The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

'99 & '00 have the AFR sensor if it had California emissions. All '01 & '02 have the AFR sensor. My '99 has the Cali emissions, and I can convert the voltage output reading of the front sensor reading to an AFR.

Okay, yea i knew it started in 2000. i guess for cali specs.
Thats a good "free" way to get some idea where your AFRs are. LUCKY!

But if you plan to tune via AFRs you'll definitely want a wideband. especially one that records to your laptop if you want ultimate convenience.
 
where can you get them for $50?

but i might be willing to have it shipped from HI to the states.


SECOND QUESTION: Does an ultra gauge show A/F ratios?

I present to you, toyota of dallas online parts:
All > TRD>Replacement Parts - Toyota of Dallas - TRDparts4u accessories for your Toyota car, truck, 4x4 or SUV with Genuine Toyota and offroad specialty parts.

scroll to the very bottom you will see:
TRD Supercharger DYNAMIC TENSION W/ PULLEY PTR30-35041

Dyanmic tensioner: $49.20


If you want it shipped from me i can probably squeeze it in a medium flat rate at $15. 3 day priority shipping. + whatever you want to offer for it in its unknown condition

the ultra guage does NOT show A/F ratios.
Well at least not my old one, there is rumor a new version came out that does but unless your truck is one of the newer, i think 00 and up or 01 and up where the OBD2 can read your wideband o2s then yes possibly.

Shoot, please note that is just the tensioner. You need the bracket and bolts as well, which costs around $260 from Toyota. http://trdparts4u.toyotaofdallas.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=-8180
 
I think I have the bolt in the box. I'll look and see if it has the bracket.

But that will be after Christmas.

If you have the bracket and bolt then you should be good to go with just getting the tensioner. I do have a static tensioner I can see if your SC has the threaded hole on the front of the nose cone. When you get it I can let you know if it does.
 
This is the parts I have.
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Nope, thats one of the the hardest ones to find a template or a third party version of..
you want a sc? you gotta pay to play.
that tensioner bracket and it has two special bolts. buy it no other way around it then to find a junkyard t4r that has just the sc taken and the bracket left behind..

very small chances of that happening..


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you see the black bracket on the left hand side of the image?
thats what you'll need.
and there are two unique bolts that go into each hole. mounts directly to the motor which has the bolt holes already existent.
this is the main piece that holds the tensioner in place, so kinda important. :)
 
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'99 & '00 have the AFR sensor if it had California emissions. All '01 & '02 have the AFR sensor. My '99 has the Cali emissions, and I can convert the voltage output reading of the front sensor reading to an AFR.

hey rob 235, how did you do that?? Ive tried all sorts of codes on the scan gauge and none of them work (99 cali emissions). Thanks
 
Nope, thats one of the the hardest ones to find a template or a third party version of..

you want a sc? you gotta pay to play.

that tensioner bracket and it has two special bolts. buy it no other way around it then to find a junkyard t4r that has just the sc taken and the bracket left behind..



very small chances of that happening..





100_0169.jpg




you see the black bracket on the left hand side of the image?

thats what you'll need.

and there are two unique bolts that go into each hole. mounts directly to the motor which has the bolt holes already existent.

this is the main piece that holds the tensioner in place, so kinda important. :)


Yeah I'm just asking around before I drop some money. But after doing some research there are a. Couple guys who have made the brackets in the past and give the dimensions for it all but the recessed chamfered bolt is the absolute B to find and it only comes with the whole tensioner kit.

Has anyone used the static tensioner bracket (or a piece of metal for that matter) and modified it to clear the dynamic tent jones to help support the nose cone/ front of the SC.
 
So I have about 42k on my engine rebuild and also on my supercharger rebuild. I have been running a URD 2.2 pulley until about 10k ago at which point I went to a 2.0 pulley and have been getting about 12psi at full boost. It is super fun.

yesterday I went to start the truck and it clunked and sputtered and then steamed like Thomas the Tank Engine. Yep headgasket. So now we know that even a great rebuild with quality parts and new headbolts is not enough to stand up to 12 psi. Nothing seems to be hurt in the motor just a breached water jacket. So the heads will come off and new better headgaskets will be installed and ARP head studs used and hopefully that will get me better than 40k in the future.

big boost cost gentlemen and I am paying the price.:sadwave:
 
I love this thread. Muchas gracias for all the hombres sharing their experiences so SC del wannabe (me) can learn from those before me...
 
So I need some help deciding on what do to.

I have these two nose cones. One is off my super charger and another is brand new from the dealer.

I have a few options and want to get your thoughts and input.

Problem/ background. The factory nose cone is set up for my static tensioner but it has a bad shaft just where the nut attached to to hold the pulley on and I want to repair this so that I do not loose a pulley.

1st. Can I keep my stock nose cone and just. Drill and tap a hole for a nut and large washer to be inserted in to hold the pulley in place and keep it from wanting to walk off the shaft?

2nd should I take my dealer provided nose cone and mill, drill and tap a new hole for my static tensioner?

Both options are do able by myself at school machine shop with the classes I have had.
So what would you do? Drill and tap the shaft on the original and sell the dealer nose cone replacement or mill the new one and have an extra for parts?
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I'd put on the new one. The bearings in the nose cone will start to go bad after time, I just replaced my nose cone because it was starting to make a lot of noise and the blades were contacting the housing ever so slightly. Also, that way you know you've got another 100k on that supercharger (assuming the rear bearings are in good shape).
 
I'd put on the new one. The bearings in the nose cone will start to go bad after time, I just replaced my nose cone because it was starting to make a lot of noise and the blades were contacting the housing ever so slightly. Also, that way you know you've got another 100k on that supercharger (assuming the rear bearings are in good shape).

Got your old nose cone? I'll buy it off you.
 
Do I decided to drill and tap my old one. Let's see how it works.
Everything went super smooth on it and everything is strong.
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