The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[Toy2play]

So I just bought the 7th injector kit from URD and a 2.2 pulley to go along with it. It's in the mail. Been reading this whole thread, damn it's long. So a couple questions, I'm in Utah and elevation is around 4400 feet, the stock pulley has been fine and only ping I get was in lower rpm and 3/4 throttle which goes away when I disengage overdrive. I usually make 5 to 6 psi of boost depending on time of year. I've since bought a pop up trailer and I've been pulling that and I want more power for steeper hills and when I am in higher elevation. I was planning on the 2.2 pulley but I'm not sure if that will make that much of a difference. Should I consider the 2.1 pulley?

I was going to ask if I should even bother installing the fuel pump that comes with the kit if I go with 2.2? I have no experience with tuning and I haven't installed a wide band in yet which I was going to slap the 2.2 on and then see how it sounded. Is the 2.1 just a nightmare to tune with a base map from URD? Should I stick with the 2.2 and go from there? I really would love the extra power for towing or when the rig is heavily loaded on overland trips.

I do have an external transmission cooler in series with the stock, tundra brakes, and air bags that help with towing. The popup trailer when completely loaded is probably around 3000 pounds, but does have brakes on it. The runner runs fine when empty with the stock pulley, but towing this pop up has changed that. I'm not opposed to installing a wideband and tune, but I really dont want to always be chasing ping. Again I have no tuning experience. What do you guys think, 2.2 or 2.1 with the 7th injector and running 95% of the time between 4k-8k elevation?

 

[gamefreakgc]

So I just bought the 7th injector kit from URD and a 2.2 pulley to go along with it. It's in the mail. Been reading this whole thread, damn it's long. So a couple questions, I'm in Utah and elevation is around 4400 feet, the stock pulley has been fine and only ping I get was in lower rpm and 3/4 throttle which goes away when I disengage overdrive. I usually make 5 to 6 psi of boost depending on time of year. I've since bought a pop up trailer and I've been pulling that and I want more power for steeper hills and when I am in higher elevation. I was planning on the 2.2 pulley but I'm not sure if that will make that much of a difference. Should I consider the 2.1 pulley?

I was going to ask if I should even bother installing the fuel pump that comes with the kit if I go with 2.2? I have no experience with tuning and I haven't installed a wide band in yet which I was going to slap the 2.2 on and then see how it sounded. Is the 2.1 just a nightmare to tune with a base map from URD? Should I stick with the 2.2 and go from there? I really would love the extra power for towing or when the rig is heavily loaded on overland trips.

I do have an external transmission cooler in series with the stock, tundra brakes, and air bags that help with towing. The popup trailer when completely loaded is probably around 3000 pounds, but does have brakes on it. The runner runs fine when empty with the stock pulley, but towing this pop up has changed that. I'm not opposed to installing a wideband and tune, but I really dont want to always be chasing ping. Again I have no tuning experience. What do you guys think, 2.2 or 2.1 with the 7th injector and running 95% of the time between 4k-8k elevation?

A good tune with the 7th injector will add much more power than switching to the 2.2" pulley. There's about 30 RWHP to be had from just a tune.

Since you placed an order, send an email to URD and let them know you ordered the products, live at 4000-5000 ft elevation and would like a base tune. The base tune will be lightyears ahead of having no tune.

 

[Toy2play]

A good tune with the 7th injector will add much more power than switching to the 2.2" pulley. There's about 30 RWHP to be had from just a tune.

Since you placed an order, send an email to URD and let them know you ordered the products, live at 4000-5000 ft elevation and would like a base tune. The base tune will be lightyears ahead of having no tune.

What do you think about installing the fuel pump that comes with the kit? Any point of installing it if I'm running a 2.2? I appreciate your input. Thanks.

It's been a couple years since I read the first 50 pages of this thread. A lot of good information in those pages. I'm going to hold off on installing the fuel pump that comes with the kit. Can always add it later if I need to.

 

[gamefreakgc]

What do you think about installing the fuel pump that comes with the kit? Any point of installing it if I'm running a 2.2? I appreciate your input. Thanks.

It's been a couple years since I read the first 50 pages of this thread. A lot of good information in those pages. I'm going to hold off on installing the fuel pump that comes with the kit. Can always add it later if I need to.

The problem is that without a wideband AFR gauge you're kind of blind if you are running out of fuel pressure or not. At elevation you need less fuel though, so you might get away with it. If you're not chasing optimum power with a perfect 11.8 AFR tune, then you can get away with not installing the pump. But if you ever move down close to sea level you're going to want it.

 

[Toy2play]

The problem is that without a wideband AFR gauge you're kind of blind if you are running out of fuel pressure or not. At elevation you need less fuel though, so you might get away with it. If you're not chasing optimum power with a perfect 11.8 AFR tune, then you can get away with not installing the pump. But if you ever move down close to sea level you're going to want it.

True, more than likely I'll install one. The more I read, the less complicated it sounds. The first step is knowing the numbers and going from there. Your post throughout this whole thread have been a blessing. I really appreciate that you take time out of your day to reply to the numerous posts going back years. Once I get everything hooked up and running, I'll be posting. One more question, which Afr wideband gauge would be appropriate if I want to be able to record the data on a computer? I've read so many posts this past week that my brain is cant recall what is up or down.

 

[Black798]

True, more than likely I'll install one. The more I read, the less complicated it sounds. The first step is knowing the numbers and going from there. Your post throughout this whole thread have been a blessing. I really appreciate that you take time out of your day to reply to the numerous posts going back years. Once I get everything hooked up and running, I'll be posting. One more question, which Afr wideband gauge would be appropriate if I want to be able to record the data on a computer? I've read so many posts this past week that my brain is cant recall what is up or down.

Install the wideband, it is crazy easy. I think it took me all of a hour to set mine up and the peace of mind of seeing if anything is going wrong is so nice.

For widebands most around here run either the AEM or Innovative Motorsports, myself included. Im running the AEM UEGO, but pretty much any wideband you get will work for data logging as long as it has an auxiliary 0-5v output. Im not sure how the URD 7th works with data logging but basically you hook up the 5v output from the wideband to the piggyback ECU and tell it what voltages mean what, my AEM came with a chart that list all of the voltage equivalents, and then the piggy back logs it with your other parameters you set.

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] Ill be picking your brain here pretty shortly when I get my piggyback wired in and start tuning. I went to purchase the AEM FIC6 last week and come to find out they have discontinued it and I couldn't find a single place with one that was still laying around. I ended up going with a MAPecu3 which is pretty similar with some extra features. But anyway went driving today and looks like my guess of what was going on is dead on. In closed look my computer is trying real hard to stay at stoich and max timing which is causing ll the ping and a AFR of 15.2ish. As soon as it kicks to open loop though the timing drops to 12 and AFR goes to 12-10. When the ecu gets in I'm going to start by just chasing fuel but will probably need some help getting a base map setup based off what you are running.

 

[Toy2play]

Install the wideband, it is crazy easy. I think it took me all of a hour to set mine up and the peace of mind of seeing if anything is going wrong is so nice.

For widebands most around here run either the AEM or Innovative Motorsports, myself included. Im running the AEM UEGO, but pretty much any wideband you get will work for data logging as long as it has an auxiliary 0-5v output. Im not sure how the URD 7th works with data logging but basically you hook up the 5v output from the wideband to the piggyback ECU and tell it what voltages mean what, my AEM came with a chart that list all of the voltage equivalents, and then the piggy back logs it with your other parameters you set.

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] Ill be picking your brain here pretty shortly when I get my piggyback wired in and start tuning. I went to purchase the AEM FIC6 last week and come to find out they have discontinued it and I couldn't find a single place with one that was still laying around. I ended up going with a MAPecu3 which is pretty similar with some extra features. But anyway went driving today and looks like my guess of what was going on is dead on. In closed look my computer is trying real hard to stay at stoich and max timing which is causing ll the ping and a AFR of 15.2ish. As soon as it kicks to open loop though the timing drops to 12 and AFR goes to 12-10. When the ecu gets in I'm going to start by just chasing fuel but will probably need some help getting a base map setup based off what you are running.

Will this work and will this fit in the cubby under the ash tray? I've got a 2 pod on the pillar with tranny temp and boost gauge already.
https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS

Edit: just measured and it looks like it will fit. Actually I forgot I'll need a mounting cup to mount there. I thought I saw someone mount in that position.
https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-2...Y7BGEGC2NGX&psc=1&refRID=BBTQF2G45Y7BGEGC2NGX

 

[Black798]

Will this work and will this fit in the cubby under the ash tray? I've got a 2 pod on the pillar with tranny temp and boost gauge already.
https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS

Edit: just measured and it looks like it will fit. Actually I forgot I'll need a mounting cup to mount there. I thought I saw someone mount in that position.
https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-2...Y7BGEGC2NGX&psc=1&refRID=BBTQF2G45Y7BGEGC2NGX

Yep thats the exact gauge Im running, I just a=have the black faceplate in mine
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/147275993@N05/48117127912/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_20190623_175229"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48117127912_8aa0de3549.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20190623_175229"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Another place you could mount it is in front of the transfer case shifter in that trim piece, thats where I have my trans gauge

 

[Toy2play]

Yep thats the exact gauge Im running, I just a=have the black faceplate in mine
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/147275993@N05/48117127912/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_20190623_175229"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48117127912_8aa0de3549.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="IMG_20190623_175229"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Another place you could mount it is in front of the transfer case shifter in that trim piece, thats where I have my trans gauge

In front of the transfer case is already taken with switches from the center console. I installed the newer(99+) center console on my 97. Hmmm I do like your setup. My double din has a cubby that is useless. Dont really feel like re-routing my other two gauges though.

 

[Black798]

In front of the transfer case is already taken with switches from the center console. I installed the newer(99+) center console on my 97. Hmmm I do like your setup. My double din has a cubby that is useless. Dont really feel like re-routing my other two gauges though.

Ah, I had the cubby as well but never used it so I just shifted the radio down. I couldn't go with the pillar pod since I ave a switch panel mounted there

 

[Toy2play]

Ah, I had the cubby as well but never used it so I just shifted the radio down. I couldn't go with the pillar pod since I ave a switch panel mounted there

You see below your cigarette lighter and left of your CB? You think a gauge could fit there?

 

[Black798]

You see below your cigarette lighter and left of your CB? You think a gauge could fit there?

I think so. Your angle you can mount at will be fairly restricted but it should work. The AEM gauge face is pretty far forward which helps with viewing from off angles

 

[gamefreakgc]

Install the wideband, it is crazy easy. I think it took me all of a hour to set mine up and the peace of mind of seeing if anything is going wrong is so nice.

For widebands most around here run either the AEM or Innovative Motorsports, myself included. Im running the AEM UEGO, but pretty much any wideband you get will work for data logging as long as it has an auxiliary 0-5v output. Im not sure how the URD 7th works with data logging but basically you hook up the 5v output from the wideband to the piggyback ECU and tell it what voltages mean what, my AEM came with a chart that list all of the voltage equivalents, and then the piggy back logs it with your other parameters you set.

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] Ill be picking your brain here pretty shortly when I get my piggyback wired in and start tuning. I went to purchase the AEM FIC6 last week and come to find out they have discontinued it and I couldn't find a single place with one that was still laying around. I ended up going with a MAPecu3 which is pretty similar with some extra features. But anyway went driving today and looks like my guess of what was going on is dead on. In closed look my computer is trying real hard to stay at stoich and max timing which is causing ll the ping and a AFR of 15.2ish. As soon as it kicks to open loop though the timing drops to 12 and AFR goes to 12-10. When the ecu gets in I'm going to start by just chasing fuel but will probably need some help getting a base map setup based off what you are running.

12? That's pretty darn low. Are you running 91+ octane? You might have a case of "phantom knock" where the ECU picks up a frequency from the supercharger rotors and confuses it with spark knock. We'll see though when you get a good tune on it. I see 17 degrees at WOT in 2nd gear (timing will increase with each gear). PM me when you get it all wired up and I can help setup your base map. I don't have the MAPECU3 software though.

[MENTION=143467]Toy2play[/MENTION] just a heads up the AFR gauge itself does not have data logging capability, it's the piggyback ECU that does. I think the Split Second unit should be able to though.

 

[Toy2play]

12? That's pretty darn low. Are you running 91+ octane? You might have a case of "phantom knock" where the ECU picks up a frequency from the supercharger rotors and confuses it with spark knock. We'll see though when you get a good tune on it. I see 17 degrees at WOT in 2nd gear (timing will increase with each gear). PM me when you get it all wired up and I can help setup your base map. I don't have the MAPECU3 software though.

[MENTION=143467]Toy2play[/MENTION] just a heads up the AFR gauge itself does not have data logging capability, it's the piggyback ECU that does. I think the Split Second unit should be able to though.

Sounds good. Gotta see if this gauge will fit in the little cubby. Regardless I think I'll get the wideband gauge kit and figure out mounting when I have it in my hands.

 

[Black798]

12? That's pretty darn low. Are you running 91+ octane? You might have a case of "phantom knock" where the ECU picks up a frequency from the supercharger rotors and confuses it with spark knock. We'll see though when you get a good tune on it. I see 17 degrees at WOT in 2nd gear (timing will increase with each gear). PM me when you get it all wired up and I can help setup your base map. I don't have the MAPECU3 software though.

[MENTION=143467]Toy2play[/MENTION] just a heads up the AFR gauge itself does not have data logging capability, it's the piggyback ECU that does. I think the Split Second unit should be able to though.

Yep 91 is the highest I can get here so thats what I run. and 2 step colder plugs if that matters. Ill have to check again tomorrow and see what my WOT timing is. Im not sure if its picking up the "phantom" knock or what, but as soon as it switches out of closed loop its super obvious by how much power picks up its encouraging though since it gives me an idea of the power to be gained.Hopefully I can pick up some MPGs with a decent tune as well since Im only getting 12 right now eve if I keep my foot out of it

 

[Toy2play]

Just received my URD 7th and pulley. Couple questions, their instructions state not to use impact tools to remove the nut holding the pulley on. I have the 4th gen black supercharger and I thought I've read that more than a few were using an air impact wrench to get it off. Is it okay to use? Also since I'm going to a 2.2 pulley, URD recommended the spark gap at .043, I've read some are going smaller ~.035. Is that only if you are going to a smaller pulley than the 2.2?

 

[gamefreakgc]

Just received my URD 7th and pulley. Couple questions, their instructions state not to use impact tools to remove the nut holding the pulley on. I have the 4th gen black supercharger and I thought I've read that more than a few were using an air impact wrench to get it off. Is it okay to use? Also since I'm going to a 2.2 pulley, URD recommended the spark gap at .043, I've read some are going smaller ~.035. Is that only if you are going to a smaller pulley than the 2.2?

Do your best to not use an air impact gun. Mine did not come off because it's really hard to hold the pulley still.

Don't go by the URD gap, it's wrong and even Gadget has said it's wrong. The IK22's, which most people use, are gapped to .032. That allows for a little bit of wear and run great. Trust me on this one, you don't want the gaps at .043!

 

[Toy2play]

Do your best to not use an air impact gun. Mine did not come off because it's really hard to hold the pulley still.

Don't go by the URD gap, it's wrong and even Gadget has said it's wrong. The IK22's, which most people use, are gapped to .032. That allows for a little bit of wear and run great. Trust me on this one, you don't want the gaps at .043!

Awesome, thanks again. I'm hoping I have time to install in the next few days.

 

[Bandit Runner]

Don't go by the URD gap, it's wrong and even Gadget has said it's wrong. The IK22's, which most people use, are gapped to .032. That allows for a little bit of wear and run great. Trust me on this one, you don't want the gaps at .043!

Uh-oh! I just finished installing my 7th injector kit and 2.2" pulley this past weekend. I gapped the plugs to the .043" as per the URD instructions.

Can you tell me why this is bad? What problems could I see from this?

Thanks.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Uh-oh! I just finished installing my 7th injector kit and 2.2" pulley this past weekend. I gapped the plugs to the .043" as per the URD instructions.

Can you tell me why this is bad? What problems could I see from this?

Thanks.

You just won't get complete combustion and you're leaving power on the table. I lost power when my spark plugs gapped themselves to .043 (I drive 'em hard) and when I re-gapped to 0.32 the misfires stopped and power was back.