The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Can I fit those with a 3 inch ome lift? I like the look of the stock rims so I am trying to keep them with the max size I can run.
Not without lots of clearancing. 285/75R16's will fit but will rub when flexed or turning full lock. 255/85R16's will clear a little better than 285's.
 
Your 3rd gen definitely does not have a 2nd gen rear axle housing, unless you have reason to believe the previous owner did extensive modifications to fit one which wouldn’t really make any sense


Thank you. There aren't any 2nd gens around me that I can take a look at the axle so I wasn't sure how much different they were. 10 or so years ago me and my father were fighting axle seals. We replaced them a few times and kept having them go out. Dad got mad, took it to a shop. They replaced them twice and had failures. Finally on their third time they started measuring.

From what my father remembers they told him they discovered that the axle housing was now from a '97 because their measurements indicated they needed 2.d gen seals. My father thought they said they used seals for a '93. All I know is they are still going strong. I just wasn't sure what to believe.

Fast forward to today I am worried I have a bearing going out in the rear diff. Before I start buying parts or shopping for a locking 3rd member I wanted to ensure I didn't have a 2nd gen axle/3rd member or other gremlins that may pop up.
 
Thank you. There aren't any 2nd gens around me that I can take a look at the axle so I wasn't sure how much different they were. 10 or so years ago me and my father were fighting axle seals. We replaced them a few times and kept having them go out. Dad got mad, took it to a shop. They replaced them twice and had failures. Finally on their third time they started measuring.

From what my father remembers they told him they discovered that the axle housing was now from a '97 because their measurements indicated they needed 2.d gen seals. My father thought they said they used seals for a '93. All I know is they are still going strong. I just wasn't sure what to believe.

Fast forward to today I am worried I have a bearing going out in the rear diff. Before I start buying parts or shopping for a locking 3rd member I wanted to ensure I didn't have a 2nd gen axle/3rd member or other gremlins that may pop up.

I have no clue if seals from a 93 would work or not, but I can pretty much guarantee the axle isn’t a 93 or any 2nd gen. A lot of times people install a new updated seal design available from Toyota without flipping the retainer on the axle shaft and verifying that the seal rides on the correct section of the retainer so they end up leaking. Lots of people also just throw in a new seal and it works but I’d bet these new seals weren’t riding on the retainer properly and that caused the leaks
 
suspension refresh

Apologies if this horse has been beaten to death, just don't want to miss anything. I've searched and think I have it covered, just want to check one last time.

I have some time off between now and end of year and I'm going to tackle the front suspension. 98 with 153k. 2wd. All the front end components appear to be original except for the shocks/struts which I did 2 years ago. Plan is to complete

LBJ's and castle nuts (OE)
ITRE's (OE) and OTRE (Duralast)
Steering rack bushings (Energy Suspension)
UCA bushings (OE)
LCA Bushings (Whiteline)
Sway bar links/bushings (Duralast)

Pay close attention to get everything close enough to get to shop for alignment.

Any feedback/items I'm missing greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
Apologies if this horse has been beaten to death, just don't want to miss anything. I've searched and think I have it covered, just want to check one last time.

I have some time off between now and end of year and I'm going to tackle the front suspension. 98 with 153k. 2wd. All the front end components appear to be original except for the shocks/struts which I did 2 years ago. Plan is to complete

LBJ's and castle nuts (OE)
ITRE's (OE) and OTRE (Duralast)
Steering rack bushings (Energy Suspension)
UCA bushings (OE)
LCA Bushings (Whiteline)
Sway bar links/bushings (Duralast)

Pay close attention to get everything close enough to get to shop for alignment.

Any feedback/items I'm missing greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Why not tack on some UBJs as well? At that point practically everything will have been serviced in one swoop, and if you're already getting an alignment then it seems like an appropriate time
Swapping out the OEM UCAs altogether for something like JBA control arms would probably save you a bit of headache too - two birds with one stone and all that jazz
 
Apologies if this horse has been beaten to death, just don't want to miss anything. I've searched and think I have it covered, just want to check one last time.

I have some time off between now and end of year and I'm going to tackle the front suspension. 98 with 153k. 2wd. All the front end components appear to be original except for the shocks/struts which I did 2 years ago. Plan is to complete

LBJ's and castle nuts (OE)
ITRE's (OE) and OTRE (Duralast)
Steering rack bushings (Energy Suspension)
UCA bushings (OE)
LCA Bushings (Whiteline)
Sway bar links/bushings (Duralast)

Pay close attention to get everything close enough to get to shop for alignment.

Any feedback/items I'm missing greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I'd also recommend replacing the lower ball joint bolts (90080-10066 8 total required) (59 lb/ft torque value on these).

I know you said suspension, but have you checked your timing belt and radiator? If the radiator is brown it's time to replace it before it fails and you have an overheated engine or pink milkshake (kills your transmission).
Spark plugs and wires?
 
Thanks Bad Luck! Radiator and hoses were done two years ago, same with plugs and wires. Timing belt was done by dealer at around 90k, so I'm going to let it ride another year or so.
 
Speaking of a new question, my '03 turn signals work but the dash turn signal indicaters no longer do. Fuses look OK. Is this a bulb problem and are they hard to replace?
Thanks for any help.
Bill in Oregon
 
Anyone here dump their exhaust right after the rear axle and have a clip of how it sounds? I really like the clean look and losing the risk of crushing it, but if it sounds annoying I'd rather just live with it. The most people have alluded to is "it sounds a little louder" - which I don't doubt at all, but that obviously doesn't tell much
 
The stereo harness in the truck I'm building was spliced to work with a single din stereo (using the OE amp.) I'm wondering if it's possible to buy a new stereo harness. Last few trucks I've checked at junkyards were missing the entire stereo system. I can't find a diagram for the OE stereo wiring for some reason but I'm assuming my solution is a harness that runs to the amp.
 
The stereo harness in the truck I'm building was spliced to work with a single din stereo (using the OE amp.) I'm wondering if it's possible to buy a new stereo harness. Last few trucks I've checked at junkyards were missing the entire stereo system. I can't find a diagram for the OE stereo wiring for some reason but I'm assuming my solution is a harness that runs to the amp.

Did they splice into the harness between the head unit and the amp, or after the amp? Most aftermarket head units bypass the stock amp and just connect directly to the plug that plugs in to the stock amp, so if the splicing was between the head unit and amp then you would be bypassing that part of the wiring anyway.

Edit: Unless you are trying to return to the stock head unit.
 
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Did they splice into the harness between the head unit and the amp, or after the amp? Most aftermarket head units bypass the stock amp and just connect directly to the plug that plugs in to the stock amp, so if the splicing was between the head unit and amp then you would be bypassing that part of the wiring anyway.

Edit: Unless you are trying to return to the stock head unit.

He spliced the harness between the head unit and the amp (his unit uses the stock amp). I'm looking to return to the stock head unit and unfortunately he did a really poor splicing job (didn't give much slack and used a significant amount of wire) so even if I went to an aftermarket stereo I'd want a new harness.
 
Anyone here dump their exhaust right after the rear axle and have a clip of how it sounds? I really like the clean look and losing the risk of crushing it, but if it sounds annoying I'd rather just live with it. The most people have alluded to is "it sounds a little louder" - which I don't doubt at all, but that obviously doesn't tell much

One downside I can think of. The exhaust will accumulate under the rear cargo space when not moving and cause rust to the under carriage. The exhaust contains water vapor and sulphuric acid. Also CO fumes making their way into the cabin.
 
I got a '97 limited transfer case I want rid of

So, a friend was cleaning out a storage unit, gave me a seemingly nice condition '97 4Runner limited transfer case. Can I get $200 for it? What's it worth, does anyone here want it?
 
He spliced the harness between the head unit and the amp (his unit uses the stock amp). I'm looking to return to the stock head unit and unfortunately he did a really poor splicing job (didn't give much slack and used a significant amount of wire) so even if I went to an aftermarket stereo I'd want a new harness.

If you went to an aftermarket head unit that doesn't need the stock amp, it sounds like you would be fine. Regardless, is this for the 97 in your sig? I can only speak to the system from my 2000, but on that the wiring that connects to the head unit can't be removed from the amp which means what you really need is a new amp which would include the wiring that is cut up. If this is about your 97, I don't think this offer is of much help to you, but I did hang on to my stock head unit and amp out of my 2000 and you are welcome to them. I know that the amp part number is only for 99-02, so I assume there is a change which would mean it won't work in your 97.
 
If you went to an aftermarket head unit that doesn't need the stock amp, it sounds like you would be fine. Regardless, is this for the 97 in your sig? I can only speak to the system from my 2000, but on that the wiring that connects to the head unit can't be removed from the amp which means what you really need is a new amp which would include the wiring that is cut up. If this is about your 97, I don't think this offer is of much help to you, but I did hang on to my stock head unit and amp out of my 2000 and you are welcome to them. I know that the amp part number is only for 99-02, so I assume there is a change which would mean it won't work in your 97.

It's for my '99 -- this is super helpful. So basically the stock amp has a harness built in that runs to the factory stereo, outputs for the speakers, and the antennae? I'd definitely take you up on that -- will PM you.
 
2 completely random questions

First question: Does anyone have a part number for the wire harness that goes to the rear hatch? My wires are frayed and the defrost won't work. I'd rather get a new harness from the dealer than a used one but I can't find a part number.

Second question: Does anyone know where I can find a new differential vacuum tank? Its that little black canister that sits in front of the front left tire. Mine rusted out and everywhere I look says the part is discontinued.
 
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