The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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Dezert4Runner
Senior Member
I do almost weekly and have a swing out bumper with spare tire and full length rack. The automated washes haven’t done any damage but I guess there’s always a small risk something on the machinery will get hung up on a vehicle’s aftermarket parts and tweak something. I wouldn’t worry about it.
Devbot
New member
Thanks, I couldn't find anything about saying otherwise so I assumed this was the case
Long time lurker second time commenting. Well first off a huge thank you to all of the great contributors to this site for the amazing amount of detailed and informative content that was been a lifesaver, for both myself and my wallet over the last few years. I’m so glad this site is around!
Alright onto business. So I had a bad bearing in the drivers rear a few weeks back, and after weighing my options I realized it was much more cost friendly to my student budget to not replace the bearing and instead to just buy a used left axle shaft with all the bits still on and just do a quick direct swap. Unfortunately I had zero time to do this myself so I had to take it to the shop to get it installed, which reportedly was quick and a painless. Well it has been about a month since with no prior problems, but when I was lubing the driveshaft and having a poke around the other day I noticed that my left tire has 12–6 o’clock play similar to what a bad bearing would exhibit, however there is no current signs of a bad bearing and I gave the part a very close inspection when I bought it and it seemed mint to me.
My question then is; if it is indeed not a bad bearing again what could this vertical north—south play in the wheel be caused by? TIA!
Alright onto business. So I had a bad bearing in the drivers rear a few weeks back, and after weighing my options I realized it was much more cost friendly to my student budget to not replace the bearing and instead to just buy a used left axle shaft with all the bits still on and just do a quick direct swap. Unfortunately I had zero time to do this myself so I had to take it to the shop to get it installed, which reportedly was quick and a painless. Well it has been about a month since with no prior problems, but when I was lubing the driveshaft and having a poke around the other day I noticed that my left tire has 12–6 o’clock play similar to what a bad bearing would exhibit, however there is no current signs of a bad bearing and I gave the part a very close inspection when I bought it and it seemed mint to me.
My question then is; if it is indeed not a bad bearing again what could this vertical north—south play in the wheel be caused by? TIA!
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2000 Limited thoughts on value ? Found a one owner Limited with 99,000 on the clock, allegedly unmolested and no accidents. From photos, very good condition. Leather drivers seat normal cracks and normal nicks in front end from driving much like any car will get. White in color not that it makes a world of difference. Used car prices in general are ridiculous and I am not in a rush but if something comes up at a good price, I'd buy. Southern car, no rust.
What do you feel is a realistic price ?
What do you feel is a realistic price ?
spartacus
Senior Member
Take the tire off and check the wheel studs and lugs, the hub assembly, also the surface on the inside of the wheel. It'could be the its'not sitting right on the hub ring.
spartacus
Senior Member
Depending on your market. I would guess 10k plus.
Brian.
Member
I bought mine before the wu-flu insanity, a bit less than double the miles but otherwise the same for $6500. Not sure why people think less miles is better (to a point), just means it wasn't driven as much so there's more potential for plastic/rubber part failure. I've seen low mile motorcycles with engine gaskets that leaked because they dry-rotted... talking 40 year old engines with a thousand or two miles. But if the seller is one of those who thinks low miles always means more money, it'll be listed too high for an economical daily driver (you're still going to have to replace all the parts as a 200, 300 or 400k vehicle, actually probably more as the higher mileage units will likely have had some replacements).
Todays market, a "needs everything maintenance/consumable" is probably a good deal at $7k, gives you the ~$3k needed to buy the parts and do the work yourself, landing at a $10k vehicle that *MIGHT* sell for $10k. If you're willing to eat some money on the deal, decide how much and rise the initial price from there. A 4r with 100k miles has a little more room for that BaT magic, but those are the oddball exceptions and I wouldn't bet my next months mortgage on it.
fatherohenry
Member
I can't find a number or any specs for the bolt that attaches the fuel return line bracket to the plenum. I'm guessing it's the same as the ground strap bolt but I can't find that either. I've previously tried an 8x1.25 so I know it's not that. It's currently raining too hard to go outside and check the ground strap bolt for markings.
Can anyone enlighten me?
Can anyone enlighten me?
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spartacus
Senior Member
It's one of these part numbers
91611-60614
91611-60616 superseded by 91611-B0616
or 91651-40610
Devbot
New member
It's (thankfully) been a while since I've worked on my engine but if I'm not wrong it should be a stubby little 10mm (maybe 12mm?) bolt that's extremely common in the engine bay; if need be you should be able to find and pull another one no problem to take to the hardware store
fatherohenry
Member
Yep, quite common. Was just hoping to save myself a trip to HD since I was already ordering parts.
For anyone reading this later, the fuel return hose bracket uses the same bolt as the grounding strap a few inches away - M6x1.0. HD had 12 & 16mm lengths that both work fine and have a 10mm head to match.
My starter made some noise the other day and I'm thinking it's on it's way out. Although it could last another 100k, well maybe not that much. It was replaced over 100k maybe even 150k miles ago so it's definitely old. Would it be appropriate to replace it before it kicks the can? My 4runner is my daily so I need to be able to drive it. Maybe I can order a starter and just have i ready for when it does go? Or can i replace the internals? I think i read somewhere that you can do that...
Replacing the contacts and plunger is pretty easy to do. You will want to confirm you have an OEM starter. You can see the starter by removing the front passenger side wheel and pulling back the rear flap. You should see a sticker that says Denso. If that's the case, you will also need to figure out which starter you have as there are two options, a 1.4kW and a 1.8kW. The 1.8kW is much more common than the 1.4kW, but I have never seen a definitive answer on what engine/ transmission/ options packages give you which starter. When I was doing mine, the dealership couldn't even tell me which one I had by doing a VIN lookup. The best I can do is that if you have the v6, you probably have the 1.8kW starter. If you have an automatic, you probably have the 1.8kW starter.
Devbot
New member
You could do either or; depends on how much you value your time. I think keeping one around as a spare is a little silly though, they very rarely up and die without at least a couple warnings first/can't be temporarily fixed without a good smack to the side
spartacus
Senior Member
Here is a video that will give you a good understanding about the process.
Starter Removal and Solenoid Repair - YouTube
Advice for rolled-runner
Hey gang,
Finally got my 99 SR5 ready (with ya'lls help) for some serious camping trips after a few months of upgrades. Yesterday during the inaugural trip in Oregon I hit some nasty black ice, spun, and rolled off the side of the road. All passengers ok, car was righted, and I drove off into the sunset. I must have had some bad karma stored up...
I am seeking friendly advice on next steps. The damage seems to be entirely to the body. Three mechanics have turned up no obvious issues with the frame whatever, other that a wheel out of alignment (soon to be fixed). The roof is collapsed down about 6 inches, and the drivers side of the car is crunched all along. Only broken window is sunroof (and a missing mirror). A few pictures will give a better idea, but the gist is that most body panels are roughed up and the frame is ok, still drives great.
My options seem to be as follows:
- Do nothing - easy, unsatisfying
- Part it out - seems unnecessary, but some schmucks on the east coast would pay top dollar for this clean frame...
- Buy a nice 3rd gen, put all my good bits on it, sell the rest of the old one
- Buy a cheap 3rd gen with a good body and body swap onto my good frame
- Pay a body shop with my soul to fix the car
- Try to fix what I can, pop the roof back up, take a heavy hammer to the dents, and suck it up
- cry for my lost adventure buddy
Do you have experience with a similar situation? Do you have strong opinions on what I should or shouldn't do? I seek your thoughts and ideas. I'll figure out something else to drive in the meantime so no urgency other than not being able to hit sick trails and camp in my car. Also: no insurance money here. Only had liability coverage.
Thank you!
Hey gang,
Finally got my 99 SR5 ready (with ya'lls help) for some serious camping trips after a few months of upgrades. Yesterday during the inaugural trip in Oregon I hit some nasty black ice, spun, and rolled off the side of the road. All passengers ok, car was righted, and I drove off into the sunset. I must have had some bad karma stored up...
I am seeking friendly advice on next steps. The damage seems to be entirely to the body. Three mechanics have turned up no obvious issues with the frame whatever, other that a wheel out of alignment (soon to be fixed). The roof is collapsed down about 6 inches, and the drivers side of the car is crunched all along. Only broken window is sunroof (and a missing mirror). A few pictures will give a better idea, but the gist is that most body panels are roughed up and the frame is ok, still drives great.
My options seem to be as follows:
- Do nothing - easy, unsatisfying
- Part it out - seems unnecessary, but some schmucks on the east coast would pay top dollar for this clean frame...
- Buy a nice 3rd gen, put all my good bits on it, sell the rest of the old one
- Buy a cheap 3rd gen with a good body and body swap onto my good frame
- Pay a body shop with my soul to fix the car
- Try to fix what I can, pop the roof back up, take a heavy hammer to the dents, and suck it up
- cry for my lost adventure buddy
Do you have experience with a similar situation? Do you have strong opinions on what I should or shouldn't do? I seek your thoughts and ideas. I'll figure out something else to drive in the meantime so no urgency other than not being able to hit sick trails and camp in my car. Also: no insurance money here. Only had liability coverage.
Thank you!
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cl4Rk
Member
[MENTION=660579]realwood[/MENTION]
Glad everyone is OK, sorry about your truck!
My personal preference:
Start with
- Try to fix what I can, pop the roof back up, take a heavy hammer to the dents, and suck it up
But in the mean time, keep an eye out for
- Buy a cheap 3rd gen with a good body and body swap onto my good frame
Or if you end up finding the one
- Buy a nice 3rd gen, put all my good bits on it, sell the rest of the old one
Glad everyone is OK, sorry about your truck!
My personal preference:
Start with
- Try to fix what I can, pop the roof back up, take a heavy hammer to the dents, and suck it up
But in the mean time, keep an eye out for
- Buy a cheap 3rd gen with a good body and body swap onto my good frame
Or if you end up finding the one
- Buy a nice 3rd gen, put all my good bits on it, sell the rest of the old one
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