The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[gomezdanny6921]

My pedal takes a while to actually pull on the throttle body cable I know I could just adjust the cable but this blue thing on my pedal looks like it’s missing a bushing or is sticking out too much . Anyone know a diy fix thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kwheels]

Trying to chase down some issues on my 96.

Had a misfire when I got it from a family member. Due to time constraints I had a mechanic replace spark plugs/wires and a suspected bad coil. Helped, but still misfiring on cylinder 4.

So I ordered some remanufactured injectors from eBay (cheap) to throw in while I have the OGs sent to get refurbished. I was hoping to get the truck runnable for Home Depot trips & such while I wait for the OG injectors to get back.

However, I'm now getting a P1072 Bank 1 too rich. After my longest drive I also got a P0130 for O2 sensor bank 1/sensor 1 and P0133 slow response same sensor.

I went back in to check for leaks & found nothing. Pulled the injectors on bank 1, checked them, & reinstalled.

Cleaned MAF, replaced both upstream & downstream O2 sensors (they were original I believe)

Still running rich. Short fuel trim -20.3 and long is +/- 5 of that. MAF around 4.00 and both O2 sensors around .9-.99 range at idle.

I haven't detected any vacuum leaks but thinking next step is to do a smoke test.

Is there anything else I should try before the old injectors get back?

 

[heat]

Did you replace o2 sensors with Denso/OEM?

 

[kwheels]

Did you replace o2 sensors with Denso/OEM?

Denso yeah

 

[Bad Luck]

Denso yeah

Probably the crap injectors you put in while getting your original ones rebuilt. I bet the flow rates are either really high or one of them isn't sealing correctly.

 

[Bad Luck]

My pedal takes a while to actually pull on the throttle body cable I know I could just adjust the cable but this blue thing on my pedal looks like it’s missing a bushing or is sticking out too much . Anyone know a diy fix thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The rubber bushing is gone so either replace the cable or make a new bushing: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3693552-post33106.html

 

[kwheels]

Probably the crap injectors you put in while getting your original ones rebuilt. I bet the flow rates are either really high or one of them isn't sealing correctly.

My first thought. Just super weird because there's no gas smell on start up & when I pulled the plenums there was no evidence of leaks or anything.

Guess I'll find out in a week or two when I get the OG injectors back.

 

[jrm]

that was the problem. thx

 

[CoCoCo4Runner]

Back again with more questions.

Question 1:
Where does this lead? It’s coming out the back of the lower intake plenum on the driver side.

I’ve got a somewhat unique situation, 1999 engine went into a 1998 4runner, but due to circumstances I only had either the donor intake manifolds or a set of 1995 manifolds to use. I mixed and matched the best ones, one of the donor parts came damaged.

If it leads nowhere can I safely cap it? I’ve been chasing down vacuum leaks and this would probably be a big one.

PICS HERE
Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Question 2:
In my attempts to diagnose my fueling issues, I came to wonder if perhaps the injectors are doing too much injecting. The stock motor had the green/grey injectors, and the donor engine came with the brown ones. I assume they're both original so the brown injectors would have many thousands fewer miles on them, plus they're newer so I elected to run with them. I did some googling and other people on the forums said they're identical, but are they? If they have different flow rates I'd assume the 1998 ECU isn't smart enough to figure out the difference and is pumping out too much fuel, is that how it works?

Thanks! Pics are attached of the vacuum line in question and my current line routing. People on FB are saying its FPR related, but Isn't the FPR attached to the hard line on the upper intake manifold?

 

[3rdGenStan]

Grey/blue wire mod issue

So following all writeups and instructions on the grey/blue wire e-locker mod to a tee, what would cause the diff lock light to blink and not actuate like it’s supposed to? It’s a ‘98 limited if that helps. Also went through and cleaned everything under the dash with electronics cleaner, and the diff plug on the actual differential, I did notice what I think is the vacuum hose coming off the diff was snapped, unless it was something else.

 

[RunningSilver]

Hey guys, would anyone have the part number for the LBJ? seems to be out of stock or on back order at all the places I call. I just wanna make sure I’m looking up the correct one. Thanks in advance.

 

[octanejunkie]

Hey guys, would anyone have the part number for the LBJ? seems to be out of stock or on back order at all the places I call. I just wanna make sure I’m looking up the correct one. Thanks in advance.

You do realize that those part numbers are all over the internet and all over this forum with just a modicum of effort...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[montanapilled]

Hello, I have the CEL on and believe it to be an vacuum leak or bad cat. I have cleaned the TB, MAF, and bought a new ACL. I did perform a smoke test and did not find anything however I am bringing it in to get another look. Any ideas on what it could possibly be? The engine idles at 1.2k even when warmed up.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Devbot]

You do realize that those part numbers are all over the internet and all over this forum with just a modicum of effort...

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

The amount of spoonfeeding on this forum has been horrendous over the past few months :ranger:

 

[Arrakis]

Suspension advice

What else should I replace/ upgrade when swamping my suspension? I am looking at this kit (below) with a 3 in lift. I am already set on dropping my diff but I haven't spec'ed the parts


Camburg Toyota 4-Runner 2wd/4wd 96-04 Bilstein 6112 Performance Kit

 

[octanejunkie]

What else should I replace/ upgrade when swamping my suspension? I am looking at this kit (below) with a 3 in lift. I am already set on dropping my diff but I haven't spec'ed the parts





Camburg Toyota 4-Runner 2wd/4wd 96-04 Bilstein 6112 Performance Kit

Read this:
3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

I would freshen up all the suspension rubber and get new Toyota lower Ball joints on there before or when lifting, then go get an alignment.

Diff drops are pretty much useless...
More Harm Than Good? Toyota Diff Drop Truth vs Myth - YouTube

Now, the only question that matters is, why do you want a 3" lift?
If it's for wheeling, you might want to consider no more than 2"
4 Common Myths About IFS Lifts | Everything About Toyota IFS Part 2 - YouTube

Figure out what you are going to do with, and bolt onto, your truck before investing in upgrades. You won't regret it.


Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[octanejunkie]

Hello, I have the CEL on and believe it to be an vacuum leak or bad cat. I have cleaned the TB, MAF, and bought a new ACL. I did perform a smoke test and did not find anything however I am bringing it in to get another look. Any ideas on what it could possibly be? The engine idles at 1.2k even when warmed up.



Thanks in advance.

Get a code scanner and be sure what you are throwing money at before you throw more money at it
JM2C

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Bad Luck]

So following all writeups and instructions on the grey/blue wire e-locker mod to a tee, what would cause the diff lock light to blink and not actuate like it’s supposed to? It’s a ‘98 limited if that helps. Also went through and cleaned everything under the dash with electronics cleaner, and the diff plug on the actual differential, I did notice what I think is the vacuum hose coming off the diff was snapped, unless it was something else.

The rear diff lock actuator could be stuck/not working or it could be gummed up with old grease. Try doing a slow S pattern when you try to engage the rear locker.

 

[Bad Luck]

Hello, I have the CEL on and believe it to be an vacuum leak or bad cat. I have cleaned the TB, MAF, and bought a new ACL. I did perform a smoke test and did not find anything however I am bringing it in to get another look. Any ideas on what it could possibly be? The engine idles at 1.2k even when warmed up.

Thanks in advance.

What codes do you have?

 

[3rdGenStan]

Well now I have a bigger issue, now 4wd won’t disengage, I don’t know if it’s because it’s the push button 4wd and not a j-shift, I just don’t know.

The rear diff lock actuator could be stuck/not working or it could be gummed up with old grease. Try doing a slow S pattern when you try to engage the rear locker.