The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[I❤️4runners]

T4R site not loading correctly for days now, barely able to get this post out, for months the site has been taking a very long time to connect and now only loading as a white screen with txt. Have tried different browsers, computers, and multi locations with the same results. I can c that others r still posting so assume the sites not down everywhere but something wrg....

No issues on any other site but T4R....

I've had a few issues with the site not loading but then I've tried it a couple hours later and it works fine. It seems to be kinda hit or miss. It typically works for me it's just super slow loading times. In other words I think it's the site not you!

 

[clearock]

seems to b fixed now, loading correctly and quickly again.

 

[jrm]

Key Fob Will.Not.Program

Ive tried so many times but i cant get past the 4 beep "not programmed" signal at the process. I kind of need the fob to work b/c it seems the driver side lock actuators and door lock cylinder beginning to act up.

Any help appreciated..

Thanks

 

[JoeT4R]

Ive tried so many times but i cant get past the 4 beep "not programmed" signal at the process. I kind of need the fob to work b/c it seems the driver side lock actuators and door lock cylinder beginning to act up.

Any help appreciated..

Thanks

I would try following the steps listed here: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/1423461-post121.html

I think the trick is to be quick. Make sure your fob has a new battery, just because. It can definitely get frustrating having to do it over and over, but you might just have to give it a little finesse...
I'm sure there will be other input added to this that may have a different perspective.

 

[Boom_ROASTED]

so the 4runner is on crutches for a little while for a cv axle reboot and a new steering rack that I'm probably not going to get to until later next week at the earliest. Anything else I should look into while it's opened up?

wheel bearings, ball joints, outer tie rods, etc, all that stuff is good. I just ordered some extended SS breaklines to go with my tundra brakes that I didn't think to replace while putting the brakes on so I'm going to put those on the front and rear.

I wish I could tell if the lower control arm bushings were on the way out. There's over 180k on the original ones but there's no indication that they're going bad... should I just replace them anyway? I'd have to find a shop to press the old ones out for me.

Is there anything else I should look at before I get everything back together and regret that I hadn't taken care of it when I could?

 

[JoeT4R]

so the 4runner is on crutches for a little while for a cv axle reboot and a new steering rack that I'm probably not going to get to until later next week at the earliest. Anything else I should look into while it's opened up?

wheel bearings, ball joints, outer tie rods, etc, all that stuff is good. I just ordered some extended SS breaklines to go with my tundra brakes that I didn't think to replace while putting the brakes on so I'm going to put those on the front and rear.

I wish I could tell if the lower control arm bushings were on the way out. There's over 180k on the original ones but there's no indication that they're going bad... should I just replace them anyway? I'd have to find a shop to press the old ones out for me.

Is there anything else I should look at before I get everything back together and regret that I hadn't taken care of it when I could?

Are you only doing one CV axle? If you plan to do both, I'd suggest doing front diff deals while you're at it, as well as a normal drain and fill of the diff. Give it a good flush on the power steering fluid before putting the new rack in, give the brake system a good bleed while you're doing new lines, and I can't think of much else, although I'm sure I'm missing something.

 

[Boom_ROASTED]

Are you only doing one CV axle? If you plan to do both, I'd suggest doing front diff deals while you're at it, as well as a normal drain and fill of the diff. Give it a good flush on the power steering fluid before putting the new rack in, give the brake system a good bleed while you're doing new lines, and I can't think of much else, although I'm sure I'm missing something.

Im doing both, all 4 boots. I’ll look into those seals thank you!

Yes diff fluid will be new and I have a new copper washer, new 14mm fill and drain plugs.

Hadn’t thought about doing a real power steering flush, just thought I’d refill, but I’ll look into that tool.

Brakes will be flushed.

I appreciate the response!

 

[JoeT4R]

Im doing both, all 4 boots. I’ll look into those seals thank you!

Yes diff fluid will be new and I have a new copper washer, new 14mm fill and drain plugs.

Hadn’t thought about doing a real power steering flush, just thought I’d refill, but I’ll look into that tool.

Brakes will be flushed.

I appreciate the response!

What year is your rig? I have an 01 and have the OEM p/n's if you want/need them. They were about $50~ from Toyota. And for the diff, I would highly recommend doing the upgraded Lexus fill and drain plugs-- they have a nipple on them to make for easier removal and install; the gasket/washers stay the same. I have those p/n's too, and were about $20~ from Toyota.

 

[JoeT4R]

Allow me to preface my question by stating that I'm not looking to spark a debate, but rather want to extract information that I deem as credible to help me make a better informed decision.

So I've been very strict about engine oil over the years. I've only ever ran 5W-30, per the owner's manual, never even tried 10W-30. Over the past year and a half-ish I've noticed that I'm having to add about 2/3 of a quart of oil in between 5,000 mile interval oil changes.

Would stepping it up to a thicker weight, say, 5W-40, be of any benefit to my engine and this mysterious oil consumption? Or could this create issues in the long run. Currently at 322.4K miles and want to realistically see 400K. If it doesn't sound like a good idea, I have zero qualms about sticking with the recommended 5W-30.

 

[Boom_ROASTED]

What year is your rig? I have an 01 and have the OEM p/n's if you want/need them. They were about $50~ from Toyota. And for the diff, I would highly recommend doing the upgraded Lexus fill and drain plugs-- they have a nipple on them to make for easier removal and install; the gasket/washers stay the same. I have those p/n's too, and were about $20~ from Toyota.

Mine's a 2000. the part numbers for the seals you mean? Last night I found 9031147027 and 47013. Are there any differences in the 3rd gen years?

And I believe I have the lexus plugs and some extra washers. Theyre both 14mm. I replaced the original one's less than a year ago.

 

[JoeT4R]

Mine's a 2000. the part numbers for the seals you mean? Last night I found 9031147027 and 47013. Are there any differences in the 3rd gen years?

And I believe I have the lexus plugs and some extra washers. Theyre both 14mm. I replaced the original one's less than a year ago.

Yes, I just verified the p/n's for the seals and the ones you mentioned are correct. I just like to quadruple check everything before I pull the trigger. There may be differences throughout the earlier generations but I am not 100% sure. Just wanted to make sure you had what you needed though. The Lexus plugs you can attach the wrench to, whereas the oem 4Runner plugs take a hex.

 

[I❤️4runners]

Allow me to preface my question by stating that I'm not looking to spark a debate, but rather want to extract information that I deem as credible to help me make a better informed decision.

So I've been very strict about engine oil over the years. I've only ever ran 5W-30, per the owner's manual, never even tried 10W-30. Over the past year and a half-ish I've noticed that I'm having to add about 2/3 of a quart of oil in between 5,000 mile interval oil changes.

Would stepping it up to a thicker weight, say, 5W-40, be of any benefit to my engine and this mysterious oil consumption? Or could this create issues in the long run. Currently at 322.4K miles and want to realistically see 400K. If it doesn't sound like a good idea, I have zero qualms about sticking with the recommended 5W-30.

Let ME begin this response by saying that my opinion and thoughts are one of a young and inexperienced third gen owner so please take my thoughts with a grain of salt!

I have often wondered this same thing and have heard of people running 5W40 in stead of 5W30 to stop a slowly leaking rear main seal. It was hoped that the slightly higher viscosity level would slow or even stop up the leak. I've asked my boss at the diesel shop I work at, about doing this and he has told me that it really just depends. The viscosity range of 5W30 is roughly 9 to 12 mm per square inch while 5W40 is about 12 to 16mm per square inch. The only concern I think of with running a slightly heavier oil is the possibility that it might not be able to flow like it should. However, when you're talking about going up from 30 to 40 I, personally, don't think there would be much of an issue. (Again, grain of salt. One thing I have heard of with people running higher oil weights is a decrease in gas mileage. But hey! Since when did 3rd gen owners give a crap about gas mileage.
I attached a link that might have some good information. Again please understand that while I'm a die hard car enthusiast with (some) mechanic experience I am by no means a trusted opinion! I hope to me one day tho!

https://yourgreatcar.com/can-i-put-5w40-instead-of-5w30/

 

[toy0da]

Is my stock suspension worth anything?

Just had suspension installed and wondering what to do with my stock parts.

Thanks.

 

[connorms]

Anyone have eyelet to eyelet measurements on the upper and lower rear links? I found one thread saying the uppers are 12-1/4" but I couldn't find anything for the lowers.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Anyone have eyelet to eyelet measurements on the upper and lower rear links? I found one thread saying the uppers are 12-1/4" but I couldn't find anything for the lowers.

Lowers are 21-1/16" center to center.

 

[connorms]

Lowers are 21-1/16" center to center.

Awesome thanks man! And does the 12-1/4" sound accurate for the uppers? Bent my OEM links so I'm hoping to build some new ones without having to take my current ones off and leave it stuck on jacks in the meantime...

 

[Boom_ROASTED]

anyone familiar with CTPD remans? Just got a steering rack from the dealership, the whole thing is painted black (looks like ass), and has a shiny chrome CTPD sticker on it. It's an oem steering rack. I guess they just get CTPD to do the rebuild but I can't find anything about them online.

I'm sure I don't have anything to be concerned about but wanted to see what you folks had to say.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Awesome thanks man! And does the 12-1/4" sound accurate for the uppers? Bent my OEM links so I'm hoping to build some new ones without having to take my current ones off and leave it stuck on jacks in the meantime...

I don't know, sorry. I have the lowers easily available after installing the Rokmens, and was able to measure them, but the uppers are still on the truck.

 

[connorms]

I don't know, sorry. I have the lowers easily available after installing the Rokmens, and was able to measure them, but the uppers are still on the truck.

No worries, thanks for the lower dimensions at least! Did you go with their adjustable lowers or the non adjustable? I’m trying to decide between making mine adjustable or not because threaded joints are 3-4x the price of bushings or non-threaded joints, so I’m not sure if it’s worth the extra headache and $$ to make them adjustable.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Spiker Engineering]

No worries, thanks for the lower dimensions at least! Did you go with their adjustable lowers or the non adjustable? I’m trying to decide between making mine adjustable or not because threaded joints are 3-4x the price of bushings or non-threaded joints, so I’m not sure if it’s worth the extra headache and $$ to make them adjustable.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I went with the fixed length - I didn't have any need for adjustability for my rig, and didn't want to deal with the extra complexity and cost of the adjustable arms.