shootmymime
New member
Who has/ rebuilds nose cones? i need the shaft. everything else is in good shape just my shaft is broken and no more nut.
The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
Jahmiroquai
Member
Thanks man. attempting a rebuild of the S/C myself.
Whats weird is there doesn't appear to be any gasket maker between the nose cone/ rotor plate, nor the rotor plate / S/C housing.
Planning on jobbing out the S/C body for hot tanking & pressing in the bearings.
White Stripe
New member
Try lcengineering
shootmymime
New member
I'm at 4,500 and I'm thinking about he 2.2. I currently have the 2.2 and see average 5s. Not quite sure on full throttle. Maybe 6-7
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
2.1 would be a more noticable difference than the 2.2. But either will increase boost. Just be careful, if you are not adding extra fuel beyond the stock system and you find yourself at closer to sea level, keep it out of high boost situations. 2.1 is not safe without proper tuning at sea level, even with the piggyback the stock injectors just don't supply enough fuel.
shootmymime
New member
Nose cone bearings, are they sealed? or are they lubed by the internal oil?
shouldbeasy
New member
I run the 2.2 and get 8.5 lbs boost at WOT at 3300 ft. No pinging and tuned on 94 octane with 7th injector.
I am tempted to grab the 2.1 but don't want to deal with any issues if I do go down to sea level... Then again, I would just need to add a bunch of octane booster as I did last time. Decisions, decisions.
I am tempted to grab the 2.1 but don't want to deal with any issues if I do go down to sea level... Then again, I would just need to add a bunch of octane booster as I did last time. Decisions, decisions.
Jahmiroquai
Member
So, on my 1st gen S/C: The nose cone bearings are not sealed per se; the ball bearings are visible. Of the 2 bearings in the nose cone, it's possible the rear one could contact the oil in the nose cone housing, but probably not the front and it's debatable to what extent the bearing would be lubricated
There is a shot from the rear of my removed nose cone a few posts up.
At present, I am rounding up a few quotes to have a shop R/R the bearings, vs buying a press and attempting myself. I'm a bit worried about servicing the rotor plate, since I've heard it's relatively easy to crack the rotor plate and/or mis-align the bearings.
Also, I am not sure how to remove the straight cut gears before pressing out the rotors; clearance is pretty tight to try to sick a bearing splitter in between. I've serviced wheel bearings on other vehicles before, but those had plenty of room to insert cylinder-style bearing pullers.
Rockdawg84
New member
they are non sealed. Just in case you haven't seen it:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/116833-1st-gen-supercharger-nose-cone-rebuild-mod.html
Rockdawg84
New member
It's been a while but if I remember correctly the straight cut gears were not hard to get off or press back on if you take your time. [MENTION=58096]chris360hawks[/MENTION] did a nice write up on the whole process.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-top-eaton-m62-complete-rebuild-write-up.html
shootmymime
New member
im following the one on ttora. mine is a black Sc but nose cones are about the same.
the reason for my need to rebuild is not the supercharger is making noise, but rather my nose cone shaft threads for the nut to screw on are broke off. i have then drilled and tapped the shaft to insert a bolt. i have finally decided to fit the problem. not to mention i am eating URD aluminum pulley like they are candy. the fit between the pulley and shaft is a easy slide on fitting /(not press by any means) so it has a loose fit and eventually the truck wobbles back and forth the key way and starts making noise with it. opening up that key slot more and more until it just sits there and rattles.
so i went back to the stock pulley which is a press fit onto the shaft while i wait for a new shaft to come in along with a nut. I may need a new URD 2.2 (2.1, 2.0) but we will see.
Jahmiroquai
Member
So, I've disassembled my S/C and pressed everything apart except the seals in the rotor plate.
When I was removing the bearings in the rotor plate, a thin strip of metal came off of the rotor plate around each bearing. Wondering if my rotor plate is trashed, or if I can smooth out the rough spots and press in new seals / bearings.
Also, taking advice on how to cut out the rotor seals without marring the rotor plate.
When I was removing the bearings in the rotor plate, a thin strip of metal came off of the rotor plate around each bearing. Wondering if my rotor plate is trashed, or if I can smooth out the rough spots and press in new seals / bearings.
Also, taking advice on how to cut out the rotor seals without marring the rotor plate.
dunktap
New member
My dynamic tensioner bearing failed and left me stranded 300+ miles from my home at appalachian toyota roundup last weekend. Just a PSA to check your tensioner bearings. The tensioner pulley also broke through my timing belt cover may have made contact with the belt.
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
You might be out of luck... you could always try to put it all together since finding another rotor plate will probably be very expensive. Did you press the bearing out crooked? Only way I could think of it breaking like that is if the pressure wasn't completely centered and it bent and weakened the metal.
The tension is pushing away from the timing cover, how is that possible? Unless you were doing some crazy stuff and the belt tightened up so much it smashed the tensioner into the timing belt cover?
Press the new bearings in. Aluminum always shaves off when you press in or out unless you are dead nuts onSo, I've disassembled my S/C and pressed everything apart except the seals in the rotor plate.
When I was removing the bearings in the rotor plate, a thin strip of metal came off of the rotor plate around each bearing. Wondering if my rotor plate is trashed, or if I can smooth out the rough spots and press in new seals / bearings.
Also, taking advice on how to cut out the rotor seals without marring the rotor plate.
dunktap
New member
I was kinda confused about that also. I was wheeling with a toyota tech when it happened up at windrock park last weekend. His analysis was that the bearing just wore out over time and when it failed it seized up and caused the pulley to pop off.
We had pulled off the trail and were back on the main road when i noticed a rhythmic sound under the hood. It ended up being the pulley wobbling around and knocking against the timing belt cover. I opened up the SC a bit through a few mud holes, but that was hours beforehand.
The belt itself was still intact around all pulleys except it was about half as thick & it was partially shredded off inside the hole that the pulley made inside the timing belt cover.
bugman-74
New member
This is because the material was intentionally deformed (staked) around the bearing for retention purposes. It is recommended to weld retaining rings back in place.
Out of curiosity: Were you having an issue with the rotor pack bearings? Rotor pack bearings and seals are usually the last to go bad, after the nosecone bearings and rear needle bearings.
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I am trying to determine if my rotor bearings are going bad. I have replaced the snout bearings and the rear needle bearings but still have a slight tinny buzzing sound when under a load. It doesn't always make the noise, mainly makes it when cold. Are the rotor bearings difficult to replace? I haven't seen any posts about this process.
