The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
Anyone ever throw vinyl seats in their 4Runner? We have them in our Jeep and it's easily some of the best money ever spent; you almost NEVER have to clean them and when you do it's a simple wipe down with a rag. I'm curious to see what they'd look like in our vehicles, I think they have the potential to fit right in if you get a matching color
 
[MENTION=549924]Devbot[/MENTION], vinyl seat covers ah hell no my azz stuck to burnt legs first 18 yrs of my life.

Like the idea 2017-18 I checked into using marine grade more boat shops than auto shops my area.
Colors close required Fr & Rr for me, not looking for that at the time.
20 yr old Boats taken care of can look good figure it'd be same better in Runner.
 
Your ECT's @ 90-92*F 180* T-Stat

I'm seeing 187-192* 22k mi on everything plus condensor OE T-stat @ 06:00.

That's Spec, courious what people are actually seeing.
Came to mind browsing parts other day, would a 170* T-stat have any benefit ?
 
[MENTION=549924]Devbot[/MENTION], vinyl seat covers ah hell no my azz stuck to burnt legs first 18 yrs of my life.

Like the idea 2017-18 I checked into using marine grade more boat shops than auto shops my area.
Colors close required Fr & Rr for me, not looking for that at the time.
20 yr old Boats taken care of can look good figure it'd be same better in Runner.

I wasn't talking about covers, I was talking about a full replacement and reupholstery, I think seat covers look and feel very cheap personally. Vinyl does indeed get hot but nothing worse than leather. I actually prefer cloth 9/10 times however I work a job that gets incredibly dirty sometimes (diesel tech/engineer for power generation), so I'm willing to put up with toasty seats instead some that are all black and stained from carbon. I don't even own a pair of shorts so it shouldn't be a problem really :thumb:
Marine grade is a clever idea, there's some good automotive upholstery around me but I also live on the coast in a port town, so definitely no shortage of boat shops either. I'll keep that in the back of my mind
 
Last edited:
Hey I blew my efi fuel fuse on my 1999 v6 manual today because my o2 sensor was fried. I accidentally ran it over the exhaust which melted the inside wires. I got the fuse replaced and just disconnected the sensor. I still need to pass smog though so I need it connected. I was wondering if I could repair it by splicing in new wires or if I need to buy a new one. I just don’t know if it fried the entire sensor or just the wires and I don’t feel like buying another fuse so I kinda need a for sure answer. Thanks!
 
Hey I blew my efi fuel fuse on my 1999 v6 manual today because my o2 sensor was fried. I accidentally ran it over the exhaust which melted the inside wires. I got the fuse replaced and just disconnected the sensor. I still need to pass smog though so I need it connected. I was wondering if I could repair it by splicing in new wires or if I need to buy a new one. I just don’t know if it fried the entire sensor or just the wires and I don’t feel like buying another fuse so I kinda need a for sure answer. Thanks!

Why not just splice new wires and give it a gamble? Worst case scenario you're out 10 cents worth of red+black and 10 minutes of your time, best case you saved yourself like $50
 
What are yalls thoughts on buying an already built 2000 4runner with 215,000 miles on it. But it has been baselined along with upgrades and well maintained vs buying a stock 4runner with lower mileage and doing the baseline and upgrades yourself.
 
What are yalls thoughts on buying an already built 2000 4runner with 215,000 miles on it. But it has been baselined along with upgrades and well maintained vs buying a stock 4runner with lower mileage and doing the baseline and upgrades yourself.
I always prefer to do my own mods, upgrades and maintenance, but there is a market for "built" vehicles.

It all comes down to:
1. Do you like what the PO did, does it align with your use-goals?
2. Do you trust their word/records?
3. Does the price being asked represent value to you?

No matter what 20+ year old vehicle you buy, always plan on doing a share of maintenance and updates for piece of mind.

I'll always check and/or replace fluids, brakes and plan on LBJs, radiator, timing belt, tires, etc. I budget $2-3K for that on top of the purchase price to freshen up the rig; not including any mods.

At the very least, if you are not in love with the rig and what the PO did, you may want to think twice - especially at a premium price.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
I always prefer to do my own mods, upgrades and maintenance, but there is a market for "built" vehicles.

It all comes down to:
1. Do you like what the PO did, does it align with your use-goals?
2. Do you trust their word/records?
3. Does the price being asked represent value to you?

No matter what 20+ year old vehicle you buy, always plan on doing a share of maintenance and updates for piece of mind.

I'll always check and/or replace fluids, brakes and plan on LBJs, radiator, timing belt, tires, etc. I budget $2-3K for that on top of the purchase price to freshen up the rig; not including any mods.

At the very least, if you are not in love with the rig and what the PO did, you may want to think twice - especially at a premium price.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


+1 on all of this, couldn’t agree more.

And if maintenance records are unable to be produced, I’d be very hesitant to pull the trigger on it. Not only do you not know for certain if the work was done or not, but you would have no way of knowing what kind of parts were used, especially for the big ticket items. OEM vs aftermarket.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
How much lift before corrections?

I just want to know how much lift I can have, front and back separately, before I need to start lowering the diffs extending brake lines and all that.

1998 4wd limited

If you have direct kits or spring and shock combos please post them and let me know!
 
I was thinking the same thing. Though, here is what the PO has done.

Details
-3-inch Toytech suspension lift
--with new links, coilovers, etc.
-Custom Offsets Wheels and Tires
--Alloy Ion Wheels: 15x8 -27mm Matte Black
--33x12.50R Mickey Thompson Baja ATZ P3 (roughly 4,000 miles)
-All new brakes/calipers, Toyota oem
-Custom Coastal Offroad front bumper with led turn signals
-Morimoto Bi-Xenon Elite HID headlights
-Smoked front turn lenses
-LED fog lights
-Toytec SPC adjustable upper control arms
-New Toyota OEM rack/pinion (March-2022)
-Toyota OEM CV axels replaced (Nov-2021)
-Beefy sway bar links & rubber bushing on sway bar replaced
-Both ball joints replaced Toyota OEM (Jan-2022)
-Adjustable panhard bar installed
-All transmission & crank seals replaced (April-2022)
-New aftermarket skid plates
-New muffler and complete exhaust tail pipe
-Timing belt replaced at 205K miles
-New OEM radiator
-Brand new carpet installed (April-2022)
--Interior is spotless and is in perfect condition
-8inch touch screen radio
-4 new Rockford Fosgate speakers
-WeatherTech floor mats
-Rubber gaskets replaced on doors and rear hatch
-Outside molding replaced on all 4 doors
-Prinsu Full Roof Rack with cutout for light bar

So many more upgrades and new OEM parts installed.
 
I just want to know how much lift I can have, front and back separately, before I need to start lowering the diffs extending brake lines and all that.



1998 4wd limited



If you have direct kits or spring and shock combos please post them and let me know!
Any lift over 2" will need a longer rear brake line. Front brake lines don't need to be extended.

Also, any lift over 2.5" will affect suspension geometry and factory components need to be considered: upper ball joints, lower ball joints, rear links, bushings, etc.

A front diff drop is debatable since all you are doing is pivoting the front of the diff down with 1" spacers.

There are a few threads in the Intro section on lifts: basic info and parts

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
Hi all, I will have some 3rd Gen questions in the future (got a 1996). But yesterday I purchased a 4th Gen. Is there a 4th Gen All Questions thread for those of us under the minimum post count?

Thanks!
 
1997 Toyota 4 runner 4 wheel drive not engaging

Alright so I have a 1997 Toyota 4 runner automatic and its 4wd I had a old engine in it and used 4 wheel drive multiple times and a little green light would show up that I am in 4wd high or 4wd low.I recently did a engine swap because the motor was blown.Engine runs fine and has 113k miles on it the only problem is that when I try to engage 4wd the green light doesn't show up on the dash but I do hear the gears kind of working down there when I move the 4wd stick its just not engaging.Seeing if the forum would be able to help me out on this problem I am having.Yes I already checked all my connections to see if everything was done right(I labeled every connection before taking out motor).
 
Alright so I have a 1997 Toyota 4 runner automatic and its 4wd I had a old engine in it and used 4 wheel drive multiple times and a little green light would show up that I am in 4wd high or 4wd low.I recently did a engine swap because the motor was blown.Engine runs fine and has 113k miles on it the only problem is that when I try to engage 4wd the green light doesn't show up on the dash but I do hear the gears kind of working down there when I move the 4wd stick its just not engaging.Seeing if the forum would be able to help me out on this problem I am having.Yes I already checked all my connections to see if everything was done right(I labeled every connection before taking out motor).
Limited or SR5/Sport? What t-case you have matters immensely
 
Alright so I have a 1997 Toyota 4 runner automatic and its 4wd I had a old engine in it and used 4 wheel drive multiple times and a little green light would show up that I am in 4wd high or 4wd low.I recently did a engine swap because the motor was blown.Engine runs fine and has 113k miles on it the only problem is that when I try to engage 4wd the green light doesn't show up on the dash but I do hear the gears kind of working down there when I move the 4wd stick its just not engaging.Seeing if the forum would be able to help me out on this problem I am having.Yes I already checked all my connections to see if everything was done right(I labeled every connection before taking out motor).
Probably a vacuum issue. Either the vacuum hose for the vacuum canister/vsv is not connected to the correct spot (I did that the first time I did valve cover gaskets) or you have a problem with the vsv itself. I would check to see if you have vacuum at the front add actuator when you have the transfer case in 4wd.
 
Any lift over 2" will need a longer rear brake line. Front brake lines don't need to be extended.

Also, any lift over 2.5" will affect suspension geometry and factory components need to be considered: upper ball joints, lower ball joints, rear links, bushings, etc.

A front diff drop is debatable since all you are doing is pivoting the front of the diff down with 1" spacers.

So I'm looking at a kit that is 2" front with medium load and 2" rear with heavy load (660 lbs). I'm right on the 2" so all I would need to do is extend rear brake lines at that point? The kit is an Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro if that helps at all.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,310
Messages
3,554,080
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top