The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[phattyduck]

I just made this account to ask this question so i am unable to start a new thread, so my girlfriends 01 4runner has begun having a vibration thats getting noticeably worse only while accelerating after letting off the throttle it smooths out instantly, doesn't appear to be specific gear related or engine roughness. There is also a noticeable thud when starting from a standstill occasionally but not constantly.


Ive seen suggested a carrier bearing but appears the 01 model year doesnt have a carrier bearing, if its the u-joints i take it replacing the whole drive shaft is the better option? is there a slip yoke would that go bad?

No carrier bearing on the 4Runner - that's a Taco only thing (longer wheelbase) If its a 2WD, replace the whole shaft. If it is a 4WD, there is a slip yoke and double-cardan that both can have issues, along with the rear u-joint or either yoke (T-case output or diff input). Get under there and see what is loose.

-Charlie

 

[FarNorth2ndgen]

No carrier bearing on the 4Runner - that's a Taco only thing (longer wheelbase) If its a 2WD, replace the whole shaft. If it is a 4WD, there is a slip yoke and double-cardan that both can have issues, along with the rear u-joint or either yoke (T-case output or diff input). Get under there and see what is loose.

-Charlie

its a 4WD, im thinking best option is to just parts cannon it and replace everything between the transmission and the rear diff?
if i have tom woods build a new driveshaft what other parts would i need?
Toyota 4Runner Double Cardan Rear Drive Shaft – Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts

 

[NachesPass4x4]

I'm replacing everything on the front end. Ball joints, new lower control arms, alignment cams, etc. I half ass poorly marked the location of the old cams but it looks like I'll end up pretty far off . Is it same to assume I can reinstall everything with the new alignment cams all out of wack, back the 4runner out of the garage and onto a trailer without causing any damage? Plan is to tow it to a shop for new tires and an alignment.

 

[phattyduck]

I'm replacing everything on the front end. Ball joints, new lower control arms, alignment cams, etc. I half ass poorly marked the location of the old cams but it looks like I'll end up pretty far off . Is it same to assume I can reinstall everything with the new alignment cams all out of wack, back the 4runner out of the garage and onto a trailer without causing any damage? Plan is to tow it to a shop for new tires and an alignment.

Do an "eyeball" alignment and get it close-ish. You can drive it to a shop unless you live out in the boonies.

-Charlie

 

[NachesPass4x4]

Do an "eyeball" alignment and get it close-ish. You can drive it to a shop unless you live out in the boonies.

-Charlie

By eyeball alignment are you saying to get everything reassembled to where the tires appear straight and that is close enough?


Also, as far as reassembly goes, can you confirm I've got this right?

Install upper and lower control arms
Install CV axle into diff
Install upper and lower ball joints onto knuckle
Install knuckle onto truck
install steering rack.


This is my first time working on IFS, so I'm learning as I go here.

 

[AuSeeker]

By eyeball alignment are you saying to get everything reassembled to where the tires appear straight and that is close enough?


Also, as far as reassembly goes, can you confirm I've got this right?

Install upper and lower control arms
Install CV axle into diff
Install upper and lower ball joints onto knuckle
Install knuckle onto truck
install steering rack.


This is my first time working on IFS, so I'm learning as I go here.

Youtube is your friend, you can find videos to cover most everything, even the getting the alignment close.

 

[toverturf]

its a 4WD, im thinking best option is to just parts cannon it and replace everything between the transmission and the rear diff?
if i have tom woods build a new driveshaft what other parts would i need?
Toyota 4Runner Double Cardan Rear Drive Shaft – Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts

You shouldn't need any other parts except the drive shaft.

 

[96RedRunner]

By eyeball alignment are you saying to get everything reassembled to where the tires appear straight and that is close enough?

1st thing Mark cam adjusters before loosening reassembly will be what alignment was before job.

 

[NachesPass4x4]

1st thing Mark cam adjusters before loosening reassembly will be what alignment was before job.

Yes, lesson learned. I did mark them but pretty poorly and a couple of the marks got removed while cleaning. I'm towing this thing in for tires and alignment. So unless someone tells me I'm risking damage driving it onto the trailer, which I assume isn't an issue, I'm not to worried about it.

 

[phattyduck]

By eyeball alignment are you saying to get everything reassembled to where the tires appear straight and that is close enough?

Yes, exactly. The front and rear track are close enough that you can just make the fronts line up with the back and get the tires to look like they are straight up and down and it will be plenty good to drive around a few miles - even maybe longer if you want the suspension to settle for a week or so (of short drives) before the alignment. If you are close with the caster up near the top of the range (lower ball joint forward), it will make life easy for the alignment tech.

As for assembly order, there's no real right way. If you make sure all the pivots are snug but not tight when you drop it down, then tighten those at ride height (inner arm pivot bolts - 1 up top and two below on each side).

-Charlie

 

[3bears]

......

As for assembly order, there's no real right way. If you make sure all the pivots are snug but not tight when you drop it down, then tighten those at ride height (inner arm pivot bolts - 1 up top and two below on each side).

-Charlie

can a person just put a jack under lower ball joint and lift it ( with wheel off) to "ride height" seems that would make it easier to get to all the bolts to do final tighten

 

[NachesPass4x4]

Ok, it's all back together. I'll wait until I get the other side done and install the new steering rack before I set it back on the ground and torque the control arms.

 

[96RedRunner]

can a person just put a jack under lower ball joint and lift it ( with wheel off) to "ride height" seems that would make it easier to get to all the bolts to do final tighten

Ding ding ding you have won the jackpot!

Went 6112 5160 Oct 20 on 4th front setup tinkering, 96Red same over time. Up in air & 1/2" torque wrench
like peas and carrots.

 

[96RedRunner]

Yes, lesson learned. I did mark them but pretty poorly and a couple of the marks got removed while cleaning. I'm towing this thing in for tires and alignment. So unless someone tells me I'm risking damage driving it onto the trailer, which I assume isn't an issue, I'm not to worried about it.

Look for signs where cam plate may have been a while.
The marks you still have match them up duplicate opposite side be ballpark.
Since you a trailer snug everything up leave bolts easy for tech drop it off a good plan.
Not going to hurt Runner.

 

[phattyduck]

can a person just put a jack under lower ball joint and lift it ( with wheel off) to "ride height" seems that would make it easier to get to all the bolts to do final tighten

Yes, though you'll probably need to have the swaybar off to do this easily/reliably.

I drop it down on a set of ramps that give enough height for access, then bounce a few times before tightening.

-Charlie

 

[NachesPass4x4]

How NOT to set off the air bag?

I have never owned a vehicle with an air bag system. I'm wanting to remove the passenger seatbelt to access the nuts for the rear passenger door. I see the seat belt tensioner has an explosive initiator warning on it. Can I remove and reinstall this as long as the battery is disconnected, is there anything else I need to be aware of?

I also unbolted (not unplugged) the air bag sensors under the hood, in order to remove upper control arms. I didn't even think about this then. This thing isn't going to blow up when I get it all back together and hook up the battery, is it?

 

[phattyduck]

How NOT to set off the air bag?

I have never owned a vehicle with an air bag system. I'm wanting to remove the passenger seatbelt to access the nuts for the rear passenger door. I see the seat belt tensioner has an explosive initiator warning on it. Can I remove and reinstall this as long as the battery is disconnected, is there anything else I need to be aware of?

I also unbolted (not unplugged) the air bag sensors under the hood, in order to remove upper control arms. I didn't even think about this then. This thing isn't going to blow up when I get it all back together and hook up the battery, is it?

As long as the battery is disconnected when you are messing with those things, you are fine.

-Charlie

 

[Gannon]

Clicking Noise

Hi, I recently replaced my front right CV axle. I replaced it with one from Napa because my boot ripped on the previous one, I didn’t hear any noise previous to replacing it. However now sometimes when I reverse and turn left I hear clicking. It usually only happens when I am going fairly fast.

Could I have installed the CV incorrectly, is it something else, any ideas?

Thanks

 

[Jack99]

Boost

I have a 1999 with the 5vz-fe that I recently threw a turbo on, the thought process was that you could supercharge these motors without turning, but honestly it runs like shit. I'm running about 4 lbs of boost. After a few weeks of flying blind I put in a wideband and any time I let off the throttle the afr drops to a 10. Then shortly after it stalls. I know the only thing that will fix the problem is going to a standalone, but I'm looking for a bandaid to put on this issue until I can afford it

 

[alia176]

I have a 1999 with the 5vz-fe that I recently threw a turbo on, the thought process was that you could supercharge these motors without turning, but honestly it runs like shit. I'm running about 4 lbs of boost. After a few weeks of flying blind I put in a wideband and any time I let off the throttle the afr drops to a 10. Then shortly after it stalls. I know the only thing that will fix the problem is going to a standalone, but I'm looking for a bandaid to put on this issue until I can afford it

This project is badass. Have you started a thread on it? If not, mind starting one because you're the only turbo'ed 3.4 engine that I know of. Doing this might help others find the info faster.

I turboed my 80 series engine but my daughter wants more power out of her 3.4! I can only speak to my 9 lbs of boost on the 4.5 1FZ-FE engine. It also has a factory ECU that is capable of a supercharger up to 6psi so I'm pushing it just a tad.

I learned couple of things during this process. Using factory cats and mufflers WILL introduce a massive backpressure but your 4psi should still be noticeable. Second thing is to eliminate boost leaks using a smoke machine. Every single vac hose needs to be replaced regardless of their "softness". Reason being the ends may have split by now and they're stretched.

I'm using a J exhaust pipe and the T4 turbo sits on top. I replaced the entire exhaust with 2.5" mandrel bent sections that I put together myself. I HATE exhaust welding but it had to be done to properly allow the engine to exhale.

Anyway, hopefully I contributed to your quest for more power.