The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[spartacus]

I’ll try and leave this brief

I have a 2000 T4R hassling me with a crank no start. Motor is a 5VZ. Backstory is I noticed a leak coming from my water pump and decided to do a timing belt change while I was in there (I’m at 197k so it’s about due anyways).

I get done with timing belt and after everything is bolted back together, crank no start. For just a second it really sounded like it wanted to. This T4R ran great before doing this job, no issues.

I initially believed maybe I messed up the timing and pulled the dust cover. After several manual rotations everything still lined up to TDC. No missing teeth on crank gear. I read approx 190-210 RPM on OBDII when cranking.

I didn’t unplug much in the sense of connections while doing the job, and all plugs and vacuum hoses are connected. All grounds appear to be grounded with no corrosion.

No blown fuses, all relays seem to be in working order (COR and EFI relay good).

I pulled plug boots off on driver side and had weak spark from all 3. Initially I changed just the plugs (NGK 3967), still weak spark. I changed the wires (NGK 4412) and now I have no spark. Even tried putting the factory wires back on and still no spark. Fuses still check out.

Ignition packs are receiving ~12.25V with key to ON position.

I am getting fuel to the cylinders as one time I forgot to pull the EFI fuse while checking spark and plugs came out smelling of gas. I’ve also tried using starter fluid to get it to start, no luck.

Compression is low amongst cylinders but not much difference between the 6. Compression test was done with a cold engine.

Ignition packs OHM out within spec. Spark plug wires OHM out to spec from what I can find on the forums (both old OEM and new NGK)

Of course Now I am leaning towards possibly a bad ICM or even the ECM. But I want to pick y’all’s mind and maybe I’ve missed or ignored something up to this point. Any ideas? Don’t want to dive too deep if it’s in fact something simple I’ve overlooked

Thanks for any suggestions

Crank sensor hooked up?

 

[BartT4R]

Crank sensor hooked up?

Yep crank sensor hooked up, I’ve about ran thru every schematic for wiring and vacuum and everything checks out

This might be a long shot, but did you get the order of the plug wires correct?

Plug wires hooked up correct yessir

Does your instrument cluster rpm gauge move when cranking?

No movement on tach, only can read RPM via OBDii scan

 

[Bad Luck]

Yep crank sensor hooked up, I’ve about ran thru every schematic for wiring and vacuum and everything checks out



Plug wires hooked up correct yessir



No movement on tach, only can read RPM via OBDii scan

If the instrument cluster gauge isn't moving I would suspect a bad crank sensor, but it's odd that you are seeing rpm's with a scan tool. I would still ohm out the cam and crank sensors to be sure.

 

[spartacus]

Yep crank sensor hooked up, I’ve about ran thru every schematic for wiring and vacuum and everything checks out



Plug wires hooked up correct yessir



No movement on tach, only can read RPM via OBDii scan

Coolant line going to the throttle body are hooked up correctly?

 

[BartT4R]

If the instrument cluster gauge isn't moving I would suspect a bad crank sensor, but it's odd that you are seeing rpm's with a scan tool. I would still ohm out the cam and crank sensors to be sure.

I thought it was odd too, I have ohmed out Cam sensor and all good. Will have to get the crank sensor tomorrow as it decided to start pouring rain on me today

Coolant line going to the throttle body are hooked up correctly?

Went to double check and all looks good on the throttle body

 

[Trent4r]

Hey everyone, going to do the preventative radiator replacement and I know I'll lose a little tranny fluid. Is it ok to top off with some lucas heavy duty oil stabalizer until I do a full drain and fill on the tranny oil? Everything I've seen so far says its cool but wondering if any of ya'll have tried it before.

Thanks

 

[Bad Luck]

Hey everyone, going to do the preventative radiator replacement and I know I'll lose a little tranny fluid. Is it ok to top off with some lucas heavy duty oil stabalizer until I do a full drain and fill on the tranny oil? Everything I've seen so far says its cool but wondering if any of ya'll have tried it before.

Thanks

Clamp off the two rubber hoses going from the transmission to radiator and I doubt you will lose enough fluid to need to add any. If you do need to add some Lucas would be fine, but I'd jut buy a quart of Dexron III compatible transmission fluid.

 

[Trent4r]

Clamp off the two rubber hoses going from the transmission to radiator and I doubt you will lose enough fluid to need to add any. If you do need to add some Lucas would be fine, but I'd jut buy a quart of Dexron III compatible transmission fluid.

Great will do thanks!

 

[BartT4R]

If the instrument cluster gauge isn't moving I would suspect a bad crank sensor, but it's odd that you are seeing rpm's with a scan tool. I would still ohm out the cam and crank sensors to be sure.

Was able to get out today and ohm them. Both “cold” readings of course.

Cam Pos Sensor I’m getting 1,104 Ω

Crank Pos Sensor I’m getting 2,087 Ω


Not sure what had happened earlier but I am back to getting a weak spark, no longer no spark, which I suppose is a good thing

 

[I❤️4runners]

How are you at fabricating? There was one guy that made a kit, but he’s not making them anymore. Apart from that there’s a few different options that people have custom fabbed. Try looking through some of these options by putting this in google: site:toyota-4Runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/ rear disc brakes

I can typically fabricate what I want...after a fashion. lol. Now that I know there is no kit available I can start looking at making my own thing. I have a buddy who owns a machine shop so I might be calling him...
I guess what I really need is a template for the brackets. Would anyone have an idea of how I could get my hands on something like that? Or am I just going to have to take everything apart and start eyeballing it for dimensions and a bracket shape? Thanks.

 

[Bad Luck]

I can typically fabricate what I want...after a fashion. lol. Now that I know there is no kit available I can start looking at making my own thing. I have a buddy who owns a machine shop so I might be calling him...
I guess what I really need is a template for the brackets. Would anyone have an idea of how I could get my hands on something like that? Or am I just going to have to take everything apart and start eyeballing it for dimensions and a bracket shape? Thanks.

Did you look through the google results? That should help you out.

 

[JoeT4R]

Hey everyone,

So I found a used bumper online that is in much better condition than the one currently on my truck. I have a 99 limited with the large fender flares and was wondering how easy (or hard) it is to get the current flares that attach to the rear bumper off. Unfortunately this used bumper doesn’t come with the flare extensions but it has holes to mount them. It is as simple as using a ratchet or are they secured to the bumper with rivets? Any chance anyone has a write up on how to remove them to put on the bumper I’m picking up? If it matters at all, it looks like the flare extensions and the mud flap is all one piece.

Thanks!

Those sound like the SR5 flares. I don't know for certain, but I don't think the limited flares would be able to mount up. I would need to see pictures of the mounting holes. What you could do is use the search function here on T4R and peruse the site for writeups or check Google.

I'll let [MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] chime in on this one.

 

[Daniel Lowe]

1998 Toy 4 Runner Limited

If I have posted this in the wrong place please forgive me... I'm new and it would not let me start a new thread...

I thought I knew these 4 runners inside and out... but today, sitting in a parking lot while runner I heard what I thought was my rear windshield wiper but it was off... then it happened again... and again about a minute or two apart... we struggled a bit to try to figure out what it was and then I thought it quit... so I headed home... after about 5 miles that same sound but loader and suddenly an extreme loss of power... pressing the gas pedal just made it worse so as to avoid any more problems I shut off the key and coasted into a parking lot... I got out and found that radiator fluid had apparently escaped all at once dripping from under the motor between the two wheels... The radiator temperature was not hot, oil checked and all was well, I even checked the trans fluid... what I think happened is a rear heater hose sprung a leak and when pressure built up it would shoot out hitting the bottom of the chassis (Noise heard...) then I think the hose burst which is the loader sound I hear just before loss of power which followed immediately after the last loader sound... but how does that stop the engine from running? I tried starting it after we coasted to a stop and it will not start... I have never experienced anything like this... what happened? Is there a limp mode sensor for low radiator fluid? I am stumped... any help please...

Daniel

 

[octanejunkie]

1998 Toy 4 Runner Limited



If I have posted this in the wrong place please forgive me... I'm new and it would not let me start a new thread...



I thought I knew these 4 runners inside and out... but today, sitting in a parking lot while runner I heard what I thought was my rear windshield wiper but it was off... then it happened again... and again about a minute or two apart... we struggled a bit to try to figure out what it was and then I thought it quit... so I headed home... after about 5 miles that same sound but loader and suddenly an extreme loss of power... pressing the gas pedal just made it worse so as to avoid any more problems I shut off the key and coasted into a parking lot... I got out and found that radiator fluid had apparently escaped all at once dripping from under the motor between the two wheels... The radiator temperature was not hot, oil checked and all was well, I even checked the trans fluid... what I think happened is a rear heater hose sprung a leak and when pressure built up it would shoot out hitting the bottom of the chassis (Noise heard...) then I think the hose burst which is the loader sound I hear just before loss of power which followed immediately after the last loader sound... but how does that stop the engine from running? I tried starting it after we coasted to a stop and it will not start... I have never experienced anything like this... what happened? Is there a limp mode sensor for low radiator fluid? I am stumped... any help please...



Daniel

Check your radiator/coolant level. I suspect bad news

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

 

[Daniel Lowe]

I did, its low and all over the ground

 

[Bad Luck]

1998 Toy 4 Runner Limited

If I have posted this in the wrong place please forgive me... I'm new and it would not let me start a new thread...

I thought I knew these 4 runners inside and out... but today, sitting in a parking lot while runner I heard what I thought was my rear windshield wiper but it was off... then it happened again... and again about a minute or two apart... we struggled a bit to try to figure out what it was and then I thought it quit... so I headed home... after about 5 miles that same sound but loader and suddenly an extreme loss of power... pressing the gas pedal just made it worse so as to avoid any more problems I shut off the key and coasted into a parking lot... I got out and found that radiator fluid had apparently escaped all at once dripping from under the motor between the two wheels... The radiator temperature was not hot, oil checked and all was well, I even checked the trans fluid... what I think happened is a rear heater hose sprung a leak and when pressure built up it would shoot out hitting the bottom of the chassis (Noise heard...) then I think the hose burst which is the loader sound I hear just before loss of power which followed immediately after the last loader sound... but how does that stop the engine from running? I tried starting it after we coasted to a stop and it will not start... I have never experienced anything like this... what happened? Is there a limp mode sensor for low radiator fluid? I am stumped... any help please...

Daniel

the engine coolant temp sensor has to be submerged in coolant to read temperature correctly. If you don't have any/enough coolant in the system then the temperature won't read accurately. In other words, you can over heat the engine without the temperature gauge ever changing or showing that.

 

[Bad Luck]

Those sound like the SR5 flares. I don't know for certain, but I don't think the limited flares would be able to mount up. I would need to see pictures of the mounting holes. What you could do is use the search function here on T4R and peruse the site for writeups or check Google.

I'll let [MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] chime in on this one.

Way to put me on the spot like that lol I don't have a clue and would really need a photo to tell. I would ASSume that they just bolt on but I've never done it.

 

[JoeT4R]

Way to put me on the spot like that lol I don't have a clue and would really need a photo to tell. I would ASSume that they just bolt on but I've never done it.

Well you know what they say about ASSupmtions :rofl:

 

[Spiker Engineering]

I'm going to replace my original fuel injectors with the Osidetiger injectors. I noticed that the Osidetiger injectors don't have the o-ring at the bottom that the original ones had. Osidetiger assured me that their injectors don't need that lower o-ring, and I don't have a reason not to believe them.

But I'm just curious, what does that lower o-ring do on the original system that is no longer needed for the Osidetiger?

 

[Bad Luck]

I'm going to replace my original fuel injectors with the Osidetiger injectors. I noticed that the Osidetiger injectors don't have the o-ring at the bottom that the original ones had. Osidetiger assured me that their injectors don't need that lower o-ring, and I don't have a reason not to believe them.

But I'm just curious, what does that lower o-ring do on the original system that is no longer needed for the Osidetiger?

I always thought the lower seal was to prevent vacuum leaks where the injector meets the intake manifold. (It's been so long I can't remember if they seal to the head or the intake manifold. Either way a poor seal at the injector there can be a source of vacuum leak.)