No worries bud. You would need to swap the hard brake lines from your current axle to your new axle. Essentially everything from where the rubber hoses connect at the axle to the backing plates on either axle side. Shouldn’t be difficult to do. Everything else will be the same with the exception of axle shaft/wheel bearing/backing plates/brake shoes and hardware. If you need to replace any of that down the line you’ll need to look it up for a 96-00 4Runner.
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
- Thread starter da_crew10
- Start date
- Status
Storm01
Member
Gotcha, doesn't sound too bad to swap. I'll keep updates on what ends up coming of the situation. If I had the proper machining work, I'd just modify my current housing but I'd probably mess up.
Hopefully I can find a locker for a reasonable price that isn't rotted out. Personally, I don't think I'd pay over $500 for just the 3rd member, does that sound reasonable? Some on ebay are over $1K; I could snag an ARB for that price.
I’ve seen full swap prices go for between $1000-$1500. Most people usually want to sell a front/rear axle or at a minimum the entire rear axle. You might have some difficulty finding a decently priced rear diff without the housing.
You’ll also either need an oem elocker ecm and wiring or aftermarket controller and wiring harness.
Storm01
Member
Thanks for the info. I plan on going with the Low Range Harness kit to make it as “plug-in-play” as possible.
We’ll see what I can come up with tonight, I’m going to hit my local yards with a good friend of mine to see what they got.
Worst case scenario, I’ll probably end up rebuilding my current unit with a True-Trac or something similar.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
I put a lunchbox locker in the rear of my 2WD, it was a pretty easy swap. It's for some interesting manners in slick conditions on the street, in dirt you won't notice it.
NB
I also put a lunchbox locker in the front of my 4WD (with factory e-locker rear) along with manual hubs. I would not recommend a lunchbox in a front ADD diff/CV setup, it's not pavement friendly but the manual hubs makes it "selectable"
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Correct. The not hidden/bolt on the right is for the starter.Starter replacement job. I'm assuming it's the bolt that's clearly visible and not the top left one that needs to be removed, correct?
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Well this thing has been a royal pain so I stopped for the day. I ended up getting a bolt extractor set from Harbor Freight, and the extractor fits and will bite, I just can't seem to get a good angle on it due to the lack of space available in that area to manipulate a wrench.
Not sure what my next move with it will be. Whether I have someone try to help me or just take it to a shop and say here, I have the parts I just need the labor. I'd rather do it myself with help instead of having to pay to have it done, but any suggestions are definitely appreciated and welcomed.
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
Attachments
JoeT4R
Senior Member
I used swivel sockets and extensions with no luck. Tried approaching it from different angles, too. Thing just doesn't want to work with me it seems like!
Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
Impact?
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Tried the impact, too. I'm going to call around to local shops tomorrow to get quotes for labor. If it's not unreasonable I may just pay to have it done. Even tried a bolt extractor. I just can't get enough movement down there.
Sent from my SM-T220 using Tapatalk
Storm01
Member
I have for sure considered a lunchbox locker but am unsure of their road manners/clacking and for long trips on the freeway; something about it being locked all the time would make me nervous going 80MPH. Also, I don't want my rear tires to wear quick; KO2s are expensive! Lol.
My 4R is my daily driver so selectable WOULD be nice but if it comes to it, I might be okay with an Aussie or Spartan depending on how they behave and sound. How do they behave in slick stuff? I've heard they fishtail easy.
Couldn't you also put in an 85W140 weight oil to quiet it down over the standard 80W90?
Last edited:
octanejunkie
Elite Member
It's "locked" but without torque and slippage it won't "engage" - you won't notice it; it's not like driving with an e-locker engaged. A lunchbox locker will ratchet around corners but you won't feel/hear it on the freeway, unless you hit black ice...
85W 140 is standard for locked diffs, I run conventional 84W 140 in both of mine. Syn is not recommended.
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
Storm01
Member
I’ll definitely consider it. I’m going to keep looking around for a locker, theres a few 4Runners down at the Pic-A-Part yard in Ogden so I’ll head down there sometime this week to see what they have.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
All good, take your time and do your research. That's what I did
if you're willing to take orders and ship some parts, I'll send you a list. Other folks in other states have more luck at the junk yards than I do, I work full time and the vultures seem not to LOL
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
I❤️4runners
New member
One thing I've done in the past when I couldn't get a rounded bolt out is weld a socket to the bolt and twist it out with the impact. Just make sure you don't weld the bolt to the starter! lol. Just use a socket you don't mind having to chuck afterwards. Obviously you can only do this if you have access to a welder. Just a thought!
Storm01
Member
Alright, I think after searching around for an E-Locker and seeing insane prices, I think I might go with a Grizzly Locker.
They seem very appealing and apparently have better street manners than a lunchbox locker (correct me if I’m wrong). The question is that if I get a Grizzly; should I rebuild my current diff or go get a donor to swap it into?
Thanks.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
The grizzly is a complete carrier swap, the gears will need to be remounted, and at that point you're rebuilding the entire differential with new bearings so that the gears can be properly setup. If you wanted to try your hand at it, you could reset up the gear lash using all the same internals as long as the pinion depth doesn't have to change, but the reality of that is very low. The Spartan locker just replaced the spider gears inside the carrier so I just had to set the gear lash back up because it was the same carrier and I didn't unmount the ring gear.
You can pull the third member out and take it to a specialty shop to have it rebuilt or you can do as you say and have a donor rebuilt and swap it in so you're not down while you're waiting for it to be built. Your call. I installed the Aussie locker in my third member in an afternoon in the driveway, but when I had my new gears installed I had that done by a shop, ECGS
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
brillo_76
Elite Member
Take a road trip...I get it out by welding a socket to it or grinding the head off then welding a nut back on to unscrew the bolt out of the starter...
Besides its alot easier to get in there with a car lift.- Status
