RZN180/VZN180 are both 2wd 4Runners. The “R” indicates 3RZ engine and the “V” indicates 5VZ engine. “180” is 2wd and “185” would be 4wd. But to answer your other question 2wd 4Runners have shorter upper arms in the rear because the rear diff pinion angle needs to be parallel with the transmission because of the different driveshaft design compared to 4wd.
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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I❤️4runners
New member
I've got a weird one for you guys. There's a strange buzzing noise coming from the driver's side engine bay right somewhere around the brake master cylinder. Kind of sounds like a wasp buzzing around. 4Runner's made the noise every since I got, 2 years ago, and I'm not that worried about it; I'm more just curious as to what the sound is if you guys have any thoughts. It buzzes faster after the trucks been running...probably every 4 seconds. When it's been sitting for a while it buzzes about every 12 seconds. Yeah, it's that consistent. I'm more just curious than anything. Thanks guys!
michaelmike
New member
Rear abs sensor wet! Big repair is it worth converting to disc???
Looks like only OEM but replace everything inside! Breather ok ext mod a maybe.
Biggest question is it possible to convert to rotors. That said can someone explain Toyotas design process on shoes vs pads. Stoping power w/load. This 4Run is 2WD and engine seems in order minus a Vechicle Speed Sensor code. My all knowing self bought with no odometer tach or gas gage and a few silly codes of course my desire to have one of these 4Run toys I figured no worries. LOL Air flow, TPS, one eBay then oem SMH. Next was knock sensor code wow lots of fun all trying to unlock this little beast full potential. Any way down to VSS of course the VSS is not the pictured sensor in most efiles. that little sensor on the tranny allows trans to auto shift. So Next closest plausible diagnosis ABS sensor. Replaced both front (no ABS code) still limp mode so replaced rear Both were wet. Cleaned dried vacuum gear oil, added difff stop leak. So I will pull and take part to shop $$$ in Murfreesboro. Saw a few 4Runs closer to Smashville but still scratching my head any advice from group always helps
Looks like only OEM but replace everything inside! Breather ok ext mod a maybe.
Biggest question is it possible to convert to rotors. That said can someone explain Toyotas design process on shoes vs pads. Stoping power w/load. This 4Run is 2WD and engine seems in order minus a Vechicle Speed Sensor code. My all knowing self bought with no odometer tach or gas gage and a few silly codes of course my desire to have one of these 4Run toys I figured no worries. LOL Air flow, TPS, one eBay then oem SMH. Next was knock sensor code wow lots of fun all trying to unlock this little beast full potential. Any way down to VSS of course the VSS is not the pictured sensor in most efiles. that little sensor on the tranny allows trans to auto shift. So Next closest plausible diagnosis ABS sensor. Replaced both front (no ABS code) still limp mode so replaced rear Both were wet. Cleaned dried vacuum gear oil, added difff stop leak. So I will pull and take part to shop $$$ in Murfreesboro. Saw a few 4Runs closer to Smashville but still scratching my head any advice from group always helps
Happybeach58
New member
Lot's of work enjoy.
Hi everybody. I’m new here, and I have a problem. I admit it. But it’s a good kinda problem. I have two 4Runners. I need to sell one. Sophie’s choice! I love them both!
I’ve even been closely tracking MPG’s to help me decide. Even going so far as to have each truck weighed at a semi-scale at the Flyin’ J just after filling the tank, and deducting my weight from the result.
The 2000 weighs right at 4000 lbs
The 1999 weighs 3,740
The ‘99 seems to get roughly .8 to 1.5 mpg better. Without lift and 33’s, I’m betting it would be more like 2-3 mpg better.
In my opinion the 2.7 does just about as well as the 3.4, taking into account that it’s 260 pounds lighter than the 2000. The 3.4 is not that powerful. But going up steep highway inclines here in SoCal I do have to rev the 2.7 harder to maintain speed.
The 99 is more fun (truck like), but the 00 is just nicer!
I’m in a conundrum.
2000. 3.4 5 spd manual Rear Diff Locker 135k.
Having the leather redone as we speak. Nice, tight, quiet. Almost Lexus-like ride.
1999. 2.7 4cyl 5 speed manual. 235k. Really nice throughout. Lifted w/33’s. SUPER nice and fun to drive. I’d compare this to a Tacoma in the way it drives (which I REALLY like).
I’ve even been closely tracking MPG’s to help me decide. Even going so far as to have each truck weighed at a semi-scale at the Flyin’ J just after filling the tank, and deducting my weight from the result.
The 2000 weighs right at 4000 lbs
The 1999 weighs 3,740
The ‘99 seems to get roughly .8 to 1.5 mpg better. Without lift and 33’s, I’m betting it would be more like 2-3 mpg better.
In my opinion the 2.7 does just about as well as the 3.4, taking into account that it’s 260 pounds lighter than the 2000. The 3.4 is not that powerful. But going up steep highway inclines here in SoCal I do have to rev the 2.7 harder to maintain speed.
The 99 is more fun (truck like), but the 00 is just nicer!
I’m in a conundrum.
2000. 3.4 5 spd manual Rear Diff Locker 135k.
Having the leather redone as we speak. Nice, tight, quiet. Almost Lexus-like ride.
1999. 2.7 4cyl 5 speed manual. 235k. Really nice throughout. Lifted w/33’s. SUPER nice and fun to drive. I’d compare this to a Tacoma in the way it drives (which I REALLY like).
That's a good problem to have to be honest. I have no advice either way and whichever one you decide to sell should get a good amount as both are rare options. If you decide to sell your 2000 assuming it's in overall good condition I would look at listing it on bringatrailer or carsandbids to reach the collector/enthusiast market. V6/manual/e-locker was a rare combination and at 135k miles that's pretty low for it's age. There's also not many 3RZ/manual/4wd 4Runners out there either so equally rare but less desirable for most folks.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Man, I wish I had this problem. Jeez! I definitely agree with what Bad Luck said. If it were me, that would be a hard decision to make due to personal opinions. 135K is reeeeeeally low mileage, especially for one of these things. But, what mileage won't do, age will. I'd love to have a 2.7L 5 speed. I had a 2.7 shortly after I got out of high school but I wrecked it. Biggest mistake ever. I just think the 3RZ is a lot more rare these days. Both are incredible engines. I don't know man... Sucks you find yourself in this situation of having to let one go. I'd say keep the 2.7L though.
Thanks for the feedback. I hate to quantify something I feel passionately about. I know that the 2000 is worth more, and I know if I get rid of it IÂ’ll never be able to afford one ever again. IÂ’ll be like 65 and always regret having sold it.
But I also know that I really dig the 3RZ. I just like the feel of it. ItÂ’s fun, light, and IMHO just as quick. A bit better on gas, too. Plus itÂ’s a lot easier to work on.
But I also know that I really dig the 3RZ. I just like the feel of it. ItÂ’s fun, light, and IMHO just as quick. A bit better on gas, too. Plus itÂ’s a lot easier to work on.
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I have a Gentex 453 with compass and temp sensor that I’ve wired up but the windshield mounting tab has fallen off twice. I’m waiting for warmer weather to try a different adhesive kit. While I’m waiting I’ve been driving without a rear view mirror and kind of like it better without a rear view mirror at all.
Has anyone added an external ambient temperature sensor that displays Fahrenheit? Trying to find alternatives to the Subaru FMU and Gentex mirrors. I ordered an eBay one and a couple of aliexpress ones to consider.
Has anyone added an external ambient temperature sensor that displays Fahrenheit? Trying to find alternatives to the Subaru FMU and Gentex mirrors. I ordered an eBay one and a couple of aliexpress ones to consider.
I❤️4runners
New member
Don't really know as it's not something I can hear over the engine while driving. It's only when it's sitting that you can hear it.
Spiker Engineering
official vendor
If you find one, please let us know. I had this one in the past, but it's been out of stock for years - Buy DROK 0.36" LED Digital Thermometer -67 to +257 ℉ Fahrenheit Temperature Meter Gauge DC 12V 24V 18B20 Probe 1 Meter Sensor Cable for Car Fridge Refrigerator Aquarium (Green) Online at desertcart OMAN.
It was great for a year, then died. I haven't been able to find another one ever since, they are all in Celsius. This is probably the closest I found, it seems to be in Fahrenheit, but also has a voltmeter - Battery Voltage Temperature Monitor Meter
Storm01
Member
Rear Diff #2 Toasted
Hey all, I’m currently in a bad situation regarding my rig but here’s some backstory.
About three weeks after I bought my rig in 2021, it was hit parked on the side of the road and bent the rear axle housing. Insurance covered it and the rear end was swapped out for a used one…about four months later the rear end grenades itself on the side of the road. The shops warranty covered it and “rebuilt it”. However, now my rear end is causing a massive vibration is howling above 60. Needless to say I’m a little pissed that the warranty is up.
So now, I would prefer to swap in an E-Locker into my 01 but have came up with nothing for a 4:10 locker. Now here’s my question: Would it be better to keep hunting around for a 4:10 E-Locker w/housing or rebuild my current one and drop in a locker? Money is definitely a determining factor. Thanks for any advice on what to do.
Hey all, I’m currently in a bad situation regarding my rig but here’s some backstory.
About three weeks after I bought my rig in 2021, it was hit parked on the side of the road and bent the rear axle housing. Insurance covered it and the rear end was swapped out for a used one…about four months later the rear end grenades itself on the side of the road. The shops warranty covered it and “rebuilt it”. However, now my rear end is causing a massive vibration is howling above 60. Needless to say I’m a little pissed that the warranty is up.
So now, I would prefer to swap in an E-Locker into my 01 but have came up with nothing for a 4:10 locker. Now here’s my question: Would it be better to keep hunting around for a 4:10 E-Locker w/housing or rebuild my current one and drop in a locker? Money is definitely a determining factor. Thanks for any advice on what to do.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Sucks, bud. Sorry.
Putting an e-locker third member into a standard housing requires modification of the housing, but it's not impossible. Based on your experience, and mine, I would highly recommend sourcing a used e-locker, sending the third member out to ECGs and having brand new 4.10 gears installed.
That being said, you could pull an entire e-locker and front differential from a limited model and upgrade to 4.3 gears front and rear, which is a lot easier to find than an e-locker with 4.10 gears.
Best of luck
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
I agree with what octane junkie said above, but wanted to add some additional info to help with your search for a used elocker rear axle. Since the elocker wasn’t available in 01-02 for 4Runners you will need to swap your brake lines from your current axle to whatever used axle housing you find. (96-00 had 1 rear brake hose and 01/02 had 2 brake hoses/circuits.) You might be able to find a 4Runner elocker housing and find a 4.10 elocker from a Tacoma. The 4.10 elocker was a lot more popular ratio in the 1st gen Tacoma compared to 4.30 for most 4Runner elockers. Also check car-part.com if you haven’t yet.
Not sure what it cost for a 4:10 locker vs just sourcing a 4:30 and having it changed over to a 4:10 as motioned, but for what its worth I just picked up a elocked tacoma and have no need of said but was planning to move as a complete unit, housing/diff/shafts/wiring/computer/switch. The housing is worthless to u as it set up for leaf springs...
Octanejunkie is right that is requires a bit of work but its not to hard to convert a standard.
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Storm01
Member
Thanks for the responses everyone, I really appreciate it. Means a lot.
So far, I have found a 4Runner specific housing that I will most likely let my friend pick up in Reno and I will check the local yards here in my valley here in UT. Tacomas are pretty popular here so I think I have a decent chance of finding a 4:10 locker but I’m not getting my hopes up.
However, I think the used axle they put in my rig is from a 99 so I believe it’s already been converted to single line. If it’s not, how would I go about converting over to single line? Some sort of an adapter? Thanks.
michaelmike
New member
Sorry if in wrong spot. Still challenged with where to look or ask. Lots of data. Hole through roof for light bar and corner lights on basket. Also have brake light on basket no aftermarket hide a wire look clean so ? Is feed wires under roof rack into cab and slap (flex seal and duct tape) to keep er dry. I have not tried this lmk what problems thank you
01/02 have 4 channel abs so you have 2 brake lines going to the rear axle. In order to convert that to a single brake line for the rear would be a nightmare. They likely transferred it from your old axle to your current axle. Easy way to confirm that is to check how many brake hoses you have going to the rear axle housing. You should see 2 brake hoses.
Storm01
Member
Yep, I see what you mean. I forgot the P.O. installed longer length lines. So my question would be once I swap over to the 96-00 axle with only one line, what would I do with the other line? Sorry, just a little confused.
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