The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[CougarHound]

I can't decide if I want to sell my 3rd gen. I barely drive it these days and I don't take it out in the snow anymore because I don't want it to rust. I have another 1978 MGB project car that I need to fix up. I also have a Prius that I commute in and the Wife drives a Sienna. Doing maintenance for 4 cars is just getting annoying.

In fact I think I'm just hanging onto it out of spite. My coworkers are massive Toyota haters. Makes me feel good seeing them trade in their brand new POS lemons as I drive by them in my 20 year truck.

 

[FD7683]

I just had a near catastrophic wheel bearing failure -- I thought I had wheel vibration due to bad alignment, and when I brought it in they told me the bearing was about to fall out of the wheel. They were right it was so loose that there was 1/2" of play in it. I pressed it out and it came out in 4 pieces.

So now what I'm wondering is, can I reuse my knuckle? I'm guessing the answer is no, but want a second opinion. I definitely need a new ABS rotor, but I can't tell if the damage to the knuckle is enough to be a problem. Not sure if these pictures give a good sense, but it looks like the old ABS rotor carved a groove in the outer part of the hub. Does that matter if I'm going to disable ABS anyway?

I wouldn't re-use the knuckle if I were you because of the damage but what do I know, maybe its reusable? If the snap ring groove is gone the knuckle is done. If your truck uses ABS components, use ABS stuff just incase you need to re-instate the system later on.

 

[Devbot]

I just had a near catastrophic wheel bearing failure -- I thought I had wheel vibration due to bad alignment, and when I brought it in they told me the bearing was about to fall out of the wheel. They were right it was so loose that there was 1/2" of play in it. I pressed it out and it came out in 4 pieces.

So now what I'm wondering is, can I reuse my knuckle? I'm guessing the answer is no, but want a second opinion. I definitely need a new ABS rotor, but I can't tell if the damage to the knuckle is enough to be a problem. Not sure if these pictures give a good sense, but it looks like the old ABS rotor carved a groove in the outer part of the hub. Does that matter if I'm going to disable ABS anyway?

Clean up the races with some scotch-brite and WD40, it'll give you a better idea of any damage (a sandblaster would be preferred if available, with gentle media and set to a low pressure). It's hard to tell from the pictures, I want to lean towards yes you're fine - it looks apparently minimal and localized to a tiny area - but Im not gonna definitively say so from how little I see. A good rule of thumb for checking damage is if you can feel it with your fingernail, you should be concerned - if you can feel it with your finger tip, you should be worried. The PROPER way to check would be to clean it up and get check for serious ovality with an ID mic, so if you have access to those you could absolutely check, but not everyone does and I'm certainly not sure what you do for work or what tools you have access to. A two point bore gauge would work too which are a little more common (not a three point.) Trying to check with calipers would be a last resort but better than nothing
If you're deleting ABS then it's not gonna matter about the groove. However it is interesting because nothing should be touching that race; the ABS ring and axle spacer should only be riding the wheel hub snout. I would investigate further if you decide to reuse them
Is this your daily driver/is this repair needing done ASAP? Conveniently enough I'm actually about to replace my knuckles with some rebuilt ones this weekend, and was gonna press out the old bearings and sell the knuckles on the forum afterwards. If you want some a new set for cheap and can do without them for a couple days, I could have the box out the door on Monday. I'll even blast all the old paint and rust off

 

[Devbot]

Can anyone help with a link or write up or replacing pinion bearing? I’m getting a humming noise when I accelerate and decelerate after replacing wheel bearings. I had a shop check and they confirmed the noise is from the differential but said to determine what part it is would be $1,400 in labor plus parts. I’m not in the positions to lay that down so looking at options, including swapping out or rebuilding myself. Any advice on this job would be appreciated, I’m not sure if this is outside of my skills or not.

For half that you could buy a whole new diff from ECGS and have it swapped out in a couple hours with nothing more than a few wrenches/sockets and a couple jacks. Timmy has videos on both replacing and rebuilding. The only easier diff to work on would probably be a Ford 9"
3RD Member Replacement - YouTube
ECGS Toyota 8" Rear Differential ReGear/Rebuild (with CEO Chase Perry) - YouTube

 

[Bad Luck]

Can anyone help with a link or write up or replacing pinion bearing? I’m getting a humming noise when I accelerate and decelerate after replacing wheel bearings. I had a shop check and they confirmed the noise is from the differential but said to determine what part it is would be $1,400 in labor plus parts. I’m not in the positions to lay that down so looking at options, including swapping out or rebuilding myself. Any advice on this job would be appreciated, I’m not sure if this is outside of my skills or not.

To replace the pinion bearing on the rear 3rd member will require disassembling the entire differential which will require special tools and knowledge to reassemble and setup the backlash and preload. I'd recommend either buying a good used rear diff or buying a diff from East Coast Gear Supply and swapping the entire diff yourself.

 

[96RedRunner]

What PSI are you guys running on yours? Thanks.

I start with the chalk test, drive it pay attention to amount sidewall rolls in turns how it feels changing lanes over crown in road.
If steering heavy in turns wiggles changing lanes I raise psi till it feels right. 35-39 psi usually for 265-75's or 285's E's.

 

[96RedRunner]

What Grille for this?

Been thinking on it for a while 8" dia.

 

[Storm01]

I start with the chalk test, drive it pay attention to amount sidewall rolls in turns how it feels changing lanes over crown in road.
If steering heavy in turns wiggles changing lanes I raise psi till it feels right. 35-39 psi usually for 265-75's or 285's E's.

Thanks for the advice. Decided to set it to 37-38. Feels good. Unfortunately where I live, my neighborhood doesn’t have very long roads to do a chalk test on “properly”.

 

[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=672690]Storm01[/MENTION], A 25-50 foot good surface stretch all you need down & back.
Mall crawling good for something, chalk em use bicycle pump to tweak em at da mall.

 

[Storm01]

[MENTION=672690]Storm01[/MENTION], A 25-50 foot good surface stretch all you need down & back.
Mall crawling good for something, chalk em use bicycle pump to tweak em at da mall.

Noted, thanks. I appreciate it.

Also I love that subwoofer setup you have that utilizes the back storage area. If you don’t mind me asking, how did you wire it up and cut it to fit? I have a 10” sub in the back and hate the bulky box that it has; always have wanted something more low-profile.

 

[jlevers]

Clean up the races with some scotch-brite and WD40, it'll give you a better idea of any damage (a sandblaster would be preferred if available, with gentle media and set to a low pressure). It's hard to tell from the pictures, I want to lean towards yes you're fine - it looks apparently minimal and localized to a tiny area - but Im not gonna definitively say so from how little I see. A good rule of thumb for checking damage is if you can feel it with your fingernail, you should be concerned - if you can feel it with your finger tip, you should be worried. The PROPER way to check would be to clean it up and get check for serious ovality with an ID mic, so if you have access to those you could absolutely check, but not everyone does and I'm certainly not sure what you do for work or what tools you have access to. A two point bore gauge would work too which are a little more common (not a three point.) Trying to check with calipers would be a last resort but better than nothing
If you're deleting ABS then it's not gonna matter about the groove. However it is interesting because nothing should be touching that race; the ABS ring and axle spacer should only be riding the wheel hub snout. I would investigate further if you decide to reuse them
Is this your daily driver/is this repair needing done ASAP? Conveniently enough I'm actually about to replace my knuckles with some rebuilt ones this weekend, and was gonna press out the old bearings and sell the knuckles on the forum afterwards. If you want some a new set for cheap and can do without them for a couple days, I could have the box out the door on Monday. I'll even blast all the old paint and rust off

Thanks for the guidance, much appreciated. I don't have access to the tools to check the wear properly, so I think I'm going to play it safe to avoid needing to replace this bearing AGAIN down the line. I can definitely feel some of the grooves with a fingernail.

Pretty sure the reason the ABS rotor wore a groove in the spindle is that my bearing was so destroyed that it had 1/2" of up-and-down play in it, which led to the wheel moving around relative to the spindle (and allowing the ABS rotor to contact the spindle). The ABS rotor is completely torched for sure -- it's covered in its own metal shavings.

I'll definitely take you up on the offer of your spindles that you're removing, thank you! It's my only vehicle, but I live in NYC and don't need it most of the time. I'll send you a PM.

 

[96RedRunner]

subwoofer setup how did you wire it up and cut it to fit?.

HDF glued screwed sealed 3/8" of foilbacked mastic on outside of tub
reattached Tub to inner panel rewelding plastic and Phillips screws.
Cover knobs are Velcroed in place that hide screws holding cover in place.
Amp under driver seat.

 

[96RedRunner]

Math worked out perfect for 8" heaviest and max depth for box sub I could find.
Partial baffle left of hole sealed box.
Lowly 400w feed you can make it thump the rear view mirror a bit.
My fix for rollin with 10" box for years.

 

[96RedRunner]

Clean up the races with some scotch-brite and WD40, it'll give you a better idea of any damage (a sandblaster would be preferred if available, with gentle media and set to a low pressure). It's hard to tell from the pictures, I want to lean towards yes you're fine - it looks apparently minimal and localized to a tiny area - but Im not gonna definitively say so from how little I see. A good rule of thumb for checking damage is if you can feel it with your fingernail, you should be concerned - if you can feel it with your finger tip, you should be worried. The PROPER way to check would be to clean it up and get check for serious ovality with an ID mic, so if you have access to those you could absolutely check, but not everyone does and I'm certainly not sure what you do for work or what tools you have access to. A two point bore gauge would work too which are a little more common (not a three point.) Trying to check with calipers would be a last resort but better than nothing
If you're deleting ABS then it's not gonna matter about the groove. However it is interesting because nothing should be touching that race; the ABS ring and axle spacer should only be riding the wheel hub snout. I would investigate further if you decide to reuse them
Is this your daily driver/is this repair needing done ASAP? Conveniently enough I'm actually about to replace my knuckles with some rebuilt ones this weekend, and was gonna press out the old bearings and sell the knuckles on the forum afterwards. If you want some a new set for cheap and can do without them for a couple days, I could have the box out the door on Monday. I'll even blast all the old paint and rust off

What he said that a thorough inspection.

 

[Caramel]

Does anyone know what kind of hardware is used to mount the rear sway bar to the axle? Diameter, pitch and length?

 

[octanejunkie]

Does anyone know what kind of hardware is used to mount the rear sway bar to the axle? Diameter, pitch and length?

Thread pitch on most all Toyota nuts/bolts is 1.25, the rear sway bar bolt is an M8 x 16mm with a captive washer

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[jrm]

Hella H4 -Headlight Bulbs 80/100w or 90/130w - Heat?

Choosing between the 80/100w or the 90/130w. Will either of these create enough heat in the engine compartment to raise any kind of concern?

Not really interested in LED or retrofit right now. TIA

 

[Devbot]

How the hell do you clear an ABS light, by pulling the ABS fuse or what?
The very first time I pressed the brake pedal following a wheel bearing replacement my ABS tripped HARD and immediately twice in a row, then everything went back to normal again (in fact my pedal feel got a bit better, must've flushed out some air!) - but now the light on my dash won't go out. No codes or anything, just a light
Haven't done any digging as to what caused it; got home late and haven't had time. Grease on the ABS ring and/or the speed sensor would be my first guess

 

[octanejunkie]

Check rear axle ABS sensors

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Toya!]

Here’s a dumb question, stick with me as I’m just trying to diagnose some squishy brakes..

When the e-brake is pulled should it lock up the rear wheels? I’m not trying to go Tokyo drift some fire roads but I feel like I really have to pull mine with all my strength to get it to confidently hold the car.

I have adjusted the drums to the best of my abilities what feels like 100 times and I just can’t get a confident pedal feel. Feels like solid braking (still squishy pedal) with the e-brake at 1-2 clicks up. Again just trying to diagnose some shit any help is appreciated