The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Glen Gallo]

I wanted to ask this question in an new thread but cannot post UHGG

2002 4 runner 270k on the vehicle. I wanted to replace the motor the little woman said no

It was time for a timing belt last changed about 150 k or so

valve covers were leaking some of the hoses were original. I decided to jump into both jobs

I bought this kit for timing belt

NEW Genuine 14PCS TOYOTA 3.4 V6 5VZFE Water Pump Timing Belt Kit 4RUNNER TUNDRA | eBay

I would not say things went smooth as its been awhile since I have wrenched on my vehicles for awhile even though I am tooled up but I am rusty if you will.

My go to mechanic sold his shop cashed out and retired to AZ. You would think since I have known him since Jr High he would have consulted me and could have persuaded him to stay. Where am I supposed to take my cars now? What a dick.

work got in the way and the vehicle sat torn apart which always makes it harder for me. Had time off an emergency got in the way. So be it Life happens

had a ***** of a time getting the timing belt on

here is my conundrum

Part number 13505-62070 IDLER SUB-ASSY the one with the 10 mm allen key fit perfectly into tensioner and bolted right up torqued to spec

once I put the timing belt on it seem to not ride on center of roller as I expected. I double checked part number and it was the correct one ( or if I am wrong lmk)

I decided to roll with it

then the lower dustcover the one that goes over the crank would not got as the assembly was further out.

I looked at it thought all the parts are right I will space it out. I used 3/8 nuts checked the clearance ant put the rest back together

everything works fine however

Now it squeals like Ronnie James Dio at a Sabbath concert.

maybe not that loud but fn annoying unlike Dio whom I rather liked in Sabbath

Any idea if this part is correct or where to find the right one?

Or perhaps my squeal could be elsewhere?

I assume as that was the one part that was different as I said I am rusty

any suggestions would be helpful

 

[brillo_76]

I wanted to ask this question in an new thread but cannot post UHGG

2002 4 runner 270k on the vehicle. I wanted to replace the motor the little woman said no

It was time for a timing belt last changed about 150 k or so

valve covers were leaking some of the hoses were original. I decided to jump into both jobs

I bought this kit for timing belt

NEW Genuine 14PCS TOYOTA 3.4 V6 5VZFE Water Pump Timing Belt Kit 4RUNNER TUNDRA | eBay

I would not say things went smooth as its been awhile since I have wrenched on my vehicles for awhile even though I am tooled up but I am rusty if you will.

My go to mechanic sold his shop cashed out and retired to AZ. You would think since I have known him since Jr High he would have consulted me and could have persuaded him to stay. Where am I supposed to take my cars now? What a dick.

work got in the way and the vehicle sat torn apart which always makes it harder for me. Had time off an emergency got in the way. So be it Life happens

had a ***** of a time getting the timing belt on

here is my conundrum

Part number 13505-62070 IDLER SUB-ASSY the one with the 10 mm allen key fit perfectly into tensioner and bolted right up torqued to spec

once I put the timing belt on it seem to not ride on center of roller as I expected. I double checked part number and it was the correct one ( or if I am wrong lmk)

I decided to roll with it

then the lower dustcover the one that goes over the crank would not got as the assembly was further out.

I looked at it thought all the parts are right I will space it out. I used 3/8 nuts checked the clearance ant put the rest back together

everything works fine however

Now it squeals like Ronnie James Dio at a Sabbath concert.

maybe not that loud but fn annoying unlike Dio whom I rather liked in Sabbath

Any idea if this part is correct or where to find the right one?

Or perhaps my squeal could be elsewhere?

I assume as that was the one part that was different as I said I am rusty

any suggestions would be helpful

Sounding like your timing belt is not aligning properly on the pulleys. Are you sure you have all the pulleys in their proper location. As I am not sure what you all had off.

OR...

Your 3 other belts are not tight enough. Can you pinpoint exactly what is making the noise.??

Sometimes you have to pull the belts off one by one to find that. Now if you have all 3 belts off and its still making noise. Then you know its timing belt related.

 

[Bad Luck]

Your 3 other belts are not tight enough. Can you pinpoint exactly what is making the noise.??

Sometimes you have to pull the belts off one by one to find that. Now if you have all 3 belts off and its still making noise. Then you know its timing belt related.

That's exactly what i was going to suggest

 

[Glen Gallo]

Sounding like your timing belt is not aligning properly on the pulleys. Are you sure you have all the pulleys in their proper location. As I am not sure what you all had off.

OR...

Your 3 other belts are not tight enough. Can you pinpoint exactly what is making the noise.??

Sometimes you have to pull the belts off one by one to find that. Now if you have all 3 belts off and its still making noise. Then you know its timing belt related.

Thanks I appreciate any input

I like the idea of removing the belts great tip!

Thanks will perform that

The belts seem to be aligned including timing belt

The idler sub assembly sticks out to far for dust cover to go on will still be an issue no matter what I find there.

 

[Glen Gallo]

Oh my bad

I had everything off

upper and lower dust cover, radiator and cover fan and housing all belts water pump all covers replaced camshaft and crank seals

 

[Dezert4Runner]

Like mentioned, it sounds like drive belts are probably making the squealing noise. I did my TB a couple weeks ago and my alt belt was loose enough to cause the squeal on startup for a couple seconds.

The #2 idler pulley needs to have a washer on the back side of the allen mounting bolt. That could cause the issue you’re having I think.

Check out 1:06:45 of this Timmy video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHC46ypHxWc&feature=youtu.be

 

[brillo_76]

That's exactly what i was going to suggest

Because great mines think alike.

 

[Glen Gallo]

Sounding like your timing belt is not aligning properly on the pulleys. Are you sure you have all the pulleys in their proper location. As I am not sure what you all had off.

OR...

Your 3 other belts are not tight enough. Can you pinpoint exactly what is making the noise.??

Sometimes you have to pull the belts off one by one to find that. Now if you have all 3 belts off and its still making noise. Then you know its timing belt related.

Thanks I appreciate any input

I like the idea of removing the belts great tip!

Thanks will perform that

The belts seem to be aligned including timing belt

The idler sub assembly sticks out to far for dust cover to go on will still be an issue no matter what I find there.

 

[Glen Gallo]

so all belts off besides timing belt

the squeal improved with driving before removing but did not go away

its still there so on the timing belt

anyone else ever experience having to shim the lower dust cover out to install due to the #1 idler assembly sticking too far out

Thanks for the help

Amazing resource this forum is

 

[Glen Gallo]

washer is there i almost pulled it but looked at its function and decided i am not more clever than toyota or hino engineers

 

[JoeT4R]

One thing I've done in the past when I couldn't get a rounded bolt out is weld a socket to the bolt and twist it out with the impact. Just make sure you don't weld the bolt to the starter! lol. Just use a socket you don't mind having to chuck afterwards. Obviously you can only do this if you have access to a welder. Just a thought!

This is definitely an option, I think. I just can't get the angle right in order to get the socket to turn. I'm also doing this with the truck on the ground. But I can't imagine that's my problem. This is some food for thought though that I had not thought of, so thank you for that.

 

[brillo_76]

so all belts off besides timing belt

the squeal improved with driving before removing but did not go away

its still there so on the timing belt

anyone else ever experience having to shim the lower dust cover out to install due to the #1 idler assembly sticking too far out

Thanks for the help

Amazing resource this forum is

No.. I did 3 of these on 3 different 3rd gens using the air cabin kits.

Does this #1 idler assembly part number match that in diagrams from Toyota dealers?

I suspect whatever is wrong, its has to do with the lower dust cover is the problem area..

 

[Glen Gallo]

'Does this #1 idler assembly part number match that in diagrams from Toyota dealers?'

yes

ebay kit purchased here NEW Genuine 14PCS TOYOTA 3.4 V6 5VZFE Water Pump Timing Belt Kit 4RUNNER TUNDRA | eBay

all parts match my vehicle


'I suspect whatever is wrong, its has to do with the lower dust cover is the problem area'

The odd thing is it was fine when I took it apart.

I am going to have to put eyes on it.

not sure when.

 

[brillo_76]

'Does this #1 idler assembly part number match that in diagrams from Toyota dealers?'



yes



ebay kit purchased here NEW Genuine 14PCS TOYOTA 3.4 V6 5VZFE Water Pump Timing Belt Kit 4RUNNER TUNDRA | eBay



all parts match my vehicle





'I suspect whatever is wrong, its has to do with the lower dust cover is the problem area'



The odd thing is it was fine when I took it apart.



I am going to have to put eyes on it.



not sure when.

Is the cover the bottom one over the crankshaft? If so, your gear might not be fully on or not put together properly. As they have to slide back over the key a 1/4 or so on the driveshaft. I suspect that maybe your issue.

If it's the top one. Are your camshaft pulleys on properly? Is the center puley correct?

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[Glen Gallo]

Is the cover the bottom one over the crankshaft? If so, your gear might not be fully on or not put together properly. As they have to slide back over the key a 1/4 or so on the driveshaft. I suspect that maybe your issue.

If it's the top one. Are your camshaft pulleys on properly? Is the center puley correct?

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk

everything lines up with the exception of mentioned idler assembly

 

[brillo_76]

everything lines up with the exception of mentioned idler assembly

Hmm.. I am wondering what is up with the idler assembly. extremely odd.

 

[Storm01]

The grizzly is a complete carrier swap, the gears will need to be remounted, and at that point you're rebuilding the entire differential with new bearings so that the gears can be properly setup. If you wanted to try your hand at it, you could reset up the gear lash using all the same internals as long as the pinion depth doesn't have to change, but the reality of that is very low. The Spartan locker just replaced the spider gears inside the carrier so I just had to set the gear lash back up because it was the same carrier and I didn't unmount the ring gear.

You can pull the third member out and take it to a specialty shop to have it rebuilt or you can do as you say and have a donor rebuilt and swap it in so you're not down while you're waiting for it to be built. Your call. I installed the Aussie locker in my third member in an afternoon in the driveway, but when I had my new gears installed I had that done by a shop, ECGS

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Update:

Pretty sure I’m decided on getting a Pre-Built Diff from ECGS with an ARB Pneumatic Locker. It’s going to be a big chunk of change but I feel like well worth it due to being selectable.

Do you know if ECGS has the locker already installed with the copper air line and the bulkhead port in the housing? Also, does it come with the Install kit? (Air lines, switch etc.)

I believe that the ARB locker comes with it if you buy it as just the locker but correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[clearock]

Update:

Pretty sure I’m decided on getting a Pre-Built Diff from ECGS with an ARB Pneumatic Locker. It’s going to be a big chunk of change but I feel like well worth it due to being selectable.

Do you know if ECGS has the locker already installed with the copper air line and the bulkhead port in the housing? Also, does it come with the Install kit? (Air lines, switch etc.)

I believe that the ARB locker comes with it if you buy it as just the locker but correct me if I’m wrong.

The ARB locker has everything u need except the air pump in the box the lockers come in.

 

[octanejunkie]

Update:



Pretty sure I’m decided on getting a Pre-Built Diff from ECGS with an ARB Pneumatic Locker. It’s going to be a big chunk of change but I feel like well worth it due to being selectable.



Do you know if ECGS has the locker already installed with the copper air line and the bulkhead port in the housing? Also, does it come with the Install kit? (Air lines, switch etc.)



I believe that the ARB locker comes with it if you buy it as just the locker but correct me if I’m wrong.

You will need to supply the compressor

ARB CKMA12 On-Board Air Compressor High Performance 12 Volt for Air Locker Differentials and Tire Inflation https://a.co/d/8qSesZD

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[Storm01]

The ARB locker has everything u need except the air pump in the box the lockers come in.

Lovely. Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help and advice you’ve given me in this situation. Means a lot to keep this old girl going.