The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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My 4runner is showing symptoms of head gasket issues.

- White, Sweet-smelling (and very raw gas smelling) exhaust on cold starts,

- coolant being consumed (very slowly, takes a month or 2 to run low enough to overheat),

- misfire on cyl 3 when I'm full throttle up a very steep hill,

- cyl 3 looking wet inside (just peeking thru the spark plug hole with a flashlight)

But when I do the little changing color liquid test (combustion leak detection?), the fluid doesn't change color. I've tried it hot, cold, and everything in between. Also made sure the liquid actually works by testing near the tailpipe.

The truck mostly always runs well (after the white smoking stops) as long as I'm not full-throttle up a steep hill.

Is it possible the head gasket leak is bad enough to let coolant into the cylinder but not bad enough to let combustion gasses into the cooling system?

All injectors are OEM cleaned and flow tested in the last 2 years. Spark plugs and wires were done at the same time (plug in cyl 3 ofc is needing replaced). Fuel pump/fuel filter same time.
 
Anybody know whay these two little doodads are under the fuse box and charcoal canister?
 

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Hey guys. I’m replacing my rear shock and springs and ran into the notorious seized top bolt on the rear shocks. Does anyone know if 40”+ bolt cutter will be able to cut through the bushing/rod below the rear mount? I’m not really comfortable using anything that could possibly create a spark that close to the gas tank (sometimes smell gas so would rather not take that risk in case the tank is leaking a little). Any other ideas?

Thanks!!
 
Hey guys. I’m replacing my rear shock and springs and ran into the notorious seized top bolt on the rear shocks. Does anyone know if 40”+ bolt cutter will be able to cut through the bushing/rod below the rear mount? I’m not really comfortable using anything that could possibly create a spark that close to the gas tank (sometimes smell gas so would rather not take that risk in case the tank is leaking a little). Any other ideas?

Thanks!!

ur over thinking said just use a cutting wheel and put up some type of barrier to block the tank from direct sparks (barrier not really necessary) and make sure ur tank if full and not near empty so there r less flumes.
 
Hey guys. I'm trying to program a new key fob for my 3rd gen and it's not working. I've done a little research and I'm wondering if mine even has a key-less entry option. It's a 1996 Limited. There is no little ECM under the drivers seat which led me to think it might have just come from the factory without it.

If it turns out I don't have the control module for the fob, can I buy one and and just wire it to a power source? Thanks!
 
My 4runner is showing symptoms of head gasket issues.

- White, Sweet-smelling (and very raw gas smelling) exhaust on cold starts,

- coolant being consumed (very slowly, takes a month or 2 to run low enough to overheat),

- misfire on cyl 3 when I'm full throttle up a very steep hill,

- cyl 3 looking wet inside (just peeking thru the spark plug hole with a flashlight)

But when I do the little changing color liquid test (combustion leak detection?), the fluid doesn't change color. I've tried it hot, cold, and everything in between. Also made sure the liquid actually works by testing near the tailpipe.

The truck mostly always runs well (after the white smoking stops) as long as I'm not full-throttle up a steep hill.

Is it possible the head gasket leak is bad enough to let coolant into the cylinder but not bad enough to let combustion gasses into the cooling system?

All injectors are OEM cleaned and flow tested in the last 2 years. Spark plugs and wires were done at the same time (plug in cyl 3 ofc is needing replaced). Fuel pump/fuel filter same time.

I would do a compression test of all cylinders just to confirm it is only cylinder 3 then do a leak down test of the cylinder(s) that is out of spec. Combustion gas detector is a quick way to confirm a bad head gasket, but doesn't necessarily eliminate that a head gasket is bad. Could also be a cracked head as well.
 
Bell Housing is cut

New to the forum. Bought a fairly abused 1997 4Runner Limited 4WD V6. Noticed that PO cut a rectangular piece on the bottom of the transmission bell housing about 3 inches wide. No idea why other than I guess check the torque converter without taking transmission apart???

Can I take the rig to a welder and have them weld a piece of metal to cover it? I haven't noticed any problems with the transmission and I recently did a transmission flush a la Timmy the Toolman and tested all the solenoids and all worked OK. I found a few bell housings on eBay which are fairly inexpensive but the thought of removing the transmission is scary. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Impossible oil leak…….. experienced DIYer in need of help.

Hey guys, new member. I’m active on the Facebook group but haven’t ventured here yet. I’m in need of help with a mystery oil leak. It is running down the passenger bellhousing on the transmission from the top. Before you suggest valve covers or plugs/ moons, they’re dry. Recently did those 6 months ago and confirmed with an inspection mirror. This leak is strange, it almost looks like it’s coming out of the coolant plate on the back of the engine. The heads are dry where they meet the block. The bell housing is dry underneath in the center. It is pooling around the cross over manifold and leaking down from there. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
 
Hey guys, new member. I’m active on the Facebook group but haven’t ventured here yet. I’m in need of help with a mystery oil leak. It is running down the passenger bellhousing on the transmission from the top. Before you suggest valve covers or plugs/ moons, they’re dry. Recently did those 6 months ago and confirmed with an inspection mirror. This leak is strange, it almost looks like it’s coming out of the coolant plate on the back of the engine. The heads are dry where they meet the block. The bell housing is dry underneath in the center. It is pooling around the cross over manifold and leaking down from there. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Could it be your rear main seal? I honestly have no clue...

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New to the forum. Bought a fairly abused 1997 4Runner Limited 4WD V6. Noticed that PO cut a rectangular piece on the bottom of the transmission bell housing about 3 inches wide. No idea why other than I guess check the torque converter without taking transmission apart???

Can I take the rig to a welder and have them weld a piece of metal to cover it? I haven't noticed any problems with the transmission and I recently did a transmission flush a la Timmy the Toolman and tested all the solenoids and all worked OK. I found a few bell housings on eBay which are fairly inexpensive but the thought of removing the transmission is scary. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

That would be difficult to weld without preheating the bellhousing. I would just cover it with some aluminum tape and call it good. The correct fix would be to replace the bellhousing.
 
Hey guys, new member. I’m active on the Facebook group but haven’t ventured here yet. I’m in need of help with a mystery oil leak. It is running down the passenger bellhousing on the transmission from the top. Before you suggest valve covers or plugs/ moons, they’re dry. Recently did those 6 months ago and confirmed with an inspection mirror. This leak is strange, it almost looks like it’s coming out of the coolant plate on the back of the engine. The heads are dry where they meet the block. The bell housing is dry underneath in the center. It is pooling around the cross over manifold and leaking down from there. Any suggestion would be appreciated.

I would pull the lower intake manifold to get a better look at it if it's that bad.
 
I would pull the lower intake manifold to get a better look at it if it's that bad.

Thats what im planning on doing let me see if I can attach a picture to show you. Just to further add details, this is non-coolant. There are no freeze plugs leaking. The only thing I can think of is enough oil going through the intake to pool up in the valley and leak like that.... or worst case scenario an external head leak near the rear. This would be extremely rare lol I have not seen one documented case of an external leak of just motor oil from a 5vz yet.
 
Pics attached, yellow is head gasket, red is where it is originating from. You can see why this is pissing me off. Again, it is NOT the valve covers or anything associated with it, otherwise you would see the head wet too, which it is not.
 

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New to the forum. Bought a fairly abused 1997 4Runner Limited 4WD V6. Noticed that PO cut a rectangular piece on the bottom of the transmission bell housing about 3 inches wide. No idea why other than I guess check the torque converter without taking transmission apart???

Can I take the rig to a welder and have them weld a piece of metal to cover it? I haven't noticed any problems with the transmission and I recently did a transmission flush a la Timmy the Toolman and tested all the solenoids and all worked OK. I found a few bell housings on eBay which are fairly inexpensive but the thought of removing the transmission is scary. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'm fairly positive the trans housing is cast aluminum, and if so, you're gonna need a DAMN good welder to fix it. Cast aluminum is EXTREMELY tricky to weld, to the point it's not uncommon for people to turn away the work altogether. You'd be much, much better off replacing the bell housing
Definitely keep an eye on your transmission though, they didn't cut it open for no reason. Like you said I would suspect they were trying to diagnose something
 
Hey everyone, would appreciate some advice. I recently did a cylinder head and gasket replacement but when putting back the crossover pipe with new gaskets, I noticed the flanges didn't mate fully when torquing to spec. This is passenger side. Is this normal and should I just keep cranking? Or is it possible I did something wrong. Pic attached. Also, the studs were seized so I replaced them with a turbo nut and bolt. Car runs but a little noisier than I remember, also some light barely noticeable smoke from the hood area that I think is leaking exhaust.
66cd9ba546efdbb6c38e962ba48f9ad9.jpg


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I would buy an OEM rack and be done with it for another 15-20 years. OEM comes with inner tie rods and boots. Aftermarket steering racks for our vehicles generally are shit and most leak within 1-2 years. Some don't even make it that long.

Is it okay to get a used but OEM rack and pinion? I found one on eBay.

If not, where is the best place to get an OEM rack and pinion? Is this site good?

Thanks.
 
Long travel kit install question

Hello, I installed a Solo Motorsports long travel kit, currently my CV axles are sticking too far through my stock spindles to where the cotter pin hole does not allign with the axle nut slots. Any reason why this might be? Thank you!
 
Hello, I installed a Solo Motorsports long travel kit, currently my CV axles are sticking too far through my stock spindles to where the cotter pin hole does not allign with the axle nut slots. Any reason why this might be? Thank you!

You’re running the Tundra/ Sequoia axles, correct? Sounds like it’s torqued to spec but the nut needs to be turned slightly more to align the hole in the axle with the slot on the nut. Similar to what often happens on the lower ball joint nut. A photo would help confirm that we’re talking about the same scenario. Unless you’re saying the hole in the axle is sticking out past the nut altogether?
 
Is it okay to get a used but OEM rack and pinion? I found one on eBay.

If not, where is the best place to get an OEM rack and pinion? Is this site good?

Thanks.

There's no guarantee that ebay parts that are sold as OEM are actually OEM. I don't have any experience with that website you linked either. Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories: Official Online Store | Autoparts.toyota.com is the only official OEM Toyota parts website in the US. There's a few others that sell OEM toyota parts, but shipping is going to be expensive if they ship at all.
 
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