The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[4Reak Show]

Okay guys, these are the codes that it's throwing:

C1201 - Engine Communication Circuit
C1223 - (ABS control system Malfunction) Replacing with a new brake switch
C1249 - (Stop Lamp Switch Circuit) Replacing with a new brake switch
P0171 - Bank 1 System Too Lean
P0325 -Knock Sensor 1 Circuit (Bank 1)
P0330 - Knock Sensor 2 Circuit (Bank 2)

Should I start with replacing the knock sensors?

Wires are likely disconnected from knock sensors. Both to go out at the same time you had the SC installed is too coincidental. Look right behind the timing cover plastic on the top front of engine. I think that's where the connector is for them.

P0171 is most likely an intake leak. My guess is the supercharger mounting bolt in back isn't fully tightened. Or a hose is off.

 

[phattyduck]

Wires are likely disconnected from knock sensors. Both to go out at the same time you had the SC installed is too coincidental. Look right behind the timing cover plastic on the top front of engine. I think that's where the connector is for them.

P0171 is most likely an intake leak. My guess is the supercharger mounting bolt in back isn't fully tightened. Or a hose is off.

Any way that could be a two birds with one stone issue and the knock sensor wires got pinched in the intake runners on install?

-Charlie

 

[4Reak Show]

Any way that could be a two birds with one stone issue and the knock sensor wires got pinched in the intake runners on install?



-Charlie

A phenomenal proposition. And another likely candidate in my opinion. Certainly worth a gander. These engines supercharged aren't dogs.

 

[gamefreakgc]

So wait, you installed a supercharger with a check engine light on? Well...

You could take it back to the shop and let them know what went wrong, but if it was installed with the light already on I doubt they will help.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Last week I started a post for a "Flashing CEL with a P0300 and P0303" code. You can find the thread here.

I haven't put it back together yet, but I believe it has something to do with the IK22 plugs. I only have 15K on them but I'm pretty sure I gapped them to Toyota spec (with a wire gapper of course). After doing some additional research, I think perhaps its better to install them directly from the box already pre-gapped. I haven't checked this AM but Believe I read its .032.

Just looking for any insight if you have any experience with the codes and if there's any correlation to the plugs. Please read my thread first before suggesting things I should look at. Thanks!!

BTW - Engine is running fine, with no noticeable mis-fire.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Just wanted to close up my previous post. I did replace the plugs with the IK22's only because I couldn't find where anyone had any measured success with any other plugs.

However, because of the large gap I had experienced after 15K, I decided to keep the"out-of-the-box" gap and install as is. I also replaced the three coils but do believe it was the plugs causing the misfire.

If you want to see my "numbers" etc and steps I took, it's in the "Flashing CEL, P0300 and P0303" thread.

So far the rig is running fine without any codes.

 

[T4RKoopa]

Update: Technician claimed that the knock sensors/wiring harness were not touched and they are actually under the bottom portion of the intake manifold. Which makes sense according to schematic as that was not disassembled for the SC. He's now giving me a few possible remedies. MAF needs to be cleaned (will be taken care of), replacing 02 sensor and possibly fuel pump. Is it possible that s/c install damaged the 02 or knock sensor?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Update: Technician claimed that the knock sensors/wiring harness were not touched and they are actually under the bottom portion of the intake manifold. Which makes sense according to schematic as that was not disassembled for the SC. He's now giving me a few possible remedies. MAF needs to be cleaned (will be taken care of), replacing 02 sensor and possibly fuel pump. Is it possible that s/c install damaged the 02 or knock sensor?

No on the O2 sensor. There's absolutely no correlation there. And the fuel pumps on these 4Runners are as reliable as the engines, they do not fail.

Now it's possible your O2 sensor was on its way out but when it does it throws a separate code for the O2 sensor heater circuit in most cases. On the 2nd Gens Toyota gave the O2 sensors a 90k mile lifespan, so you might be due for a new front sensor anyway.

Go ahead and clean the MAF but don't go dropping your fuel tank, it would be a waste of time.

 

[poopypants]

Update: Technician claimed that the knock sensors/wiring harness were not touched and they are actually under the bottom portion of the intake manifold. Which makes sense according to schematic as that was not disassembled for the SC. He's now giving me a few possible remedies. MAF needs to be cleaned (will be taken care of), replacing 02 sensor and possibly fuel pump. Is it possible that s/c install damaged the 02 or knock sensor?

This is why I install my own crap. Helps you understand what's probable and possible...

First. Of course he didn't touch the knock sensors... Buuuut the knock sensors HARNESS actually runs right at the front of the intake. All the plugs are right behind the top of the timing cover and right in front of the fuel rail. It is 100% POSSIBLE that he messed up these plugs or wires... But not very probable. Look up "knock sensor harness replacement" and double check your connections and wire continuity....



You also have a lean condition... One of the easiest ways to get knock is to run lean.... So you may very well may be setting off both knock sensors cause your running too lean and pinging.

My guess is that you have a vacuum leak at the intake gasket... You should have a boost gauge attached cause that can help determine if you are even building boost.

Get a can of throttle body cleaner or the like and do spot sprays around the base of the supercharger plenum while idling and listen for an increase in rpms from it sucking in some of the spray... Then move to the throttle body. Then down the intake tube(least likely, but possible).

Start with those two things. Yourself. Then tell your mechanic what he did wrong and he's an idiot.

 

[pygmy warrior]

I got back this morning from a camping trip and towing my camper for the first time after the sc install... MAN WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! It doesn't even seem like the same truck. Towing a nearly 5800 lb. camper up hills that used to kick the truck into passing gear before and drop speed, now I can set the cruise on 60 mph and it powers up those hills with no problem and doesn't drop into passing gear.
Needless to say, I am impressed!

 

[pygmy warrior]

After removing the intake elbow as recommended, I have now seen 7.2 PSI boost. Only up to 7 PSI before. It looks like it only made a small difference, but worth the time to remove it.

 

[Lefty JD]

Ok first off, yes I searched multiple times and couldn't find an answer. But somebody has had to have ran into this?

Second gen (black) S/C and went to put a 2.2" pulley on it.
Hi-output alt that has a smaller pulley than stock.
Static style tensioner
Belt is too long and loose even with the alternator adjusted fully out.

Tried a brand new belt, still about an inch too long. So loose is slips and squeals at idle. Standard S/C belt size. Local Riebes says the next shorter belt in any of their catalogs is like 5" shorter-clearly not gonna work.

Two options occur to me:

1) Find a larger diameter idler puller to take up some belt length. No idea how to find that info since it's outside of a standard application.

2)Would a dynamic tensioner solve this? I couldn't find anything about this particular problem though. I'd rather not spend ~$300 on the dynamic one right at Christmas if it isn't going to solve the problem!

Any insight? Working crazy hours lately so any trial and error time you can save me would be greatly appreciated. Shoot the 2.2 pulley has been sitting for about a month waiting for install!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Ok first off, yes I searched multiple times and couldn't find an answer. But somebody has had to have ran into this?

Second gen (black) S/C and went to put a 2.2" pulley on it.
Hi-output alt that has a smaller pulley than stock.
Static style tensioner
Belt is too long and loose even with the alternator adjusted fully out.

Tried a brand new belt, still about an inch too long. So loose is slips and squeals at idle. Standard S/C belt size. Local Riebes says the next shorter belt in any of their catalogs is like 5" shorter-clearly not gonna work.

Two options occur to me:

1) Find a larger diameter idler puller to take up some belt length. No idea how to find that info since it's outside of a standard application.

2)Would a dynamic tensioner solve this? I couldn't find anything about this particular problem though. I'd rather not spend ~$300 on the dynamic one right at Christmas if it isn't going to solve the problem!

Any insight? Working crazy hours lately so any trial and error time you can save me would be greatly appreciated. Shoot the 2.2 pulley has been sitting for about a month waiting for install!

The dynamic tensioner would work as long as it doesn't come in contact with the oil dipstick. However, by reducing the size of the alternator pulley AND the supercharger pulley you've changed the size of the belt needed.

Other option would just go back to a stock sized alternator pulley.

 

[Lefty JD]

Other option would just go back to a stock sized alternator pulley.

Considered that, but I'm not sure if the larger alt pulley would spin the higher amp alt fast enough? I suppose it's worth a try before ordering the dynamic tensioner.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Considered that, but I'm not sure if the larger alt pulley would spin the higher amp alt fast enough? I suppose it's worth a try before ordering the dynamic tensioner.

I'm assuming you still have the older static tensioner? It's known issue, even with a stock alternator pulley, for the belt to slip once you go to a 2.2" or 2.1" SC pulley. So a dynamic tensioner might be a good idea either way.

 

[tx_shooter]

Considered that, but I'm not sure if the larger alt pulley would spin the higher amp alt fast enough? I suppose it's worth a try before ordering the dynamic tensioner.

Putting a larger pulley on it should actually spin the alternator faster. But I would start with the dynamic tensioner. They are worth the money (even though it is crazy money now) to ensure proper tension for the SC.

 

[pygmy warrior]

Any way to modify the alternator adjustment to take up the excess slack?

 

[Lefty JD]

Putting a larger pulley on it should actually spin the alternator faster. But I would start with the dynamic tensioner. They are worth the money (even though it is crazy money now) to ensure proper tension for the SC.

Larger crank pulley makes alt spin faster, larger accessory (alt/water pump etc) pulley makes the accessory spin slower. Easy to get mixed up though!

But yea it looks like I'm gonna grab a dynamic tensioner. Now if the damn 2.2 pulley would just come off so I can run the stock 2.3 in the meantime. Only been on for 24 hours and man it's on there!

 

[gamefreakgc]

Larger crank pulley makes alt spin faster, larger accessory (alt/water pump etc) pulley makes the accessory spin slower. Easy to get mixed up though!

But yea it looks like I'm gonna grab a dynamic tensioner. Now if the damn 2.2 pulley would just come off so I can run the stock 2.3 in the meantime. Only been on for 24 hours and man it's on there!

Use a 3 claw puller, that's the only way to get them off. Autozone and O'Reilly's rents them for free.

I had a heck of a time getting the nut off the first time though. I had to use a 240 lb/ft rated impact wrench to get the darn thing off!

 

[Lefty JD]

Use a 3 claw puller, that's the only way to get them off. Autozone and O'Reilly's rents them for free.

I had a heck of a time getting the nut off the first time though. I had to use a 240 lb/ft rated impact wrench to get the darn thing off!

Oddly enough, the 2.2 was way tougher to remove than the original one was. My 3 jaw puller was too big to fit with radiator in there, so I went and bought a smaller 2 jaw one that worked fine. I also had to use my big air impact gun. I half expected to shatter the jack screw on the puller, was pleasantly surprised it didn't even bend.

Back to stock pulley until dynamic tensioner arrives. Still making 7.5#'s per my gauge, so I can't complain.

Thanks for the helpful replies everybody! :cheers: