The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

That was the sound i was worried about

The belt is a much easier fix than ping. You won't feel the engine "slip" or nothing by any means but you'll notice the sound of the supercharger does not keep pace with the sound of the engine. All of us have had a bad belt at one point or another.

I can't see the pictures here at work, but from what Jerod is describing I would deffinately send it in to be rebuilt and recoated, especially if it is scoreing the side of the blower. If you want it to be reliable you either need to get it rebuilt or not install it.. the coating going into the motor is the least of your problems, you don't want a bearing to self descruct in the middle of nowhere.

Here is who I would reccomend to rebuild it:

Stiegemeier Porting Service

The photos he posted have paint flakes coming off the rotors and the housing has some significant scores on the sides as well as the back. I've never seen the supercharger score the back before.
 
I can't see the pictures here at work, but from what Jerod is describing I would deffinately send it in to be rebuilt and recoated, especially if it is scoreing the side of the blower. If you want it to be reliable you either need to get it rebuilt or not install it.. the coating going into the motor is the least of your problems, you don't want a bearing to self descruct in the middle of nowhere.

Here is who I would reccomend to rebuild it:

Stiegemeier Porting Service

The Supercharger was rebuilt ~100 miles ago and then sold to me. PO rebuilt the nose cone and the rear bearings. He basically did the standard rebuild that any of use would do. So any of the 'scaring' was does before the rebuild. Still a concern?
 
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The Supercharger was rebuilt ~100 miles ago and then sold to me. PO rebuilt the nose cone and the rear bearings. He basically did the standard rebuild that any of use would do.

It needs more... What we do is a bandaid rebuild. In you case your need new rotor pack bearings, which we cant do, and possibly rear case bearings. Rebuilding the nose cone (what most people do) does squat for the issue you are having. If I were you I would be sending it to stiegemeier for a FULL rebuild and a recoat for the rotors.

I am not trying to be a jerk, I only want you to know the facts. If you haven't already you should contact him and get a full list of what was done to it and the specifics. If he tells you he rebuild the rotor pack bearings get a receipt from him to prove it otherwise he is jerking you around. They are not something that any of us on here have the means to do and have the SC still work in the end.
 
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well if he only did the rear bearings the damage may have been done before he did them. while you have it apart see how much movement there is between the rotors that will tell you definitively if it needs a rebuild.
 
well if he only did the rear bearings the damage may have been done before he did them. while you have it apart see how much movement there is between the rotors that will tell you definitively if it needs a rebuild.

So he replaced the nose cone bearings including the coupler and the rear bearings (the two dark holes and the end of the housing). He did not touch the rotor pack bearings as that is too technical. Honestly don't want to spend a fortune boring this thing out unless it absolutely needs it. I will take better pictures and see if the propellers have any movement. I recall a little bit of movement though. Is any movement considered too much? No problem, I know you are not being a jerk. Just giving me the facts which is what I'm seeking :)
 
So he replaced the nose cone bearings including the coupler and the rear bearings (the two dark holes and the end of the housing). He did not touch the rotor pack bearings as that is too technical. Honestly don't want to spend a fortune boring this thing out unless it absolutely needs it. I will take better pictures and see if the propellers have any movement. I recall a little bit of movement though. Is any movement considered too much? No problem, I know you are not being a jerk. Just giving me the facts which is what I'm seeking :)

Maybe make a video of you gently spreading the rotors. I should be able to tell ya from that. If I had to estimate I would say that 1/8" is too much.
 
So he replaced the nose cone bearings including the coupler and the rear bearings (the two dark holes and the end of the housing). He did not touch the rotor pack bearings as that is too technical. Honestly don't want to spend a fortune boring this thing out unless it absolutely needs it. I will take better pictures and see if the propellers have any movement. I recall a little bit of movement though. Is any movement considered too much? No problem, I know you are not being a jerk. Just giving me the facts which is what I'm seeking :)

The rotors need to be air-tight in order to work at their best, If I were to take a guess I would think as-is you would be getting lower than average boost if you put in on due to the uneven surfaces and peeling.

URD changed their 7th injector kit to spray before the rotors since it increases boost every so slightly by using fuel as a "gasket" in a sense to keep air from seeping through the small gaps in the rotors. Those air gaps might seem insignificant but it does make a difference.
 
Idk my coating was fine too, but I had more gouging.

I am gonna bet it is the 7th injector.... Gas is a solvent after all and that coating is very similar to powder coat,which gas will soften.
 
It's official now.
 

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Idk my coating was fine too, but I had more gouging.

I am gonna bet it is the 7th injector.... Gas is a solvent after all and that coating is very similar to powder coat,which gas will soften.

Do you have any pictures of your gouging? It does not look like our superchargers are the only ones with this problem. Seems like when fuel, water or meth are added before the impellers the coating gets eaten away. So be aware of this guy's if you have a meth or 7th kit! I believe the 7th kit has been used on this charger for around a year. Here is a post talking about our issue..

Flaking !! [Teflon]

My plan of action is to strip the coating off and button everything up. I will update what boost I get when she is installed. I might run a meth kit in the future so the coating woukd be eaten away anyways. If in the future more power becomes the goal I will send them in to get re-coated as some rebuilders use a stronger material with can stand up to meth or fuel.
 
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Do you have any pictures of your gouging? It does not look like our superchargers are the only ones with this problem. Seems like when fuel, water or meth are added before the impellers the coating gets eaten away. So be aware of this guy's if you have a meth or 8th kit! I believe the 7th kit has been used on this charger for around a year. Here is a post talking about our issue..

Flaking !! [Teflon]

My plan of action is to strip the coating off and button everything up. I will update what boost I get when she is installed.
I was so pissed about my rear bearings not pressing out nice that I didn't snap any good pics. Plus I had a buddy right there who rebuilds these and ports them for a living and he said it was good to go. He did suggest recoating the rotors though.

I think you would be fine with a meth it though. Methanol is not a very strong solvent. If anything it would remove any contaminants that were in the coating but that's it.
 
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The result...



She is all cleaned and ready for install.

I have the 7th injector kit. What are these spark plus suppose to be gapped at?

 

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