CrudRunner
New member
Replaced steering rack bushings with Energy units, front and rear sway bar bushings and links with Energy units.
Pic is of old gross stuff
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What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?
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Pic is of old gross stuff
cl4Rk
Member
Fixed the play in my gas pedal.
The little rubber bushing at the pedal-end of the throttle cable was hanging on by a thread, resulting in almost a half-inch of play before the pedal would start pulling open the throttle.
I was actually surprised at how short the bushing was because while driving, it FELT like 3 inches of pedal play. (EDIT: This makes sense: the pedal side of the lever is further away from the fulcrum than the cable-pulling side of the lever..)
I ripped off the old bushing, cut a length of rubber hose just little bit longer than the old bushing, cut the new hose lengthwise on one side to slide around the cable, and secured it with a zip tie.
No more play!
The little rubber bushing at the pedal-end of the throttle cable was hanging on by a thread, resulting in almost a half-inch of play before the pedal would start pulling open the throttle.
I was actually surprised at how short the bushing was because while driving, it FELT like 3 inches of pedal play. (EDIT: This makes sense: the pedal side of the lever is further away from the fulcrum than the cable-pulling side of the lever..)
I ripped off the old bushing, cut a length of rubber hose just little bit longer than the old bushing, cut the new hose lengthwise on one side to slide around the cable, and secured it with a zip tie.
No more play!
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I'm definitely stealing this repair from you! Good idea!
cl4Rk
Member
I stole it from [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] : https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2936430-post153.html
JZiggy
Senior Member
I stole it from [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] : https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2936430-post153.html
Nice! I kept my old cable with the busted rubber bushing to experiment on with this kind of repair on mind... kept thinking I could 3D print a solution but maybe @sleedydad can :bounce:
Had a broken bolt on the transmission pan causing fluid to leak pretty heavily. I was adding about a quart of ATF a day, about half in the morning on the way to work and about half before heading home. Over the weekend, took the truck to my friend's shop and got it on a lift. We got very lucky that the broken bolt came out without any issues so I was able to replace it. Grinded off the old FIPG, cleaned the magnets, added new FIPG and bolted it all back together. Magnets looked almost spotless.
It was probably time to do a drain and fill anyway so it all worked out in the end. Nothing flashy about maintenance, but then again nothing flashy about an undriveable truck rotting in a driveway.
It was probably time to do a drain and fill anyway so it all worked out in the end. Nothing flashy about maintenance, but then again nothing flashy about an undriveable truck rotting in a driveway.
RomanSchnobrich
Member
Grab yourself some 80-Series Land Cruiser coils. There's several threads on them, but I bet they'd give you the lift you're after. I have a similar rear bumper (swingout and a table) but probably a bit lighter, and my 7.5 wraps give me the perfect amount of lift (3.5"-4") in my book.
ViaPhoenix
New member
Thanks! I had forgotten about those options from my original research, but I remember feeling that sourcing the 7.5 wraps was going to be tough, since no one seemed to have a part number and I've never see an LC in the junk yards here in PHX.
I think I just found on a ih8mud thread -Link- that the 7.75 wraps are 48131-6A480 and the 7.5s are 48131-6A570. Can anyone confirm these are correct for the 7.5 wraps?
This thread has the right measurements for 7.5, but the dot colors are different Gr/Or/wh instead of or/or/wh and then 2purp/gy/wh instead of 2pk/gy/wh.
I have two 48131-6A570 sitting at home in a box and they are double purple/grey/white.
RomanSchnobrich
Member
Happy to help! I went through the same debacle. OME 861s are popular with these heavy bumpers but I didn't want a super high lift. Here's another helpful link. I actually posted a WTB on Mud and had some solid responses, almost bought a pair from someone for $40 but that was awhile ago. That's just another perk of going this route, if you can find them, they're nice and cheap.
LC coil spring Color codes
rapidpoison
Junior Member
Just received my 100k mile donor motor, its pretty clean but still thinking about refreshing topend gaskets, water pump, and timing belt
I bought it!
Now I'm making a list of everything else I want/need to spend money on, including a new paint job. She spent her whole life baking in the FLA sun and I guess the former owner decided a sh-tty respray was better than nothing.
So if anybody has recommendations for a top-notch paint shop in the metro-ATL area I'd love to hear them. I know it will be expensive but that's OK as long as the finished product looks showroom-good (or better).
Now I'm making a list of everything else I want/need to spend money on, including a new paint job. She spent her whole life baking in the FLA sun and I guess the former owner decided a sh-tty respray was better than nothing.
So if anybody has recommendations for a top-notch paint shop in the metro-ATL area I'd love to hear them. I know it will be expensive but that's OK as long as the finished product looks showroom-good (or better).
Brian.
Member
'Grats on the purchase.
European Collision Repair - European Collision Repair
Had those folks do some insurance work for me on a 3-month old car once, it was probably a 9/10 job (work was good, finish/cleanup left overspray that I ended up having to clean up, took twice as long as they initially quoted).
Don't skip on replacing the lower ball joints AND radiator if they haven't been done recently. No sense in a pretty paperweight if the front wheels fall off or you destroy the transmission.
ViaPhoenix
New member
I started with this link and like 14 tabs later i found myself on my link with the Toyo Part numbers. I will prolly put a WTB out there and see what i find, but good to know the part numbers in case nothing turns up.
Not sure why, but i always thought i need to get a driver/pass pair from LC80, but i am starting to put it together that i actually need a pair of pass or driver, right? I am pretty dense sometimes, ha
I think most people just use two of the same coil. Sonoran steel uses two of the same coil with some of their lifts: 1996-2002 - Classic System 1.2 [96-02_complete] - $1,575.15 : Sonoran Steel (no longer sell this kit, but they left it up as a reference for people to duplicate)
NotALakerFan
New member
has anyone color matched their side panels and bumpers to the car? Ive seen some do a black flat black but i'm interested in getting the limited to color match like the sport ed. in sunfire red pearl.
cl4Rk
Member
KH6 was a color code available in ‘02 that was Sunfire Red Pearl with Sunfire Red Pearl oversized fender flares and/or cladding (3K4+3K4).
I’ve seen this color combo in photos and I think at a junk yard listing on car-part.com . Not a very common color code I’d guess.
Photo Image Gallery & Touchup Paint: Toyota 4runner in Sunfirered Sunfirered (KH6)
You could try to source the cladding and flares for a swap. But yes, you can color match Sunfire Red Pearl. Might be hard to match well since the rest of the paint will be old and faded to a slightly different color and sheen, but you could get close I would think.
I know there’s at least a couple members here who color matched their flares and cladding to the body, but one was white on white and I think the other was black on black.
EDIT: FWIW, I was recently told by a body shop that Sunfire Red Pearl would be more challenging to match than some of the other colors.
Another edit: Here’s a Tacoma that did a very good job color matching with bed liner. I’m not sure if that’s Sunfire Red Pearl or not (Toyota has had several dark red / burgundy colors over the years). I know it’s not exactly what you’re asking, but maybe it will be some inspiration for you.
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NotALakerFan
New member
That material I feel like makes it a bit easier to color match and not worry about the difference in paint color. I'm thinking finding one in a junk yard in that color would be even harder.
Do you think a legit paint shop would be able to get close and how much would that cost? The rest of the paint is really nice and shiny so I wouldn't be as worried about that.
cl4Rk
Member
You’d have to get some quotes from shops near you. Prices seem to vary a lot by region.
But yes, a good body shop can usually do a good color match of virtually anything.
Best of luck!
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