I sent mine (Gen2) to The High Speed Labs, aka Embree Machine. All I needed was the rear rotor bearings replaced as I rebuilt the snout myself. I couldn't get one of the rears out even using my blind bearing puller. On some of the Gen2 castings you can push both of the rear rotor bearings out through the back. On the earlier castings the right hole is a blind hole, meaning the bearing has to be pulled out. Wade and Alicia were great to deal with. They pulled the remains of the bearing and put new bearings in for about $200, but 50 of that was for return shipping. They seem to be busy always but total turnaround on mine was about 2 weeks. Pic is attached of the difference in the castings. Mine is the casing on the right.
The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
I sent mine (Gen2) to The High Speed Labs, aka Embree Machine. All I needed was the rear rotor bearings replaced as I rebuilt the snout myself. I couldn't get one of the rears out even using my blind bearing puller. On some of the Gen2 castings you can push both of the rear rotor bearings out through the back. On the earlier castings the right hole is a blind hole, meaning the bearing has to be pulled out. Wade and Alicia were great to deal with. They pulled the remains of the bearing and put new bearings in for about $200, but 50 of that was for return shipping. They seem to be busy always but total turnaround on mine was about 2 weeks. Pic is attached of the difference in the castings. Mine is the casing on the right.
shootmymime
New member
when i rebuilt mine this summer. I rebuilt the nosecone. pulled the rotors. there was no rubbing between the rotors/ housing nor any flaking off the rotor coating. i greased my rear bearings and put it all back together.
yes you may have to tear your apart and look at the condition. and go from there :brick:
I pulled my rotors this summer and they look perfect. No wear at all. But she sure is making a lot of noise.
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White Stripe
New member
A shop in Colorado rebuilds them. Colorado Toyota Specialists. There are a lot of supercharged trucks in Colorado. The owner got a lot of customers with noisy superchargers, for a while he would send the charger to Magnuson. But now he just replaces the bearings and seals himself for customers.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
2 weeks later, still waiting on Snow Performance to get back to me on a warranty claim. Had the controller blow up on me during install. They sure were quick to sell it to me but not so quick to get back to me about a replacement...
I just want to drive my 4Runner like it's supposed to be drivenKeeping it out of boost with a 2.1" pulley at sea level isn't much fun.
Ok, don't ever expect a warranty claim from Snow Performance. 4 weeks later and no response so I put in a complaint with the BBB (won't really do much but leave a record for other buyers) and am now working with my credit card company to refund the charge.
They responded to all my application questions in 1-2 days but 4 weeks for a warranty claim. It's also the same email address so I know they are reading it and ignoring it.
The sad thing is that I still have to buy another replacement from them... but won't do that until I can get the old one refunded.
RussToy
New member
Wow...this totally blows!! Seems like such an established business would work hard at keeping a good name for themselves...especially in such a small nitch performance area. Please let us know what happens.
I'm still excited to hear about the performance (good or bad) with water/meth on our SC 4Runner! Wish you the best of luck :cheer2:
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Yeah, it kinda sucks. It seems like they have had better days, since their installation instruction, tuning guide, and nozzle guides are all very helpful. They were quick to sell me a replacement controller but have no interest in helping beyond that. Looking at the BBB complaints, it seems things started to go downhill from there. It's too bad, since I spoke with the owner himself about the application (Matt Snow) so it's a bummer when he doesn't want to back up his products and value return customers.
I will say, that although I haven't pushed it beyond 4 PSI, the 2.1" pulley is a noticable difference from the stock 2.37" pulley. I hit just about 6.5 PSI on my stock pulley, and am expecting about 9-10 PSI max on the 2.1". Tuning the system will be very easy, between the start/max settings on the controller and the AFR gauge there's not much to control. Won't be a clean tune by any means but should be good enough for what I'm after.
shootmymime
New member
Do you have any more fuel mods?
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Jahmiroquai
Member
So I’m having a shop rebuild my SC, but it’s taking several weeks and it’s likely I’ll need use of my truck before they’re done.
To run the truck in stock form, do I just need to source an upper & middle intake manifold from eBay, plus a new alt belt, and I’m good to go?
Found this thread which seemed to indicate the above but wanted to confirm here.
Is there any ECU programming that would cause a problem, either running NA, or once I get the SC put back on?
To run the truck in stock form, do I just need to source an upper & middle intake manifold from eBay, plus a new alt belt, and I’m good to go?
Found this thread which seemed to indicate the above but wanted to confirm here.
Is there any ECU programming that would cause a problem, either running NA, or once I get the SC put back on?
shootmymime
New member
Upper and lower intake, alt belt (like you've said) re connect various vac lines, (easy tho) and maybe a new intake manifold gasket. when installing the Sc toyota says to reuse the stock gasket in their instructions.
you can keep any fuel mods as you will never see boost. also you can keep the one way throttle check valve in place.
you may need a throttle cable bracket for that upper manifold. but that should be it.
Jahmiroquai
Member
Solid. You have a picture / part number of what the throttle cable bracket looks like? My truck had the SC installed when i bought it, so i'm not sure what an OEM one looks like.
shootmymime
New member
tons of pictures online for stock engine bays.
mcaz5
New member
Any ideas for removing a stuck tensioner bolt? (135mm) I stripped it, then stuck a larger socket in it and stripped it again lol :redbrick: I really don't wanna pay $260 for a new kit. The bolt/bracket is the only thing keeping me from moving the s/c to my truck. Thinking of emailing Magnuson, I know it's probably a long shot but worth a try.
4Reak Show
New member
Is it the Allen bolt? You can use a larger torx socket and and hammer it in. They grib well in that situation
mcaz5
New member
I've tried that as well. Bent and chipped the bits on the torx
4Reak Show
New member
Ok yeah now it's time to get creative. If you can get a small chisel in there to bite at 90° and hammer on it that can break it loose. And I imagine you've got penetrating oil on the back side/thread area? (NOT just WD-40 as that doesn't penetrate, it's only Water-Displacment)
You want to try and spin the bolt by hammering it perpendicular. Something like this:
Also wanted to add as a final straw you could just drill the head off the bolt with a 90° air drill
You want to try and spin the bolt by hammering it perpendicular. Something like this:
Also wanted to add as a final straw you could just drill the head off the bolt with a 90° air drill
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shootmymime
New member
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
No, that's why I hate driving it like a grandma... been a month since I put the smaller pulley on since this fiasco started. They FINALLY responded after I filed the BBB complaint, what do ya know... just needed a bit of coercion.
I'll say this now, if you've never replaced those belts before they are an absolute pain to do. The tensioning bolts are very difficult to get to. I had a shop do mine...
Jahmiroquai
Member
Oh yeah, I replaced them while I had everything apart. Not the most fun I've ever had.
Looks like the air surge to manifold mounting hardware is not the same as the SC to manifold mounting hardware. I'm trying to find a 3.4L diagram with part #'s
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Best bet might be to go to a junk yard and take off the intake/plenum of the same year (they vary over the years) with all hoses and clips attached, probably cheaper too.
