The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[Bootboy]

So I removed my SC last night to rebuild the nose but I cannot for the life of me get the nut off the front to remove the pulley. It appears to have thread locker on it. Ive tried it on the truck with the belt to hold it to no avail. Im at my wits end trying to get it off.

Any tips or suggestions?

I even thought about drilling two blind holes in the face of the pulley so I can use a spanner wrench to hold it. I wanted to seek help before I went that far though.

 

[Bluecobra]

You could try a strap wrench or, if you weren't planning on re-using the pulley, you could try one of the Vice Grip Chain Wrenches to hold the pulley. I will be sharing your dilemma soon as I have to rebuild mine as well. Let us know what you end up doing to get it off.

Is there any way to lock it and keep it from turning once you remove the nose? From the other end?

 

[Bootboy]

Is there any way to lock it and keep it from turning once you remove the nose? From the other end?

No, not without risking bending one of the 3 pins that mate with the coupler. I wasn't about the risk that.

 

[anniesball72]

URD T fitting to 7th injector.

Is the URD T fitting for the 7th injector special? The reason I ask is I purchased my 1st Gen supercharger and 7th used and it didn't come with the T fitting so I bought a NAPA one.

I had the the supercharger completely rebuilt and installed it 5000 miles ago.
I verified with Gadget the 7th is the correct part number for my model year.

When I run R4 controller software I only see 5.5-6psi boost with a 2.2 pulley. That seems low and I'm experiencing knock from 2-3000 RPM with moderate to WOT in 2nd 3rd and 4rth gear. I'm trying to tune it but am wondering if the T is wrong and I'm making more boost than the 7th thinks......

Which would throw my whole tune off.

2002 4Runner, with manual transmission swap ( to explain the gear callouts )

 

[shootmymime]

Is the URD T fitting for the 7th injector special? The reason I ask is I purchased my 1st Gen supercharger and 7th used and it didn't come with the T fitting so I bought a NAPA one.

I had the the supercharger completely rebuilt and installed it 5000 miles ago.
I verified with Gadget the 7th is the correct part number for my model year.

When I run R4 controller software I only see 5.5-6psi boost with a 2.2 pulley. That seems low and I'm experiencing knock from 2-3000 RPM with moderate to WOT in 2nd 3rd and 4rth gear. I'm trying to tune it but am wondering if the T is wrong and I'm making more boost than the 7th thinks......

Which would throw my whole tune off.

2002 4Runner, with manual transmission swap ( to explain the gear callouts )

im also wondering if my AIC is not reading the exact psi that my supercharger is putting out. (4-5 max at 4,500 ft witht he 2.1)

 

[4Reak Show]

7th injector install guide; page 29; step labeled "3)"
Appears to use a special T fitting.

 

[anniesball72]

Restrictor T fitting

7th injector install guide; page 29; step labeled "3)"
Appears to use a special T fitting.

Hmm OK then I have to order that and could be throwing my whole tune off?

Without it could you read less boost possibly besides the pulse?

 

[4Reak Show]

That I'm not 100% sure of. I remember I was seeing yours go into the 8-9 psi range.
I'd be willing to bet it's your elevation. How high up are you again?

 

[anniesball72]

That I'm not 100% sure of. I remember I was seeing yours go into the 8-9 psi range.
I'd be willing to bet it's your elevation. How high up are you again?

Depending where I'm at 2500-4000'

 

[4Reak Show]

Yeah that does seem like a pretty big change. Should only like 1.5 potential loss psi for that height range I think...
Only other thing I can think of is you're just not seeing it on the screen? That or you're on "gauge pressure" maybe in the settings? But then I think it would display it way off..

I'm gonna tape my phone up and have it record the laptop screen in slow motion instead if the CamStudio program.
Fool proof for pinpoint accuracy.

 

[shootmymime]

i dont have that "fancy" t fitting in my truck, but i also dont have a buzz sound on my AIC under boost.

yeah i need to check my r4 settings.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/201123-urd-7th-injector-tuning-guide.html

i hear you loose .5 psi per 100 ft elevation up from sea level. im at 4,300
so i should loose around 2.5 psi i feel like i should be closer to the 9s or 10s at sea level but i only get max of 5 psi if my belt does not slip. (static tensioner) :sniper:

 

[gamefreakgc]

So I removed my SC last night to rebuild the nose but I cannot for the life of me get the nut off the front to remove the pulley. It appears to have thread locker on it. Ive tried it on the truck with the belt to hold it to no avail. Im at my wits end trying to get it off.

Any tips or suggestions?

I even thought about drilling two blind holes in the face of the pulley so I can use a spanner wrench to hold it. I wanted to seek help before I went that far though.

If you are looking to only rebuild the nose cone, just buy a nose cone assembly (assuming you have the black gen 2 S/C).

EDIT: Since when are nose cone replacements $500??? They used to be $215. Gosh...

Anyway, you'll need a high torque impact gun. If you have an air compressor, the Harbor Freight Earthquake 1/2 did it for me: 1/2 in. Professional Air Impact Wrench

Or if no compressor, this might do it too, not sure though: 1/2 in. Heavy Duty Electric Impact Wrench

 

[Bluecobra]

I attempted to rebuild my SC this past weekend. The nut was easy to get off with an impact. While I had the snout off I just wrapped a rag around the pulley and hit the nut with the impact and it came right off. The snout bearings were fairly easy, however the rotor bearings in the back of the case were not. In fact they are still there, or what is left of them, anyway. The one on the right does not push through, so I am going to have to go to a machine shop and see if they can work some magic to get it out. Tried with a 20 ton press and a BFH and nothing, other than pieces of needle bearing everywhere. The one on the left, closest to the TB, the back broke out of it. I am going to let the professionals handle that part. I think the one on the left would push through but the right hole must not go through.

 

[dunktap]

I attempted to rebuild my SC this past weekend. The nut was easy to get off with an impact. While I had the snout off I just wrapped a rag around the pulley and hit the nut with the impact and it came right off. The snout bearings were fairly easy, however the rotor bearings in the back of the case were not. In fact they are still there, or what is left of them, anyway. The one on the right does not push through, so I am going to have to go to a machine shop and see if they can work some magic to get it out. Tried with a 20 ton press and a BFH and nothing, other than pieces of needle bearing everywhere. The one on the left, closest to the TB, the back broke out of it. I am going to let the professionals handle that part. I think the one on the left would push through but the right hole must not go through.

I just went through this in January. Machine shop is a good call. Took it to an import tuner shop and they pressed in my new bearings perfectly,added oil, and fipg. Handed off my sc to me with fresh rotor bearings installed for less than $50.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[Bootboy]

If you are looking to only rebuild the nose cone, just buy a nose cone assembly (assuming you have the black gen 2 S/C).



EDIT: Since when are nose cone replacements $500??? They used to be $215. Gosh...



Anyway, you'll need a high torque impact gun. If you have an air compressor, the Harbor Freight Earthquake 1/2 did it for me: 1/2 in. Professional Air Impact Wrench



Or if no compressor, this might do it too, not sure though: 1/2 in. Heavy Duty Electric Impact Wrench

Torque on the nut isn't the problem. Torque to oppose the rotation of the shaft is what I can't seem to get enough of. Everything just spins with the nut because there is no way to apply enough torque on the shaft opposite the direction of the nut.

 

[anniesball72]

T fitting

i dont have that "fancy" t fitting in my truck, but i also dont have a buzz sound on my AIC under boost.

yeah i need to check my r4 settings.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/201123-urd-7th-injector-tuning-guide.html

i hear you loose .5 psi per 100 ft elevation up from sea level. im at 4,300
so i should loose around 2.5 psi i feel like i should be closer to the 9s or 10s at sea level but i only get max of 5 psi if my belt does not slip. (static tensioner) :sniper:

I haven't been able to find any information of what happens if you don't use this T fitting. I'm interested to know.

 

[euser]

I've been browsing around about the trd supercharger for quite some time and have really been wanting to get one. The only thing I'm concerned about is my 4runner is my DD. I plan on picking up a new runner in mid 2018 or early 2019 depending on how the flight school schedule goes, so I need a properly operating vehicle between now and then.

I have a few questions for those who have one and are in the know.
Has it affected reliability of your vehicle at all?
Is it really as foolproof to install as it appears?
Is it worth installing on a stock, original parts engine/vehicle with 200k miles, or am I just asking for repercussions from the extra stress? I'd say the vehicle has been decently taken care of, but it's not perfect. There's some tapping sound at low rpm under load which I believe to be the valves, but I'm not positive.

 

[bugman-74]

EDIT: Since when are nose cone replacements $500??? They used to be $215. Gosh...

For some reason TRD SC related items have been having significant pricing fluctuations since about April. The nosecone kit (was $228, now $541), install kit (was $166, now $294), dynamic tensioner kit (was $262, now $342), and TB "O" gasket (was $8, now $30) are particularly susceptible. No idea what is going on.

Not all vendors are reporting the higher prices, so if you keep an eye out, you can still score these parts at the lower pricing. But who knows how long that will last...

 

[bugman-74]

The snout bearings were fairly easy, however the rotor bearings in the back of the case were not. In fact they are still there, or what is left of them, anyway. The one on the right does not push through, so I am going to have to go to a machine shop and see if they can work some magic to get it out.

Which generation SC? On the 2nd/4th gen (black), they need to be pulled out from the front.

I used a screwdriver to remove the needle bearings and cages, and then used a blind hole puller to yank the rest of the bearing. Tapped the new bearings in with the large end of a 1/2" drive extension. Here's a pic of the puller in action:

 

[dunktap]

For some reason TRD SC related items have been having significant pricing fluctuations since about April. The nosecone kit (was $228, now $541), install kit (was $166, now $294), dynamic tensioner kit (was $262, now $342), and TB "O" gasket (was $8, now $30) are particularly susceptible. No idea what is going on.

Not all vendors are reporting the higher prices, so if you keep an eye out, you can still score these parts at the lower pricing. But who knows how long that will last...

Unreal - This is my receipt from 11/15/15

If you have any questions regarding your order, or if you feel you placed this order in error, please contact us via email at [email protected].

Here is what you ordered.....
1 x PTR30-35040 - TRD Supercharger Belt - V6 3.4L @ $10.80

1 x PTR29-35042 - 3.4 4TH Gen Nose Cone Kit @ $228.00

1 x PTR29-60030 - Replacement Throttle Body Gasket TRD @ $8.39
- Order item detail
$21.26 - Shipping total
$268.45 - Order total