The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Devbot]

Sorry if this is unrelated and/or reviving an old thread

I have a 2001 SR5 4Runner 2WD 3.4L V6 and just last week while I was driving on the highway the battery light came on and next thing you know the engine died. All the electronics were on just the motor died. Tried restarting and jumping but it will crank and crank but no turn over. Prior to it dying I was having issues of the gas pedal feeling like it would give out and only accelerate it it was pressed all the way, along with small shakes when accelerating over 1.5k ( 50+ mph)

Had it towed back home to work on and diagnose the code that was being thrown, it was the 1st position o2 sensor soI changed out both the 1st and 2nd one and still no start.

The fuel pump is pumping (changed last month), fuel filter is clear (also changed last month), fuel pump regulator is pumping as well (just changed), MAF is clean (also just changed), spark plugs&wires&coil packs are also brand new. Throwing no codes and still wont start even with starting fluid.

At my wits end with the car and any suggestion would be greatly appreciated

I'm assuming the e-brake light came on too? Brake + batt = alternator problems. I think just the battery light means the alt is undercharging? Could be wrong
I'm willing to bet your O2 codes were pending but have yet to trip the CEL; there's zero reason a bad O2 sensor would trigger a battery light or suddenly shut down the car.

 

[Skulking]

I'm assuming the e-brake light came on too? Brake + batt = alternator problems. I think just the battery light means the alt is undercharging? Could be wrong
I'm willing to bet your O2 codes were pending but have yet to trip the CEL; there's zero reason a bad O2 sensor would trigger a battery light or suddenly shut down the car.

The battery light does indicate the alternator isn't charging the battery, but my guess is that is unrelated to the actual problem. The car can run without the alternator as long as the battery is okay, and if it's still cranking just not starting it sounds like the battery is okay. It wouldn't hurt to check by jumping the car though. My guess is that the battery light came on after the engine stopped running, or possibly just as it was stopping and is just a symptom rather than an indication of a cause.

If you have an OBD2 reader I'd look at the TPS output to see if there is a dead spot in there as that might cause the accelerator to feel strange. I don't really think that is likely though as the shaking when accelerating and sluggish feeling sound more like a misfire to me which would then make more sense combined with the car not starting at all now. I'd go back to the basics and re-verify that you have air, fuel, and spark.

 

[octanejunkie]

The battery light does indicate the alternator isn't charging the battery, but my guess is that is unrelated to the actual problem. The car can run without the alternator as long as the battery is okay, and if it's still cranking just not starting it sounds like the battery is okay. It wouldn't hurt to check by jumping the car though. My guess is that the battery light came on after the engine stopped running, or possibly just as it was stopping and is just a symptom rather than an indication of a cause.



If you have an OBD2 reader I'd look at the TPS output to see if there is a dead spot in there as that might cause the accelerator to feel strange. I don't really think that is likely though as the shaking when accelerating and sluggish feeling sound more like a misfire to me which would then make more sense combined with the car not starting at all now. I'd go back to the basics and re-verify that you have air, fuel, and spark.

Battery light on the dash - make sure the alternator plug on the harness didn't loosen up - I've had this happen with 2 different factory alternators so I knew it wasn't the alternator.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[tpdietz]

Help! So I just did my valve covers. Now I have a CEL - P0340 which is "Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1".

I guess I'm looking for advice for next steps. Is this just a coincidence that this CEL came on? Or is it possible I messed something up. From a quick google, seems like the camshaft position sensor is under the timing belt over, which I did not remove to do the valve covers. Should I replace it? Did I simply pull too hard on some wires? I'm fine ordering a new camshaft position sensor if needed, but since I wasn't directly in that area, I'm wondering if replacing it won't fix the problem.

 

[octanejunkie]

Help! So I just did my valve covers. Now I have a CEL - P0340 which is "Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1".



I guess I'm looking for advice for next steps. Is this just a coincidence that this CEL came on? Or is it possible I messed something up. From a quick google, seems like the camshaft position sensor is under the timing belt over, which I did not remove to do the valve covers. Should I replace it? Did I simply pull too hard on some wires? I'm fine ordering a new camshaft position sensor if needed, but since I wasn't directly in that area, I'm wondering if replacing it won't fix the problem.

Check all the wiring connections around the front of the engine, unplug and replug

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[spartacus]

Sorry if this is unrelated and/or reviving an old thread

I have a 2001 SR5 4Runner 2WD 3.4L V6 and just last week while I was driving on the highway the battery light came on and next thing you know the engine died. All the electronics were on just the motor died. Tried restarting and jumping but it will crank and crank but no turn over. Prior to it dying I was having issues of the gas pedal feeling like it would give out and only accelerate it it was pressed all the way, along with small shakes when accelerating over 1.5k ( 50+ mph)

Had it towed back home to work on and diagnose the code that was being thrown, it was the 1st position o2 sensor soI changed out both the 1st and 2nd one and still no start.

The fuel pump is pumping (changed last month), fuel filter is clear (also changed last month), fuel pump regulator is pumping as well (just changed), MAF is clean (also just changed), spark plugs&wires&coil packs are also brand new. Throwing no codes and still wont start even with starting fluid.

At my wits end with the car and any suggestion would be greatly appreciated

Checking the fuses and the grounds wouldn't hurt.

 

[spartacus]

Help! So I just did my valve covers. Now I have a CEL - P0340 which is "Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Bank 1".

I guess I'm looking for advice for next steps. Is this just a coincidence that this CEL came on? Or is it possible I messed something up. From a quick google, seems like the camshaft position sensor is under the timing belt over, which I did not remove to do the valve covers. Should I replace it? Did I simply pull too hard on some wires? I'm fine ordering a new camshaft position sensor if needed, but since I wasn't directly in that area, I'm wondering if replacing it won't fix the problem.

The cam sensor is behind the timing cover but the connector is on the outside of the cover. Also check the wiring is good.

 

[Cargo Cult]

Trying to diagnose an A/C problem. System blows air but only at ambient temp - no hot OR cold. When turning A/C on, no noticeable change in RPM.

Checked blower motor and blend doors and all seem to be working as expected. Where should I be looking next for an issue?

 

[fatherohenry]

Came across someone selling this alternator. Wants $35. Thought it might be worth buying to rebuild it. I have zero experience with alternators but the windings look a bit corroded to me.

Any thoughts about it being worth the effort?

 

[Bad Luck]

Trying to diagnose an A/C problem. System blows air but only at ambient temp - no hot OR cold. When turning A/C on, no noticeable change in RPM.

Checked blower motor and blend doors and all seem to be working as expected. Where should I be looking next for an issue?

Does the ac compressor clutch engage when you turn the ac on? If it doesn’t then you likely have too little/no refrigerant which would indicate a leak in the ac system. Could also be a bad ac compressor or a bad low pressure switch. 99 percent of the time it’s low/no refrigerant caused by a leak in the ac system. To verify you’ll need to hook up an ac manifold gauge set and look at your pressures.

 

[Coloradobluesky]

Finally have the issue fixed. I found a Toyota shop called Toy Shop in Denver. It turns out the fuel pressure regulator was leaking. It's all fixed now.

 

[Bad Luck]

Can someone verify some part numbers for me? I'm looking to replace the output seal on a R150F and the input seal for the transfer case.
I've got 90311-40007 for the transmission output seal and 90311-40021 for the transfer case input seal.

EDIT: 2000 V6/Manual/4wd

 

[HiLife]

Can someone verify some part numbers for me? I'm looking to replace the output seal on a R150F and the input seal for the transfer case.
I've got 90311-40007 for the transmission output seal and 90311-40021 for the transfer case input seal.

EDIT: 2000 V6/Manual/4wd

I got the same, 2000 5VZ R150F 4wd
Trans output seal: 90311-40007
TC input seal: 90311-40021

 

[Rockwell]

I hope this is the right place to ask this. I just got an chance to buy a buddy's GX460 for a great price and it has me thinking about selling my 99 4Runner but I have no idea how to price it in this market. I am in Colorado.

1999 SR5 Black with brown cloth interior, 250K miles
5 Speed with URD Short Shifter
Factory E-Locker
TRD Supercharger just had nose cone serviced
King Coilovers with SPC UCA in Front, OME springs and shocks in back
A few dents/scratches/rock chips but exterior is still in great shape
The truck runs great, I get compliments every time it is at the dealership or shop.

Looking around craiglist I think I should be able to get $15k, maybe $20K?

 

[octanejunkie]

I hope this is the right place to ask this. I just got an chance to buy a buddy's GX460 for a great price and it has me thinking about selling my 99 4Runner but I have no idea how to price it in this market. I am in Colorado.



1999 SR5 Black with brown cloth interior, 250K miles

5 Speed with URD Short Shifter

Factory E-Locker

TRD Supercharger just had nose cone serviced

King Coilovers with SPC UCA in Front, OME springs and shocks in back

A few dents/scratches/rock chips but exterior is still in great shape

The truck runs great, I get compliments every time it is at the dealership or shop.



Looking around craiglist I think I should be able to get $15k, maybe $20K?

It really depends on condition, the market/inventory and the buyer - and how desperate/motivated & knowledgeable they are.

When I was recently looking it was obvious that prices were on the rise and I knew exactly what I wanted - I was prepared to pay a premium for it. Those buyers are out there and I think you can get your price with the right buyer.

Pics would obviously help but if I were to spend $20K I'd personally want proof of all major maintenance done, recently (radiator, timing belt, LBJs, etc) and age/miles on upgrades, fluid change history, etc.

GLWS!

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Bad Luck]

I hope this is the right place to ask this. I just got an chance to buy a buddy's GX460 for a great price and it has me thinking about selling my 99 4Runner but I have no idea how to price it in this market. I am in Colorado.

1999 SR5 Black with brown cloth interior, 250K miles
5 Speed with URD Short Shifter
Factory E-Locker
TRD Supercharger just had nose cone serviced
King Coilovers with SPC UCA in Front, OME springs and shocks in back
A few dents/scratches/rock chips but exterior is still in great shape
The truck runs great, I get compliments every time it is at the dealership or shop.

Looking around craiglist I think I should be able to get $15k, maybe $20K?

Based on what you said and today's market I would think $18k would be a good starting point with room to negotiate if you are willing to deal with people and have some time to wait. $15k would make for a quicker sale. $13k would have it sold that day.

DISCLAIMER: This is assuming you have kept up on regular maintenance, the interior is 8/10 or better, and there aren't any services/repairs that will need to be performed in the next 5k miles/6 months. Any repairs falling in the 5k miles/6 months I deduct from my offer as a buyer.

 

[Devbot]

Takes a WHOLE, whole lot of audacity to charge $20k on a very common and slightly beat up vehicle with a quarter million miles on it, imo... :israel: :ranger:

 

[Brian.]

Takes a WHOLE, whole lot of audacity to charge $20k on a very common and slightly beat up vehicle with a quarter million miles on it, imo... :israel: :ranger:

Shoot... another couple of weeks and that's about what a gallon of milk and loaf of bread will cost...

I say if you can take advantage of demand, why not? I don't care if I part a fool with their money... not *MY* responsibility to educate them. I doubt it'd fetch $20k, but who knows... that member who had a tree drop on his rig a couple years back got $16K? out of the insurance company... so apparently the value is there in some cases.

People are asking, and paying, a Whole lot more than $20k for even older, and higher mile, 4x4 vehicles (FJ60/62/45/etc...)

 

[jefferson95]

Shoot... another couple of weeks and that's about what a gallon of milk and loaf of bread will cost...

I say if you can take advantage of demand, why not? I don't care if I part a fool with their money... not *MY* responsibility to educate them. I doubt it'd fetch $20k, but who knows... that member who had a tree drop on his rig a couple years back got $16K? out of the insurance company... so apparently the value is there in some cases.

People are asking, and paying, a Whole lot more than $20k for even older, and higher mile, 4x4 vehicles (FJ60/62/45/etc...)

CO, and SoCal Tax on some of these are no joke....
So yes, it is much higher than it was 2-4 years ago, but like you said, as long as some people are willing to pay for it, there will be a market for it

 

[Bad Luck]

CO, and SoCal Tax on some of these are no joke....
So yes, it is much higher than it was 2-4 years ago, but like you said, as long as some people are willing to pay for it, there will be a market for it

If you are spamming the 3rd gen section in order to get your posts count up in order to start a thread, then just ask your question here. Otherwise, please stop spamming threads. It's annoying (people will be less likely to help you).