The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[Alejandro_runner]

Way less work (and cheaper) to just get a replacement key.

To the best of my knowledge, and I've done a LOT of reading on this topic, no one has successfully removed the immobilizer. To be fair, I haven't seen anyone try either... the closest I can think of would be a couple instances of auto to manual swaps where one ECU was immobilizer equipped and the other not. So maybe try sourcing a body ECU from a version that didn't have the immobilizer system. You will probably have to re-pin some connectors and it may not work still, but that's the path I'd explore.

Yes, I have seen it in several places and it is true that it is almost impossible, but I want to know if there is any way for the immobilizer system to remain active without having a problem with the button when turning on my 4runner. I would like you to help me with that to see how to maintain it. active

 

[Devbot]

Anybody know how to get these little buggers (00 Camry fog light switch) to illuminate when turned on? I assumed it would by default but apparently not. Presumably it needs to be tapped to a 12V circuit in the dash? Im currently using it for an LED bar wired right to the battery on its own circuit

Bumping, since my switch has positive running in/out I ran a ground wire to the third post and still no light The switch is brand new, I don't think it would be burned out, would it? :dizzy:

 

[octanejunkie]

Bumping, since my switch has positive running in/out I ran a ground wire to the third post and still no light The switch is brand new, I don't think it would be burned out, would it? :dizzy:

Test the switch on the bench. 3 pin lighted switches are usually always lit when wired correctly, 4+ pin switches give you the option of wiring the light and load separately.

Here's a typical 3 pin lighted switch diagram. Of course a load like a fan in the pic would want a relay wired in.

 

[Devbot]

When people talk about running Eibach coils, are you guys talking about these sold under Toytec's name (p/n 112-620-P) or these sold under Eibach's name (p/n E30-82-006-05-20)?
I find a lot more information of the Toytec ones, and I know the companies are related so I figure they must've been rebranded at some point

 

[Dezert4Runner]

When people talk about running Eibach coils, are you guys talking about these sold under Toytec's name (p/n 112-620-P) or these sold under Eibach's name (p/n E30-82-006-05-20)?
I find a lot more information of the Toytec ones, and I know the companies are related so I figure they must've been rebranded at some point

The E30-82-006-05-20 says “Front Springs Only. Must be used with Eibach Pro-Truck Sport Front Shocks”. I would ignore those unless you want to run their lift shocks. I don’t know what would make those shocks different enough than the D558 Bilsteins to warrant a different coil. Perhaps the length or diameter is different.

 

[Devbot]

The E30-82-006-05-20 says “Front Springs Only. Must be used with Eibach Pro-Truck Sport Front Shocks”. I would ignore those unless you want to run their lift shocks. I don’t know what would make those shocks different enough than the D558 Bilsteins to warrant a different coil. Perhaps the length or diameter is different.

I could've sworn that was the norm for their products but I just checked and it would appear not. Guess that's that, then
Sucks cause if I go any higher up front I'm gonna need SPC/Mevotech UCAs and maybe limiting straps, but everything I read says they're a much, much better coil to use so whatcha gonna do? :wof::wof:

 

[Devbot]

Anyone know how many amps the OEM diff lock switches are rated for? I'm pretty sure I read something unexpectedly high like 30A before but I've scoured maybe 10-15 threads and can't find where I got that information :frusty:

 

[4LoAndLocked]

how can I program key fob on a 2000 if my lock and unlock don't work unless key is in... I'm lost

 

[JustAYodaGuy]

Fuel Pressure

Can anyone give me the recommended fuel pressure at the rail or in line on the 3.4L 3rd Gen?

 

[spartacus]

Can anyone give me the recommended fuel pressure at the rail or in line on the 3.4L 3rd Gen?

There is a good description in the following thread.
Bad fuel pump??

 

[Colorado buff]

Probably a bad wheel speed sensor, maybe a damaged wire. That'd be where I would start

Thanks

 

[JustAYodaGuy]

Thank you for that! ����

 

[Senza]

I have an 01 Limited 2WD, can i use any transmission from 3rd gen to swap a 4WD into it? i know the newer ones come with the electronic shifter but i would rather have the J shifter for 4WD. is it possible to do a conversion at all and/or with any year of 3rd gen? what would the cost be?

 

[octanejunkie]

I have an 01 Limited 2WD, can i use any transmission from 3rd gen to swap a 4WD into it? i know the newer ones come with the electronic shifter but i would rather have the J shifter for 4WD. is it possible to do a conversion at all and/or with any year of 3rd gen? what would the cost be?

The J shift transfer case was not an option in 01 Limiteds so you will have to deal with a lot of electrical and electronic modifications, specifically getting an the 4WD ECU from the donor vehicle along with the AT trans and transfer case and integrating into your vehicle's harness. You will also need to add the 4WD transmission crossmember and remove the current one. You will also need the entire front driveline and new spindles to accept CV joints. And many other things, too.

Anything is possible. Depends on the how much work you are willing do, plus the cost of all the parts/a donor rig, time, space, tools, etc. Total cost is directly related to all that, and whether you do all the work yourself or have it done.

 

[Bad Luck]

I have an 01 Limited 2WD, can i use any transmission from 3rd gen to swap a 4WD into it? i know the newer ones come with the electronic shifter but i would rather have the J shifter for 4WD. is it possible to do a conversion at all and/or with any year of 3rd gen? what would the cost be?

You will need a transmission from a 2001-2002 4wd. 01/02 transmissions did not have the line pressure control cable going from the transmission to the throttle body.

You can use a j shift transfer case, but might run into difficulty with the electronic side of the swap. The most straight forward swap for you would be to find an 01/02 donor vehicle so you will have everything you need to swap it over and function as factory.

In addition to the parts octanejunkie listed above, you will need the front and rear driveshafts and the rear upper control arms, transmission shifter assembly and a section of the body where the shifter comes through as well as the interior trim pieces for it.

 

[Storm01]

Knock knock...who's there?

Hey all. I figured I'd ask here since you all are incredibly helpful with the issues with my rig. My T4R; a 2001 with the 5VZ-FE has been making this knocking sound for roughly a year and a half almost two years, runs great other than the noise. She has 310,000 overall but only 110,000 on rebuilt motor. This truck is my daily/hunting/wheeling rig. During the summer, I drive through the mountain pass every weekend for my job in Garden City @ 50-65MPH around 2000-3000RPM. No loss of power, still pulls strong; especially in the low end. The knock tends to be the loudest in gear, cold. The knock gets much less noticeable once she's up to temp and warm. Once it's in Reverse or Drive, she knocks the loudest; put it in neutral/park and it almost vanishes but you can still slightly hear it. The knock seems to be loudest near the bottom half of the engine bay/transmission area. The knock can be heard from idle to roughly 1800-2000RPM then it vanishes or gets drowned out by the exhaust/fan. It gets quieter as RPMs increase. I cut open my oil filter every oil change to try and find evidence of maybe a Rod/Crank bearing wearing out and no metal at all . Always comes out smooth and good oil pressure. I tried running my automotive magnet that I use for Diesel work through it and no metal that I'm able to see/pick up. I understand that the 3.4 is a very strong motor but if this was a major, catastrophic issue, she would have blown up a long time ago. Any advice? Here's some videos I recorded of the sound, sorry if they aren't the best. I'm thinking the flexplate/TC or maybe a piston issue? Any help is appreciated.
5VZFE initial cold start knock - YouTube
5VZFE knock: Cold at idle - YouTube
5VZFE knock: warm at idle - YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpGfh1TECq4

 

[jrm]

Tundra Brake Upgrade - Junk Yard or Reman Calipers?

Noticed that reman calipers are going for $120 w/o a core or $91 ea. with a core. And that the same calipers from a junk yard can be had for at least half that. What are risks buying calipers from a junk yard? Is there a way to test um to make sure they still work?

:beer: Cheers

 

[octanejunkie]

Noticed that reman calipers are going for $120 w/o a core or $91 ea. with a core. And that the same calipers from a junk yard can be had for at least half that. What are risks buying calipers from a junk yard? Is there a way to test um to make sure they still work?

[emoji481] Cheers

Remans are already rebuilt and hopefully under some QC and testing process. Junkyard calipers is like gambling unless you rebuild them.

I have a set of new calipers, drilled and slotted rotors and pads for sale that I'm not using, $200 complete. Where are you located?

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[jrm]

Sorry i didnt mention that im after tundra 213 calipers...Im in Alameda,Ca.

 

[octanejunkie]

Sorry i didnt mention that im after tundra 213 calipers...Im in Alameda,Ca.

Casting 13WL is what you're after

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