The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[88stickinitin97]

D-C has called it. Once you take apart a 20 year old suspension your budget is likely to go out the window. Unless you like doing jobs twice, now is the time to get things right. I kept the lid down on my suspension refurbish and was still in for about $1200 in parts for my 2000 LTD.

Moog UBJs
OEM LBJs ($108 amazon)
Control arm bushings
5100 shocks
Moog springs
Rubber spacer in the rear to bring it level
Inner/Outer tie rods
Strut Mounts

This equated to about a 2" lift, maybe a tad under, which resulted in just after a few months driving both front inner boots split open and dumped their grease. So you can add roughly $120 to that for a new boot kit.

It was all worth doing. (Disclaimer: only pic on hand, poor truck is filthy. 2" lift means up from where it had sagged down to. I'm probably just a tad over original factory ride height.)

I’m wondering if you have a full write up somewhere of your rig? I have 97 manual with original leather. Would also like to do mostly stock, and while I love this sit, you are one of the few guys i’ve Seen that try to maintain an “original/stock” rig.

 

[jaywonger]

Our ABS was doing it on our 01, and after installing new rear axle seals, cleaning all the sensors and bleeding the brakes and this fixed the issue for us..not sure if it was a coincidence but worth a shot.

Oh interesting! Maybe I'll give this a shot! Thanks

 

[nodge87]

Trying to choose a rust protection service from an auto body shop[

Hi All!

Just bought a 2001 Limited last weekend and brought it home to NYC.

Looking to send it in for a rust protection coating at a body shop somewhere in the city and I am curious if anyone has any guidance on what sort of rust protection services to go for, and also, what to avoid.

The underside of the truck is in really good condition, so I don't want to have it coated with something that is going to cause me problems down the line.

As a side note, I don't plan on doing an awful lot of miles in it, but considering we are in the rust best, I want to do what I can to keep the truck in good condition.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Bad Luck]

Hi All!

Just bought a 2001 Limited last weekend and brought it home to NYC.

Looking to send it in for a rust protection coating at a body shop somewhere in the city and I am curious if anyone has any guidance on what sort of rust protection services to go for, and also, what to avoid.

The underside of the truck is in really good condition, so I don't want to have it coated with something that is going to cause me problems down the line.

As a side note, I don't plan on doing an awful lot of miles in it, but considering we are in the rust best, I want to do what I can to keep the truck in good condition.

Thanks for the help!

If you are looking for a paint type coating then POR 15 or similar. You might have to call a few shops to find a decent price.

If it was me, then I would do the wd40 treatment or fluid film. They work best with yearly applications, but I think they work better and coat more thoroughly than POR 15/paint products in tough to reach spots like the frame rails. It can be a bit messy to apply wd40/fluid film and try to avoid getting it on the exhaust as much as possible.

 

[Devbot]

Hi All!

Just bought a 2001 Limited last weekend and brought it home to NYC.

Looking to send it in for a rust protection coating at a body shop somewhere in the city and I am curious if anyone has any guidance on what sort of rust protection services to go for, and also, what to avoid.

The underside of the truck is in really good condition, so I don't want to have it coated with something that is going to cause me problems down the line.

As a side note, I don't plan on doing an awful lot of miles in it, but considering we are in the rust best, I want to do what I can to keep the truck in good condition.

Thanks for the help!

Sand off any existing rust, clean it, prime it, paint it. Simple as.
Doesn't have to look like it rolled off the factory floor, just has to work - nobody will see it anyways. :artist2:

 

[Cycleandsurf]

Is this considered bad rust? Maybe manageable? About to pull the trigger on buying my first 4Runner!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Devbot]

Is this considered bad rust? Maybe manageable? About to pull the trigger on buying my first 4Runner!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks very manageable. I've driven much rustier rigs and seen worse on this site. I'm willing to bet once you brush off the loose stuff and give it a quick clean it won't look nearly as bad. I wouldn't ignore it though, but that's just me personally.

 

[nodge87]

If you are looking for a paint type coating then POR 15 or similar. You might have to call a few shops to find a decent price.

If it was me, then I would do the wd40 treatment or fluid film. They work best with yearly applications, but I think they work better and coat more thoroughly than POR 15/paint products in tough to reach spots like the frame rails. It can be a bit messy to apply wd40/fluid film and try to avoid getting it on the exhaust as much as possible.

Thanks so much! This is super helpful. I’ll give a few places a call and see what quotes I get.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nodge87]

Sand off any existing rust, clean it, prime it, paint it. Simple as.
Doesn't have to look like it rolled off the factory floor, just has to work - nobody will see it anyways. :artist2:

Thank you! I actually don’t seem to have much rust at all underneath thankfully so hopefully it’s just a simple coating job.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dial4toRun]

is this where I can post my dumb questions, coo, just bought a 3rd and when I gas it while at high RPM's I hear an extremely loud whistling. which sounds like it is coming from middle bottom......nope not a turbo!

 

[spartacus]

is this where I can post my dumb questions, coo, just bought a 3rd and when I gas it while at high RPM's I hear an extremely loud whistling. which sounds like it is coming from middle bottom......nope not a turbo!

Could be a simple vacuum leak and you should be able to duplicate it, by reving the engine at high rpms and listening. If it only happens while moving it could be differential front or rear, drain the diff fluid and look for metal. Replace the fluid to see if it helps.

 

[HiLife]

I experienced that same whistle/screem at high rpm. Mines ended up being bad alternator bearings. Swaped out alt fixed my issue.

 

[Devbot]

Is it possible to move/twist the steering knuckle so it's less likely to collide with the springs, or is my only hope to take off the strut and rearrange the coil?
Or are there better aftermarket knuckles?

 

[Malcolm99]

Cylceandsurf that frame has been terribly welded and patched, look at the weld on the rear control support to frame, a blind man could weld better, run from that vehicle it's finished IMO.

 

[Dial4toRun]

Could be a simple vacuum leak and you should be able to duplicate it, by reving the engine at high rpms and listening. If it only happens while moving it could be differential front or rear, drain the diff fluid and look for metal. Replace the fluid to see if it helps.

oh ok, will do this today, thanks

 

[Doc3g]

This is probably a stupid wiring question but here goes. I know that on the rear of the truck I plan on mounting a few things that will require power (extra backup lights, a set of rear work lights, and a set of hazard flasher lights for sure). So, instead of running a bunch of single wires along the length of the truck, I figured I would run two main cable runs. The first would be a decently heavy gauge black wire from the battery, which could then be tapped into for power. Then I would also run a jacketed wire with 4 individual wires inside (something like this Amazon.com: 250FT Outdoor UV Protection Rated Professional Speaker Audio Cable 14AWG Direct Burial 14/4 Bulk Spool (250FT, 14/4): Electronics) that I would run to my switch panel inside the cab. Am I missing something or is this viable?

 

[Bad Luck]

This is probably a stupid wiring question but here goes. I know that on the rear of the truck I plan on mounting a few things that will require power (extra backup lights, a set of rear work lights, and a set of hazard flasher lights for sure). So, instead of running a bunch of single wires along the length of the truck, I figured I would run two main cable runs. The first would be a decently heavy gauge black wire from the battery, which could then be tapped into for power. Then I would also run a jacketed wire with 4 individual wires inside (something like this Amazon.com: 250FT Outdoor UV Protection Rated Professional Speaker Audio Cable 14AWG Direct Burial 14/4 Bulk Spool (250FT, 14/4): Electronics) that I would run to my switch panel inside the cab. Am I missing something or is this viable?

I'm assuming you are using relays at the rear main power/ground to control it? Otherwise you would still be flowing the full current through the switch and it would be pointless to run a main power and ground to the rear.

 

[Bad Luck]

Is it possible to move/twist the steering knuckle so it's less likely to collide with the springs, or is my only hope to take off the strut and rearrange the coil?
Or are there better aftermarket knuckles?

Your knuckle is hitting the springs or the upper control arm? It's rare for the knuckle to hit the spring, but the only real solution is rotating the spring assembly.

 

[Devbot]

Your knuckle is hitting the springs or the upper control arm? It's rare for the knuckle to hit the spring, but the only real solution is rotating the spring assembly.

Yes, on the spring, at full droop, can take a pic later if you want. It's to my understanding with the TRD lift the springs should be orientated in a way to prevent this (something I didnt know when installing them), I was just curious if there was a fix without breaking the strut down again. Not that big a deal, not long ago we got a coilover machine at my work I've been wanting to use

 

[Bad Luck]

Yes, on the spring, at full droop, can take a pic later if you want. It's to my understanding with the TRD lift the springs should be orientated in a way to prevent this (something I didnt know when installing them), I was just curious if there was a fix without breaking the strut down again. Not that big a deal, not long ago we got a coilover machine at my work I've been wanting to use

Most people hit the upper control arm with the spring, but the couple I read that hit the knuckle rotated the spring and that fixed the problem for them. One guy took a couple tries if I remember correctly.