Storm01
Member
Sweet. Thinking about mounting it in the engine bay on the passenger side.
Thanks a bunch!
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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Sweet. Thinking about mounting it in the engine bay on the passenger side.
Thanks a bunch!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGQ3rP6yIbQ This is a clean mount to mount the ARB compressor on that side.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Out of stock at least until the end of the month, maybe longer
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Glen Gallo
New member
Brillo thanks for the help
So......
Just because ebay seller says it is oem its in a toyota box does NOT mean its the correct part.
My bad I should have observed the problem and made a better decision than oh its the right part. These guys would never deceive me.
Yeah Right
As I said been awhile about 20 years since I wrenched. My former self. Glad to meet you would not have gone forward.
Lesson learned, be a sceptic. Crap its in my DNA. Somewhere in the universe my father is laughing. I always knew you were a dumbshit.
Thanks Dad not your fault. Its on me
So Ronnie is back in Heaven or Hell but no longer preaching to me from the front end of my motor.
Thanks for your help more details to come.
New ECM - Doesn't Start
Hello,
I have a 2001 SR5 and I replaced the ECM to try to resolve an ABS/VSC problem. I got a refurbished and programed ECM from Flagship One. Installed without a problem, but now it won't start. Starter engages but there seems to be no spark to make it turn over. I thought this might happen, so I was prepared to reset the immobilizer using the OBDII port, but it isn't responding to that technique like I expected. With the jumper in place on pins 4 and 13, turning the key doesn't make all of the lights on the dash blink to indicate it is programming.
Any one run into this before?
Hello,
I have a 2001 SR5 and I replaced the ECM to try to resolve an ABS/VSC problem. I got a refurbished and programed ECM from Flagship One. Installed without a problem, but now it won't start. Starter engages but there seems to be no spark to make it turn over. I thought this might happen, so I was prepared to reset the immobilizer using the OBDII port, but it isn't responding to that technique like I expected. With the jumper in place on pins 4 and 13, turning the key doesn't make all of the lights on the dash blink to indicate it is programming.
Any one run into this before?
henrytmoc
New member
Hi All,
I have a question about the ECT on a 2000 Limited 4x4 with Rear Locker.
I daily this and keep the ECT on since I live up in the hills. Recently, My ECT seems to have stopped working. I can confirm that it's not the bulb or the switch.
Occasionally the ECT would start working again as the light re-illuminates on the cluster, but as soon as I press the ECT switch to disengage and re-engage, it will stop working. Seems to be intermittent and comes back when it feels like it.
I have tried a new switch to no avail. Is there a fuse for the ECT in the fuse box under the dash or engine bay? Could the wiring to the transmission be faulty? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
I have a question about the ECT on a 2000 Limited 4x4 with Rear Locker.
I daily this and keep the ECT on since I live up in the hills. Recently, My ECT seems to have stopped working. I can confirm that it's not the bulb or the switch.
Occasionally the ECT would start working again as the light re-illuminates on the cluster, but as soon as I press the ECT switch to disengage and re-engage, it will stop working. Seems to be intermittent and comes back when it feels like it.
I have tried a new switch to no avail. Is there a fuse for the ECT in the fuse box under the dash or engine bay? Could the wiring to the transmission be faulty? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.
907_4runner
New member
Calling all fender flare enthusiasts,
I own a 2001 Limited, but much prefer the look of the Sport style flares without the door-cladding. Is this an easy swap besides spot welding the holes in the door?
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I own a 2001 Limited, but much prefer the look of the Sport style flares without the door-cladding. Is this an easy swap besides spot welding the holes in the door?
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I've done half this swap as I used to sell the Limited flares when I parted out 4Runners. There's more to consider than just the holes. The upper part of the door panel has seen sunshine for 20+ years but the part under the flares has not. Depending on your paint color, there's going to be a definitive 'before/after' line on the door where the flares ended and the painted metal began. Colors like black or green are not as big of a difference as are colors like desert dune or silver.
The holes for the clips are relatively large, not like a single screw hole. You'd have to spot weld a little plate over each hole - and there is a lot of them. The position of the holes for the fender flares also do not match between the Limited and SR5 flares so you'd have to drill some new holes. If you are catching on that I am trying to dissuade you from doing it, then you would be correct.
Storm01
Member
Unfortunate Update:
Had some financial and family circumstances come up that will not allow me to snag a new ECGS diff; guess I’m back on the hunt for a used diff.
I have found a 3rd member locally with 4:10 gears and 165K miles for $200. To me, this seems like an acceptable amount of miles.
What are the big things I should look for other than pinion play and chipped teeth? Shouldn’t there be an acceptable amount of rotational play at the face of the diff where it bolts to the driveshaft? Thanks a bunch.
That's a good price. Besides the obvious physical damage look for discoloring around the bearing areas. That's a sign the bearings got too hot. The rotational play you are talking about is called backlash and it's measured with a dial indicator on the ring gear, but if you're going by feel it's normal (and required) to have some rotational play (backlash) when turning the pinion flange back and forth by hand.
gomezdanny6921
New member
Aligment issue!!
After installing a Bilstien 5100 with ome 883 coils (3” lift) and also upgrading to freedom off-road ucas my alignment couldn’t be aligned properly I get tread wear on the outer tire Firestone said they didn’t know why the couldn’t align it cams were maxed to negative[emoji2955] . Any ideas?
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After installing a Bilstien 5100 with ome 883 coils (3” lift) and also upgrading to freedom off-road ucas my alignment couldn’t be aligned properly I get tread wear on the outer tire Firestone said they didn’t know why the couldn’t align it cams were maxed to negative[emoji2955] . Any ideas?
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Post pictures of your eccentrics please. Also, what’s your hub to fender measurement?Aligment issue!!
After installing a Bilstien 5100 with ome 883 coils (3” lift) and also upgrading to freedom off-road ucas my alignment couldn’t be aligned properly I get tread wear on the outer tire Firestone said they didn’t know why the couldn’t align it cams were maxed to negative[emoji2955] . Any ideas?
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Storm01
Member
Good to know about the price. Thought it seemed reasonable. It also comes with the front diff which I'll probably sell and re-seal.
Also good to know that the differential work I do on heavy duty applications (semi axles) also applies for the 8" on the Toyota. I would think if it had a bad pinion bearing I would be able to feel it without the driveshaft connected?
I'll report back on what the outcome is.
Storm01
Member
Diff bought
Snagged the 3rd member today, everything looks great. Guy was nice enough to include the front diff with no extra charge even though I do not need it.
So after my quick vacation I will get to swapping the diff out and figure out what I’m going to do with the old one, lol.
One last question; when my most recent diff was put in (the rebuilt one), the axle seals were replaced due them being the cause of the diff failure. Would I have to replace the seals again if I pull the axles out?
Are they a one time use? Will they be damaged if I pull the axles out? Or can I just pop the axles out enough to pull the diff out and not replace the seals? Thanks.
Snagged the 3rd member today, everything looks great. Guy was nice enough to include the front diff with no extra charge even though I do not need it.
So after my quick vacation I will get to swapping the diff out and figure out what I’m going to do with the old one, lol.
One last question; when my most recent diff was put in (the rebuilt one), the axle seals were replaced due them being the cause of the diff failure. Would I have to replace the seals again if I pull the axles out?
Are they a one time use? Will they be damaged if I pull the axles out? Or can I just pop the axles out enough to pull the diff out and not replace the seals? Thanks.
JoeT4R
Senior Member
You don't have to replace the seals if you pull the axles out. Did you replace with OEM seals before? If so, I wouldn't worry about it. Plenty of people replace their axles without doing the seals too. After my recent CV axle replacement I decided to have my seals done at the same time since they were the originals. Over 300K miles were on them and they weren't leaking but I wanted to do them anyways just as a preventative measure.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Seals get damaged when going back in with axles. Partially pulling axles will have weight of axle on seal I don't suggest doing that.
Storm01
Member
To be completely honest, I have no idea if they’re OEM or not. I’m assuming they’re aftermarket seals. Seems like it’s better to just be on the safe side and knock some new ones in. OEM seals and O-rings won’t set me back that much it looks like.
Appreciate your input
JoeT4R
Senior Member
90311-47013, 90311-47027 are the OEM seal p/n's. I've got an 01 so this is what I've got.
I❤️4runners
New member
I don't know if there is a fuse for the ECT or not. I would recommend replacing the ECT switch but sounds like you've already done that. Can you tell if the ECT is engaged when the dash indicator light is out? In that case its probably the ECT dash light bulb. Other than that it could potentially be faulty wiring in the transmission. Because it only happens intermittently, I wouldn't think its a fuse problem but I've been wrong plenty of times before. Hope you can get it figured out!
I went to remove the actuator on the ignition housing that keeps your key in the cylinder when the key is turned today, but the ignition housing looks very different from what everyone is showing on here. The little box that people are removing isn't present for me. There's a similar looking little box on the top of the ignition housing near the keyhole, but removing it didn't allow me to remove the key while the engine is running. 2000 SR5/v6/manual/4wd. Has anyone done this mod on a newer ignition housing style?
Here's the thread I referenced: Key stuck in ignition fix
Here's the thread I referenced: Key stuck in ignition fix
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