The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[shootmymime]

I am trying to determine if my rotor bearings are going bad. I have replaced the snout bearings and the rear needle bearings but still have a slight tinny buzzing sound when under a load. It doesn't always make the noise, mainly makes it when cold. Are the rotor bearings difficult to replace? I haven't seen any posts about this process.

How did you get the rear bearings out?


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[bugman-74]

How did you get the rear bearings out?

On the 2nd/4th gen this is the best method. Might work for the gray one also, but I'm not certain.

 

[Jahmiroquai]

You might be out of luck... you could always try to put it all together since finding another rotor plate will probably be very expensive. Did you press the bearing out crooked? Only way I could think of it breaking like that is if the pressure wasn't completely centered and it bent and weakened the metal.

Press the new bearings in. Aluminum always shaves off when you press in or out unless you are dead nuts on

This is because the material was intentionally deformed (staked) around the bearing for retention purposes. It is recommended to weld retaining rings back in place.

I thought I had everything as lined up as possible using a 12 ton press. Googling around for a replacement rotor plate, the ones Jon Bond sells appear to have the exact same ring of metal removed. Maybe the factory added this metal as a final step in the assembly process, which is basically what bugman said.

Out of curiosity: Were you having an issue with the rotor pack bearings? Rotor pack bearings and seals are usually the last to go bad, after the nosecone bearings and rear needle bearings.

So, this whole process started because I was getting a rattling noise from the S/C at idle.

TRD Gen 1 S/C bearing noise

Given that i bought the truck with ~150K, and had no idea if any of the bearings had ever been serviced (they hadn't), I decided to do a full rebuild.

Originally was going to job it out, but no local shop would work on it and I wanted to give it a shot myself before shipping out to a specialty shop.

 

[Bluecobra]

How did you get the rear bearings out?
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I tried using a blind bearing puller on the bearing on the driver's side, as it is a blind hole, but I could not get it to move. The passenger side was supposed to be pushed out through the back and fall out the plenum. Since I had to send it out for the one, I left the second in there as well. I sent it to Embree machine, aka High Speed Labs. They removed what was left of the one bearing and the second and installed new bearings for $200. Well worth it in my opinion.

I wish I had sent the rotors with the case to get them to replace the rotor bearings as well. Oh well....

 

[masphx]

I run the 2.2 and get 8.5 lbs boost at WOT at 3300 ft. No pinging and tuned on 94 octane with 7th injector.

I am tempted to grab the 2.1 but don't want to deal with any issues if I do go down to sea level... Then again, I would just need to add a bunch of octane booster as I did last time. Decisions, decisions.

What boost do you actually get on your 7th map. My boost guage shows your numbers all day long but on my 7th map im getting 5- 5.5 psi. 2.2 pulley. 1200 feet in 80 degrees

 

[shootmymime]

What boost do you actually get on your 7th map. My boost guage shows your numbers all day long but on my 7th map im getting 5- 5.5 psi. 2.2 pulley. 1200 feet in 80 degrees

Do you guys have afr meters? I had to dump a ton of fuel into the tuck by adjusting the map to even see 11.5 afr. I was in the high 12 with my 2.2. (5-6 psi at 4,500 on the controller).


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[masphx]

Do you guys have afr meters? I had to dump a ton of fuel into the tuck by adjusting the map to even see 11.5 afr. I was in the high 12 with my 2.2. (5-6 psi at 4,500 on the controller).


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Yes, im getting 10.9 or so at wot with 1.1 in the cell. I guess 11.8 is the magic number but cant see myself removing fuel as i cant go below 1.1 in the cell.

 

[shouldbeasy]

What boost do you actually get on your 7th map. My boost guage shows your numbers all day long but on my 7th map im getting 5- 5.5 psi. 2.2 pulley. 1200 feet in 80 degrees

I'll check for you. Pretty easy to hook up the laptop.

When I had the dyno tuning done, I remember the guys telling me I had a small boost leak at the gauge fitting which was making it read low... which in my head means that I am getting full boost on the 7th injector map and not the gauge (rather, there is a small discrepancy between the two).

Just yesterday I put pedal to the floor and completed a little Italian tune up and saw a constant 8psi of boost - but my gauge at atmospheric conditions reads 0.5 psi in vacuum. Expected with gauge calibration set to sea level and I am 3000'+ above.

EDIT - as for AFR, yes, Wideband 02 with a PLX system. Cruises fantastic at 14.7-15.0 AFR and full throttle drops to 11.7 or so. I'd have to double check the actual lowest value I see at WOT.

 

[Jahmiroquai]

OK, 2 new questions:

1 - I got the new rotor bearings pressed in. The outer brace freely rotates within the mounting slot.

Would a few dabs of Loctite around the outer race be enough to secure it, or does it really need to be held in via the welded retaining rings?



2 - Pressing in one of the rear needle bearings, I noticed a little bit of material accumulated in the red circled area. I'm worried that I pressed that bearing in slightly off-center, just looking for a second opinion.

 

[dunktap]

OK, 2 new questions:

1 - I got the new rotor bearings pressed in. The outer brace freely rotates within the mounting slot.

Would a few dabs of Loctite around the outer race be enough to secure it, or does it really need to be held in via the welded retaining rings?



2 - Pressing in one of the rear needle bearings, I noticed a little bit of material accumulated in the red circled area. I'm worried that I pressed that bearing in slightly off-center, just looking for a second opinion.

Take it to a machine shop or a shop customizing in engine performance. They pressed mine in for $50 bucks.

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[shootmymime]

So i just rebuilt my supercharger.

I got everything sourced from around town besides the coupler and rear bearings. My coupler was 100% perfect and the bearings i just regressed.

I am thinking about selling a rebuild kit if anyone is interested. Ether nose cone or everything (minus rear bearings)
If you guys are interested let me know and ill get together more information and price for bearings/ seals. Ill post pictures in a bit. I only took a couple because there are a bunch of rebuild threads.

 

[MTD]

So i just rebuilt my supercharger.

I got everything sourced from around town besides the coupler and rear bearings. My coupler was 100% perfect and the bearings i just regressed.

I am thinking about selling a rebuild kit if anyone is interested. Ether nose cone or everything (minus rear bearings)
If you guys are interested let me know and ill get together more information and price for bearings/ seals. Ill post pictures in a bit. I only took a couple because there are a bunch of rebuild threads.

Wait. You did your own rotor pack bearings?

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[shootmymime]

Wait. You did your own rotor pack bearings?

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No. Forgot that part as well. My supercharger was actually in very good shape. It did not need rebuilding. But my nose cone shaft broke so I replaced it. And the bearings and seal in the nose cone.

I was surprised that my rotors were not scratched or the housing. The coating was still together on all the tips of the rotors. I just put new high temp grease in the rear bearings and put them back in.

Everything went together smoothly. But doing the nose cone was a pain trying to get everything situated and not pressing one bearing out while pressing the shaft in. I'm glad to have my 2.2 pulley back on. The stock is such a slow pig. It just builds boost so slow.


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[Jahmiroquai]

Take it to a machine shop or a shop customizing in engine performance. They pressed mine in for $50 bucks.

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Took the unit to a local speed shop. They told me to send it in for re-manufacture.

I think I'm ready to throw in the towel on this one.

 

[shootmymime]

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[dunktap]

Took the unit to a local speed shop. They told me to send it in for re-manufacture.

I think I'm ready to throw in the towel on this one.

Yeah i had to call around to find a place to do it. Went through about 10 different businesses before I found one.

 

[Bootboy]

Has anyone here had any trouble retiming the rotors when pressing the gears back onto the shafts?

That's the part that freaks me out. They have to be perfect or else you will have rotor contact.

Also, I'm super annoyed that I can't get the nut off the nose cone shaft. It's on there so damn tight that even an impact won't loosen it. It just spins the whole thing and the belt slips.

Any ideas? I'm about ready to drill holes in the pulley so I can get a spanner wrench to hold it.

All I know is that the rattle of the SC at idle is driving me nuts.

 

[Bluecobra]

Also, I'm super annoyed that I can't get the nut off the nose cone shaft. It's on there so damn tight that even an impact won't loosen it. It just spins the whole thing and the belt slips.

Any ideas? I'm about ready to drill holes in the pulley so I can get a spanner wrench to hold it.

All I know is that the rattle of the SC at idle is driving me nuts.

I got one of those ViseGrip chain wrenches to hold the pulley. Of course I replaced the old pulley so I didn't care if it marked it up. You could use an old belt to protect the pulley if needed.

In the end mine came off with just the impact and holding the pulley with a rag to protect my hand.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Has anyone here had any trouble retiming the rotors when pressing the gears back onto the shafts?

That's the part that freaks me out. They have to be perfect or else you will have rotor contact.

Also, I'm super annoyed that I can't get the nut off the nose cone shaft. It's on there so damn tight that even an impact won't loosen it. It just spins the whole thing and the belt slips.

Any ideas? I'm about ready to drill holes in the pulley so I can get a spanner wrench to hold it.

All I know is that the rattle of the SC at idle is driving me nuts.

It's driving you nuts! Get it? The nut is stuck? Ok, that was bad.

Mine was also on there a bit too tight. After many methods that did not work, I let it lie for about 6 months or so until after I bought an air compressor. I clamped the belt a little around the pulley to have more tension and surface area and hit it hard with a 300 lbs of torque from my heavy duty impact gun.

Short of that, I don't think it would have come off. There no way that I know of to hold the pulley in place to make use of a breaker bar.

 

[Jahmiroquai]

Yeah i had to call around to find a place to do it. Went through about 10 different businesses before I found one.

Trouble is I already removed both old rear needle bearings, so there wasn't a good way to make sure the new ones were pressed into the correct depth.

Probably gonna send off my pile o' parts to Embree for reassembly.