The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[2002runner]

2002 4runner door lock key fob issue

Hello all,

Let me know if there’s a better thread to post this in. This is a new issue that came out of nowhere. The keyfob will only lock

2002 Toyota 4runner limited

-Key fob will ONLY lock(unlock button and window button do not work)
-All door locks actuate with key unlocked and locked
-drivers side lock button does NOT work(unlock does work)(I have replaced this button 2 times and verified with a wire that the contact is not responding
-passenger side lock and unlock buttons work
-rear passenger window up/down works
-all windows and sunroof work

I have replaced the kick panel fuse box 3 times as suggested in other threads
All fuses are good
Because driver door lock button does not work I have not been able to get into key fob programming mode (tried using passenger lock unlock buttons but did not work)
Key fob buttons are all functioning with an RF tester, battery is fresh, board is clean.

Every single other thing on the vehicle is working properly

I need ideas for where to go next because I’ve done just about everything to replace or diagnose with no success. When the issue started there was no prior power loss from battery, no other issue before it started happening.

 

[bigthings]

ISO Digital Clock "contact springs"

Just bought my brand new '99 4WD SR5 last month and sent the clock to Module Masters in ID (great experience, would recommend)

Unfortunately the previous owner either pilfered the contact springs or replaced with a non functioning clock.

I now have a totally re-soldered clock module, all I'm missing are the (4) contact springs which make it go boom.

My questions are:
A.) Do you have a beat clock module with springs intact that you'd like to sell me?!

OR

B.) do you have a caliper that you can take a spring from your module and provide me:
-Wire Diameter
-OD
-ID
-Uncompressed height
-Compressed height
So l can have a run of these springs made and offer them of for sale to the poor chap who for some godforsaken reason really just wanted this old ass digital clock to work?

Thanks anyone who has read this far.

 

[Endlessblockades]

Dumb question, but does the reddish clip on the constant tension style radiator hose clamps want to slide off sideways or pop up and off?

 

[96RedRunner]

Dumb question, but does the reddish clip on the constant tension style radiator hose clamps want to slide off sideways or pop up and off?

Don't do it, 1st time using flat blade looked natural to pop it off, not, zing clang gone. :biggrin1:

More controlled event pushing to side.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Dumb question, but does the reddish clip on the constant tension style radiator hose clamps want to slide off sideways or pop up and off?

I pull on those retaining clips with pliers once the clamp is in position, straight out. Usually they have a little tang that makes it easier to grab and pull:

 

[Endlessblockades]

Don't do it, 1st time using flat blade looked natural to pop it off, not, zing clang gone. :biggrin1:

More controlled event pushing to side.

I pull on those retaining clips with pliers once the clamp is in position, straight out. Usually they have a little tang that makes it easier to grab and pull:

Thanks guys. I figured the little bugger might act like a JEEEZUS! Clip when it came free. Been decades since I used a proper clamp

 

[gh25_]

Rear axle seals

Hi all

I think it is unfortunately time to do my rear axle seals. I have had my 3rd gen for about 2 years now but still one of the few things I haven't done yet. I am looking to sell her for a 4th gen 4x4 v8. I had an opportunity come up where someone I know was interested in my truck. Really want 4x4 and a v8! But anyways the past week I noticed a drip forming from the bottom of the rear passenger brake drum. Little frustrating because it decides to do this when I am trying to sell her haha. But I can't leave the new owner with that leak. I had seeped very slightly before but now it's forming a drip. Wanted to ask a question. I know you can replace stuff while your doing the axle seals like the wheel bearings, abs rings, etc but I don't want to go that deep into this job, just want to make it not leak again. I have checked my wheel bearings for play on a jack stand and they've both felt super solid no play side to side and up and down. Could I get away with / be fine with just replacing the axle seal itself? If I were to do the full 9 yards this job would probably end up costing me 700 bucks, I am not willing to spend that on it right now. What do you guys think? Really hoping I can just replace seals! Having to do all that pressing stuff doesn't sound like fun, I don't have a press either i'd have to have someone else do it

thanks!

 

[phattyduck]

Could I get away with / be fine with just replacing the axle seal itself? If I were to do the full 9 yards this job would probably end up costing me 700 bucks, I am not willing to spend that on it right now. What do you guys think? Really hoping I can just replace seals! Having to do all that pressing stuff doesn't sound like fun, I don't have a press either i'd have to have someone else do it

thanks!

Get a needle for you grease gun to repack the wheel bearings with grease, replace the seal and clean it up. That hopefully will get you (and the new owner) a decent amount of time. Hopefully it hasn't ruined your rear shoes.

-Charlie

 

[Noobie707]

Suspension question

02 4runner. Has a 3in lift and the panhard correction kit on it. It also has some ebay shitty rear adjustable control arms. My question is can I get rid of them and use stock ones with the 3in lift or do I have to have adjustable ones on there?

 

[96RedRunner]

02 4runner. Has a 3in lift and the panhard correction kit on it. It also has some ebay shitty rear adjustable control arms. My question is can I get rid of them and use stock ones with the 3in lift or do I have to have adjustable ones on there?

OE length works with 3" lift, work with 4" lift LC 8 wrap springs also.

 

[96RedRunner]

I pull

There is that my luck has been 1 in 10 getting pull tab 01 refurb have had to adapt.
Rotate pic 90* CCW looks as giving the bird :biggrin1:

 

[gh25_]

Get a needle for you grease gun to repack the wheel bearings with grease, replace the seal and clean it up. That hopefully will get you (and the new owner) a decent amount of time. Hopefully it hasn't ruined your rear shoes.

-Charlie

Okay sounds good! Yeah... not sure about the brake shoes lol... I am going to open the drum up and attempt to clean them out very well so well see if that works. But thanks for that tip. I ordered the seals last Friday and I will get a thing for my grease gun so I can throw some fresh grease in there. Going to try and check again for play in the bearing when the whole shaft assy. is out. We'll see what happens. Thanks again charlie

 

[craeg_the_kraken]

Hey all,

I just purchased my 4runner last Monday, registered it and got inspection this past Friday. It passed.

On saturday, I take it to NH on the highway and on the way off the exit, I I hear the vehicle exhaust get louder.

As I approach a stop light the exhaust is louder and the idle is now rough.

Has anyone experienced an exhaust leak appear to happen so quickly?


Thanks,

Craig

 

[JoeT4R]

Hey all,

I just purchased my 4runner last Monday, registered it and got inspection this past Friday. It passed.

On saturday, I take it to NH on the highway and on the way off the exit, I I hear the vehicle exhaust get louder.

As I approach a stop light the exhaust is louder and the idle is now rough.

Has anyone experienced an exhaust leak appear to happen so quickly?


Thanks,

Craig

It could be just bad timing? I don't really know. Are you throwing any codes? Any visual leaks that you can see while the truck is in park when you peek under the vehicle? Is the smell of exhaust coming into the cabin at all? This happened to me a few years ago while on a road trip. Exhaust fumes started to enter the cabin while I was driving and I was like woah that isn't normal. When I arrived at my destination, I looked under the vehicle (thankfully it was winter time) and I noticed that my muffler had essentially burst at the seams and was leaking out of the side.

 

[Ian24]

97 SR5 Fenders

Hi all, new to the page hope this is the right place to put this I recently purchased a 97 SR5 with the chrome trim fenders but was wanting to add the SR5 plastic fender flares. Would anyone know if it’s even possible to get those oem anymore and if so what the part numbers would be? Thanks!

 

[phattyduck]

Hi all, new to the page hope this is the right place to put this I recently purchased a 97 SR5 with the chrome trim fenders but was wanting to add the SR5 plastic fender flares. Would anyone know if it’s even possible to get those oem anymore and if so what the part numbers would be? Thanks!

These are LONG out of production. Like, stopped before the end of 3rd gen production since the black 'skinny' flares stopped in '99. You have all the right holes/parts on your truck to install them if you can find the parts. Make sure you get the door clips...

-Charlie

 

[CBurrows24]

Hatch control module issues

Hey guys, I’m having some pretty interesting electrical issues with my hatch control module

-Open door switch does not light up
-dome light doesn’t light up
-rear window no longer works (it did previously)
-defrost doesn’t work/light up
-key fob no longer locks/unlocks, but when hatch is open the door open chime sounds…

HOWEVER I can still roll the window down with the key switch in the hatch

I’ve checked the common wiring that breaks In the rubber boot, I’ve checked the control module for power, key power, and ground. All wires from hatch to body have continuity…

I’ve been chasing this issue for WAY TOO LONG
Any ideas?

 

[3bears]

Hey guys, I’m having some pretty interesting electrical issues with my hatch control module

-Open door switch does not light up
-dome light doesn’t light up
-rear window no longer works (it did previously)
-defrost doesn’t work/light up
-key fob no longer locks/unlocks, but when hatch is open the door open chime sounds…

HOWEVER I can still roll the window down with the key switch in the hatch

I’ve checked the common wiring that breaks In the rubber boot, I’ve checked the control module for power, key power, and ground. All wires from hatch to body have continuity…

I’ve been chasing this issue for WAY TOO LONG
Any ideas?

have you opened the hatch to look at all the wires etc, did you watch timmys video on window not working or replacing the rear window, it has good info in it

 

[ishboo22]

Hey everyone, new to the forum, hope this is an appropriate location for now. Usually more of a lurker, the search just didn't solve all my problems this time.
Long story short, recently acquired a 160k 5vz to replace my blown head gasket 300k engine. This is all above my pay grade, but doin my best to learn. Are these cams in bad shape? ok to run? I haven't compared yet to the 300k engine. If I change cams in some capacity, am I messing with the valves and all that, or I can swap my used cams in, no big deal(sounds wrong as I type it)?
Trying to keep the swap as straight forward/cheap as possible, but I plan on having the rig long term, so want to do it right in some capacity.
Appreciate any insight.
Shared album - Jeff Woolson - Google Photos
Shared album - Jeff Woolson - Google Photos

 

[craeg_the_kraken]

It could be just bad timing? I don't really know. Are you throwing any codes? Any visual leaks that you can see while the truck is in park when you peek under the vehicle? Is the smell of exhaust coming into the cabin at all? This happened to me a few years ago while on a road trip. Exhaust fumes started to enter the cabin while I was driving and I was like woah that isn't normal. When I arrived at my destination, I looked under the vehicle (thankfully it was winter time) and I noticed that my muffler had essentially burst at the seams and was leaking out of the side.

Thanks for the response Joe.
Everyone once and a while I get a whiff of exhaust, but it's summer so haven't driven with the windows up very much ;-)

Don't know about codes yet, I don't have one, but going to have them checked out.

The thing is that, I drove the vehicle for a week. Everything throttle felt tight, but after the exhaust leak, the engine started rough idling at now/low rpms so that's why in my mind they are linked. I'll post what I found out.