The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[dunktap]

I'm on page 11 so bear with me. I had a question about digital gauges. I was looking into boost and trans temp gauges, but those with the pod start adding up quick and so I started looking into digital readings.

Is anyone here running the DashCommander app to get their boost readings? I'm just wondering how effective or accurate it would be just going through OBD/ECU readings and not direct. If it's a suitable option I would love to get a small tablet installed to permanently display all of the readings. Thanks!

Odb works if you have a 99+ for trans temp but anything before then you have to add a sensor and tap in to the transmission lines yourself. For the boost, I think the only way to get an accurate reading is to tap into one of the vacuum lines in the engine bay.

 

[MillerPKA]

Odb works if you have a 99+ for trans temp but anything before then you have to add a sensor and tap in to the transmission lines yourself. For the boost, I think the only way to get an accurate reading is to tap into one of the vacuum lines in the engine bay.

Hmm thanks for the info. I'm guessing there's no way to interface the vacuum line into a tablet? Just typing it sounds like unpaved ground. I like the idea of a digital interface, but if I can't get an accurate reading for boost I'm not going to do it.

 

[dunktap]

Hmm thanks for the info. I'm guessing there's no way to interface the vacuum line into a tablet? Just typing it sounds like unpaved ground. I like the idea of a digital interface, but if I can't get an accurate reading for boost I'm not going to do it.

Well at the end of the day the boost gauge is just a toy. The a/f ratio gauge (wideband) is the one that's critical to tuning your engine after adding fuel mods & that requires you to tap into your exhaust pipe before your cat. So if you just got the wideband and mounted it somewhere in your dash without buying a custom a pillar then I think you could come out substantially cheaper. & get a scangauge or an ultra gauge for your trans temp if you have 99+.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I'm on page 11 so bear with me. I had a question about digital gauges. I was looking into boost and trans temp gauges, but those with the pod start adding up quick and so I started looking into digital readings.

Is anyone here running the DashCommander app to get their boost readings? I'm just wondering how effective or accurate it would be just going through OBD/ECU readings and not direct. If it's a suitable option I would love to get a small tablet installed to permanently display all of the readings. Thanks!

You're reading the WHOLE thing? That's a lot of posts! Just realize that some of us on here are OCD and do way more than what's necessary, so take some of the suggestions with a grain of salt. If you are looking to install a supercharger and not add any additional mods, no gauges are needed. Even if you do change things they aren't totally necessary but helpful with tuning:

1. AFR gauge - Probably the most helpful especially if you add fuel mods (7th injector) and a smaller pulley since you'll need to tune it. Not needed for a basic supercharger install though.
2. Boost gauge - Not really necessary but nice to have if you have a small pulley like the 2.1 in pulley. Stock superchargers put out roughly 7 PSI max, smaller pulleys will raise it up to about 9 PSI.
3. Transmission gauge - Not necessary for a supercharger but you could add one if you really want to. Scan gauge does just fine though, heck even the Torque Pro app for $5 will tell you it I believe. Mine's a 98 so I can't monitor it, but even if I could I probably wouldn't. A cooler thermostat and/or transmission cooler is much more recommended than a gauge, that way you know you're not going to ever overheat!

Personally, I'm saving up for a AFR gauge, most likely the AEM UEGO gauge since it plays nice with some aftermarket software. Once that's done the methanol injection kit is coming next, then a 2.1 in. pulley! No boost gauge or tranny gauge in the future for me.

 

[0xfded]

You can get a pressure reading with a generic sensor (and something like an Arduino to interpret it), but I don't think you'll find any way to route it into OBD and DashCommander. You'd likely need to roll your own display.

 

[dunktap]

3. Transmission gauge - Not necessary for a supercharger but you could add one if you really want to. Scan gauge does just fine though, heck even the Torque Pro app for $5 will tell you it I believe. Mine's a 98 so I can't monitor it, but even if I could I probably wouldn't. A cooler thermostat and/or transmission cooler is much more recommended than a gauge, that way you know you're not going to ever overheat!

Why not a cooler AND a gauge? They are pretty inexpensive & simple to set up. I think there is some value knowing exactly when your trans is under load ( if you have made significant weight/tire size modifications to stock specs). When I am heading up a steep grade or towing, I can see how far above my established baseline my transmission temp is. This lets me know if I need to adjust my driving or take a break.

It will be really interesting to see what adding the s/c will do to my trans temps.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Why not a cooler AND a gauge? They are pretty inexpensive & simple to set up. I think there is some value knowing exactly when your trans is under load ( if you have made significant weight/tire size modifications to stock specs). When I am heading up a steep grade or towing, I can see how far above my established baseline my transmission temp is. This lets me know if I need to adjust my driving or take a break.

It will be really interesting to see what adding the s/c will do to my trans temps.

You definitely can if you want to. I'm not sure exactly how you would get the transmission temp to the gauge though, you'd probably have to add an additional sensor just for the gauge readings, or have some sort of scan-gauge like display mounted in the dash. It's just not quite as easy as a boost gauge where you just put in a t-fitting to the boost like and you're good.

Then comes the question on where to put the gauge! I'm not a fan of the a-pillar replacements, but depending on what model you have there's not a whole lot of space on the dash either.

 

[Singtoe]

You definitely can if you want to. I'm not sure exactly how you would get the transmission temp to the gauge though, you'd probably have to add an additional sensor just for the gauge readings, or have some sort of scan-gauge like display mounted in the dash. It's just not quite as easy as a boost gauge where you just put in a t-fitting to the boost like and you're good.

Then comes the question on where to put the gauge! I'm not a fan of the a-pillar replacements, but depending on what model you have there's not a whole lot of space on the dash either.

I put my boost gauge in the center console below the cigarette lighter.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/uV6Q5Jr4llI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[dunktap]

Installed my 2nd gen supercharger today! I cranked up the engine and everything was running fine for about 15 seconds and then things went downhill... fast. I started hearing this horrible grinding noise so I shut the engine off immediately. I pulled the belt off of the nose cone and tried to turn it by hand and felt a bunch of inconsistent resistance.

I started wondering if maybe the oil drained out somehow between the two week period between installing a new nose cone/changing oil/replacing rear needle bearings and installing it. I pulled the drain plug while it is still installed and nothing came out... is this normal?

Any thoughts or input would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Singtoe]

Installed my 2nd gen supercharger today! I cranked up the engine and everything was running fine for about 15 seconds and then things went downhill... fast. I started hearing this horrible grinding noise so I shut the engine off immediately. I pulled the belt off of the nose cone and tried to turn it by hand and felt a bunch of inconsistent resistance.

I started wondering if maybe the oil drained out somehow between the two week period between installing a new nose cone/changing oil/replacing rear needle bearings and installing it. I pulled the drain plug while it is still installed and nothing came out... is this normal?

Any thoughts or input would be greatly appreciated!

The pull it apart and see what is going on. It might had some trash on the intake and caused interference.

 

[shootmymime]

I pulled the drain plug while it is still installed and nothing came out... is this normal?



Any thoughts or input would be greatly appreciated!

There should only be 4 oz of oil in there. Not enough to "drain out".
You have to suck it out.

Sounds like it's time to take the nose cone off or apart and see what sprints freely and that does not.

 

[0xfded]

Hmm thanks for the info. I'm guessing there's no way to interface the vacuum line into a tablet? Just typing it sounds like unpaved ground. I like the idea of a digital interface, but if I can't get an accurate reading for boost I'm not going to do it.

Probably not relevant if you're set on tying it into a tablet, but this is the sort of thing you'd be looking for if you wanted to set up a digital interface:

Freescale MPX4250

I've got one in the mail now for when I get around to tying together the bits and pieces of my mkII carputer. In the meantime, this fellow has a complete implementation tied together for a digital boost gauge:

DIY Sub £50 Digital LCD Arduino boost gauge

I'm using the DP sensor myself, but if that doesn't work out I'll try the AP that he's using. Seems pretty straightforward.

 

[dunktap]

There should only be 4 oz of oil in there. Not enough to "drain out".
You have to suck it out.

Sounds like it's time to take the nose cone off or apart and see what sprints freely and that does not.

So i took the nose cone off first and made sure i had the coupler on right and checked that everything spun freely. It did and i reinstalled everything and put new oil in. Started it up and same results. For the first 30 seconds or so the sc has SOME noise but not as much as at the 30 second mark where the grinding intensifies.

I have just taken the supercharger off and i have it on my workbench right now. With the nosecone off, the nosecone itself spins freely and so do the rotors on the inside of the s/c.

I am wondering if there is a slight misalignment of the rear bearings after it runs for a bit. I am going to take rear bearings out and try to re-seat them even though they seem absolutely fine. Any other troubleshooting i could go through?

 

[shootmymime]

Any other troubleshooting i could go through?

Is it a metal scraping noise or gears grinding?

Keep a close eye out for clean metal polished areas.

Are you sure it's coming from the supercharger?

Can you put the stock intake back on and start the truck so rule out its not the truck?

 

[dunktap]

Is it a metal scraping noise or gears grinding?

Keep a close eye out for clean metal polished areas.

Are you sure it's coming from the supercharger?

Can you put the stock intake back on and start the truck so rule out its not the truck?

It is more of a metal scraping noise.


Yeah I am positive that it is the supercharger. After the grinding noises, both times I have shut the engine and tried to turn the supercharger. When I try to turn it, it barely moves and grinds really bad.

It hasn't been like that when I first put the supercharger on (directly after reinstalling the nose cone and adding new oil... Twice)... It spins fine with a little bit of resistance before starting the engine up.

It does, however, grind really bad and has trouble turning after the first 30 seconds of it running.

Something is changing after that initial period of running and I think it has to be the rear bearings. I have no idea though might end up just taking it to a shop to have them professionally press the rear bearings in because I just tried to knock them out and I broke one of them. Hope that's the only issue and that I didn't buy a bum s/c.

 

[tx_shooter]

I ended up taking my S/C to a professional shop for the rear bearings. It cost a couple bucks but considering the cost of the S/C and 4R it was a good decision for my DD. That was almost 8k miles ago and I have had no problems with it since (once I also routed the vacuum lines per the updated version).

Good luck with it; they are great once they are running right.

 

[dunktap]

I ended up taking my S/C to a professional shop for the rear bearings. It cost a couple bucks but considering the cost of the S/C and 4R it was a good decision for my DD. That was almost 8k miles ago and I have had no problems with it since (once I also routed the vacuum lines per the updated version).

Good luck with it; they are great once they are running right.

Thanks man! Do you have a link to the updated version? I did notice that the diagram in my manual didnt make any sense. For example - there was no hose routing for the rear brass barb on the s/c & i had a phantom hose on the passenger side coming up from under the air box.

 

[tx_shooter]

Let me do some digging; I might have it saved on my computer at home.

 

[RussToy]

It is more of a metal scraping noise.


Yeah I am positive that it is the supercharger. After the grinding noises, both times I have shut the engine and tried to turn the supercharger. When I try to turn it, it barely moves and grinds really bad.

It hasn't been like that when I first put the supercharger on (directly after reinstalling the nose cone and adding new oil... Twice)... It spins fine with a little bit of resistance before starting the engine up.

It does, however, grind really bad and has trouble turning after the first 30 seconds of it running.

Something is changing after that initial period of running and I think it has to be the rear bearings. I have no idea though might end up just taking it to a shop to have them professionally press the rear bearings in because I just tried to knock them out and I broke one of them. Hope that's the only issue and that I didn't buy a bum s/c.

If it were me...I'd go ahead and cut my looses and pull the SC!! Open it up and see how bad it is...hopefully you'll get lucky and there's not a ton of damage inside.

That back bearing is a PITA!! IMHO...I personally would send it out and have it professionally rebuilt...then it will be better than new...and actually make more boost then inew!! Like I said...that just my opinion!

I wish you luck either way my friend!!

 

[gamefreakgc]

It is more of a metal scraping noise.


Yeah I am positive that it is the supercharger. After the grinding noises, both times I have shut the engine and tried to turn the supercharger. When I try to turn it, it barely moves and grinds really bad.

It hasn't been like that when I first put the supercharger on (directly after reinstalling the nose cone and adding new oil... Twice)... It spins fine with a little bit of resistance before starting the engine up.

It does, however, grind really bad and has trouble turning after the first 30 seconds of it running.

Something is changing after that initial period of running and I think it has to be the rear bearings. I have no idea though might end up just taking it to a shop to have them professionally press the rear bearings in because I just tried to knock them out and I broke one of them. Hope that's the only issue and that I didn't buy a bum s/c.

If you can't spin it with the engine off... yeah that's the bearings all out of whack. I'm afraid that if it was that bad before and was being used, the housing is going to be torn up kinda bad. Hopefully I'm wrong.

I second the rebuild by a professional. The rear bearings are NOT easy to remove by any stretch of the imagination. I wanted to do it when I got mine but went with a nose cone swap instead since I had no reason to touch the rears (good shape, plenty of grease, no scoring).