The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[4Reak Show]

I'm not sure about the connector issue, but I'm pretty certain bigger injectors won't be the solution for lean conditions. The ECM will see any extra fuel from those injectors (via 02/AFR sensor) and eventually scale them back to get the system back to where it wants it.

That's the whole point of the 02 simulator: to lie to the computer so extra fuel can be added.

 

[robb1887]

I'm not sure about the connector issue, but I'm pretty certain bigger injectors won't be the solution for lean conditions. The ECM will see any extra fuel from those injectors (via 02/AFR sensor) and eventually scale them back to get the system back to where it wants it.

That's the whole point of the 02 simulator: to lie to the computer so extra fuel can be added.

You don't want to "sim" your AFR O2 sensor, you want to skew it. Either with a URD 7th injector kit, or the AEM FIC-6. AEM requires an additional wideband O2 in the exhaust for tuning purposes, or at least the ability to read real time F/R outputs from the OBDII if that's an option.

But the general info here is correct, it's likely your computer is limiting your injectors over your injectors maxing out. So just slapping in larger injectors will not likely solve a running lean issue with a stock pulley.

 

[dogbreath650]

1st gen SC rebuilding recommendations

What are my best current options for sending a 1st gen (gray) SC out for a complete rebuild? I called Magnusson and they don't rebuild them anymore, apparently they can't get parts? I called superchargers and accessories in Lincoln CA and they said they will do a rebuild for $750. I didn't get into a discussion on what their rebuild consists of, figured I'd check here for other recommendations first.

Thanks...

 

[anniesball72]

Superchargers and accessories

What are my best current options for sending a 1st gen (gray) SC out for a complete rebuild? I called Magnusson and they don't rebuild them anymore, apparently they can't get parts? I called superchargers and accessories in Lincoln CA and they said they will do a rebuild for $750. I didn't get into a discussion on what their rebuild consists of, figured I'd check here for other recommendations first.

Thanks...

I had my first gen rebuilt by them and he did a terrific job. Went through the entire supercharger, coated the rotors, replaced all bearings, rebuilt the nose cone, checked the bypass valve, cleaned it and painted all the hardware. For the price you can't go wrong. I have about 5K on it now with no issues.

 

[White Stripe]

What are my best current options for sending a 1st gen (gray) SC out for a complete rebuild? I called Magnusson and they don't rebuild them anymore, apparently they can't get parts? I called superchargers and accessories in Lincoln CA and they said they will do a rebuild for $750. I didn't get into a discussion on what their rebuild consists of, figured I'd check here for other recommendations first.

Thanks...

Colorado Toyota Specialists 303-838-4772 will do a basic rebuild of replacing oil, bearings, and seals. They don't recoat the impellers. Typically impellers don't loose their coating but some do.

 

[russman]

URD 2.2 Pulley, & pulling timing

Anybody on here noticed that the URD 2.2 pulley makes the engine pull timing and lose power under full throttle applications?

I have the URD 7th injector kit installed, and was SUPER happy with the whole system for over a year. I have a 93Runner, and did a 3.4 swap with the charger +URD Kit (+a ton of other shit, with the help of a mega knowledgable buddy) and its been the best vehicle I've ever owned, or driven.

I recently threw on the 2.2 pulley, and re-tuned my piggyback computer with the help of said buddy. In theory, it should be getting plenty of fuel, right when it needs it.

However, despite it working very well about 80% of the time, I notice that under 3/4 to wide open throttle applications, that the engine is actually producing LESS power and torque, and only spinning super fast and loud. The best example of this is that particularly during freeway merging on an uphill angle at 3/4 to full throttle, that it just loses power and does this "hickuping" thing. Basically, the motor sounds like a sine or cosine wave.

As I've spent extensive time and energy getting this thing dialed to the max, I'm simply wondering how imperfect the whole air / fuel ratio and O2 sensors are at their jobs? And how those sensors interact with the OEM ECU, and how precisely the piggyback URD ECU reacts to input.

I mean, I understand that this is an aftermarket product for the 5VZ with the Supercharger and some glitches might be expected, but for it to actually perform WORSE even after tuning is quite interesting / annoying to me. It definitely causes the supercharger to spin up faster, harder and sooner, thus giving the perception of more power and torque. But that being said, the whole system seems to be less "dialed in", and produces these errors.

Thinking I'll throw the stock pulley back on there, and retune it to factory settings...

 

[Sears&Roebuck]

wow that is some hot looking stuff lol

 

[4Reak Show]

Anybody on here noticed that the URD 2.2 pulley makes the engine pull timing and lose power under full throttle applications?



I have the URD 7th injector kit installed, and was SUPER happy with the whole system for over a year. I have a 93Runner, and did a 3.4 swap with the charger +URD Kit (+a ton of other shit, with the help of a mega knowledgable buddy) and its been the best vehicle I've ever owned, or driven.



I recently threw on the 2.2 pulley, and re-tuned my piggyback computer with the help of said buddy. In theory, it should be getting plenty of fuel, right when it needs it.



However, despite it working very well about 80% of the time, I notice that under 3/4 to wide open throttle applications, that the engine is actually producing LESS power and torque, and only spinning super fast and loud. The best example of this is that particularly during freeway merging on an uphill angle at 3/4 to full throttle, that it just loses power and does this "hickuping" thing. Basically, the motor sounds like a sine or cosine wave.



As I've spent extensive time and energy getting this thing dialed to the max, I'm simply wondering how imperfect the whole air / fuel ratio and O2 sensors are at their jobs? And how those sensors interact with the OEM ECU, and how precisely the piggyback URD ECU reacts to input.



I mean, I understand that this is an aftermarket product for the 5VZ with the Supercharger and some glitches might be expected, but for it to actually perform WORSE even after tuning is quite interesting / annoying to me. It definitely causes the supercharger to spin up faster, harder and sooner, thus giving the perception of more power and torque. But that being said, the whole system seems to be less "dialed in", and produces these errors.



Thinking I'll throw the stock pulley back on there, and retune it to factory settings...

Sooooo I have the URD 7th but I do NOT have the smaller pulley so this will be just a guess as to what is happening for you:

The URD system works entirely based on vacuum/pressure for a specific RPM, period, as you know. So let's say at 5000 RPM your old pressure reading (with stock pulley) was 6.5 psi so your timing and fuel was being adjusted in that particular block or grid accordingly.

Now, at 5000 RPM's you have 9 psi or whatever right? That would put your timing and fuel into that block/grid now and the previous tune would be inaccurate. My thought would be to start over with base tune and go from there instead of tweaking your tried-and-true stock pulley adjustments.

Also don't underestimate all the settings like overpressure and all that jazz if you do decide to start over.

I'm curious, do you have an standalone air/fuel ratio gauge for your truck or how exactly are you adjusting your numbers? Likely, you're TOO rich at the higher ends. Mine dips down to low 10's sometimes and seems to lag more when it's that low. I think 11.8 is the sweet spot.

Good luck.

 

[Killer Squirrel]

Just got my 4R Friday and have been cleaning it up and going over everything.
Can someone tell me the part number for this vacuum hose elbow? I could only see the 2nd gen install guide and it doesn't show this (unless I just missed it). It's a large vacuum hose coming from what I think is the charcoal canister - the elbow on the end is dry rotted and cracked so I'm sure it's creating a big vacuum leak.

** EDIT **

Ok so I found what it was... not a Toyota part at all that I can tell, so no wonder I couldn't find it in any of the gen 1 manuals or install guides. This is what I found when I looked around at the local parts store:

 

[Fezzik]

Just picked up my 01 SC on Friday, ready to start tinkering and it looks like the 170 pages of this thread are going to be a good start

 

[CCr323]

New here so I apologize if I'm in the wrong thread but I have a 98 3.4l v6 with the 1st gen supercharger and am wanting to upgrade it to the 2.2 pulley. Does it really make a noticeable difference? I'm mostly wanting more low end/ mid range torque. Should I go smaller(2.1)? Also what else would I need to upgrade to accommodate putting on the smaller pulley? This is my daily driver btw. Thank you.

 

[gamefreakgc]

New here so I apologize if I'm in the wrong thread but I have a 98 3.4l v6 with the 1st gen supercharger and am wanting to upgrade it to the 2.2 pulley. Does it really make a noticeable difference? I'm mostly wanting more low end/ mid range torque. Should I go smaller(2.1)? Also what else would I need to upgrade to accommodate putting on the smaller pulley? This is my daily driver btw. Thank you.

This is the place to ask. I realize this thread has become too big to read, but here's the cliff notes version.

Seeing you are in Florida at sea level or close to it (like I am) the stock fuel system cannot support a smaller pulley without extra fuel. Most common ways to compensate is either the URD 7th Injector system or a water/methanol injection system. Cost really goes up though, even though the pulley is $100 the fuel systems range from $400-$800.

In order to tune it correctly though, you will also need to add a wideband oxygen sensor to see how much fuel is going in. That will cost around $150, the Uego sensor is one of the easiest and most reliable, which is what I have.

To be honest, the 2.1" pulley is what the supercharger should have been in the first place. If you are going to add fuel, might as well use the 2.1" since the 2.2" requires the same amount of fuel mods. You get a nice increase in power in the low and mid range RPMs. Great for towing or just going fast. I didn't notice as much power gains in the high end RPM's though, but I guess that's typical for a supercharger. I need a piggyback and a good tune to fix that since it leans out a bit on the high end.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Just got my 4R Friday and have been cleaning it up and going over everything.
Can someone tell me the part number for this vacuum hose elbow? I could only see the 2nd gen install guide and it doesn't show this (unless I just missed it). It's a large vacuum hose coming from what I think is the charcoal canister - the elbow on the end is dry rotted and cracked so I'm sure it's creating a big vacuum leak.




** EDIT **

Ok so I found what it was... not a Toyota part at all that I can tell, so no wonder I couldn't find it in any of the gen 1 manuals or install guides. This is what I found when I looked around at the local parts store:

Glad you found it, since I had no idea what that part was.

 

[CCr323]

This is the place to ask. I realize this thread has become too big to read, but here's the cliff notes version.

Seeing you are in Florida at sea level or close to it (like I am) the stock fuel system cannot support a smaller pulley without extra fuel. Most common ways to compensate is either the URD 7th Injector system or a water/methanol injection system. Cost really goes up though, even though the pulley is $100 the fuel systems range from $400-$800.

In order to tune it correctly though, you will also need to add a wideband oxygen sensor to see how much fuel is going in. That will cost around $150, the Uego sensor is one of the easiest and most reliable, which is what I have.

To be honest, the 2.1" pulley is what the supercharger should have been in the first place. If you are going to add fuel, might as well use the 2.1" since the 2.2" requires the same amount of fuel mods. You get a nice increase in power in the low and mid range RPMs. Great for towing or just going fast. I didn't notice as much power gains in the high end RPM's though, but I guess that's typical for a supercharger. I need a piggyback and a good tune to fix that since it leans out a bit on the high end.

Cool thanks a lot man. Really helped me understand it more than I've read before. I'm mostly just doing it to go fast haha I prefer more low end torque since I don't go on the highway much for work. Are there any other type of inexpensive but effective and not ghetto rigged upgrades I could make to get a little more power out my engine? I'm already planning to do a CAI.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Cool thanks a lot man. Really helped me understand it more than I've read before. I'm mostly just doing it to go fast haha I prefer more low end torque since I don't go on the highway much for work. Are there any other type of inexpensive but effective and not ghetto rigged upgrades I could make to get a little more power out my engine? I'm already planning to do a CAI.

Yeah, there's a couple that help but nothing huge. Cold air intakes are not bad, or you can just buy an Airaid tube to reduce the intake drag and add a deckplate to allow more air in. This gets the same result as a full-blown CAI like from K&N or similar, with less $$$ involved. There's dyno charts out there to compare on Gadget's site.

A new exhaust system also helps, but not a ton since the piping is pretty big already. That can get pricey too.

Seeing you have a 98 as well, have you noticed how big and restrictive our MAF sensors are? I switched mine out with one from a 99-02 which is much, much smaller. Only have to move one wire terminal, I can get you a link that shows how to do it. Also helps get more air in faster. Granted, if you get a CAI this may not matter, but that MAF is so huge.

That's all I have experience with so far, the other options left get expensive pretty quick. Next on my list is headers, but the only smog legal ones I can get are $700 Not sure if I'll do it or not.

 

[Killer Squirrel]

I have done searches and found references that the static tensioner is interchangeable with the newer dynamic tensioner, but I am not clear if it requires more hardware or not. I have the bracket that fits on the front of the engine and the static tensioner; if I wanted to go dynamic would I just need the tensioner w/pulley itself, or have to get new mounting hardware as well?

 

[robb1887]

I have done searches and found references that the static tensioner is interchangeable with the newer dynamic tensioner, but I am not clear if it requires more hardware or not. I have the bracket that fits on the front of the engine and the static tensioner; if I wanted to go dynamic would I just need the tensioner w/pulley itself, or have to get new mounting hardware as well?

I'm doing this same thing. I bought the whole kit PN as I read that the hardware is impossible to find otherwise as one of the bolts is weird. I believe you have to trim the plate as well to remove the static pulley if you plan to use it to support the nose cone.

 

[Killer Squirrel]

I'm doing this same thing. I bought the whole kit PN as I read that the hardware is impossible to find otherwise as one of the bolts is weird. I believe you have to trim the plate as well to remove the static pulley if you plan to use it to support the nose cone.

So it's not just a matter of pulling the static pulley and installing the dynamic tensioner :S When you say whole kit what are you referring to? What all does it come with? With said kit are you just completely removing the old plate? Thanks in advance, I may have to wait a bit if it's having to buy a lot of parts ($$) since my static pulley is still ok, I just wanted to rule out future problems by using the dynamic.

 

[robb1887]

TRD PN: PTR29-60032

TRD DYNAMIC TENSIONER 3.4 SC PTR29-60032

Has the bracket you need and the hardware.

The tensioner alone does you no good.

The plate I cut the idler off of to see if I want to use it to still support the nose cone if I feel it's necessary, if I get everything installed and the plate looks to not be needed I'll likely throw it on the scrap metal shelf for future use.

 

[Killer Squirrel]

$342 now for the kit? That's insane, I sure wish there was some other way to get this, especially since the tensioner and pulley can be found for under $50 total. I can't justify paying that until I absolutely need it. Thanks for the info though.