The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[shootmymime]

Mine is a 99, so it uses a narrow band o2. Their is supposed to be a difference between the split second units that use wideband. What do you mean overage? You mean in your fuel map? Or do you mean your overpressure in the output b in the options menu? If you set the overpressure to 2, it basically sends a false signal into the o2 sensor signal wire so that more fuel can be injected with the 7th injector and the ecm won't know its actually richer than 14.7. By doing this though, I think the 6 injectors as a result dump more fuel too. At what point is your ecm bringing the fuel to 14.7? Is their a point you reach in boost where it seems to not bring it to 14.7? In the options menu, click on output settings. In output b mode select over rpm and pressure. Then below you will see the over pressure and over rpm boxes. Set the overpressure to -3. Set the rpm to 1700. If its really rich this way, try going into the fuel map menu b and reduce the 7th injector flow for those areas where its too rich. If its still too rich, try setting the overpressure to -2 or -1. You can also adjust the rpm where overpressure begins to fool the ecm.

yes on my 2000 i have the wide band, "overage" we are talking about the same thing. Ok ill give that a go and see what it thinks.

when my ecu pulls any fuel, im talking about fuel that the 7th is spraying when the blue rectangle reaches that cell while i am still in closed loop. once open loop happens my AFR drop from 13.6 to 12.5 this is where i need to increase my values in the corresponding cells to get more fuel (11.5 numbers)

ok ill change my over pressure tomorrow and go for a joy ride. :hunter:

 

[Cat100]

I need some help diagnosing a new to me SC'd 4runner(1998). This rig was in a rollover accident and i sased it and turned it into a trail rig. I am chasing a overheating issue when pulling hills at highway speeds. I think it is a lean overheat, but the prior owner lives near me and he never had any issues with it.

98 4runner with 200k, SC'd for 150k
No fuel mods
New rad, cap, hoses, waterpump, thermostat(jiggle at 6), fan clutch, coolant burped.
K&n - cleaned maf and install aem filter
No CEL and no pending codes

Using an aem uego:
afrs in closed hover around 13.8-14.8
Afrs in open stay real close to 12.8

Stock pulley and boost goes up to 6 psi and no bleed off.

Using a scangauge:
Idles at 10f above thermo temp(170)
Drives around town at 20f above thermo temp
Pull a half mile hill and it climbs fast to 220f and continues to climb.
Then as soon as you crest it begins to cool off back to 190f.

Unplugging the front o2 throwing it into open loop makes it pull even harder, and seems to drop the overall temp by a few degrees but that could just be outside temp changes.

So in your experiences are those afrs lean enough to cause this overheating?

 

[gamefreakgc]

I need some help diagnosing a new to me SC'd 4runner(1998). This rig was in a rollover accident and i sased it and turned it into a trail rig. I am chasing a overheating issue when pulling hills at highway speeds. I think it is a lean overheat, but the prior owner lives near me and he never had any issues with it.

98 4runner with 200k, SC'd for 150k
No fuel mods
New rad, cap, hoses, waterpump, thermostat(jiggle at 6), fan clutch, coolant burped.
K&n - cleaned maf and install aem filter
No CEL and no pending codes

Using an aem uego:
afrs in closed hover around 13.8-14.8
Afrs in open stay real close to 12.8

Stock pulley and boost goes up to 6 psi and no bleed off.

Using a scangauge:
Idles at 10f above thermo temp(170)
Drives around town at 20f above thermo temp
Pull a half mile hill and it climbs fast to 220f and continues to climb.
Then as soon as you crest it begins to cool off back to 190f.

Unplugging the front o2 throwing it into open loop makes it pull even harder, and seems to drop the overall temp by a few degrees but that could just be outside temp changes.

So in your experiences are those afrs lean enough to cause this overheating?

No, I'd look to your cooling system, not your fuel. Has the radiator ever been replaced? Coolant is good, not too much water? Water pump in good shape?

 

[Cat100]

No, I'd look to your cooling system, not your fuel. Has the radiator ever been replaced? Coolant is good, not too much water? Water pump in good shape?

Thanks. The whole cooling system has been replaced by me after I sased it. New koyo rad, cap, hoses, multiple thermos, and water pump. 50/50 green and water.

No coolant usage, no gunk nor exhaust in coolant, no cool spots on rad, overflow works properly and pushes and sucks like it should. Both hoses get hot. Heater works fine. No real sign of overheating except for my scangauge trlling me it is.

I use the scangauge in my FJ and Tacoma and it seems to be reading correctly on them.

It does look to have a non oem upstream o2, but no codes and afrs seem to be within limits.

 

[shootmymime]

Thanks. The whole cooling system has been replaced by me after I sased it. New koyo rad, cap, hoses, multiple thermos, and water pump. 50/50 green and water.

No coolant usage, no gunk nor exhaust in coolant, no cool spots on rad, overflow works properly and pushes and sucks like it should. Both hoses get hot. Heater works fine. No real sign of overheating except for my scangauge trlling me it is.

I use the scangauge in my FJ and Tacoma and it seems to be reading correctly on them.

It does look to have a non oem upstream o2, but no codes and afrs seem to be within limits.

I would agree your on the right path. My 7th injector was not working properly thus less fuel than needed. I was running 5 psi and easily saw 220 temps in normal small slope hill pulls. Where I was in boost for maybe 30 sec. When it would I would drop all the windows and blow heat full blast to act as another radiator to help cool it down. Worked like a champ at keeping temps low in hot conditions. I would also see intake temps reach well above 150deg in some of these pulls. That's some hot intake charge. (This is when you need water meth injections).

I have added more fuel and consistently never see it above 205.

Does it or could it overheat while sitting there idling? Probably not.



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[Cat100]

I would agree your on the right path. My 7th injector was not working properly thus less fuel than needed. I was running 5 psi and easily saw 220 temps in normal small slope hill pulls. Where I was in boost for maybe 30 sec. When it would I would drop all the windows and blow heat full blast to act as another radiator to help cool it down. Worked like a champ at keeping temps low in hot conditions. I would also see intake temps reach well above 150deg in some of these pulls. That's some hot intake charge. (This is when you need water meth injections).

I have added more fuel and consistently never see it above 205.

Does it or could it overheat while sitting there idling? Probably not.



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Great info.Temp at idle is perfect and stable, i have left it idling for almost an hour with the ac on a 100f day. An example of a drive would be 190 on the flats in boost, then one steep hill of about 2 miles where it jumps to 220 then crest and it drops to 200 within a couple minutes and then back to 190 in a few more minutes. If i pull over it cools off as well.

I have tested and swaped fan clutches with no change. One has 30k CST fluid in it so it is permanently on and i still see these temps.

 

[shootmymime]

Great info.Temp at idle is perfect and stable, i have left it idling for almost an hour with the ac on a 100f day. An example of a drive would be 190 on the flats in boost, then one steep hill of about 2 miles where it jumps to 220 then crest and it drops to 200 within a couple minutes and then back to 190 in a few more minutes. If i pull over it cools off as well.

I have tested and swaped fan clutches with no change. One has 30k CST fluid in it so it is permanently on and i still see these temps.

If you can tune it. Throw in a little more fuel. I did with mine and zero problems. Or a meth kit.


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[Cat100]

If you can tune it. Throw in a little more fuel. I did with mine and zero problems. Or a meth kit.


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I dont have any fuel mods or piggybacks. Since it isnt my DD i am hesitant to throw $1k at it. I have been looking at the DO meth kits and might go that way since a jug of meth would last me a while.

 

[mcaz5]

Does anyone have any advice/experience on removing a stripped allen bolt that holds in the dynamic tensioner? I tried a torx bit and the metal on the bit bent. So I assume that whoever installed the charger used loctite on that bolt instead of anti-seize like trd now recommends.

And is ordering a completely new dynamic tensioner still the only way to get a new bolt?

(not my picture but shows exactly what I'm talking about)
https://www.4runners.com/attachments/image-jpg.2552/

 

[Cat100]

Does anyone have any advice/experience on removing a stripped allen bolt that holds in the dynamic tensioner? I tried a torx bit and the metal on the bit bent. So I assume that whoever installed the charger used loctite on that bolt instead of anti-seize like trd now recommends.

And is ordering a completely new dynamic tensioner still the only way to get a new bolt?

(not my picture but shows exactly what I'm talking about)
https://www.4runners.com/attachments/image-jpg.2552/

Shield the loom and heat the bolt head with a map torch. If you cant fit an oversized bit into the stripped hole then use a die grinder and cut a groove across the face, then use an impact driver.

 

[shootmymime]

Does anyone have any advice/experience on removing a stripped allen bolt that holds in the dynamic tensioner? I tried a torx bit and the metal on the bit bent. So I assume that whoever installed the charger used loctite on that bolt instead of anti-seize like trd now recommends.

And is ordering a completely new dynamic tensioner still the only way to get a new bolt?

(not my picture but shows exactly what I'm talking about)
https://www.4runners.com/attachments/image-jpg.2552/

if none of CATs things work drive it into a shop and have them weld a nut on the end, when it cools take it off with a wrench.

But to answer you now need a bolt problem. Ive been looking :hunter: and havent seen a thing. i can find the longer bolt just fine, but nowhere for the small one.

I paid $253 shipped to my house for the tensioner, it will be here wednesday.

look a page or so back, i asked about the bolts and a guy posted a link with the cheapest price online where i got the tensioner you may have to go that route.Good luck

 

[Cat100]

So i pulled apart mynew aisin fan clutch(about 200 miles) and adjusted it and it seems to have cured my issue. It was only half full and was set to turn on at 125f. I topped it off with 15k CST and adjusted it to half open at 95f. Its only mid 90s here today but on hills that i would hit 220f on it stays rock steady at 190f. So i am going to rail on it for the next week and see if it really is fixed.

Usually going 65mph should be a large enough rush of cool air thru the rad, but i guess in this instance the fan must help enough.

 

[gamefreakgc]

For anyone in Northern California, there's been a lot of Superchargers popping up lately on Craigslist. Most are 1st Gen so they might need a rebuild but still a good price. Starting at $1300.

If you're following this thread and looking to score one, here's your chance.

sacramento auto parts "Toyota supercharger" - craigslist

 

[FrankieJoe14]

There is also one floating around on car-part.com for $700. I have no idea about any details on it though but that brought me to this thread.

 

[lkhunter]

if none of CATs things work drive it into a shop and have them weld a nut on the end, when it cools take it off with a wrench.

But to answer you now need a bolt problem. Ive been looking :hunter: and havent seen a thing. i can find the longer bolt just fine, but nowhere for the small one.

I paid $253 shipped to my house for the tensioner, it will be here wednesday.

look a page or so back, i asked about the bolts and a guy posted a link with the cheapest price online where i got the tensioner you may have to go that route.Good luck

Ill try to get the bolt specs since mine is not installed yet. Either mcmaster carr or fastenal should be able to get it. Ill post back today

 

[gamefreakgc]

There is also one floating around on car-part.com for $700. I have no idea about any details on it though but that brought me to this thread.

I contacted the yard that has it and it's the older grey supercharger. Due to most of these being higher mileage and in need of a rebuild, you'd probably have to spend another $700-1000 on a rebuild and all the parts needed to use it (listed on first post on this page).

 

[FrankieJoe14]

yep. here was my train of thought.

See SC - come to this thread - see how much work it was - realize there's 3k in parts I want to do first before tackling a SC - post here about finding the SC

:lookout:

 

[lkhunter]

I contacted the yard that has it and it's the older grey supercharger. Due to most of these being higher mileage and in need of a rebuild, you'd probably have to spend another $700-1000 on a rebuild and all the parts needed to use it (listed on first post on this page).

It wont cost that much to rebuild unless you cant do the work yourself. They are pretty simple to work on except for the rotor pack bearings.

 

[gamefreakgc]

It wont cost that much to rebuild unless you cant do the work yourself. They are pretty simple to work on except for the rotor pack bearings.

No, not that much to rebuild but the parts that are missing will add up quick. Dynamic tensioner is $250, hoses, bolts, IAC valve, etc etc will easily add up to $400 plus just for those.

I think most shops will rebuild it for $500 or less. I'm not sure exactly since I also rebuilt my own but I have a black 2nd Gen, it's much, much easier.

 

[lkhunter]

No, not that much to rebuild but the parts that are missing will add up quick. Dynamic tensioner is $250, hoses, bolts, IAC valve, etc etc will easily add up to $400 plus just for those.

I think most shops will rebuild it for $500 or less. I'm not sure exactly since I also rebuilt my own but I have a black 2nd Gen, it's much, much easier.

Yea parts missing makes it suck. But still for about 1500 you are into a charger, not bad. If i sold mine with everything it would be that much.