The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[Ryance39]

So I think my hours of reading has helped out.
Last night I cleaned the MAF really well, reset the codes, and left the negative terminal unhooked all night.
This morning I went out, conveyed the terminal and cranked it up. It ran smooth, no codes, temps were good, and even the AFR code I input in my scan gauge worked for what I’ll call “directional” AFR readings.

I just drove about 40 miles, mix of city and highway, high revs, low revs and everything in between and it seems to be running perfect and smooth. Hoping my PO171 was as simple as cleaning the MAF.

I also read, and want to confirm I read it right, that the knock sensors on this motor do not register codes unless revs are over 3k. The ping we all worry about typically comes below 3k, is that right?

 

[MarkamisPrime]

Alright so someone else has had to had this issue
Tranny cable is too short.
Is there a part number for a longer one?
Not really any possibilities for rerouting it.

 

[wrench.n.wheel]

Alright so someone else has had to had this issue
Tranny cable is too short.
Is there a part number for a longer one?
Not really any possibilities for rerouting it.

I undid the bracket near the tranny and kinda wiggled it on the side of the engine to make it work.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Alright so someone else has had to had this issue
Tranny cable is too short.
Is there a part number for a longer one?
Not really any possibilities for rerouting it.

Re-route it. There's only one length. It won't fit completely in the bracket like it used to before the supercharger, un-clip it, bolt it in and then clip as much as you can back in.

 

[gamefreakgc]

So I think my hours of reading has helped out.
Last night I cleaned the MAF really well, reset the codes, and left the negative terminal unhooked all night.
This morning I went out, conveyed the terminal and cranked it up. It ran smooth, no codes, temps were good, and even the AFR code I input in my scan gauge worked for what I’ll call “directional” AFR readings.

I just drove about 40 miles, mix of city and highway, high revs, low revs and everything in between and it seems to be running perfect and smooth. Hoping my PO171 was as simple as cleaning the MAF.

I also read, and want to confirm I read it right, that the knock sensors on this motor do not register codes unless revs are over 3k. The ping we all worry about typically comes below 3k, is that right?

That's correct. If you have an auto, I recommend keeping ECT Power on full-time since it helps raise the shift points and lessens the chance of the engine pinging. If it's a manual, should be pretty simple

 

[MarkamisPrime]

I undid the bracket near the tranny and kinda wiggled it on the side of the engine to make it work.

I did this
One 10mm bolt and un clipped the top clip pulled upward and got even a lot more slack than I needed.
I had to max out the adjustment, I guess I could pull it back down but I left it and was even able to put the bolt back through the bracket as if nothing had ever been touched.

 

[Ryance39]

That's correct. If you have an auto, I recommend keeping ECT Power on full-time since it helps raise the shift points and lessens the chance of the engine pinging. If it's a manual, should be pretty simple

Thank you. I always run with ECT on. I’ve heard/driven into ping once that was noticeable. Other than that I have been able to avoid it.

After having the 4Runner sit all week, the PO171 is back on, triggering the check engine light. On the drive home everything seemed to run correct, even MPG seemed reasonable. I don’t want to start throwing parts at it but do want to get this resolved.

I’ve read mixed things about running without fuel mods or in “stock” form, but some folks have said the check engine light can be on for a little while then eventually the ECU will relearn and the light will go out. Some people say it can take a few tanks of gas. As a group do we agree that’s true?

 

[Bigmd]

Ok been planning a supercharger build for the last year. I had OBX headers installed two years ago because my manifolds were leaking and figured while i was in there mine as well. I’ve piecing it all together and this is what i have . I scored a rebuilt 1st gen supercharger with all new parts for a deal too good to pass up. I installed a Devils Own universal kit to come on with any boost. Also wired in a Kenne Bell boost a pump . I’ve read this with the meth can handle fuel issues . I’ve bought the recommended colder plugs and Toyota thermostat . Boost gauge and AF gauge are already installed. The supercharger has factory pulley on it and I plan on running it for now . But would I be able to step it up to the next smaller size without any further modifications? Also I’m running factory exhaust after headers . Will this kill any performance. I like how quiet factory system is . Thanks in advance

 

[4Reak Show]

I’ve read mixed things about running without fuel mods or in “stock” form, but some folks have said the check engine light can be on for a little while then eventually the ECU will relearn and the light will go out. Some people say it can take a few tanks of gas. As a group do we agree that’s true?

Nope. The ECM's adaptive strategies are pretty basic overall. So I really really doubt it's a "learning" issue. My money is that rear passenger supercharger bolt is a turn too loose. That's all it took for mine to be an issue. Have you done the brake cleaner test? Keep the straw on it and pinpoint any vacuum leaks by a slight change in engine rpm. That or a smoke test.

Stock intake: no codes
SC installed: P0171

Seems pretty clear the installation of SC has created a vacuum leak. Time to find it. Don't waste money on parts.

 

[Ryance39]

Nope. The ECM's adaptive strategies are pretty basic overall. So I really really doubt it's a "learning" issue. My money is that rear passenger supercharger bolt is a turn too loose. That's all it took for mine to be an issue. Have you done the brake cleaner test? Keep the straw on it and pinpoint any vacuum leaks by a slight change in engine rpm. That or a smoke test.

Stock intake: no codes
SC installed: P0171

Seems pretty clear the installation of SC has created a vacuum leak. Time to find it. Don't waste money on parts.

Right, I’m thinking the same. I’ve got a buddy that can bring is smoke machine over on Thursday and will test it then.

I took some time and did some spraying around vacuum points yesterday and didn’t get any odd/spiking or dipping idles, so I’m hoping the smoke will make it abundantly clear. I checked the torque on the front and rear bolts and both are right on spec. The two near the throttle body are a little more challenging to get A torque wrench on but they feel as tight. We’ll see, I appreciate everyone’s help. I’m loving the SC so far, just want to get it all buttoned up.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Thank you. I always run with ECT on. I’ve heard/driven into ping once that was noticeable. Other than that I have been able to avoid it.

After having the 4Runner sit all week, the PO171 is back on, triggering the check engine light. On the drive home everything seemed to run correct, even MPG seemed reasonable. I don’t want to start throwing parts at it but do want to get this resolved.

I’ve read mixed things about running without fuel mods or in “stock” form, but some folks have said the check engine light can be on for a little while then eventually the ECU will relearn and the light will go out. Some people say it can take a few tanks of gas. As a group do we agree that’s true?

Being in a cooler climate helps a ton. Where I live we see some temp swings throughout the year, from 105 in the summer to into the 30's in the winter. Those high heat summer days make it ping like crazy if I'm not driving it right. But then I can drive the exact same way in winter and it's ping free. I'm sure the cooler Washington air goes a long way to keep it under control.

I have nothing to add about the lean code. I'm also confident it's just a vacuum leak. The throttle body gasket can be installed sideways and leak (been there done that).

 

[Ryance39]

So my PO171 check engine light issue has been resolved. There is a nipple on the back on the supercharger, right near the throttle body that I simply couldn't see once it was installed that I didn't cap off. For the 99 there is no vacuum line that should run to it and I just couldn't see it. So a quick capping and we're good.

I cannot :ybrick::ybrick::ybrick: believe I didn't see that fitting.

 

[mikeferg]

So my PO171 check engine light issue has been resolved. There is a nipple on the back on the supercharger, right near the throttle body that I simply couldn't see once it was installed that I didn't cap off. For the 99 there is no vacuum line that should run to it and I just couldn't see it. So a quick capping and we're good.

I cannot :ybrick::ybrick::ybrick: believe I didn't see that fitting.

Yup I had the same issue, but I figured it out in only a few minutes because I can hear a vacuum leak

 

[4Reak Show]

So my PO171 check engine light issue has been resolved. There is a nipple on the back on the supercharger, right near the throttle body that I simply couldn't see once it was installed that I didn't cap off. For the 99 there is no vacuum line that should run to it and I just couldn't see it. So a quick capping and we're good.



I cannot :ybrick::ybrick::ybrick: believe I didn't see that fitting.

NICE! Hey take the easy wins when you can. That's about as easy as it can be. Just remember the first 3 rules of automotive diagnostics:

1) check the basics
2) check the basics
3) did you check the basics?

Glad you found it.

Oh, and let's not forget [MENTION=127339]4Reak Show[/MENTION] NAILED it. (I'm probably the most humble person.)

 

[Ryance39]

Yep, you guys were right. I knew it was a vacuum leak I just couldn't find it! I'm going to blame it on the fact that my 4runner is lifted and on 33's, and I'm only about 6 foot tall. I simply couldn't see it.


Glad to have it resolved. I swear the check engine light is brighter than the rest of the dash lights...

 

[Jahmiroquai]

Is there a belt tension spec for the SC belt using the static tension pulley/plate?

I searched the thread but seems like most folks are using the dynamic unit.

 

[Black798]

There is but you need a special bent tension gauge tool to set it. The truck with the static tensioner is to get enough tension to keep the belt from slipping without putting unnecessary side load on the nose bearings from the belt.

Based off my dynamic tensioner I would tighten the belt until you can only deflect the belt around 1/2 an inch with your thumb in the longest section of belt. Use that as a starting point and go from there

 

[Jahmiroquai]

Thanks. I have a cheap belt tension tool, but I don't know how accurate it is. I was getting some slippage at high RPMs, so I'll tighten up the adjusting bracket on the alternator and we'll see what happens

 

[Black798]

So Im going to be going more in depth with the tuning on my 4runner than I think most have before and at least have in a long time. To me it just has seemed like the 5vz could make so much more power than it does even with the blower bolted on top. Ive also found the majority of the community just falls back on the "runs the 7th injector with their tune and thats as good as it gets" which drives me nuts because its nothing more than blind consumerism lol.

In order for me to do this though I needed a better way of monitoring the motor and to watch for any impending issues. For that I needed an exhaust gas temp (egt) gauge. An egt gauge and sensor is essentially just a thermo couple that is mounted in the exhaust stream as close the the cylinder ports as possible and it essentially is used to monitor the efficiency of the burn in the cylinder chamber and from that can tell you quite a bit if you know what you're looking for.

I choose to mount the egt probe just past the flange where the exhaust collector mounts to the header for a few reasons. The first being accessibility, it was nice and easy to get a drill and welder torch in there, the second biggest reason for mounting here was to not have to drill a hole into the cast manifold and risk cracking it.

Sensor installed...
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/147275993@N05/49118401928/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_20191124_120658"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49118401928_0d526cd6b7_b.jpg" width="469" height="1024" alt="IMG_20191124_120658"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

And Gauge installed in the only spot I had left right below the 12v outlet.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/147275993@N05/49119101082/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_20191124_162424"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49119101082_903d1d107e_b.jpg" width="469" height="1024" alt="IMG_20191124_162424"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Took the truck out and immediately could see that I was both losing power and was also being harder on the motor than necessary. I made the same run 3 times and averaged my results just to keep the data consistent. This pull was done at 65mph roughly 2500 rpm in 4th gear pulling a 6 percent grade for roughly a minute.

Averaging the data heres what I got.

AFR after 3psi, 12.5
No ping
EGT 1500 degrees

From the limited info out there I was able to find of guys running egt gauges on the 5vz they were making peak power right at 1400 degrees and this also proved to be the sweet spot for my motor. I did 4 more runs each time advancing the timing by 2 degree from my original map and got the egts down to 1400 and could feel a significant torque increase and was finding I actually was having to push less boost to maintain the same speed. Less boost more power? thats the magic recipe.

Over the next few weeks I am going to try playing with the cam timing and doing some other things to see how much I can really squeeze out of my setup and once Im happy with it Ill see about throwing it on a dyno just to put an actual number to it.

 

[gamefreakgc]

So Im going to be going more in depth with the tuning on my 4runner than I think most have before and at least have in a long time. To me it just has seemed like the 5vz could make so much more power than it does even with the blower bolted on top. Ive also found the majority of the community just falls back on the "runs the 7th injector with their tune and thats as good as it gets" which drives me nuts because its nothing more than blind consumerism lol.

In order for me to do this though I needed a better way of monitoring the motor and to watch for any impending issues. For that I needed an exhaust gas temp (egt) gauge. An egt gauge and sensor is essentially just a thermo couple that is mounted in the exhaust stream as close the the cylinder ports as possible and it essentially is used to monitor the efficiency of the burn in the cylinder chamber and from that can tell you quite a bit if you know what you're looking for.

I choose to mount the egt probe just past the flange where the exhaust collector mounts to the header for a few reasons. The first being accessibility, it was nice and easy to get a drill and welder torch in there, the second biggest reason for mounting here was to not have to drill a hole into the cast manifold and risk cracking it.

Sensor installed...


And Gauge installed in the only spot I had left right below the 12v outlet.


Took the truck out and immediately could see that I was both losing power and was also being harder on the motor than necessary. I made the same run 3 times and averaged my results just to keep the data consistent. This pull was done at 65mph roughly 2500 rpm in 4th gear pulling a 6 percent grade for roughly a minute.

Averaging the data heres what I got.

AFR after 3psi, 12.5
No ping
EGT 1500 degrees

From the limited info out there I was able to find of guys running egt gauges on the 5vz they were making peak power right at 1400 degrees and this also proved to be the sweet spot for my motor. I did 4 more runs each time advancing the timing by 2 degree from my original map and got the egts down to 1400 and could feel a significant torque increase and was finding I actually was having to push less boost to maintain the same speed. Less boost more power? thats the magic recipe.

Over the next few weeks I am going to try playing with the cam timing and doing some other things to see how much I can really squeeze out of my setup and once Im happy with it Ill see about throwing it on a dyno just to put an actual number to it.

Awesome data! These superchargers are known to run hot (hence the need for secondary fueling) but without an EGT sensor we're blind. Can you tie in the EGT readings into your piggyback as well or it is just for the gauge?

Also, has anyone tried using DENSO Iridium racing plugs? They have a super low profile and don't block the spark like the IK2X's. Their little dyno graph shows a 1.3% increase in power but that's on a 2-cycle engine so not sure. But they sure do look different: