The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Bad Luck]

I have the strawberry milkshake curse of the coolant in my transmission vice versa, it is everywhere. In the transmission in all the coolant lines.

my transmission is slipping and engine is overheating. my thoughts are I'll be towing it to anywhere I need in my small town.

Picture strawberry milkshake grossness that is terrible for transmissions and terrible for the rubber hoses for your coolant. I'm asking for a possible plan of attack. the fluid wipes any adhesives on the gears although I hear Dr.Tranny has helped people with slippery dics.

variables:

1 vehicle might run for a short distance but im planning to tow it.

2lube guy wants me to replace the radiator before he does the flushes

3im more or less accepted that my transmission is ruined but open to thoughts

4my vehicle is parked by my house on the road

5If I change my radiator he does the flushes does he leave my radiator empty so I replace the hoses?




Thank you so much for your thoughts, prayers and questions. Especially the prayers:lol:

You can try flushing 10 gallons of fluid through your transmission but it sounds like it wasn’t caught soon enough. I’d plan on replacing your transmission.

As for the cooling system side of it I would replace the radiator and then flush the cooling system with distilled water and possibly a little dawn. I’d take the thermostat out to make the flushing a little easier.

In reality there is no point in replacing the radiator and flushing the cooling system until you replace the transmission. Up to you if it’s worth the cost of replacing the transmission or not. Cheapest route would be used OEM and change it yourself. You’ll need to get the correct year and 2wd/4wd to match. 96-00 interchange and 01-02 interchange.

 

[spartacus]

I have the strawberry milkshake curse of the coolant in my transmission vice versa, it is everywhere. In the transmission in all the coolant lines.

my transmission is slipping and engine is overheating. my thoughts are I'll be towing it to anywhere I need in my small town.

Picture strawberry milkshake grossness that is terrible for transmissions and terrible for the rubber hoses for your coolant. I'm asking for a possible plan of attack. the fluid wipes any adhesives on the gears although I hear Dr.Tranny has helped people with slippery dics.

variables:

1 vehicle might run for a short distance but im planning to tow it.

2lube guy wants me to replace the radiator before he does the flushes

3im more or less accepted that my transmission is ruined but open to thoughts

4my vehicle is parked by my house on the road

5If I change my radiator he does the flushes does he leave my radiator empty so I replace the hoses?




Thank you so much for your thoughts, prayers and questions. Especially the prayers:lol:

Discard the radiator and the thermostate. Flush out the remnants with a hose from the inlet and the outlet thoroughly.Install the new thermostat and radiator, denso, koyo or Oem. Good time to install a external Trans cooler like b&m. Drain all the old atf fluid. buy cheap dex-iii (walmart is a good source)and flush out all of the fluid until clean red fluid, drive it until the trans is upto temp couple of miles flush it again with 8-10 gallons. drive it another few miles flush the Trans again until fresh red atf. If you do a machine flush of the atf at the shop. keep checking the fluid to make sure its clean red and flush it again. Some have gone through 40 gallons of atf in this process. If there is a lot of clutch material in the fluid while flushing then your transmission might be toast. Keep monitoring the tranny for symptoms. Even after all this, many transmissions fail. some last a few hundred miles while others a few thosand. It would be a good idea to look into a used relatively low milage Trans or a rebuild.

 

[TW44LR]

I have the strawberry milkshake curse of the coolant in my transmission vice versa, it is everywhere. In the transmission in all the coolant lines.

my transmission is slipping and engine is overheating. my thoughts are I'll be towing it to anywhere I need in my small town.

Picture strawberry milkshake grossness that is terrible for transmissions and terrible for the rubber hoses for your coolant. I'm asking for a possible plan of attack. the fluid wipes any adhesives on the gears although I hear Dr.Tranny has helped people with slippery dics.

variables:

1 vehicle might run for a short distance but im planning to tow it.

2lube guy wants me to replace the radiator before he does the flushes

3im more or less accepted that my transmission is ruined but open to thoughts

4my vehicle is parked by my house on the road

5If I change my radiator he does the flushes does he leave my radiator empty so I replace the hoses?




Thank you so much for your thoughts, prayers and questions. Especially the prayers:lol:

Like others have said bunch of flushes of coolant and atf fluid and I was able to save mine, new radiator definitely or the same thing could happen. I could have been driving mine anywhere from 0-35 mins before I caught it. That was probably 10k miles ago and a 1700 mile trip since with no issues. If you can change your oil you can change your coolant, radiator and trans fluid


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[octanejunkie]

Like others have said bunch of flushes of coolant and atf fluid and I was able to save mine, new radiator definitely or the same thing could happen. I could have been driving mine anywhere from 0-35 mins before I caught it. That was probably 10k miles ago and a 1700 mile trip since with no issues. If you can change your oil you can change your coolant, radiator and trans fluid


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A new radiator, because it already happened, is a given.

If the OP drove any reasonable distance with a pink milkshake, and the trans slipped and the truck stalled, damage is potentially already done. The trans filter will need to be replaced and it would be worth manually flushing the valve body while the pan is off. Getting all that crap out of the torque converter is necessary, too.

This is why it's so important to replace these radiators on schedule, every 150K. That's just 2 radiators to get to 450K, unless you overheated it or had a front end accident.



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[Paulmaz]

Wow, that’s one heck of a deal! Sounds like you’re basically getting assembly for free with that combo. For example, srq has 5100 with 880 here for $647! 4Runner Bilstein 5100 Front Shocks Pair (96-02 ) | SRQ Fabrications

Yes it is! I am holding off buying the front because i want to see how much height I get in the back with the 906s and 5100s. If I get a 2 inch lift in back, i would want a 1 inch in front (I want some rake)

The guy from wheelsofroad recommended getting the 881s and putting the 5100s on the lowest setting. I am worried about reverse rake. I am thinking the 880s on the second setting. we will see.

 

[cl4Rk]

Yes it is! I am holding off buying the front because i want to see how much height I get in the back with the 906s and 5100s. If I get a 2 inch lift in back, i would want a 1 inch in front (I want some rake)

The guy from wheelsofroad recommended getting the 881s and putting the 5100s on the lowest setting. I am worried about reverse rake. I am thinking the 880s on the second setting. we will see.

Here's my rake with 5100s, lowest perch, 880/906, but stock weight so of course YMMV: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3694270-post40.html

Currently sitting:
FRONT DRIVER: ~ 21 1/16”
FRONT PASSENGER: ~ 21 1/4”
REAR DRIVER: ~ 22 1/4”
REAR PASSENGER: ~ 22 1/4”

 

[cl4Rk]

You can try flushing 10 gallons of fluid through your transmission but it sounds like it wasn’t caught soon enough. I’d plan on replacing your transmission.

As for the cooling system side of it I would replace the radiator and then flush the cooling system with distilled water and possibly a little dawn. I’d take the thermostat out to make the flushing a little easier.

In reality there is no point in replacing the radiator and flushing the cooling system until you replace the transmission. Up to you if it’s worth the cost of replacing the transmission or not. Cheapest route would be used OEM and change it yourself. You’ll need to get the correct year and 2wd/4wd to match. 96-00 interchange and 01-02 interchange.

A new radiator, because it already happened, is a given.

If the OP drove any reasonable distance with a pink milkshake, and the trans slipped and the truck stalled, damage is potentially already done. The trans filter will need to be replaced and it would be worth manually flushing the valve body while the pan is off. Getting all that crap out of the torque converter is necessary, too.

[MENTION=674620]kevvyboy4Funner[/MENTION]

I agree with Bad Luck and octanejunkie here.

An anecdote: my friend had the pink milkshake on his 1st gen Tundra. They replaced the radiator and flushed the transmission. Maybe 40k miles and a few years later he's parked and looking for a replacement transmission. 40k miles is not too bad for a $200 radiator and maybe another couple hundred bucks worth of ATF -- BUT they caught it in time and he didn't notice any slipping/hard shifts/grinding until about 1k miles ago, and didn't get any codes until about 100 miles ago.

All that to say, IF you caught it super early and never experienced any symptoms, then replacing the radiator and flushing the trans might buy you some decent time/mileage before any real issues. Totally worth it IMO if you use the mean time time to source a replacement transmission that you then refresh and install "at your leisure" so to speak.

But given your symptoms, I also think you might consider going straight for the replacement. As Bad Luck said, it's up to you, and you'll need to decide if that's worth it or not.

Best of luck, and I'm sorry you're dealing with this.

 

[Paulmaz]

Currently sitting:
FRONT DRIVER: ~ 21 1/16”
FRONT PASSENGER: ~ 21 1/4”
REAR DRIVER: ~ 22 1/4”
REAR PASSENGER: ~ 22 1/4”

This would be perfect! ~1 inch diff.

 

[RandyBobandy]

I remember reading some posts from a few years ago saying the same thing about Marlin flywheels being LUK. There was a photo showing how bad the teeth were on one of the LUK flywheels but that may have been on a different forum I can’t remember. OEM flywheel is 28 lbs and LCE has 30 lbs and 38 lbs flywheel options. That’s a good idea on buying a used OEM and getting it resurfaced ahead of time. Any idea if parts stores do that kind of thing? I might have to call a transmission shop to get a reference.

I remember one or two Napa’s around here advertising that they do it, however I took mine to an automotive machine shop, they likely have far more experience and better equipment and were also able to replace a missing dowel pin that I lost, might be more expensive than the parts stores that say they can do it but I feel better having the machine shop do it since I really don’t want to have to replace it again shortly afterwards

 

[TW44LR]

A new radiator, because it already happened, is a given.

If the OP drove any reasonable distance with a pink milkshake, and the trans slipped and the truck stalled, damage is potentially already done. The trans filter will need to be replaced and it would be worth manually flushing the valve body while the pan is off. Getting all that crap out of the torque converter is necessary, too.

This is why it's so important to replace these radiators on schedule, every 150K. That's just 2 radiators to get to 450K, unless you overheated it or had a front end accident.



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I was waiting on a tool so that I could do the timing belt and water pump at the same time as I replaced the radiator. Literally had the radiator waiting in the shed. Pink milkshake happened the day before the tool came. Luckily I have been able to save mine so far (fingers crossed) moral of the story replace the radiator if it’s suspicious at all


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[cl4Rk]

Pink milkshake happened the day before

Wow!!

 

[Victsing]

235s fit?

I have run a few searches and still can't figure out the answer to this. Sorry for bothering you, but if anyone could help me with the following, I would be very grateful.

I have a '99 SR5. According to the door sticker, it came with 225/75/15 tires. When I got the truck, it had 31x10.5x15 tires. It has not been lifted. I need to replace the tires and it looks like 225/75/15 is no longer that common a size. Would a 235/75/15 tire fit? There is far more choice at that size, at better prices, but I want to make sure 235/75/15 will fit and be safe.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[fatherohenry]

How "stiff" should a fan clutch be?

I feel like an ass for not spending two days reading forum posts but I just started my timing belt job and noticed the fan clutch takes a fair amount of force to spin (off the vehicle). Wondering if I should order one right now in the hopes of getting it in the next day or two.

If I were to try to compare it to something, it's not quite as difficult as spinning the rotor by hand before I did the TBU but close and that's the nearest I can get to describing it. It certainly stops dead the moment I let go of it.

I've done the rolled up paper test in the past and everything seemed fine. I'd just rather deal with it now if it's time or near time.

And is 16210-62011 for $128 from dealer the way to go or would you go FCT-013 at Amazon for $85?

EDIT: I take that back, it's just as hard to spin as turning a rotor by the lugs.

 

[fatherohenry]

And is 16210-62011 for $128 from dealer the way to go or would you go FCT-013 at Amazon for $85?

Based on the fact it hasn't been giving me any trouble I ordered the FCT-013 from Amazon despite [MENTION=633155]cl4Rk[/MENTION] 's recent experience. If it was a fluke I imagine the odds of it not happening again so soon are in my favor. If it's a knockoff I'll just send it back and buy from the dealer.

 

[fatherdoug]

Based on the fact it hasn't been giving me any trouble I ordered the FCT-013 from Amazon despite [MENTION=633155]cl4Rk[/MENTION] 's recent experience. If it was a fluke I imagine the odds of it not happening again so soon are in my favor. If it's a knockoff I'll just send it back and buy from the dealer.

All I can add is that I was kicking myself 6 years ago for buying a toyota fan clutch, but that has been 6 years of no trouble!

 

[fatherohenry]

Anyone think it's possible a DeWalt DCF880HM2 impact could remove a properly torqued crank bolt? It's my understanding this thing only goes up to 150lbs, maybe a little more on breakaway.

All I know for sure is it won't budge my front diff drain plug but it didn't hesitate with the crank bolt when I tried it out of curiosity today. Out in 3 or 4 seconds. I'm guessing that just means the guy who did my timing belt job last April didn't put any muscle into it.

Come to think of it, this thing sometimes hesitates with lug nuts and that's only 85lbs.

 

[cl4Rk]

Based on the fact it hasn't been giving me any trouble I ordered the FCT-013 from Amazon despite [MENTION=633155]cl4Rk[/MENTION] 's recent experience. If it was a fluke I imagine the odds of it not happening again so soon are in my favor. If it's a knockoff I'll just send it back and buy from the dealer.

Keep us posted on if the fan clutch you receive looks genuine or not. I also think you have a good chance of getting a genuine unit.

 

[Bad Luck]

Anyone think it's possible a DeWalt DCF880HM2 impact could remove a properly torqued crank bolt? It's my understanding this thing only goes up to 150lbs, maybe a little more on breakaway.

All I know for sure is it won't budge my front diff drain plug but it didn't hesitate with the crank bolt when I tried it out of curiosity today. Out in 3 or 4 seconds. I'm guessing that just means the guy who did my timing belt job last April didn't put any muscle into it.

Come to think of it, this thing sometimes hesitates with lug nuts and that's only 85lbs.

That crank bolt was definitely not tightened enough from the previous guy. My 1/2 IR2235 impact took a couple seconds of hammering to get the crank bolt to move.

 

[MelodyRad]

Not sure if answered yet. Check out willtheyfit dot com and you can find the oem diameter and find out what you need if your changing tire ratio.

I have run a few searches and still can't figure out the answer to this. Sorry for bothering you, but if anyone could help me with the following, I would be very grateful.

I have a '99 SR5. According to the door sticker, it came with 225/75/15 tires. When I got the truck, it had 31x10.5x15 tires. It has not been lifted. I need to replace the tires and it looks like 225/75/15 is no longer that common a size. Would a 235/75/15 tire fit? There is far more choice at that size, at better prices, but I want to make sure 235/75/15 will fit and be safe.

Many thanks in advance.

 

[cl4Rk]

I have run a few searches and still can't figure out the answer to this. Sorry for bothering you, but if anyone could help me with the following, I would be very grateful.

I have a '99 SR5. According to the door sticker, it came with 225/75/15 tires. When I got the truck, it had 31x10.5x15 tires. It has not been lifted. I need to replace the tires and it looks like 225/75/15 is no longer that common a size. Would a 235/75/15 tire fit? There is far more choice at that size, at better prices, but I want to make sure 235/75/15 will fit and be safe.

Many thanks in advance.

225/75-R15 vs 235/75-R15 Tire Comparison - Tire Size Calculator | Tacoma World

The outer diameter of the original 225/75/15 is about 28.29 inches.
The outer diameter of a 235/75/15 is roughly 28.88 inches.

That's a pretty small difference in size.
Plus, the 235/75/15 tires are a little smaller than your current 31s.

They should fit with no problems.