The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[LiquidFlame]

Unfortunately that's what I also read about the pulleys. Someone fixed that issue by finding a washer of the same size and cutting a notch in it to fit the key.

If you supercharger sounds like this, it's normal. It should clatter at idle a bit and then smooth out under acceleration.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyEH37LEs3Y

If there's a problem with the coupler/bearings, it sounds more like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17GSC0cKq14

I wish it sounded like the first video... It almost sounds like a bolt is loose and vibrating, but I checked everything. I took the belt off and started the car and its quiet, so I know its coming from the SC.
So the 2 shaft bearings are brand new (installed 10/2), the coupler and rear rotor bearings are about 6 months old. Nothing inside showed signs of metal/metal contact, oil was free of shavings. The housing was scored up but nothing seemed new/worse from when I rebuilt 6 months ago. Coating on the rotors is still there too.

Heres a video of the noise. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_B18-wd_FU0
I know its dark, but its more for the sound. Im about ready to say f*** it and buy a stock intake manifold so I can have my car back. I don't have an extra vehicle to get around.

 

[lhsoulrebel]

I wish it sounded like the first video... It almost sounds like a bolt is loose and vibrating, but I checked everything. I took the belt off and started the car and its quiet, so I know its coming from the SC.
So the 2 shaft bearings are brand new (installed 10/2), the coupler and rear rotor bearings are about 6 months old. Nothing inside showed signs of metal/metal contact, oil was free of shavings. The housing was scored up but nothing seemed new/worse from when I rebuilt 6 months ago. Coating on the rotors is still there too.

Heres a video of the noise. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_B18-wd_FU0
I know its dark, but its more for the sound. Im about ready to say f*** it and buy a stock intake manifold so I can have my car back. I don't have an extra vehicle to get around.

Sounds just like mine did. The pulley still isn't seated right. The pulley shaft itself can get egged out as well. In which case you need a new shaft. Mine was ok, but barely with in tolerance. I used a bit of jb weld to seat the pulley slot and the woodruff key. 5k so far... no knocking. The thing to remember is that the super charger is spinning at very high rpms, so if anything is off it will deteriate quickly. That new pulley you got is probably already trashed. The pulley should seat firmly on the shaft with no play. The nut may need to be chamfered more so it can properly torque back enough on the pulley. And no the pulley should not hit the housing. Try a slightly larger woodruff key. Once installed before you put the belt on turn it by hand back and forth. Should be very smooth, no slack, and bearing should provide very little resistance. Good luck, hope this helps!

 

[LiquidFlame]

Sounds just like mine did. The pulley still isn't seated right. The pulley shaft itself can get egged out as well. In which case you need a new shaft. Mine was ok, but barely with in tolerance. I used a bit of jb weld to seat the pulley slot and the woodruff key. 5k so far... no knocking. The thing to remember is that the super charger is spinning at very high rpms, so if anything is off it will deteriate quickly. That new pulley you got is probably already trashed. The pulley should seat firmly on the shaft with no play. The nut may need to be chamfered more so it can properly torque back enough on the pulley. And no the pulley should not hit the housing. Try a slightly larger woodruff key. Once installed before you put the belt on turn it by hand back and forth. Should be very smooth, no slack, and bearing should provide very little resistance. Good luck, hope this helps!

So when I push the pulley on through the key without the nut, I can rotate it just slightly. The shaft is still round (checked with my calipers) but maybe its just too small? It doesn't seem scratched or anything. The new pulley is anodized, and theres no missing color on the ID. If I get a bigger key, it won't fit in the groove on the shaft.
I can rotate everything with the pulley on by hand with no resistance and no noise.

 

[Bijan]

Parts list:
-1 6303 Nachi Bearing Open C3 - 6303 Nachi Bearing Open C3 Japan 17x47x14
-1 6204 Nachi Bearing Open C3 - 6204 Nachi Bearing Open C3 Japan 20x47x14
-2 6203 Nachi Bearing Open C3 - 6203 Nachi Bearing 17x40x12 Open C3
-2 Rear Needle Bearings (Purchased these from Rolling Performance, part number on box is F-65477.1 or 6002544) - These are currently on back order from most places but can be found on ebay or random parts suppliers. I got mine from here: Eaton M90 Supercharger Needle Bearings FC-65477.01 and they can also be found on ebay: Single seal cup bearing is a dimensional replacement for INA F390978 & FC65477 | eBay
-1 Supercharger Coupler - Don't use the cheap ebay ones, but go with rolling performance or the like: Rolling Performance
-1 Viton Nose Seal (Rolling Performance) -http://www.rollingperformance.com/scoil.htm
-2 4oz Bottles of AC Delco Supercharger Oil - Either Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Fluid...414611916&sr=8-1&keywords=gm+supercharger+oil or rolling performance: Rolling Performance
-2 Rotor Pack Seals Jon Bond Performance, they are expensive https://jonbondperformance.com/index...646vvseh0c2e37 or I found some at Spinning Wheels SC. SpinningWheels-SC - > Superchargers & More They don't list them on their site, but call and ask, they are extremely nice and helpful. Even threw in a free nose cone seal when I ordered.
- 1 Tube of Permatex Red Gasket Maker - Rolling Performance or http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-5181...612195&sr=8-1&keywords=anaerobic+gasket+maker

List courtesy of [MENTION=58096]chris360hawks[/MENTION]

@chris360hawks

Is this the list for a 1st gen grey top SC?

 

[gamefreakgc]

So when I push the pulley on through the key without the nut, I can rotate it just slightly. The shaft is still round (checked with my calipers) but maybe its just too small? It doesn't seem scratched or anything. The new pulley is anodized, and theres no missing color on the ID. If I get a bigger key, it won't fit in the groove on the shaft.
I can rotate everything with the pulley on by hand with no resistance and no noise.

If it's the shaft, there is a nose cone replacement kit out there. That's how I rebuilt mine, the rear needle bearings were good but the front bearing were very noisy, more like a diesel than the clanging you have. The nose cone kit replaces the entire cone, so it's got a new shaft, pulley, everything.

DON'T buy the super overpriced TRD ones, they stopped making them when TRD discontinued the product. Contact Magnussen and see if they can ship one much cheaper.

I paid $200 for mine second hand 3 years ago, for comparison. So you can expect paying $300-$400 I would figure.

Also, if you do plan on ditching it altogether, post up on here and someone will buy it.

 

[LiquidFlame]

Ended up pulling it off today. Found a stock intake plenum for $60 on Craigslist and threw it on. Unfortunately life demands a car right now.
May end up selling the sc, may not. Sad times for my car today...

 

[4Reak Show]

Ended up pulling it off today. Found a stock intake plenum for $60 on Craigslist and threw it on. Unfortunately life demands a car right now.
May end up selling the sc, may not. Sad times for my car today...

Dude. Totally weak.... Really sucks but if you sell toss a number up here. We'd help you out.

Good luck

4Reak-

 

[lhsoulrebel]

Ended up pulling it off today. Found a stock intake plenum for $60 on Craigslist and threw it on. Unfortunately life demands a car right now.
May end up selling the sc, may not. Sad times for my car today...

Sorry to hear it! If there is a machinist near you, take it to him and see what he thinks about the tolerance. They may be able to file a bigger key down, or it may be just fine the way it is. If it's off an aluminum pulley will get chewed up pretty quick. I know it's frustrating, I've been there, with the sc off you have given yourself time to figure it out. Once up and running correctly they are very reliable! Good luck!

 

[Dalandser]

Glad I found this thread - I've seen a few used sc's come up, but nothing that would save me some good money.

Quick question: What is the purpose of the coating on the impellers? I saw one thread where a guy used paint stripper to remove it. I figure it has a unique purpose since rebuilds include recoating them when needed.

Edit: Found my answer:

http://www.thehighspeedlab.com/eaton-rotor-coating.html

Still looking for a good deal though. PM me if you have one / know of one please. Working a lot and barely have enough time to keep up on Tacomaworld lol

 

[LiquidFlame]

Yeah Im pretty bummed, but it is what it is. Honestly, my commute is 1.5 miles to school, and 2 miles to work, so the performance difference isn't huge to me. Which is the reason I'm considering selling. Even considering buying a bike to keep miles off the rig, finding one under 200k is starting to get pretty rare these days.

Dalandser I sent you a PM about it. I even saw a nose cone on eBay for $250.
If anyone else might be interesting in buying, feel free to PM me. Im not 100% on selling, but money talks... Located in Tempe, but also make trips back home to Orange County.

 

[SIKHILUXSURF]

Hey guys need some help diagnosing this sound that popped up over the weekend. Is my nose cone going bad? Is it time to replace the bearings and accociated parts?

https://youtu.be/llRGUCV4jn4

 

[LiquidFlame]

Hey guys need some help diagnosing this sound that popped up over the weekend. Is my nose cone going bad? Is it time to replace the bearings and accociated parts?

https://youtu.be/llRGUCV4jn4

I feel like I'm becoming the 2nd Gen noise expert lately...
Take the belt off and turn the pulley by hand. If if grinds when it turns, bearings. Or if you turn it quickly by hand and stop quickly, if there's slop in the rotation, coupler is going bad. Check oil level too, could be losing some oil and makes it loud.
Doesnt sound too bad to me, but check those and let us know.

 

[SIKHILUXSURF]

I feel like I'm becoming the 2nd Gen noise expert lately...
Take the belt off and turn the pulley by hand. If if grinds when it turns, bearings. Or if you turn it quickly by hand and stop quickly, if there's slop in the rotation, coupler is going bad. Check oil level too, could be losing some oil and makes it loud.
Doesnt sound too bad to me, but check those and let us know.

thanks, i added 1.5oz to the nose cone this morning but the noise is still there.is overfilling the nose cone bad? im used to filling it like a rear differential just enought until it slightly seeps out the fill hole. so i suspect a coupler since i pulled the blower off a week ago to redo seals on my injectors that were leaking. i will pull the belt off and try it again tonight and report back.

 

[SIKHILUXSURF]

So uhm this isn't right....

Slop in the nose cone upon turning it. So I would say it's the coupler?
https://youtu.be/vO2DXYVKYTE

But I also noticed this... and the noise is getting a. It louder.

https://youtu.be/fE2AzWNCHHI

 

[LiquidFlame]

So uhm this isn't right....

Slop in the nose cone upon turning it. So I would say it's the coupler?
https://youtu.be/vO2DXYVKYTE

But I also noticed this... and the noise is getting a. It louder.

https://youtu.be/fE2AzWNCHHI

So the pulley is loose on the shaft? If so, try tightening the nut and see if that helps. If it doesn't, take the pulley off and inspect the ID of it to see if the keyway is messed up (thats what happened to mine).
If everything seems okay on that end, I would venture to say its a coupler. Any idea how long its been since the last rebuild?

 

[SIKHILUXSURF]

So the pulley is loose on the shaft? If so, try tightening the nut and see if that helps. If it doesn't, take the pulley off and inspect the ID of it to see if the keyway is messed up (thats what happened to mine).
If everything seems okay on that end, I would venture to say its a coupler. Any idea how long its been since the last rebuild?

tried to tighten in but it is already tight. i am afraid to use an impact gun on the nose cone. as far as the blower it only has 60k on it. i bought it unused so when i recived it it had 0 miles on it.

 

[poopypants]

So uhm this isn't right....

Slop in the nose cone upon turning it. So I would say it's the coupler?
https://youtu.be/vO2DXYVKYTE

But I also noticed this... and the noise is getting a. It louder.

https://youtu.be/fE2AzWNCHHI

Definitely needs a new coupler. Also could use a new pulley it looks like...

I'd take the nut OFF inspect the pulley for wear, which it undoubtedly has, cause I had to use a puller to even get my stock one off...

Maybe try reinstalling the pulley again after and see if you can get it to reseat without moving... But I'd deff look into replacing it along with an oil change and new coupler.

 

[gamefreakgc]

thanks, i added 1.5oz to the nose cone this morning but the noise is still there.is overfilling the nose cone bad? im used to filling it like a rear differential just enought until it slightly seeps out the fill hole. so i suspect a coupler since i pulled the blower off a week ago to redo seals on my injectors that were leaking. i will pull the belt off and try it again tonight and report back.

That's how you fill it, you did it right. Otherwise there's no way to tell how much oil is still in there.

 

[SIKHILUXSURF]

okay so i called dealer to see price on a nose cone... i literally fell on my ass after they gave me a price 1200 msrp and 821 my cost. so i called the source. cost from magnuson. $275.00 for nose cone $66.00 for pulley. i would much rather pay that and spend the left over to but rebuild parts and salvage this nose cone as a spare.

 

[gamefreakgc]

okay so i called dealer to see price on a nose cone... i literally fell on my ass after they gave me a price 1200 msrp and 821 my cost. so i called the source. cost from magnuson. $275.00 for nose cone $66.00 for pulley. i would much rather pay that and spend the left over to but rebuild parts and salvage this nose cone as a spare.

That's a good price for a new nose cone. I'd jump on that. I got one off a forum member but unused, but was unlucky and the seal leaked. I paid $200 I think.