The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[MelodyRad]

With the motor running the battery terminals should be at 14-15V. With motor off Check battery to see if it is going down--should be 12V-12.5+V with engine off. Also check alternator fusible link in engine junction box.

its at 14.7 running. new battery and alternator.

 

[MelodyRad]

The bulb is part of the charging circuit, and if the bulb has been swapped to an LED that can cause the light to stay on at all times.

The entire vehicle is unmodified. It is very unlikely that light was modified or replaced.

 

[MelodyRad]

The battery light also indicates low brake fluid in the reservoir.Check your brake fluid level.

Edit: If the brake light is also on . The brake light on also indicates alternator charging issues.

That is crazy...
But brake fluid is at healthy level. I verified ALL fluids when purchasing and monthly.

 

[MelodyRad]

What is your battery voltage while engine running cold and hot? What is your battery voltage before you start the engine? What did you replace the alternator with (brand)?

alternator level running is 14.7v.
i didnt record it not running/cold/hot.

i dont think it is relevant for brand. The light was always ON prior to replacing alternator and battery. It was ON during the entire ownership of previous owner which he has zero knowledge as to why or how the light has been always ON.

current alternator part number R110936A 70amp oreilys. Installed Turkey day 2021.

 

[Bad Luck]

alternator level running is 14.7v.
i didnt record it not running/cold/hot.

i dont think it is relevant for brand. The light was always ON prior to replacing alternator and battery. It was ON during the entire ownership of previous owner which he has zero knowledge as to why or how the light has been always ON.

current alternator part number R110936A 70amp oreilys. Installed Turkey day 2021.

Aftermarket starters and alternators are known to be junk for these vehicles. I’d recommend buying a used oem one off eBay and trying that. Should be around $60 or so. Cold start voltage and engine warm voltage would be helpful to help you.

 

[tpdietz]

Soooo I'm doing my valve cover gaskets, etc. I got everything off, and I'm about to deep clean the plenum and valve covers. This hose is giving me trouble on the upper plenum. It also doesn't look quite like the other hoses, so I'm hesitant to yank harder in an attempt to remove it. It appears to have a plastic fitting in the hose or something (see second image).

Question: How do I remove this? Yank harder?

 

[MelodyRad]

Aftermarket starters and alternators are known to be junk for these vehicles. I’d recommend buying a used oem one off eBay and trying that. Should be around $60 or so. Cold start voltage and engine warm voltage would be helpful to help you.

I have a local parts store alternator that is new that works and is producing a healthy 14.7 volts. And you are saying buy a used product that is oem to fix this concern?

That sounds like waste.

The light has always been on with the current and previous alternator.

 

[MelodyRad]

With the motor running the battery terminals should be at 14-15V. With motor off Check battery to see if it is going down--should be 12V-12.5+V with engine off. Also check alternator fusible link in engine junction box.

its at 14.7 running running. new battery and alternator.

its sunday now, haven't driven since friday noon.
Engine off cold 12.5 volts
Engine on cold 14.37 volts
Engine on warm 14.61 volts
Note. Warm = engine temp at operating temp.

 

[Bad Luck]

I have a local parts store alternator that is new that works and is producing a healthy 14.7 volts. And you are saying buy a used product that is oem to fix this concern?

That sounds like waste.

The light has always been on with the current and previous alternator.

You already wasted money on an aftermarket alternator and the light is still on so ya I’m suggesting buying a used OME component that has a much higher likelihood of working than the new aftermarket one.

 

[MelodyRad]

You already wasted money on an aftermarket alternator and the light is still on so ya I’m suggesting buying a used OME component that has a much higher likelihood of working than the new aftermarket one.

That’s all opinion.

 

[MelodyRad]

You already wasted money on an aftermarket alternator and the light is still on so ya I’m suggesting buying a used OME component that has a much higher likelihood of working than the new aftermarket one.

Thanks for the input however.

 

[Paulmaz]

New Suspension for 02 2WD

Just bought a 2002 2Wd with 290K Miles, with 16 in. wheels. Runs great, but suspension is bad and maybe original!

What are your thoughts on this configuration. Looking for a moderate lift from this (under 2 inches)

REAR:
Moog 81041 Coils
Bilstein 5100

FRONT:
Moog 81088 Coils
Bilstein 5100 24-248730
Monroe 904900 Strut-Mate Strut Mounting Kit
Gabriel 142467 Hardware Kit

any pros/cons would be very helpful!

Also buying a Spring Compression tool for the front:
ABN 11.5in Strut Spring Compressor Tool – Set of 2 (Pair) – Macpherson Spring Compression, 13/16in Socket 1/2in Drive

thanks,
Paul

 

[RandyBobandy]

14.6 warm sounds too high, voltage regulator on the alternator probably isn’t functioning properly

 

[tpdietz]

Soooo I'm doing my valve cover gaskets, etc. I got everything off, and I'm about to deep clean the plenum and valve covers. This hose is giving me trouble on the upper plenum. It also doesn't look quite like the other hoses, so I'm hesitant to yank harder in an attempt to remove it. It appears to have a plastic fitting in the hose or something (see second image).

Question: How do I remove this? Yank harder?

BUMP!

Going to tackle this today and hopefully apply some new aluminum colored engine paint on the valve covers and plenums. Shameless bump in hopes someone knows the answer

 

[tpdietz]

Just bought a 2002 2Wd with 290K Miles, with 16 in. wheels. Runs great, but suspension is bad and maybe original!

What are your thoughts on this configuration. Looking for a moderate lift from this (under 2 inches)

REAR:
Moog 81041 Coils
Bilstein 5100

FRONT:
Moog 81088 Coils
Bilstein 5100 24-248730
Monroe 904900 Strut-Mate Strut Mounting Kit
Gabriel 142467 Hardware Kit

any pros/cons would be very helpful!

Also buying a Spring Compression tool for the front:
ABN 11.5in Strut Spring Compressor Tool – Set of 2 (Pair) – Macpherson Spring Compression, 13/16in Socket 1/2in Drive

thanks,
Paul

I haven't heard of too many folks on here running Moog coils so I can't speak to that, but the Bilstein 5100's seem like a tried and true solution that many people run. I've heard many people say having the coils pre-installed is very convenient if you can swing it. This is the route I went down, and I certainly didn't mind saving a few hours of work and the potential risk of hurting myself. YMMV. Keep in mind removing the top hats from the existing front coilovers could be a PITA depending on the current condition. When doing my lift install, removing the three bolts to get the front shocks out was the hardest part. I had to cut my rusted bolts out (every single one of them), which mean't I would've had to buy new parts anyways if I was going to install the coils on the front strut myself myself.

I recently installed a mild lift kit (Dobinsons 2-inch) and the biggest advice I can give you is to buy adjustable upper control arms upfront. It's nearly impossible to get the correct caster without and will drastically change how the truck drives. I also suggest inspecting your lower control arm cam bolts to ensure they aren't rusted/seized so you can adjust caster and camber. Mine are seized and need replacing. My next top priority purchase is adjustable upper control arms and replace my lower control arm bushings/cam bolts. My current caster is 0.3 and 0.6 degrees - ideally you want +3.5-4.5. My 4runner is a little bit like driving a shopping cart at the moment (squirrely) since my cam bolts are seized and I'm running OEM uca's.

Not sure your budget but here's a link to a couple lift kits based off the 5100 shocks:

Bilstein/OME Stage 1 Lift Kit - 3rd Gen 4Runner (1996-02) - YotaMafia (no uca's)
Bilstein/OME Stage 2 Lift Kit - 3rd Gen 4Runner (1996-02) - YotaMafia (w/ uca's)

Good luck and happy wrenching!

 

[Paulmaz]

Thanks for the notes. This car is for my son, so low budget! I agree with you on the front. I have not bought anything yet for that, as I would like to see if I can can find a pre-installed coil with absorber. Not a huge selection on rock auto.

For the rear, I pulled the trigger and ordered the Bilsteins and the Moogs. I have read a lot, while not best, not worst, and worst case they can be easily changed out. The pair was $48. I will do this, and see how she looks and responds then think about the front. I am thinking i should do the sway bar links while at it, because i am loosening them as i do it. Thoughts?

 

[Bad Luck]

Thanks for the notes. This car is for my son, so low budget! I agree with you on the front. I have not bought anything yet for that, as I would like to see if I can can find a pre-installed coil with absorber. Not a huge selection on rock auto.

For the rear, I pulled the trigger and ordered the Bilsteins and the Moogs. I have read a lot, while not best, not worst, and worst case they can be easily changed out. The pair was $48. I will do this, and see how she looks and responds then think about the front. I am thinking i should do the sway bar links while at it, because i am loosening them as i do it. Thoughts?

If you haven't replaced the lower ball joints and lower ball joint bolts with OEM I would focus on that first. A failed lower ball joint has the potential to total the vehicle and potentially hurt/kill people.

 

[fatherohenry]

BUMP!

Going to tackle this today and hopefully apply some new aluminum colored engine paint on the valve covers and plenums. Shameless bump in hopes someone knows the answer

Is that some sort of clamp on the end of that hose? If you can't pry it off, maybe cut it off and replace it. It's just a vacuum hose.

My '96 looks different.

 

[Paulmaz]

Thanks for this info. Looks like parts are about $250 but job is beyond my skill. Any idea on cost at dealer? I guess I could buy OEM and i know a mechanic who can do it with the parts I supply.

 

[Bad Luck]

Thanks for this info. Looks like parts are about $250 but job is beyond my skill. Any idea on cost at dealer? I guess I could buy OEM and i know a mechanic who can do it with the parts I supply.

Have you watched mtbtim's youtube video on it? It's really easy in my opinion, but I know some people excel in different areas. Here's the video if you want to look it over: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2329586-post17.html If you decide to get a mechanic to do it I would estimate 2-3 hours of shop labor as long as the vehicle isn't heavily rusted. I'd recommend putting the lower ball joint bolts in a sandwich bag with a note stating the torque value.