The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[angus]

so driving home today made me realize something is wrong with mine, i got my wideband installed and under boost i get a 10 atf ratio, and then ill let off the gas sometimes and it will go crazy lean, like so lean that the display starts flashing lean.
what is atf supposed to be at different ranges like riding and stuff ?
also on the highway it didn't seem like it had any nuts to even keep it moving, could this be from the edu adjusting still? i have been doing small like less then 3 mile trips and this was one of the first times I've actually went on the highway so could the edu still be learning or what? i also still do not believe my vacuum hoses are correct because i will punch it from a complete stop and it will not really feel like I'm pushing extra power even though the boost gauge reads 8. then randomly it will kick into something and i will really feel the power. can someone please help, i really don't have much time to commit to this since I'm away at school but i just want this fixed.

i have a 1st gen blower with a 2.2 pulley, urd 7th injector hooked up.

It sounds like you have a tuning issue or your vac lines are not hooked up right.

To answer your question of AFR - it goes dead lean when you let off because you let off - no gas pedal = no fuel = lean, perfectly normal.

If you feel like it's not accelerating it's probably not safe so don't go into boost till you figure it out or you'll be posting a WTB ad for a new engine!

 

[angus]

So my question. My boost gauge reads 5psi under full boost but my URD program on my computer is only showing 3 psi. ive got the stock pulley 2.37 one. Whats wrong?


Thats the reason why my 7th injector was not working, it was not reading the correct boost pressure. my stock map that was loaded was not supposed to kick on until i hit 3 psi of boost at 3,000 RPM and i could bairly reach 3 PSI. so i changed some numbers at 2 psi and 2500 RPM floored it and my ARF instantly dropped from 14.7 to 13.2 and worked great. SO WHATS MY PROBLEM, Why am i loosing boost pressure or not reading it correct.?????

I figured your injector wasn't spraying - most likely the light throttle enrichment you were seeing was only due to the URD box allowing it to come out of closed loop.

So the first question is what boost gauge are you running and is it 1st or 2nd gen blower.

Next thing is that if running any fuel computer that has a boost/vac line input I always like to run a tee and have the boost gauge hooked to the same signal.

If you are unsure of actual boost then you need to get a calibrated gauge and test it.

If the URD box ( made by split-second) is not reading correct boost then the internal map sensor may be bad, in which case you need to talk to split-second.

You can also get yourself a mighty-vac that is made for boost and use it to "pump-up" the map sensor in the URD box and see if it reads the correct boost.

This is a big issue because if your box is not reading the correct boost, it'll be extremely difficult if not impossible to tune.

If your AFR is still only 13.2 then you are way lean, minimum would be 12-ish closer to 11's under full throttle - even with no 7th injector ( mine is coming still) I have 10.8-11.5 with just a Vortech FMU

 

[MTD]

So I am going to go big injectors, pulley down, and tune my 4runner soon here, and have been looking for a tuning solution other than the URD 7th (it's a bandaid). Today I stumbled upon this:

http://www.tokensolutions.net/toyot...and-play-standalone-engine-management-system/

It is a prebuilt Mega Squrit for the 5vzfe that comes with a plug and play harness! I had been tossing around the idea of building a MS, but the amount of work involved to get it to work well with the 5vz has kept me from doing it. I am really thinking about this though! I am going to call these guys up on monday and see what they have to say. If they are on the up and up I may be ordering from them shortly here!

 

[shootmymime]

I figured your injector wasn't spraying - most likely the light throttle enrichment you were seeing was only due to the URD box allowing it to come out of closed loop.

So the first question is what boost gauge are you running and is it 1st or 2nd gen blower. 2nd gen

Next thing is that if running any fuel computer that has a boost/vac line input I always like to run a tee and have the boost gauge hooked to the same signal. yes goes blower nipple, hose, T to FPR, hose, T to Boost gauge, hose to URD map controller

If you are unsure of actual boost then you need to get a calibrated gauge and test it.

If the URD box ( made by split-second) is not reading correct boost then the internal map sensor may be bad, in which case you need to talk to split-second.

You can also get yourself a mighty-vac that is made for boost and use it to "pump-up" the map sensor in the URD box and see if it reads the correct boost.

This is a big issue because if your box is not reading the correct boost, it'll be extremely difficult if not impossible to tune. yeah thats why i want to get it figured out

If your AFR is still only 13.2 then you are way lean, minimum would be 12-ish closer to 11's under full throttle - even with no 7th injector ( mine is coming still) I have 10.8-11.5 with just a Vortech FMU
I was able to get my numbers to drop only because i slowly put some numbers in as i got lower to see if it was actually working and it it.

Does anyone have URD stock preloaded map they send out? id like to get it loaded on today and see if the one i have is the same or not.

 

[angus]

Does anyone have URD stock preloaded map they send out? id like to get it loaded on today and see if the one i have is the same or not.

URD does...

 

[angus]

So I am going to go big injectors, pulley down, and tune my 4runner soon here, and have been looking for a tuning solution other than the URD 7th (it's a bandaid). Today I stumbled upon this:

http://www.tokensolutions.net/toyot...and-play-standalone-engine-management-system/

It is a prebuilt Mega Squrit for the 5vzfe that comes with a plug and play harness! I had been tossing around the idea of building a MS, but the amount of work involved to get it to work well with the 5vz has kept me from doing it. I am really thinking about this though! I am going to call these guys up on monday and see what they have to say. If they are on the up and up I may be ordering from them shortly here!

Sure its a band-aid - but the whole S/C is a band-aid if you want to get technical.

The M62 can't flow much air anyway and the URD 7th kit is pretty well proven to work - what else do you want?

I'm personally sick of "chasing" the perfect tune as it'll basically never be perfect no matter what ECU you run, no matter how much you tune it.

No matter what you do, you will not find an aftermarket ECU that will provide the reliability and other features built into the stock ECU.

As long as it runs safe with no knock and decent AFR I think anything else is a waste - especially for 7-10 PSI in a 4runner.

No, if you were going big single turbo with a built motor etc. etc. then sure get injectors and stand alone - but why??

Tuning cars is like standing around a big hole in the ground and throwing money in -

In the end I prefer to keep it simple.

 

[shootmymime]

URD does...

URD is not open today dude. i said id like to get one TODAY to see if anyone else does.

 

[MTD]

Sure its a band-aid - but the whole S/C is a band-aid if you want to get technical.

The M62 can't flow much air anyway and the URD 7th kit is pretty well proven to work - what else do you want?

I'm personally sick of "chasing" the perfect tune as it'll basically never be perfect no matter what ECU you run, no matter how much you tune it.

No matter what you do, you will not find an aftermarket ECU that will provide the reliability and other features built into the stock ECU.

As long as it runs safe with no knock and decent AFR I think anything else is a waste - especially for 7-10 PSI in a 4runner.

No, if you were going big single turbo with a built motor etc. etc. then sure get injectors and stand alone - but why??

Tuning cars is like standing around a big hole in the ground and throwing money in -

In the end I prefer to keep it simple.

I believe you are confusing bandaid with bolt on. The m62 is just about perfect for my power target as well, if you don't believe me do the calculations and reference the pressure map from eaton. From a tuning stand point the 7th is a bandaid...

I also think you are forgetting that some of us mod for fun. I also enjoy doing things differently. It may not be for everyone but it is for me.

As for reliability, with low boost as you said a MS can be made to be almost as reliable as the stock ECU if you know what you are doing... I have built them from scratch in the pas so I will be fine. I appreciate the input though. If I were to do this I would most likely build my own, I was just excited that someone else has done it successfully already.

 

[MTD]

so driving home today made me realize something is wrong with mine, i got my wideband installed and under boost i get a 10 atf ratio, and then ill let off the gas sometimes and it will go crazy lean, like so lean that the display starts flashing lean.
what is atf supposed to be at different ranges like riding and stuff ?
also on the highway it didn't seem like it had any nuts to even keep it moving, could this be from the edu adjusting still? i have been doing small like less then 3 mile trips and this was one of the first times I've actually went on the highway so could the edu still be learning or what? i also still do not believe my vacuum hoses are correct because i will punch it from a complete stop and it will not really feel like I'm pushing extra power even though the boost gauge reads 8. then randomly it will kick into something and i will really feel the power. can someone please help, i really don't have much time to commit to this since I'm away at school but i just want this fixed.

i have a 1st gen blower with a 2.2 pulley, urd 7th injector hooked up.

Under load is when the AFR is critical. When you get out of the throttle it can and will spike but it isn't a big deal.

 

[shootmymime]

i emailed steve and he said this

Sounds like you don't have the pressure scale set correctly.

Here is the U-Tune Guide for the additional injectors:


www.GadgetOnline.com/u-tune-aic.pdf



Steve (Gadget) Dopler

So how can i adjust it so its at 0 when the motor is not running and exactly where my gauges are showing???

 

[shouldbeasy]

Does anyone have URD stock preloaded map they send out? id like to get it loaded on today and see if the one i have is the same or not.

Yes. I have the stock map.

 

[shootmymime]

Yes. I have the stock map.

steve sent me one thanks! :thumb:

 

[angus]

I believe you are confusing bandaid with bolt on. The m62 is just about perfect for my power target as well, if you don't believe me do the calculations and reference the pressure map from eaton. From a tuning stand point the 7th is a bandaid...

I also think you are forgetting that some of us mod for fun. I also enjoy doing things differently. It may not be for everyone but it is for me.

As for reliability, with low boost as you said a MS can be made to be almost as reliable as the stock ECU if you know what you are doing... I have built them from scratch in the pas so I will be fine. I appreciate the input though. If I were to do this I would most likely build my own, I was just excited that someone else has done it successfully already.

Yeah, you might be right on the band-aid thing - I do also believe the M62 is perfectly sized for the stock 5VZ.

The 7th injector has been successfully used by many many reputable companies for many many years. YES it's a band aid but it does also have it's merits. Cooling and blower efficiency from rotor sealing etc.

I do completely understand that some people tune/mod for fun (I'm one of them - in the right car) personally the S/C was done on my truck to make it more powerful for towing and highway use, passing etc. I want the simplest, safest solution with the least input/cost.

I only worry that others might read your comments and decide that they NEED to do a standalone and bigger injectors when the 7th injector kit will serve them just fine.

That is all - happy tuning!

 

[MTD]

Yeah, you might be right on the band-aid thing - I do also believe the M62 is perfectly sized for the stock 5VZ.

The 7th injector has been successfully used by many many reputable companies for many many years. YES it's a band aid but it does also have it's merits. Cooling and blower efficiency from rotor sealing etc.

Agreed! The 7th does have it's merits, that is the main reason I haven't abandoned the idea yet, but I still would like to figure out something for tuning closed loop.

I only worry that others might read your comments and decide that they NEED to do a standalone and bigger injectors when the 7th injector kit will serve them just fine.

That is all - happy tuning!

You are right haha I never thought about this haha. I by no means meant it to come off that way. As the 4Runner is my toy and DD I have no other vehicle to play with so I have to have my fun with it. I should probably preface each of my posts with a warning telling people that I am a crazy SOB who just wants to make things hard on himself

 

[angus]

OK guys - I joined the 7th injector club tonite.

NOT impressed, the truck is certainly faster and more responsive, but still pinging away and leaner than I'd like at part throttle.

Also not very consistent with the AFR's.

For those with the URD 7th injector I have a question - are you using the pink or the white wire (s) to tap the O2 sensor?

I am going to try to tune it on the dyno ASAP (like today) and if that doesn't do it, I'll be going to a 5PSI pulley.

Interestingly, my gauge reads 7PSI so it seems a bit higher than some report.

 

[foxrider56]

so with wiring the 7th injector, would it be a terrible idea to just wrap the two wires together and electrical tape them for the time being? i do not know how to solder and no shop wants to touch it because it goes into the ecu, so can i temporally tape them together then, learn how to solder and do it right later?


also you can safely unplug the ports from the ecu for easier access, correct?
i don't want to mess anything up by trying to free up more space

 

[Fishwerks]

so with wiring the 7th injector, would it be a terrible idea to just wrap the two wires together and electrical tape them for the time being? i do not know how to solder and no shop wants to touch it because it goes into the ecu, so can i temporally tape them together then, learn how to solder and do it right later?


also you can safely unplug the ports from the ecu for easier access, correct?
i don't want to mess anything up by trying to free up more space

Soldering is not hard. Youtube will teach you how to solder in 5 minutes. Go buy a soldering iron, solder and some 16 ga wire, practice soldering short pieces of wire together before you tackle the 7th wiring. Solder and shrink wrap the 7th connections. This way you don't have to go back and re-do it...

Not sure on your second question.

 

[shootmymime]

I used a small butane torch to solder. Strip the ends. Loop them together. Heat for a couple seconds then drop solder on and watch it get sucked into every little strand then slide heat shrink back over connection and heat. Done. Much faster than using an iron.

 

[foxrider56]

I used a small butane torch to solder. Strip the ends. Loop them together. Heat for a couple seconds then drop solder on and watch it get sucked into every little strand then slide heat shrink back over connection and heat. Done. Much faster than using an iron.

did you unplug the wires so you could get more access?

 

[angus]

did you unplug the wires so you could get more access?

You should unplug the ECU plugs.

Disconnect the battery too.

If you don't know how to solder, you may have better luck crimping them, you will need to buy the PROPER crimps and crimping tool.

In actual fact a proper crimp connection is better than soldering, as solder is technically a bad conductor and a good crimp connection excludes oxygen from the joint and deforms the metal to the point where it has a complete contact. This debate rages on because everyone seems to like soldering - but the factory connections are ALL crimped with the exception of joints exposed to water which will be crime first and then soldered.

It is of the utmost importance to stress that you will need the right crimps and tool as well as the skill to use them (it isn't hard but you need to know what you are looking for in terms of a good connection)

I do think that you will be just as well off learning to solder, it is a good skill and not hard to learn, just practice -

When soldering the joints where the wires are tapped on, I like to strip off about 10mm of insulation and then split the sire strands in 2 - then insert the wire through the strands and wrap it tight. Then you can solder them together and tape them - some like to put a zip tie over the tape so it won't unravel - but I just use 3M super 33 and it doesn't come loose.