The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[poopypants]

double check that bolt...

It's the right length and thread pitch, but it's a large 13mm hex head and it won't be able to seat in the milled landing on the first gen SC as there are contoured ridges all around the area it would seat.... Same story with the only other "close" option I could find, a 12mm hex head with an even larger flange sticking out...


Soooo....

I contacted Magnuson told em the bolt I was missing for my installation and they have me a part# (PTR29-60031) which got no hits through local posts stores and was only available in a qty. of 50 per bag...

Called em one more time,, explained that I could only find it in bulk and if there's any way to just get one from them directly... He said sure 13 bucks plus shipping!

Sold!

LoL. Not letting one high priced bolt keep me from completing my rebuild and install!

Got it in!

 

[BXPhoto]

Does the newer magnuson bolt up and run safely with out a tune like the OG TRD setup?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Does the newer magnuson bolt up and run safely with out a tune like the OG TRD setup?

Yes. Magnuson was the manufacturer for the TRD supercharger, the only difference is that they removed the TRD logo. No joke.

 

[Mr. T]

I used the AC Delco supercharger oil, most aftermarket rebuild kits use it as well. It's a light weight but good heat resistance, works perfect. If I remember it comes in 4 oz. bottles, just pick up two. I vaguely remember 1 was not enough.

Since you have the charger off, remove plug, drain oil, replace oil. Done. Nothing else is needed since it was already rebuilt.

I believe the supercharger takes 4 ounces of oil. I always put one bottle in mine when I change it.

Thanks guys. I will get a couple bottles of the AC Delco oil.

 

[kigmob]

Hey guys got a quick question regarding timing. I've had my SC for a while now and have done some tuning here and there. I have my timing map in the URD software set up for essentially no ping. I have been watching the timing advance on my scan gauge closely for the past few months. I noticed when I get on the gas (not WOT) and increase in rpms, the timing advance drops as it should. Usually around 16-18 degrees. When I get into low-mid boost my timing drops to nearly 10 degrees on the scan gauge. Now when I factor how much timing I am pulling at this rpm and boost in the URD software, I'm actually probably at like 5 degrees timing advance. No way I can be making much power with that much timing being pulled.

So my question is: What does your timing look like on a scan tool while driving? Dropping to 10 degrees advanced seems kind of low in the first place. Then factoring in my tune makes it even more. Trying to figure out if the ecu pulling that much timing is normal or not. So just wanted to see what you guys typically see regarding timing advanced in boost and what not.

 

[4Reak Show]

Hey guys got a quick question regarding timing. I've had my SC for a while now and have done some tuning here and there. I have my timing map in the URD software set up for essentially no ping. I have been watching the timing advance on my scan gauge closely for the past few months. I noticed when I get on the gas (not WOT) and increase in rpms, the timing advance drops as it should. Usually around 16-18 degrees. When I get into low-mid boost my timing drops to nearly 10 degrees on the scan gauge. Now when I factor how much timing I am pulling at this rpm and boost in the URD software, I'm actually probably at like 5 degrees timing advance. No way I can be making much power with that much timing being pulled.

So my question is: What does your timing look like on a scan tool while driving? Dropping to 10 degrees advanced seems kind of low in the first place. Then factoring in my tune makes it even more. Trying to figure out if the ecu pulling that much timing is normal or not. So just wanted to see what you guys typically see regarding timing advanced in boost and what not.

I cannot be certain of my particular numbers, as I just added to the values in the URD software until ping went away to avoid damage. That's as far as I've gone on the timing half.

I'm not 100%, but do the actual numbers in the cells equate to the amount of degrees? I'm curious as to how you know you're down to 5.

Also, to my knowledge the main ECU will not change timing from knock sensor feedback below 3000 rpm. It ignores it. That's why timing generally needs to be altered below 3000. So, what RPMs are you seeing this 10? If it's 2-3K rpm then that's just the computer being normal I would think. Does that make sense?

There's also a setting to change when the URD unit kicks on in general. For rpm, vacuum/pressure or both. I've played with mine and I want changes to occur at anything over 1 psi, since that's above what an engine alone can generate, and would therefore be out of range for the main ECU to handle.




I probably didn't answer your question, but it's Friday, I'm tired and there's a beer in my hand.

If I get time at some point I'll do my best to analyze my overall timing. But I need to know at what rpm and at what psi. Those are the 2 factors that control when URD makes changes.

 

[MTD]

Hey guys got a quick question regarding timing. I've had my SC for a while now and have done some tuning here and there. I have my timing map in the URD software set up for essentially no ping. I have been watching the timing advance on my scan gauge closely for the past few months. I noticed when I get on the gas (not WOT) and increase in rpms, the timing advance drops as it should. Usually around 16-18 degrees. When I get into low-mid boost my timing drops to nearly 10 degrees on the scan gauge. Now when I factor how much timing I am pulling at this rpm and boost in the URD software, I'm actually probably at like 5 degrees timing advance. No way I can be making much power with that much timing being pulled.

So my question is: What does your timing look like on a scan tool while driving? Dropping to 10 degrees advanced seems kind of low in the first place. Then factoring in my tune makes it even more. Trying to figure out if the ecu pulling that much timing is normal or not. So just wanted to see what you guys typically see regarding timing advanced in boost and what not.

You're timing advance shown by your scan gauge cannot indicate the amout of timing your ecu is being "tricked" into pulling by a piggy back.

Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk

 

[kigmob]

You're timing advance shown by your scan gauge cannot indicate the amout of timing your ecu is being "tricked" into pulling by a piggy back.

Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk

Your right it can't. But if you look at what the scan tool is indicating and see roughly what rpm and boost you are at, you can figure it out if you have an idea how much retard is dialed in in the URD map at this boost and rpm. Then you subtract that from what the scan tool is indicating. So you can figure it out if you need to.

 

[kigmob]

I cannot be certain of my particular numbers, as I just added to the values in the URD software until ping went away to avoid damage. That's as far as I've gone on the timing half.

I'm not 100%, but do the actual numbers in the cells equate to the amount of degrees? I'm curious as to how you know you're down to 5.

Also, to my knowledge the main ECU will not change timing from knock sensor feedback below 3000 rpm. It ignores it. That's why timing generally needs to be altered below 3000. So, what RPMs are you seeing this 10? If it's 2-3K rpm then that's just the computer being normal I would think. Does that make sense?

There's also a setting to change when the URD unit kicks on in general. For rpm, vacuum/pressure or both. I've played with mine and I want changes to occur at anything over 1 psi, since that's above what an engine alone can generate, and would therefore be out of range for the main ECU to handle.




I probably didn't answer your question, but it's Friday, I'm tired and there's a beer in my hand.

If I get time at some point I'll do my best to analyze my overall timing. But I need to know at what rpm and at what psi. Those are the 2 factors that control when URD makes changes.

Yea I have the setting set to 1 psi as well, but this is for closed loop enrichment.

Based on gadgets u tune guide, the number in the cell does equate to degrees.

I'm am seeing this above 3K rpm. I usually try to not boost too much below this rpm to avoid knocking as it can still happen here and there even with my current map. I'd rather drive around it than keep pulling timing to make sure it doesn't knock ever. This would likely take a lot of timing to be pulled and would result in a noticeable loss in power.

 

[4Reak Show]

Yea I have the setting set to 1 psi as well, but this is for closed loop enrichment.



Based on gadgets u tune guide, the number in the cell does equate to degrees.



I'm am seeing this above 3K rpm. I usually try to not boost too much below this rpm to avoid knocking as it can still happen here and there even with my current map. I'd rather drive around it than keep pulling timing to make sure it doesn't knock ever. This would likely take a lot of timing to be pulled and would result in a noticeable loss in power.

Ahhhh ok I see. That clarifies it for me.

When I did mine last year I tried to balance it by adding fuel AND adding retard step by step to remove knock since added fuel will also help to cool the compression charge and therefore remove knock. So I didn't notice a dramatic decrease in power in the lower RPMs but also I'm not expecting this thing to be a rocket. I like how mine drives so I stopped messing with it.

Again, this doesn't really help with your initial question so all I can assume is that you're probably normal. The ECM is going to do what it can, and if your not getting ping, I wouldn't be too concerned. Squeezing every HP out of these is a delicate dance and I've just learned to accept that enough is enough at some point. If it helps, here are my maps for you to compare. I have a manual and with 4.88 gears so that might make a difference in feel too.

Map A (which should be timing if I remember)

Map B, fuel. Notice how I added a bunch of fuel in the lower end as well. AFR's are about 10.8~11.8 throughout my boosted rpm range. Probably a little richer than it should be, but a cat is cheaper than a motor, and I'm also a pretty conservative driver

Bottom line is, if you had to pull the extra 5° out to stop a ping, then that's where it's going to be. Playing it safe is just a better move in my opinion.

 

[kigmob]

Ahhhh ok I see. That clarifies it for me.

When I did mine last year I tried to balance it by adding fuel AND adding retard step by step to remove knock since added fuel will also help to cool the compression charge and therefore remove knock. So I didn't notice a dramatic decrease in power in the lower RPMs but also I'm not expecting this thing to be a rocket. I like how mine drives so I stopped messing with it.

Again, this doesn't really help with your initial question so all I can assume is that you're probably normal. The ECM is going to do what it can, and if your not getting ping, I wouldn't be too concerned. Squeezing every HP out of these is a delicate dance and I've just learned to accept that enough is enough at some point. If it helps, here are my maps for you to compare. I have a manual and with 4.88 gears so that might make a difference in feel too.

Map A (which should be timing if I remember)

Map B, fuel. Notice how I added a bunch of fuel in the lower end as well. AFR's are about 10.8~11.8 throughout my boosted rpm range. Probably a little richer than it should be, but a cat is cheaper than a motor, and I'm also a pretty conservative driver

Bottom line is, if you had to pull the extra 5° out to stop a ping, then that's where it's going to be. Playing it safe is just a better move in my opinion.

Thanks for the pics for comparison. Only difference is I notice I have to pull a lot more timing than you at the 2500-3k rpm rows starting at like -2 inhg. This is where I ping the most even before boost which I why I have to start pulling 2-3 degrees at like -2 inhg.

I'm happy with it how it is but was just getting bored with it and was wondering if I can fine tune it in some in the areas I find I am pulling a lot of timing. Also wanted to check with others to see how advanced other ECMs run the timing.

I don't add fuel until like 3k rpms and 4 psi (I believe I kept the fuel map exactly how it came from URD). The closed loop enrichment (over pressure setting) starting at 1 psi boost seems to keep my afr low enough at low boost without having to add fuel with the 7th.

With your closed loop enrichment set at 1 psi and having the 7th injector starting to fire at 0 psi, how rich is your afr at low boost? I'd imagine it would be pretty rich. If you find this works well I may try this with my fuel map to see how it affects my timing map.

Thanks for the input.

 

[4Reak Show]

With your closed loop enrichment set at 1 psi and having the 7th injector starting to fire at 0 psi, how rich is your afr at low boost? I'd imagine it would be pretty rich. If you find this works well I may try this with my fuel map to see how it affects my timing map.



Thanks for the input.

Yeah I'm probably richer than it should be at lower boost levels. Normally floating around 12~12.8 when I'm at like 2-3 psi or so. Sometimes lower. I've read the sweet spot for max power is 11.8 but I don't know if that's supposed to be across the board, all rpm and all boost levels, or only WOT. I shot for that number at ANY time I'm above 0 psi. It's tough tho since things like air temperature and humidity can drastically change it. again, it's generally safer for the ENGINE to be rich. Sure the catalytic converter isn't going to last as long, but those are a couple hundred to buy and have welded in for mine.

I can definately tell you that if I go on a heavily boosted drive the exhaust is rather pungent...Dollar bills out the tail pipe...

 

[Makitso]

saw this on craigslist and thought I'd pass it on -

New TRD Supercharger System - $1800 (Santa Fe/ABQ)

https://santafe.craigslist.org/pts/6254054025.html

 

[pygmy warrior]

I got my wideband A/F gauge yesterday but I am not sure which wires to tap into for switched power and the wire for the dimmer. This is for my 2001 Tacoma. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[4Reak Show]

I got my wideband A/F gauge yesterday but I am not sure which wires to tap into for switched power and the wire for the dimmer. This is for my 2001 Tacoma. Any help would be appreciated.

Grn/red is illumination power, wht/grn is ground path that gets dimmed. My gauge had to be set up on a laptop to tell it which side (power or ground) gets resisted.

I used this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001...g_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WNC8SGCH7ZAGS2J2421P

Use the fuse like "gauge" or find one that's power on with the key.

Good luck

 

[pygmy warrior]

I like the add a circuit fuse holder! Thanks for the help 4reak!!
Also, I bought the lotek gauge pod for the a-pillar. Is there enough room to run the wire between the pillar and the dash without having to remove the dash?

 

[4Reak Show]

I like the add a circuit fuse holder! Thanks for the help 4reak!!

Also, I bought the lotek gauge pod for the a-pillar. Is there enough room to run the wire between the pillar and the dash without having to remove the dash?

The cool thing about the add a circuit is you don't need an empty slot. You put it in place of an existing fuse, put the existing fuse in the non-wired slot, and then put another fuse for the new gauge into the one with the wire. Then run the wire for the new gauge's power.

As far as fitment, I cant be 100% as I have a 2nd gen 4Runner but it should be able to sneak down after taking the a-pillar plastic off. Use a coat hanger and tape to fish it up and under. It can be frustrating but it is doable.

 

[pygmy warrior]

Thank Bro! I will be ordering the sc in a few weeks but I wanted to get these gauges installed first. I am sure I will have more questions when the time comes.

 

[Lagrange]

New SC

I've put a new SC from Magnuson 3 weeks ago on my 98 V6 SR5 manuel. Bolt on kit with all waths needed include. No other modification except for my magnaflow exhaust.
The truck is running great and after putting my boost gauge in yesterday, i'm happy to see that at my top I boost at 7 psi. :rockon:

Thanks to all of you guys who commented on this thread. I had a lots of good infos. :thanks:

 

[3rd3rdGen]

Realize this isn't the classifieds but since this thread is about supercharger it seemed like a logical place to mention that if anyone ever wants to sell one I'd be interested in picking it up. Had one on my old 3rd gen and miss that extra power!