The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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I see you ordered the o-rings, I got mine at Ace is the place it ain't nothing special and $4 cheaper each.
Ace o-rings are typically for plumbing applications and don't always hold up to oils and fuel over time, in my experience.

Toyota stuff has lasted 20 years far, Ace not so much. I paid $6 for 2 o-rings, if that's $5 worth of piece of mind, I'll take it.

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Ace o-rings are typically for plumbing applications and don't always hold up to oils and fuel over time, in my experience.

Toyota stuff has lasted 20 years far, Ace not so much. I paid $6 for 2 o-rings, if that's $5 worth of piece of mind, I'll take it.

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Buna N is what Yota used Buna N my Ace had, alternatives.
 
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Question, I have a really bouncy ride in my 3rd gen. And anytime I hit a bump, pothole. Anything bumpy my steering wheel moves and clunks. Any idea ?


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Question, I have a really bouncy ride in my 3rd gen. And anytime I hit a bump, pothole. Anything bumpy my steering wheel moves and clunks. Any idea ?


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Front upper/lower control arm bushings, and/or inner/outer tie rods, and/or steering rack itself
 
Question, I have a really bouncy ride in my 3rd gen. And anytime I hit a bump, pothole. Anything bumpy my steering wheel moves and clunks. Any idea ?

I had similar issues around 255k. I replaced sway bar bushings, end link bushings, rack bushings, inner & outer TREs, UCA bushings, LCA bushings. They all helped but the biggest difference I saw was after the sway bar bushings. Obviously ymmv but that was my experience. I used the 26mm Prothane bushings and at $15 they're cheaper than what I paid 17 months ago.
 
I was planning to get OME springs with either Bilstein or OME shocks and struts, but now that the Black Friday sales are on, I am considering the Rough Country kit.

This kit is considered coilovers right? Is it advantageous over the coil springs + shocks and struts approach I was initially considering? Is Rough Country Legit? I haven't heard them talked about as much as OME and Bilstein.

Thanks.
 
I was planning to get OME springs with either Bilstein or OME shocks and struts, but now that the Black Friday sales are on, I am considering the Rough Country kit.

This kit is considered coilovers right? Is it advantageous over the coil springs + shocks and struts approach I was initially considering? Is Rough Country Legit? I haven't heard them talked about as much as OME and Bilstein.

Thanks.

You get what you pay for. I've yet to see anyone speak highly of them, in any regard.
It would behoove you to look up older posts before making a decision, many here have installed their kits and very few have kept them on. This is a very recent thread. Rough Country 3" lift thoughts
 
You get what you pay for. I've yet to see anyone speak highly of them, in any regard.
It would behoove you to look up older posts before making a decision, many here have installed their kits and very few have kept them on. This is a very recent thread. Rough Country 3" lift thoughts

Fair enough. I made that posting after seeing the price but not looking up any reviews. I have now looked at reviews and I will not be going with RC.

I'll go with OME springs and Bilstein shocks. Do I just get the 5100s, or the ride height adjustable 5100s?

Also, do I need trim packers? Which ones?

Also, what else should I replace/modify? It's a 2wd and will probably only see some trails occasionally. I know I don't need diff drop. I heard that LBJs are good to replace anyways so I will probably be doing that as well. But what about UCAs?

Thanks.
 
906 vs 890 rear shocks?

The ARB document says 906 is medium load while 890 is heavy load, but that both provide a 2.0" lift.

The lift guide in this forum says 906s provide a 2" lift and the 890s provide a 3" lift. So which is it?

Which would pair better with 881s?
 
906 vs 890 rear shocks?

The ARB document says 906 is medium load while 890 is heavy load, but that both provide a 2.0" lift.

The lift guide in this forum says 906s provide a 2" lift and the 890s provide a 3" lift. So which is it?

Which would pair better with 881s?

I had the 3" lift kit 881's & 90004 struts 890's & 60073 shocks, 22.5" F 23.25" R, center to flair 285/75-16".
Stock weight & 890's I don't reccommend, 100-120# in cargo area got the best ride for DD use.
 
906 vs 890 rear shocks?

The ARB document says 906 is medium load while 890 is heavy load, but that both provide a 2.0" lift.

The lift guide in this forum says 906s provide a 2" lift and the 890s provide a 3" lift. So which is it?

Which would pair better with 881s?

906 provides 2" of lift with a medium load
890 provides 2" of lift with a heavy load
890 provides 3" of lift with the same load as 906 springs (medium load)

Keep in mind whatever lift you put on the front will be 1" above the advertised height because you are 2wd (there's less weight in the front end).
 
906 provides 2" of lift with a medium load
890 provides 2" of lift with a heavy load
890 provides 3" of lift with the same load as 906 springs (medium load)

Keep in mind whatever lift you put on the front will be 1" above the advertised height because you are 2wd (there's less weight in the front end).

But doesn't the axle sit below the springs and therefore the additional weight does not affect the height?
 
But doesn't the axle sit below the springs and therefore the additional weight does not affect the height?
The spring is between the axle (ground) and frame (body). When you add weight whether that is cargo (body area) or trailer tongue weight (frame) it puts more pressure on the spring and compresses it which is why it's important to know how much additional weight you plan on having constantly as that will affect your ride height.
 
Looking for some input with what might be causing this noise... This one has me stumped as it comes and goes and I can't get it to consistently make the sound. I usually don't hear the sound at all on my way to work in the morning after the truck has sat for ~8 hrs ( I drive an hour to get to work) but I hear it as soon as I'm heading out of the parking lot after work. I thought it was a wheel bearing at first, but it isn't a constant sound and I checked for slop in the bearings by grabbing the tires at top and bottom and to check for play in either direction and did the same test on the sides to check for tierod play but didn't notice any. The sound happens occassionally, though its starting to happen more consistently which has me concered and its pretty annoying. It doesn't seem to matter whether or not I turn the wheel, am driving straight, if the suspension is articulating, or what speed I'm going and the truck drives great despite the noise.

For some background, I did a full front end rebuild in July, (OEM LBJ, Bilstein 5100 and 883 OME shocks, whiteline LCA bushings, SPC upper arms, energy poly endlink bushings, and energy steering rack bushings, NAPA CV's) and the noise happened once or twice in september but has become more consistent. I retorqued everything to make sure nothing was loose a couple weekends ago, and have tryed to replicate the sound while crawling underneath and by switch from 2wd to 4wd but haven't found omething that consistently creates the sound. I like to do all my work myself but figured I'd run it by you guys before taking it into my mechanic to see if he can figure out whats causing it.

Any feedback/advice for things to check is much appreciated


A couple vids for reference:
4Runner front end noise pt2 - YouTube
4Runner front end point (pt1) - YouTube
 
I usually don't hear the sound at all on my way to work in the morning after the truck has sat for ~8 hrs ( I drive an hour to get to work) but I hear it as soon as I'm heading out of the parking lot after work.

Story of my damn life :pound: A solid 90% of the noises my truck makes don't happen until I'm a couple miles from work or just leaving the shop, I swear they flip on like a switch
It's definitely not a wheel bearing, they don't chatter. That sounds like metal-on-metal squeaking to me, almost like a u-joint starting to go dry. That would somewhat explain why direction doesn't matter, and why it can't be replicated with the car off and sitting still, though it should change at speed... You could try greasing the driveline and see where it gets you anyways?
A couple months ago when i swapped out coils I noticed my old TRD Tundra set was just barely kissing the UCA sleeve, which certainly gave me a random squeak that mysteriously vanished before I could address it (wore away metal and clearanced itself). I doubt it's happening to you, but it was a very sneaky spot that might deserve a peek
 
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Morning all.

I began to notice this yesterday, but upon start up I've been hearing this screeching sound. So when I turn the key, it'll crank, crank, crank— screech, then turn over and start. It's less than second long. It doesn't sound good, that's for sure.

I can't imagine it being an internal issue from the engine, like anything oil related. Running a YZZD3 filter, so it has a good ADBV.

No issues with any belts, as far as I'm aware. Some are old (2016) but nothing horrible. Everything is tightened down as it should be.

I consulted with a buddy and he suggested it could be either belts or my starter. I'm really wondering if it is the starter. I'll try taking a video shortly when I go to start the truck back up. But just based off of what I've described, does anyone have any suggestions or input? Much appreciated.

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