Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Took me a few listens to catch the noise. I don't have a clue what it is but your rig sounds good.
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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I can't hear anything from the video, but if it happens every time you can try removing drive belts one at a time and see if the noise goes away.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
[MENTION=97491]JoeT4R[/MENTION], have you tried standing at engine bay have someone else start it,
might get some direction of noise source. Maybe.
might get some direction of noise source. Maybe.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
[MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] Good idea! Never thought about that. I'm eager to see if it'll happen again tomorrow morning when I leave for work. We'll see.
[MENTION=142122]96RedRunner[/MENTION] I haven't, but that's a good idea! If it happens again tomorrow morning, when I leave work I'll have someone do that for me. Thanks for the suggestion.
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[MENTION=142122]96RedRunner[/MENTION] I haven't, but that's a good idea! If it happens again tomorrow morning, when I leave work I'll have someone do that for me. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Devbot
New member
I've played it 10 or 12 times and can't pick up anything but keys jingling :shrug: Sounds totally normal to me
chillywest27
New member
Is it worth 9 grand???
New to this Forum so not sure if this is the right place to post this!
Hey, I'm looking into a 1998 Toyota 4Runner // 160.000 miles // rwd automatic // 2.7L 4Cylinder for 9000$.
I've never owned a 4R, but really got into this one because it looks very well taken care of (1 owner), has clean carfax and good MPG (want to drive it across the country and gas prices go uuup).
Prices for used 4Runners have really gone up too, so I wonder if you would pay 9 Grand for this one? Is it overpriced or just what they cost nowadays?
Thanks so much :bluejump:
New to this Forum so not sure if this is the right place to post this!
Hey, I'm looking into a 1998 Toyota 4Runner // 160.000 miles // rwd automatic // 2.7L 4Cylinder for 9000$.
I've never owned a 4R, but really got into this one because it looks very well taken care of (1 owner), has clean carfax and good MPG (want to drive it across the country and gas prices go uuup).
Prices for used 4Runners have really gone up too, so I wonder if you would pay 9 Grand for this one? Is it overpriced or just what they cost nowadays?
Thanks so much :bluejump:
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
The 5-speed is definitely the more desirable 4-cyl albeit less popular than the 3.4L V6, shame it's 2WD - unless that's what you want. It could be converted to 4WD and would be a great SAS candidate...
Add a locking rear differential and boom, solid truck.
Not worth $9k anymore, covid premiums are declining. I'd ask when the timing belt and lower Ball joints were last replaced and negotiate from there. If it needs all that maintenance (and more for sure) then I'd see how they feel about $6k, they probably paid $1,500-2k for it but dealers aren't that realistic or practical
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Planning to have OME springs and Bilstein shocks installed. Questions:
1. Trying to decide between 880s and 881s. A front bumper is planned, but a winch is not. I hear the lift from the 880s is basically invisible. However, I don't want it to be too high with 881s. Looking for a ~2-2.5 inch lift. And then probably going with 906 on the rear.
2. Is the sole purpose of trim packers literally just an additional 5 or 10 mm of lift? Or do they have some other purpose? Not sure if I should get some. Front or rear. Both sides or just one.
- For example, if I go 881 and 906, rear packers are recommended for rake, yes? However, I don't want the rear too high...
3. It's a 2wd and will only see the occasional trail, but I hear that lower ball joints are critical to be replaced regardless. But what about upper control arms or any other suspension components?
4. I am running 265/70/17 tires with 4.5 backspace and 0 offset. What are my options for spacers?
5. What is the best PSI for 265/70/17 (A/T) tires? The shop set them to 38.
Thanks.
1. Trying to decide between 880s and 881s. A front bumper is planned, but a winch is not. I hear the lift from the 880s is basically invisible. However, I don't want it to be too high with 881s. Looking for a ~2-2.5 inch lift. And then probably going with 906 on the rear.
2. Is the sole purpose of trim packers literally just an additional 5 or 10 mm of lift? Or do they have some other purpose? Not sure if I should get some. Front or rear. Both sides or just one.
- For example, if I go 881 and 906, rear packers are recommended for rake, yes? However, I don't want the rear too high...
3. It's a 2wd and will only see the occasional trail, but I hear that lower ball joints are critical to be replaced regardless. But what about upper control arms or any other suspension components?
4. I am running 265/70/17 tires with 4.5 backspace and 0 offset. What are my options for spacers?
5. What is the best PSI for 265/70/17 (A/T) tires? The shop set them to 38.
Thanks.
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Storm01
Member
1. If you're going to add weight, get some springs that can actually handle it. I have some Eibach Pro-Lift springs that give a 2.5" lift stock but with my bumper, I have about a 2" give or take. However, I had to add a TPS to level out the lean. Take a look at the 883s or similar if you add weight.
2. From my understanding, trim packers are used to fix lean mainly but they add lift.
I used a top plate spacer to fix my lean on my driver front, which gave me about .5" of extra lift. I also used a 20mm trim packer for a 80 Series Cruiser on my 891s to fix the lean. 881/906 would be pretty level I think, personally I like .5"-1" of rake but that's just me due to how much weight I carry. I would go 881/890s but if you don't want that, 881/906 w/ a trim packer or two would look good to me.
3. LBJs are for sure vital to replace; only OEMs w/ new bolts. It's just not worth the risk going aftermarket.
Your UCA's should be okay. However, you may run in alignment issues if you have other worn bushings like your LCAs. (mine didn't align properly without changing those after my lift) If you haven't done your CV axles, they will probably rip once you add that lift. I recommend replacing anything you think should be replaced BEFORE you add your lift (tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc) so you can fully enjoy it.
4. Why do you want spacers? Just curious is all.
I have some Spidertrax 1.25 spacers on my rig with stock 5-stars. They look good, makes it have a flush stance. You may run into rubbing with your backspacing + spacers. (at-least I think so. Correct me if I'm wrong.)
5. Lots of variables to consider. I personally run 33-34PSI in the front 32-33 in the back on my 265/75R16 E-Load KO2s. (same size as your 17s but a 16" wheel)Do yourself a chalk test to determine what PSI to run that gives you the best tire wear.
Sorry for the lengthy response, hope it helps
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jrm
New member
I bought a pair of 880s from a person who installed them along with 5100s on a 2wd, and removed them b/c they were too firm due to lack of the additional weight of a front axle. They instead went with 99 tall front springs on 5100s. The 99 tall springs unlike the 880s are side specific to compensate for the additional weight of the driver and the gas tank on the left side of the vehicle. The 906s are also side specific for the same reason. Sso you might not need toe trim packs if you went that route.
If your tires are P rated that psi might be a bit high. If the tires are LT C or E rated, 38 psi sounds about right.
If your tires are P rated that psi might be a bit high. If the tires are LT C or E rated, 38 psi sounds about right.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Is the above crank time and start normal other than screech? it parked outside?
Has happened to me with changing seasons parked outside, Fog or heavy dew in the air on belts
has made that just barely tight enough belt squeal a second or three. It's turned into a seasonal service reminder in a way.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
5. Lots of variables to consider. I personally run 33-34PSI in the front 32-33 in the back Do yourself a chalk test to determine what PSI to run that gives you the best tire wear.
What he said, vehicle weight comes into play along with tire tread design, chalk test gets you best wear.
Running Patagonia MT 285/75-16 E, has a crowned tread. Contact patch on pavement is center 2/3 of tread,
outer lugs contact in turns or soft surface only for max wear. DD use F 36-38 R 35-37.
I air down often I chalk often, first timer with Patagonia's stretch it far as I can.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
Crank time/start remain the same as normal. It is indeed parked outside. It did it again this evening when leaving work.
I did have the idea of using a mechanics stethoscope on my starter when starting the truck. I'll have to acquire one though.
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ForceRunner
New member
I am getting ready to swap in an 02 engine from my wrecked 4Runner into my 97 that I just bought with a blown engine. I’ve already bought new exhaust gaskets and I can tell I’ll have to use the intake from the 97. Is there anything else I’ll need or should look at while I have the engine out?
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96RedRunner
Senior Member
What the weather like moisture laden air?
A piece of rebar can be a stethoscope ha long screwdriver etc.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Silver.T4R
New member
Story of my damn lifeound: A solid 90% of the noises my truck makes don't happen until I'm a couple miles from work or just leaving the shop, I swear they flip on like a switch
It's definitely not a wheel bearing, they don't chatter. That sounds like metal-on-metal squeaking to me, almost like a u-joint starting to go dry. That would somewhat explain why direction doesn't matter, and why it can't be replicated with the car off and sitting still, though it should change at speed... You could try greasing the driveline and see where it gets you anyways?
A couple months ago when i swapped out coils I noticed my old TRD Tundra set was just barely kissing the UCA sleeve, which certainly gave me a random squeak that mysteriously vanished before I could address it (wore away metal and clearanced itself). I doubt it's happening to you, but it was a very sneaky spot that might deserve a peek
Your telling me... between that sound and a rattle in the cargo area that I can't replicate for the life of me as soon as I'm stopped... it drives me nuts. I appreciate the advice of checking the UCA and making sure its not rubbing, I'm going to check that and the exhaust heat shield tomorrow as it looked like thats the other thing that rattles loose overtime. Ujoints should be good as I greased them within the last 1k miles front and rear and I checked them and the tcase for any slop in the output shaft bearings and didn't notice any. Not real sure what else it would be, as I tried revving it in neutral to see if the substrate material in the cat could be coming loose once its heated up but its totally silent when its stopped/in neutral. Will end up just taking it into my mechanic if I can't figure it out tomorrow as it's noticeably getting worse which has me concerned as the metal on metal sound doesn't sound good.
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