The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Kanoe]

Really the only option to fix a cracked exhaust manifold is to replace the exhaust manifold. I'm not very familiar with the 3RZ so what are you calling the " water valve"? Are you referring to the water pump or the valve for the heater core?

A cracked manifold on a 3rz seems common. The easiest fix is a 3rz mini header swap. The old one is cast iron. The new is a welded steel part. It fits right in, direct replacement. Search 3rz mini header and you should get all the info you need. This is still a Toyota part, just from a newer Tacoma 3rz.

It’s not that difficult to change, I did mine in a campground outside of Phoenix. You need a lot of gaskets and studs and nuts. It’s hard to find a complete parts list. Member [MENTION=78895]DeathCougar[/MENTION] sells a complete kit all assembled for you.

Check your valve clearances while you are in there, most common thing to kill a 3rz if ignored.

 

[Novice 4Runner]

I'm not very familiar with the 3RZ so what are you calling the " water valve"? Are you referring to the water pump or the valve for the heater core?

Actually not sure if I combined the two. I'll have to take a look at what the quote actually said.

 

[Novice 4Runner]

A cracked manifold on a 3rz seems common. The easiest fix is a 3rz mini header swap. The old one is cast iron. The new is a welded steel part. It fits right in, direct replacement. Search 3rz mini header and you should get all the info you need. This is still a Toyota part, just from a newer Tacoma 3rz.

It’s not that difficult to change, I did mine in a campground outside of Phoenix. You need a lot of gaskets and studs and nuts. It’s hard to find a complete parts list. Member [MENTION=78895]DeathCougar[/MENTION] sells a complete kit all assembled for you.

Check your valve clearances while you are in there, most common thing to kill a 3rz if ignored.

Would most shops do that manifold/header swap, even though it's not the exact part for the exact model? And any idea what checking valve clearances would run at a shop? Or at least how many hours labor they might charge?

 

[spartacus]

I cleaned everything but the same problem persists. Light works with ON setting but not with DOOR (even when other systems in the truck tell me that the doors are open).

The power to the dome light is constant.'The door switch grounds when the door is opened activating the light. Check the wiring in the door loom and the switch.

 

[Rice88]

The power to the dome light is constant.'The door switch grounds when the door is opened activating the light. Check the wiring in the door loom and the switch.

This is very helpful. Thanks! Is this system on a special fuse? Both the front and rear dome lights have the same problem.

 

[spartacus]

This is very helpful. Thanks! Is this system on a special fuse? Both the front and rear dome lights have the same problem.

The dome fuse is key off power for radio, antenna, combination meter etc. The fuse is located in the engine fuse box.

 

[Kanoe]

Would most shops do that manifold/header swap, even though it's not the exact part for the exact model? And any idea what checking valve clearances would run at a shop? Or at least how many hours labor they might charge?

I don’t see any reason for a shop to refuse the header upgrade. It’s just a newer part for the same engine. Direct fit, still Toyota, no mods needed.

I asked about a valve adjustment at my dealer years ago. I think I was told 6 hours (or maybe $600) can’t remember for certain. It’s a relatively straight forward procedure to measure and document existing clearances. It only becomes a logistical job once you need to order shims from the dealer.

I have checked mine 2 times and made changes 1 time in the 8-9 years I’ve had the runner. Takes a while but I go slow and careful. I’d allow myself 6-8 hours from start to finish.

 

[Zbarsuglia]

Hopefully this is allowed.

2002 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4 x 4 locking rear low miles - cars &...

I am looking at this 4runner that was recently posted but I am skeptical of it.
The guy said it's the original carpet and original seats. I can't find any info anywhere stating that these seats are in fact an option.

Can anyone take a look and advise if I should be skeptical? The carpet looks to be half-assed replaced.

I am awaiting the carfax to run one myself and run a vin check on the options from the factory. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Devbot]

Hopefully this is allowed.

2002 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4 x 4 locking rear low miles - cars &...

I am looking at this 4runner that was recently posted but I am skeptical of it.
The guy said it's the original carpet and original seats. I can't find any info anywhere stating that these seats are in fact an option.

Can anyone take a look and advise if I should be skeptical? The carpet looks to be half-assed replaced.

I am awaiting the carfax to run one myself and run a vin check on the options from the factory. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Both not original.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Hopefully this is allowed.

2002 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4 x 4 locking rear low miles - cars &...

I am looking at this 4runner that was recently posted but I am skeptical of it.
The guy said it's the original carpet and original seats. I can't find any info anywhere stating that these seats are in fact an option.

Can anyone take a look and advise if I should be skeptical? The carpet looks to be half-assed replaced.

I am awaiting the carfax to run one myself and run a vin check on the options from the factory. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

And no locking rear on 2002's.

 

[Zbarsuglia]

Both not original.

this guy is a scammer - carfax showing accidents and 300k miles. best $40 i ever spent

 

[cruisectrl]

First post as a long time lurker--and I have 2 questions:

1. I recently grabbed a set of four 5th gen 17" takeoffs for my 2000 Limited 4WD. I still have a stock 16" spare. I want to run 32s on the new wheels (265/70R17, specifically) but don't know what to do about the spare. If I were to run a 265/75R16 spare (which is the same 32" diameter, just on the smaller wheel), is there anything I need to worry about? Or do I need to scavenge for a 17" spare?

2. Lift question: currently have '99 tall springs which are alright, but I'm probably going to be adding some weight (front plate bumper, full roof rack, drawers in the back). I'm interested in the 2" variable rate lift springs from Dobinsons and probably 5100s but don't necessarily need 2" of lift. Can one run lift springs at lower than advertised ride height (say only 1" lift on a 2" spring)? And how does running an adjustable shock on a lower/the lowest perch affect ride quality? Would doing something like this wear those suspension components out prematurely?

 

[Bad Luck]

First post as a long time lurker--and I have 2 questions:

1. I recently grabbed a set of four 5th gen 17" takeoffs for my 2000 Limited 4WD. I still have a stock 16" spare. I want to run 32s on the new wheels (265/70R17, specifically) but don't know what to do about the spare. If I were to run a 265/75R16 spare (which is the same 32" diameter, just on the smaller wheel), is there anything I need to worry about? Or do I need to scavenge for a 17" spare?
The size difference between spare tire and your new tires is negligible and will not affect the vehicle if you need to use the spare. But if you are really set on it you should be able to fit a 265/75R16 spare in the stock location without rubbing anything.

2. Lift question: currently have '99 tall springs which are alright, but I'm probably going to be adding some weight (front plate bumper, full roof rack, drawers in the back). I'm interested in the 2" variable rate lift springs from Dobinsons and probably 5100s but don't necessarily need 2" of lift. Can one run lift springs at lower than advertised ride height (say only 1" lift on a 2" spring)? And how does running an adjustable shock on a lower/the lowest perch affect ride quality? Would doing something like this wear those suspension components out prematurely?
There is no downside to running lower front suspension height from a wear/tear and ride comfort viewpoint. As a general rule the higher you lift the front the worse the ride quality gets. The only thing I am unsure of is if the Dobinson springs and Bilstein shocks will allow for the correct amount of adjustability and ride height. Not many people in the 3rd gen section have Dobinson suspension components let alone try to mix and match. It may be fine or it may be like using OME 883 springs with Bilstein shocks. (On the lowest setting of Bilstein shocks the OME 883 springs will net around 3 inches of lift.)

My thoughts/answers in bold.

 

[Mudflaps]

So, I'm halfway through doing a timing belt and water pump job. I reinserted the crank bolt to properly time the engine but.....now I cant back the crank pulley bolt back out....you know the struggle Im sure.

I cant do the old wrap a belt onto itself trick since the belt and tensioner are already on. Anyone have any other clever ideas?

Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

 

[diverscale]

So, I'm halfway through doing a timing belt and water pump job. I reinserted the crank bolt to properly time the engine but.....now I cant back the crank pulley bolt back out....you know the struggle Im sure.

I cant do the old wrap a belt onto itself trick since the belt and tensioner are already on. Anyone have any other clever ideas?

Sent from my SM-A215U using Tapatalk

I personally use an impact, but if you don't have access to that, use a screwdriver or something at the flywheel's tooth to stop it from turning. (opposite side of engine compared to your crank bolt, behind)

Don't remember exactly the 4runner, but search in the area of the starter and it's gear to find a suitable place to fork-in the screwdriver.

If the belt is on you could also try to find a way to hold the cam gears together and prevent them from turning, but those are far away on a V6, so... might be best to try the screwdriver

if it's a manual, just engage it in 1st gear and apply parking brake

 

[thekiefthief]

Question about 3" lift and control arms / Sway Bar

Hi all! I recently got a 1997 Limited Runner, and put a 3" Tough Country Suspension lift on it. The issue I am having is at the shop, the guy who installed the lift kit told me that, "It would be a good idea to get adjustable rods for the rear suspension. One is called a lateral arm the other is rear upper control arms. Will also need rear extended sway bar links.

Front suspension: need extended upper control arm to change the pitch of the ball joints.

I can find the front extended upper control arm no problem, but I can't seem to find what I'm needing for the rear. Anyone have any recommendations for any of this stuff?

I'm new to all of this so any help would seriously be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Devbot]

Hi all! I recently got a 1997 Limited Runner, and put a 3" Tough Country Suspension lift on it. The issue I am having is at the shop, the guy who installed the lift kit told me that, "It would be a good idea to get adjustable rods for the rear suspension. One is called a lateral arm the other is rear upper control arms. Will also need rear extended sway bar links.

Front suspension: need extended upper control arm to change the pitch of the ball joints.

I can find the front extended upper control arm no problem, but I can't seem to find what I'm needing for the rear. Anyone have any recommendations for any of this stuff?

I'm new to all of this so any help would seriously be appreciated. Thanks!

The correct term for the rear control arms are "trailing arms" or and the lateral arm is a "panhard bar"/"track bar"; sometimes all of them are referred to as track bars in general. That would probably help your search a lot, I'm sure you noticed searching for control arms gives you all sorts of results. What he's referring to, or at least what I imagine, is something like Apoc's adjustable trailing arms which can be lengthened/shortened as desired - however I would be very skeptical of you actually needing them with just a 3in lift, the stocks ones should be able to handle it just fine. If anything look into replacing the bushings in them first. Many here run a 4.0-4.5in lift in the back from LC coils/shocks and even then they find little need for aftermarket trailing arms, however if they DO opt for one it's typically the panhard bar. But with that said, it's also dependent on how hard you wheel your vehicle, and if it's something you're dead set on regardless go ahead. It won't hurt your car any, just your wallet!
On that note, in regards to the panhard you should look into EimKeith's PCK (panhard correction kit.) They're brackets you weld to the frame over the existing location that allow your bar to sit much more level than it ever did originally which is exactly what you want; for it to be as level as possible. If welding isn't an option then you could look at an adjustable panhard from Sonoran Steel or someone, but it'll be more expensive and I've heard some hit-or-miss things about them
In regards to sway bar links, you have a few options; run no sway bar at all (just be mindful on taking corners too fast), buy some extended pairs (Mstudt makes them but they're pricey though), make them yourself (weld on an extension), or use 2nd gen rear links in front and 3rd gen front links in rear (both 1in longer)
You may or may not want to look into extended brake lines too. At this age those OEM soft lines will snap in an instant if you try and use them as limiting straps

 

[JoeT4R]

I need a good CB antenna mount. Suggestions other than Rago fabrication? I don’t wanna drill

 

[cl4Rk]

I need a good CB antenna mount. Suggestions other than Rago fabrication? I don’t wanna drill

True North Fabrications:
3RD GEN 4RUNNER CB ANTENNA MOUNT | TNF BRACKETS

 

[thekiefthief]

Awesome thank you so much!!!