqdfnsqtr4mrk7
 
If I decide to send it off who is the best place to put my faith and money into?
Monguson(SP) the people who built it to begin with

I haven't decided if I'm just going to install with new thermostat and plugs or do the 7th kit, decision, decision oh well these are good problems to have.

Congrats man!

I will highly highly recommend Embree Machine for the rebuild. They were affordable, approachable, and damn nice people. They provide instruction on how to package the S/C for shipping. I couldn't even get a tech at Magnuson on the phone - Embree called me with status updates and picture of the rebuild.
The High Speed Lab, Roots-type Supercharger Rebuild Services for All Eaton Superchargers

If you are unsure of the condition of the S/C, there is slop, or if the rotor pack touches or binds at all it is certainly worth a rebuild since all debris will end up in a cylinder.
 
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Thank you guys for the machine shops you have brought to my attention. I am leaning more towards the embree mainly because geohill has first hand experience with them. Jon bond does seem like an excellent shop and am impressed with their website and YouTube tutorials they certainly seem like an excellent shop as well, but first hand knowledge and recommendation just might win me over.

I'm going to first take the nosecone off this weekend and see what she looks like inside, then I will decide if I want to send it off. I know for sure I want to drill and tap a filler port on the cone so I might do that before I send it off or see if they will do it for me.
 
Thank you guys for the machine shops you have brought to my attention. I am leaning more towards the embree mainly because geohill has first hand experience with them. Jon bond does seem like an excellent shop and am impressed with their website and YouTube tutorials they certainly seem like an excellent shop as well, but first hand knowledge and recommendation just might win me over.

I'm going to first take the nosecone off this weekend and see what she looks like inside, then I will decide if I want to send it off. I know for sure I want to drill and tap a filler port on the cone so I might do that before I send it off or see if they will do it for me.

I would flip it over and inspect that rotor pack with a fine tooth comb - or maybe even pull the whole pack to see how the rear needle bearings are doing. Look close for anything that looks like contact. Embree also offers teflon/epoxy rotor coating (they send it out for this service). Well worth the money and extra boost IMO.

I've put 45k on mine since the rebuild with absolutely no problems.
 
Thanks man

I was suprised when they called and said I was first to respond. I thought for sure you or someone else would have jumped on it.

its amazing what loosing your job will do to your spending habits... believe me, it was painful to see that add and not act on it.
 
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So I've been holding back...

When I bought the SC it would not spin, the seller was like "that's strange I never tried spinning it after I took it off" they also wrote up a bill of sale that stated "AS IS". So, as you can understand I was starting to get a little worried about the SC how many miles and its overall condition. We finally settled on 400 they were asking 500 but with it not spinning I told them I was taking all the risk, a line I learned from "pawn stars" thanks Rick!
To add to my concerns I hit an owl on the way home!

Who the HELL hits an OWl!?!?

70mph and he tagged my front grill/hood then window ( I have bad luck driving night in the Oregon coast range. I've murdered 3 deer while driving and passanger on the 4th. Needless to say I was EYES peeled the whole way. But not matter how careful I was I just could do nothing about the OWL he swooped down and as soon as my lights showed him I hit him. I stopped and walked back about the 100 yards where I found a safe spot to pull over and came up on a dead OWl so thank goodness I didn't have to shoot him but was prepared
( one of the maain reason I carry a gun, considering my luck) moved him to the side of the road down an embankment and that was that.

So this whole incident added to my concern I just bought a crap SC the omen was cast.

I finally got the nose cone off and what did I find in the roots?
CAT FOOD!
Freaking 20 or so pieces in the intake and crushed in the roots of the SC. That caused the darn thing to not spin, cleaned it all up and.... image.jpg
 

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That's what I'm thinking, bad news is I have crumbs everywhere so I'm going to try and blow it all out but might just take it to a shop and have them clean it right. I don't think it would cause much of a problem, but I'd rather not take any chances
 
Thats great info. We used to run something similar in our VW sand cars and I don't know why I never thought of it on my Runner. Definitely gonna add one of these. Thank you. This is the first I've heard anyone mention it in all the talk about SC'd 3.4.

Yea its been brought up between me and my friends but never got around to it. I've always seen my PCV hose a bit wet since the SC but figured it couldn't be that bad...

till I pulled her apart and the heads were lined with black oil deposits..
cleaned it up as much as I could and ran some seafoam..

let me know what brand/where you plan to get yours..
although I want to go ahead and go with a ebay $20 version, im a bit hesitant.. but damn there are catch cans going for like $150-$300!!

I think I might go ebay... what you thinking?
 
I started my rebuild last night on my 1st gen. Scariest moment when I first started to press out the first rotor. That loud crack when it first breaks freak scared me and I for sure thought I broke the rotor plate. Everything is going good so far although I'm having a tough time getting the rotor pack seals out.

Also how do you remove the front nut on the nose cone when it's removed from the main body? I can't figure out a way to hole the shaft from spinning. Do you put it in a vice?

I will be doing a little write up on my rebuild just to go over my impression of the process.
 
Wow guys...I feel bad about never mentioning anything about a catch can. I just assumed everybody was running them. Heck, I run a catch can on my vehicles that aren't boosted. Like the YouTube video explained...your PVC is constantly carrying blow-by (laced with oil) into your intake system, which is just clogging up your intake track, valves and depending where your injectors are, even them!

I have a DuraMax Diesel...and over an Dieselplace.com guys were finding puddles of oil in there intercoolers!!! That's after it's been through the turbo! PVC is not design to make the engine run good, get better MPG, longer life of the engine, or performance...it's there for emissions. And when it comes to emissions...the government could care less about how bad it is for the engine!! They only care what comes out that tail pipe!! EGR is another crime against an engine...oh well, better get of my soap box before I have guys in black suits knocking on my door...since they are monitoring all this...lol!?!

If your confused on which catch can to get...buy a cheap one and then you can later go back and get a more expensive/fancier one!

Good luck...
Russel
 
[MENTION=88597]MyHigh[/MENTION] just rebuild it yourself. those rotors look pretty good but if you are concerned send them to embry and just have the rotors recoated then do the rebuild your self from there.

these will help

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/116833-1st-gen-supercharger-nose-cone-rebuild-mod.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-top-eaton-m62-complete-rebuild-write-up.html

[MENTION=53470]Rockdawg84[/MENTION] thank you for those links, I think my rotors are fine and the housing has hardly any scoring on the backside where the needle pins are. Right now I'm working on drilling and tapping a plug for the fluid change on the nosecone and then I will probably send the rotorpak out to have all the bearing replaced. Lack of press and skill have me in a bind, I know I can buy a press for the cost of them doing the job but skill still has me holding back and of course not much room for a press I'm only going to use once or twice.
Thanks again for the info, I'm sure I will be asking more questions in the future!
 
off topic but, did you never land that Toyota parts gig?

no, they hired internally and that was the only reason i didnt get the job. and i understand that, and so im not upset over it or anything. They are keeping my app and resume open though incase another position comes up.
 
Question for everyone who has a boost gauge. Where have you guys mounted it? I know A-pillar is the most common spot, just curious if there were any other options out there, a bit more stealthy maybe.
 
Question for everyone who has a boost gauge. Where have you guys mounted it? I know A-pillar is the most common spot, just curious if there were any other options out there, a bit more stealthy maybe.

Not a boost gauge, but I run my wideband in the dead space next to the 12v accessory outlets.

DSC_0988.JPG
 

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