The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

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Need the part name please!

Hello!

I have a 1997 Toyota Hilux Surf (it's a 4runner with a funny name) RHD for work (I deliver mail). While delivering last night I lost the entire wiper blade and the triangle mounting unit. The arm is there, but nothing else. What is the name of the triangle part and what screws do I need to replace it? I have replacement wiper blades of course just not the part that attaches it to the arm.

I believe I attached an image of the part I need. This is my first time (and probably not last) posting here so please forgive me if I didn't.

Thank you all in advance!
 

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I❤️4runners;3822102 said:
Hey guys, I need some advice. I'm pretty sure the body mount bushings, particularly the two rear ones, have worn out on my 3rd gen. I can hear them clank and rattle a bit when I go over bumps or go down a gravel road. There the only things that could be making the noise because I've gone over the underside of the truck with a fine tooth comb to make sure that everything's tight and there's nothing else causing a rattle. My question: is it OK to drive with worn body mount bushings for a little while? It's been making the noise for about a month now and other than it being a tiny bit more floaty in the corners and the ride quality being a little worse, I haven't noticed any big issues. I don't really have the time to replace the bushings now and I'm just wondering if it's OK to let it ride until the new year. I'd appreciate some thoughts on this. Thanks guys!

You'll be fine driving around on worn body mount bushings for awhile
 
I need help! For a while now I've been wanting to get a key fob working with my 3rd gen. When I bought the car it didn't work and I never thought to ask the owner what happened to it.

Well I finally decided to get operational again but I ran into a problem. The ECU that controls the cars security system is gone. Literally. The little magic black box that everyone talks about that's supposed to be under the drivers seat on a 1996 Toyota 4Runner is simply not there on my truck. The weird thing is, the little black platform/bracket that the RS3000 ECU sits on, is bolted to the floor under the drivers seat but there are no plugs or wires that could be plugged into a new ECU. I can get some pictures if you guys need some. I'm just super confused. I would think that there would be some wires under there or something but it's just carpet all over. The fact that there's a platform for the ECU to sit on makes me think that there was one there at one time but what the hell happened to it?! Is there a possibility I'm looking in the wrong spot? Are there wires somewhere that I don't know about? Help and thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
@I❤️4runners it a treasure hunt. Wires that go to RS come from under carpet, ends maybe
stuffed under carpet feel for them pull seat n look. Never know how PO's do chit.
 
I❤️4runners;3822703 said:
I need help! For a while now I've been wanting to get a key fob working with my 3rd gen. When I bought the car it didn't work and I never thought to ask the owner what happened to it.

Well I finally decided to get operational again but I ran into a problem. The ECU that controls the cars security system is gone. Literally. The little magic black box that everyone talks about that's supposed to be under the drivers seat on a 1996 Toyota 4Runner is simply not there on my truck. The weird thing is, the little black platform/bracket that the RS3000 ECU sits on, is bolted to the floor under the drivers seat but there are no plugs or wires that could be plugged into a new ECU. I can get some pictures if you guys need some. I'm just super confused. I would think that there would be some wires under there or something but it's just carpet all over. The fact that there's a platform for the ECU to sit on makes me think that there was one there at one time but what the hell happened to it?! Is there a possibility I'm looking in the wrong spot? Are there wires somewhere that I don't know about? Help and thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks guys.

I pulled the whole system out of a junkyard 97 to add to my 96 which never had one. You'll want the rs3000 out of the 96/97 that's supposed to be on the bracket you have. Maybe it'd gone crazy so the po removed it before they went crazy? The ecu has 3 connectors, 2 are not terribly small, it would be pretty obvious if they were there. I have pics of the whole process of installing one, including the ecu of which you speak. I didn't think it very hard to uninstall the system (out of the 97)- or install one (into the 96).

Hope this helps...
Starts post 3861
habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread - Page 194 - YotaTech Forums
 
O2 sensors

What’s up guys, I’m curious if anyone has ever put a non cali emissions downstream o2 sensor on an exhaust with cali emissions and what you guys think are the issues it may cause.

I purchased the wrong one yesterday and installed it not knowing my system had 2 cats. I’ve already ordered the correct one and will fix it today but it still has me wondering what the effects would be since everything plugged in the same. Thanks guys.
 
I❤️4runners;3822102 said:
. My question: is it OK to drive with worn body mount bushings for a little while?

Other than the issues you are experiencing, and possibly the frame getting too close to the floor if the mount somehow disintegrates, you can wait it out a bit. Hard lines, etc can be affected.

I'm about to do mine as someone hacked the job in the past it seems. Looks liek a typical one side at a time type mount redo, although Toyo mounts are like 3X more than 60's muscle car mounts. This does not please me. And DONT cheap out on mounts.
 
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Complete T4R newbie... 1999 SR5 auto - I put it into 4 Low and i'm pretty sure it engages fine. Definitely stopped slipping on the snow when I did, but no lights on the dash came on. Then one time randomly I see what I assume is the rear diff lock light on. Is it faulty/intermittent or am I missing something?

Thanks!
 
Well, thing is, you should KNOW when you're in 4WDLow. You need to stop completely, and move the 4WD shift lever to a specific position. All the way down, to the right, then all the way forward.
Once that's done, first off, you should see the 4WD indicator light, a green, sort of H shape, but turned on it's side. Your gearing is then much different. It should require twice the RPM to achieve the same speed forward, or back. IE: If normally, it requires 3000 RPM to go 20 MPH in 1st gear, it will now require 2nd, or even 3rd gear to go 20 MPH.

As for the rear locker, you have to be stopped, in 4WDLow, and the Locker button depressed. You should see the 4WD indicator light ON. Then you have to keep your speed below 10 MPH, IIRC, to keep the Locker engaged. Actually, not a problem in 4WDLow. Turning, however, is a whole new adventure. With the rear differential locked, you shouldn't be able to turn, without one of the rear wheels, the outer one in the turn, skidding. You really shouldn't try. It's hard on the rear, drive line parts.

Does all my rambling help any?
Pat☺
 
Does anyone have experience good or bad with autozone/duralast lower ball joints? Yesterday when replacing my cv Axels I noticed the ball joint was torn so I went ahead and bought what was quick and close. It wouldn’t have been my first choice but it worked in a pinch. Thanks guys.
 
Does anyone have experience good or bad with autozone/duralast lower ball joints? Yesterday when replacing my cv Axels I noticed the ball joint was torn so I went ahead and bought what was quick and close. It wouldn’t have been my first choice but it worked in a pinch. Thanks guys.

I'd use it till you can get an OEM one but that's about it. I had to do that a couple months ago while I waited for a new uniball to rebuild my passenger LBJ. It worked but I certainly wasn't gonna go around thrashing it, nor trust it for any length of time.
 
I'd use it till you can get an OEM one but that's about it. I had to do that a couple months ago while I waited for a new uniball to rebuild my passenger LBJ. It worked but I certainly wasn't gonna go around thrashing it, nor trust it for any length of time.

Alright good to know. I planned on doing the outer tie rods soon so I’ll just replace them with OEM ones at that time. Thanks!
 
Well, thing is, you should KNOW when you're in 4WDLow. You need to stop completely, and move the 4WD shift lever to a specific position. All the way down, to the right, then all the way forward.
Once that's done, first off, you should see the 4WD indicator light, a green, sort of H shape, but turned on it's side. Your gearing is then much different. It should require twice the RPM to achieve the same speed forward, or back. IE: If normally, it requires 3000 RPM to go 20 MPH in 1st gear, it will now require 2nd, or even 3rd gear to go 20 MPH.

As for the rear locker, you have to be stopped, in 4WDLow, and the Locker button depressed. You should see the 4WD indicator light ON. Then you have to keep your speed below 10 MPH, IIRC, to keep the Locker engaged. Actually, not a problem in 4WDLow. Turning, however, is a whole new adventure. With the rear differential locked, you shouldn't be able to turn, without one of the rear wheels, the outer one in the turn, skidding. You really shouldn't try. It's hard on the rear, drive line parts.

Does all my rambling help any?
Pat☺


well if you do the blue/gray wire mod you can use your locker in 2wd,4wd high and 4 wheel low. And I have used mine in all those.

with mine I do come to a stop to engage most times.....or just rolling slow...and it wont kick in until you do start rolling when the gears and stars align
 
Other than the issues you are experiencing, and possibly the frame getting too close to the floor if the mount somehow disintegrates, you can wait it out a bit. Hard lines, etc can be affected.

I'm about to do mine as someone hacked the job in the past it seems. Looks liek a typical one side at a time type mount redo, although Toyo mounts are like 3X more than 60's muscle car mounts. This does not please me. And DONT cheap out on mounts.

OK, that's good to know. I actually took my truck down to the shop last week put it on the lift and did a thorough going over of each body mount. To my surprise the only ones that looked like they could use replacing were the two in the very rear of the truck. The bushings on the rest of the mounts still look OK. Apparently, after about an hour of searching, the source of the weird clanking noise was not worn body mounts but a loose bolt on the rear stabilizer bar. I guess I didn't crank it down tight enough last time I was working down there so I took the bolts out on both ends of the bar put Locktite on them and ran them back down. Weird clanking noise has disappeared.

I'm still planning on doing the job probably in the first quarter of next year and yes, I'm certainly not going to cheap out. I'm looking at getting the polyurethane bushing kit from Energy Suspension Parts. I've taken the consequences of cheaping out on my 3rd gen too many times to continue doing it in the future.

Attention Required! | Cloudflare
 
I pulled the whole system out of a junkyard 97 to add to my 96 which never had one. You'll want the rs3000 out of the 96/97 that's supposed to be on the bracket you have. Maybe it'd gone crazy so the po removed it before they went crazy? The ecu has 3 connectors, 2 are not terribly small, it would be pretty obvious if they were there. I have pics of the whole process of installing one, including the ecu of which you speak. I didn't think it very hard to uninstall the system (out of the 97)- or install one (into the 96).

Hope this helps...
Starts post 3861
habanero's 1996 4Runner Build-Up Thread - Page 194 - YotaTech Forums

Well I found the control module...just not the one I was looking for. I managed to get in touch with the po who said that he had indeed taken out the factory alarm system because it was going off randomly and driving him crazy, a problem I've heard these systems are prone to. He said that he'd had a new alarm system installed but had no idea where the installers had put the aftermarket module. I therefore set aside an entire Saturday dedicated to tracing wires. Since I didn't really know where to start, I took a gamble...and got lucky. I took apart the entire console and started tracing the two wires that run into the alarm system light indicator right below the rear window control button which is next to the e-brake.

I followed those two frickin wires for about 2 hours all behind the dash, most of which I took apart. Finally, they led me to a little black box behind the cabin fuse panel. I had looked all up behind the steering wheel and fuse panel very well before I began my wire chasing but the way the previous knuckleheads installed the aftermarket module, the only way you can see it, let alone get to it, is if you take off nearly every plastic panel on the dash and remove the fuse panel which Toyota apparently doesn't want you to do based on where they located the bolts that hold it in place. lol.

Anyway, I found the "magic black box" and after another couple hours of figuring out what system it was and how to program it I finally figured it out. In the tangled mess of wires coming out of the box, I found a little switch wired into the wiring harness that when switched on and off in a certain sequence made the horn chirp and lights flash. I figured out what fob worked with the system ordered it and it programed no problem! Very happy to get that fixed. GF is too because now I can get her door without having to unlock the drivers door with the key and unlock all the doors from inside. Thanks for your help guys! I love this forum more and more.
 
I have the ES bushing kit waiting to be put on with Sonoran Steel rears. If body mounts are in your future
I'd look into the SS mounts going with aftermarket bumper or not.

Swaybar links have the been the culprit more times than not and first thing I look at when a noise or pop
shows up front or rear.
 
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What’s up guys, I’m curious if anyone has ever put a non cali emissions downstream o2 sensor on an exhaust with cali emissions and what you guys think are the issues it may cause.

I purchased the wrong one yesterday and installed it not knowing my system had 2 cats. I’ve already ordered the correct one and will fix it today but it still has me wondering what the effects would be since everything plugged in the same. Thanks guys.

The only difference among the different down stream oxygen sensors I know of is the harness length. The connector and wiring pinout is the same as well as the sensor itself is the same.
 
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