The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[lkhunter]

Drain and filling supercharger on vehicle. Any of you guys done in? If so what procedures did you use? I tried to jack the rear end off the gound so it would be at an angle so I could drain it out and nothing came out even at an angle. So I tried to suck it out with a syringe and no luck. Lastly I just used the syringe to force the new oil in which in return forced some of the oils oil out but I thing I'm not really doing it right. Maybe there is something you guys are doing that is working out better? I really don't want to remove the blower or pull the nose cone just to drain the oil.


On a side note what supercharger oils are you guys using?

It only takes about 15 minutes to pull the whole charger off, you'll want to do that and get the oil out so you don't overfill.

 

[digitalferg]

Looking for some install help...

What hose am I supposed to connect to this part on my supercharger? My truck is a 2003 Tacoma 4x4 with 5VZ-FE and I've been following the latest instructions that cover the later 5vz setups and I don't see any mention of what is supposed to connect to the port on this thing. In fact, in the instructions, some pics have this part, and then some dont. In the back pages of the instructions, it shows all the different hose routings and I don't see reference to this thing in any of those.

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[nor_cal51501]

[MENTION=85925]digitalferg[/MENTION]

That loops around and connects to the barb on the back of the supercharger almost directly below and to the right side or it(when looking at the back of the supercharger)
Picture taken from the top of the supercharger.
Hope that helps!!

 

[digitalferg]

Thanks man. I found that port and had been wondering. Thanks!

Now I have another unknown port... this one is on the top/back of the SC body where the throttle body attaches. It faces towards the rear of the truck. Where is this supposed to connect? Seems almost the spot for the IAC valve, but that one is connected to a port on the passenger side of my throttle body (it was connected there when I started and I never disconnected it....)

The mystery port is about dead center in this pic:

This is where my IAC hose (with the one-way valve) connects:

 

[nor_cal51501]

[MENTION=85925]digitalferg[/MENTION]

It's capped off. Nothing connected to it.

 

[shootmymime]

That's where I put my 4wd actuator hose


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[digitalferg]

Awesome. Just noticed that in the installation guide for the 2001+ 4Runner hose routing, which mine has been pretty much identical.

Thanks guys!

Now to fire it up....

 

[nor_cal51501]

Awesome. Just noticed that in the installation guide for the 2001+ 4Runner hose routing, which mine has been pretty much identical.

Thanks guys!

Now to fire it up....

Good luck!!! Let us know how it turns out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gamefreakgc]

Awesome. Just noticed that in the installation guide for the 2001+ 4Runner hose routing, which mine has been pretty much identical.

Thanks guys!

Now to fire it up....

Haha, that's the scary part. Hope it doesn't blow up.

Lol, just kidding. You'll be fine.

 

[digitalferg]

She lives! And she is a whiny biyatch! Pulls decently better than stock from my seat-of-the-pants gauge. [emoji14] Idle is not the greatest, but I know the computer needs to relearn a bit. Gonna give it a few days before I worry too much on it.

Also have new fuel filter, URD fuel pump, and a TRD 7th injector to all go in still but the truck has been down a few days and I needed to drive it!

 

[turbo8]

I got an email from URD the other day, thought I would relay the message.

URD has discovered a potential problem with our 7th Injector Kit for the TRD/Magnuson supercharger systems for the 3.4L V6 engines.

The kit includes a specially made vacuum T fitting that is used to bring a manifold/boost reference signal to the control unit. The T fitting has a restrictor molded into it to dampen the impeller pulses from the positive displacement supercharger.

We found some T fittings in the batch that were completely blocked off instead of just having a restriction. There is a chance that some of these Ts made it out to customers in kits. If your kit has a T that is completely blocked off it will not work correctly.

We encourage all customers to remove the vacuum line from the control unit and simply blow and suck on it. If it is completely blocked off you will not be able to. If it is correct, it should be hard to blow through it, but you will be able to.

If you find yours to be completely blocked off contact URD Tech Support by EMAIL ([email protected]) including your original order number and current shipping address stating, you have a T that is completely blocked off and URD will get a new one shipped out to you ASAP.

This should only involve a small number of kits shipped from URD since APRIL 2016.



Steve (Gadget) Dopler

 

[digitalferg]

Well damn, she threw some codes after a few miles on the big test drive this morning. Came up with P0300 (random multiple misfire) and p0171 (bank 1 system too lean). Bean reading and reading on both of these, but I haven't found anybody that's had both of these together. Is there a good troubleshoot flow chart or anything for the SC? I figured I'd start with checking for vacuum leaks, but, one thing I was thinking is I've noticed for a few months now that the truck did seem to have maybe just a little misfire type feel to it, so I'm thinking maybe not vacuum and maybe there is an underlying issue and the SC has now exacerbated the condition... Anyway, if anybody has some info on troubleshooting, I'd sure appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Well damn, she threw some codes after a few miles on the big test drive this morning. Came up with P0300 (random multiple misfire) and p0171 (bank 1 system too lean). Bean reading and reading on both of these, but I haven't found anybody that's had both of these together. Is there a good troubleshoot flow chart or anything for the SC? I figured I'd start with checking for vacuum leaks, but, one thing I was thinking is I've noticed for a few months now that the truck did seem to have maybe just a little misfire type feel to it, so I'm thinking maybe not vacuum and maybe there is an underlying issue and the SC has now exacerbated the condition... Anyway, if anybody has some info on troubleshooting, I'd sure appreciate it.

Thanks!

Pull your ECU relay & fuse under the hood and reset everything. That will also reset the fuel trims. Have a few questions though:

1. Did you change the spark plugs? If you have old plugs with too wide of gaps they might cause problems.

2. Check your plug wires too if you moved them at all. 1-4, 3-6, and 5-2.

3. P0171 might be just a temporary lean code. If it sticks around though, you most definitely have a vacuum leak. Check for it using this:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/9CPqbaSgcok" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[digitalferg]

Pull your ECU relay & fuse under the hood and reset everything. That will also reset the fuel trims. Have a few questions though:

1. Did you change the spark plugs? If you have old plugs with too wide of gaps they might cause problems.

2. Check your plug wires too if you moved them at all. 1-4, 3-6, and 5-2.

3. P0171 might be just a temporary lean code. If it sticks around though, you most definitely have a vacuum leak. Check for it using this:

Battery was disconnected for a few days while I did the install....was thinking that should have reset the computer...no?

Yes new spark plugs. IK22s from URD. Although I didn't check gap on them and just relied on the fact that they're supposed to be pre-gapped at .40... I did not do new wires.

Wires were only disconnected one at a time when I did each spark plug one at a time.

What about fuel filter and/or pump? Could those be cause? I have those to do still but wanted to just drive the truck for a bit before having to dive back in too deep...

I'll def run through and check for vac leaks that way. Thanks for the link to that vid.

 

[4Reak Show]

+1 for [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] and vacuum leak. I remember one SC-to-intake manifold bolt in the back was a bit tricky to fully tighten. I threw P0171 almost immediately and found that bolt only 3/4-1 turn off and that was enough. Also, the check valve for the throttle body hose is vital as well.

Good luck.

 

[digitalferg]

Yep. Leak around the intake gasket. Bolts are torqued to spec in FSM--13ft-lb. So I guess maybe bad gasket? I reused the one that was on it cause it didn't "look" bad... Gonna go grab a new one and throw it on and see how that goes.

 

[digitalferg]

And done. Just started it up after installing the new intake gasket. Thing is *purring* like a kitten right now. Sounds awesome. Gonna take her for a spin.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Yep. Leak around the intake gasket. Bolts are torqued to spec in FSM--13ft-lb. So I guess maybe bad gasket? I reused the one that was on it cause it didn't "look" bad... Gonna go grab a new one and throw it on and see how that goes.

That was the same area when I did mine. Except I put on a gasket upside down... lol... I was tired...

 

[digitalferg]

Oh man. Such a huge difference. Just drove it about 25 mins up a canyon highway and back and it felt just like it used to before the SC, but now with way more power. Heh. Motor is idling nice. ~750-800rpm in park, ~600 in gear. Feels so good. I think that was it guys! I'll post up again after a bit more driving.

One thing I am thinking, is that during the initial install, I maybe tightened down the drivers side SC support bracket down too tight before I torqued the SC bolts down to the head. This time I made sure to keep that bracket really loose until the SC was fully torqued. So, maybe was part gasket, part install error.

Thanks so much for all the help!

 

[Kurtis]

Kurtis here. Coming back from the dead. Sorta. Anyone know if you actually need the post cat O2 sensor hooked up so the engine will run correctly? I don't care about the CEL.