96RedRunner
Senior Member
Bumpers first to the accident. From Rock for a Benjamin to your door I've done in the past. Hard to beat.
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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Bumpers first to the accident. From Rock for a Benjamin to your door I've done in the past. Hard to beat.
Yeah just hard to stomach the shipping atm. $150CAD for the bumper, $450 shipped.
Next question... I just installed a radiator hose heater cuz canada and -40 temperatures. Once I finished the installation, I read the instructions... And it said this type of heater is not compatible with all cooling systems.
Is there any reason this wouldnt work in the 3rd gen? I installed it in the vertical section of the lower rad hose.
Is there any reason this wouldnt work in the 3rd gen? I installed it in the vertical section of the lower rad hose.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Damn, proceed as you were I'll get back in the truck.
Aftermarket valve cover gaskets aren't as good of quality as OEM. He probably didn't replace the half moons and camshaft plug seals when he replaced the valve cover gasket either. You can try cleaning it off and tightening the valve cover gasket bolts some, but keep in mind the torque spec for those bolts is really low at only 52 Inch/lb (not ft/lb).
Johnnyboyyyy
New member
Replacing bearing on 2wd problems
Can someone help me understand something? I am trying to replace the bearings and hub on my 99' 2WD. My stearing knuckle/axle hub looks almost like its a hybrid between the 2WD and the 4WD versions. I dont have a grease cap covering the axle nut like the 4wd versions do, but the 4 bolts behind the axle hub that should be holding together the axle hub and steering knuckle are just holding on the backing plate. Im sort of confused what to do. I guess my only option is to take off the steering knuckle but how do I proceed after that. I cant seem to find any manual or video that has a knuckle/hub that looks like mine. Anyone have ideas?
See pics
https://imgur.com/a/8JYNhfO
Can someone help me understand something? I am trying to replace the bearings and hub on my 99' 2WD. My stearing knuckle/axle hub looks almost like its a hybrid between the 2WD and the 4WD versions. I dont have a grease cap covering the axle nut like the 4wd versions do, but the 4 bolts behind the axle hub that should be holding together the axle hub and steering knuckle are just holding on the backing plate. Im sort of confused what to do. I guess my only option is to take off the steering knuckle but how do I proceed after that. I cant seem to find any manual or video that has a knuckle/hub that looks like mine. Anyone have ideas?
See pics
https://imgur.com/a/8JYNhfO
gh25_
Member
rear window switch not working
Hey all.
So for a little bit now I have been having an intermittent faulty rear sliding window switch in my 1998. It is kinda weird haha. Sometimes it works fine and then other times I noticed when I press the switch it doesn't work at all. So for a while the switch was intermittent. But now it's completely stopped working. When I press the button inside it doesn't do anything. It's funny though because even though the switch inside doesn't work it still works perfectly fine when I use the key cylinder outside on the hatch to put it up or down. Would the right fix to be just find a replacement rear window switch on the inside? Or do you guys think it's the hatch wiring, one of the wires split from use of the hatch going up and down. I know that problems can occur from that
Thanks.
Hey all.
So for a little bit now I have been having an intermittent faulty rear sliding window switch in my 1998. It is kinda weird haha. Sometimes it works fine and then other times I noticed when I press the switch it doesn't work at all. So for a while the switch was intermittent. But now it's completely stopped working. When I press the button inside it doesn't do anything. It's funny though because even though the switch inside doesn't work it still works perfectly fine when I use the key cylinder outside on the hatch to put it up or down. Would the right fix to be just find a replacement rear window switch on the inside? Or do you guys think it's the hatch wiring, one of the wires split from use of the hatch going up and down. I know that problems can occur from that
Thanks.
Twisted Sid
Member
Can someone help me understand something? I am trying to replace the bearings and hub on my 99' 2WD. My stearing knuckle/axle hub looks almost like its a hybrid between the 2WD and the 4WD versions. I dont have a grease cap covering the axle nut like the 4wd versions do, but the 4 bolts behind the axle hub that should be holding together the axle hub and steering knuckle are just holding on the backing plate. Im sort of confused what to do. I guess my only option is to take off the steering knuckle but how do I proceed after that. I cant seem to find any manual or video that has a knuckle/hub that looks like mine. Anyone have ideas?
See pics
https://imgur.com/a/8JYNhfO
toyota 4runner/Tacoma front wheel bearing replacement - YouTube
You're going to need a few tools to get the hubs apart and you'll want new hub nuts. A hydraulic press is WAY easier than the one used in that video but both will work.
Johnnyboyyyy
New member
Your'e a life saver! Exactly what i was looking for. Thanks.
U can't buy airbags from junkyards in the USA, it is against federal law for them to sell said, u'd have to get it from a private party.
Aloha,
I just replaced the rack and pinion, power steering pump and lines, tire rods, upper and lower ball joints, hubs and bearings on the fronton my 98 4wd . When I was finished, everything was nice and tight, so I aligned the best I could and test drove it maybe a half mile. When I got back, my driver bearing seemed to have failed and the hub had play in all directions. Assumed faulty bearing, so replaced with higher quality bearing, and SAME THING, all tight when I was done, but a 2 minute test drive left my driver wheel with a lot of play. Is there something that can kill the bearings that fast? Should I try replacing the entire knuckle? Can’t find anything about this anywhere.
Thanks
I just replaced the rack and pinion, power steering pump and lines, tire rods, upper and lower ball joints, hubs and bearings on the fronton my 98 4wd . When I was finished, everything was nice and tight, so I aligned the best I could and test drove it maybe a half mile. When I got back, my driver bearing seemed to have failed and the hub had play in all directions. Assumed faulty bearing, so replaced with higher quality bearing, and SAME THING, all tight when I was done, but a 2 minute test drive left my driver wheel with a lot of play. Is there something that can kill the bearings that fast? Should I try replacing the entire knuckle? Can’t find anything about this anywhere.
Thanks
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habanero
Senior Member
Can't imagine and not saying I'd do it, or why they're selling them now, but LKQ started selling them fairly recently- at least in my area.
IIRC they started advertising that in the last year or so. I know they didn't allow it before that, and don't know why they changed.
my valve cover gaskets (done by prev owner) went bad even faster than that
. I agree with the other user that they prob used a cheap gasket and didn't replace the half-moons or cam capsSteering wheel off
My steering wheel is at 11 o'clock instead of 12 on an otherwise good alignment. Can an alignment fix that or do I need to pull the rack to adjust the spline?
This happened b/c I pulled my steering rack and got a Firestone Lifetime alignment after. My guess is that I missed my match mark on the shaft by 1 tooth during installation so it's probable that I did not re-install the rack centered. Still, I would think they would have been able to fix this. Firestone already tried twice. :barf:
1st time wheel was off, so I got a 2nd appointment. I came in not even 100mi later specifically asking them to fix the wheel. They said they'd just "redo the alignment" and sure enough they gave me a before/after sheet saying some of my measurements were wrong coming in. Seems like either shitty techs or a missleading alignment sheet.
Pulling the rack was a pain
My steering wheel is at 11 o'clock instead of 12 on an otherwise good alignment. Can an alignment fix that or do I need to pull the rack to adjust the spline?
This happened b/c I pulled my steering rack and got a Firestone Lifetime alignment after. My guess is that I missed my match mark on the shaft by 1 tooth during installation so it's probable that I did not re-install the rack centered. Still, I would think they would have been able to fix this. Firestone already tried twice. :barf:
1st time wheel was off, so I got a 2nd appointment. I came in not even 100mi later specifically asking them to fix the wheel. They said they'd just "redo the alignment" and sure enough they gave me a before/after sheet saying some of my measurements were wrong coming in. Seems like either shitty techs or a missleading alignment sheet.
Pulling the rack was a pain
Devbot
New member
You shouldn't need to pull the entire rack or hardly do anything at all to re-clock the rag joint. You could also pull the steering wheel and clock it around. Assuming you're at stock ride height that is; once you start lifting and running larger tires/wheels, you rapidly give up that luxury and will most likely live with a slightly crooked wheel indefinitely. I don't think my wheel has been perfectly straight in 4 years now. I would attempt the solution you suspect might fix it before slandering or forming a negative opinion about others when that very well could be what's stopping them.
It should also be stated they're never going to force the alignment out of spec just to set your steering wheel straight if they're unable to do so with everything in the green. That is an extreme liability. If they're purely a tire shop and not a general mechanic as well, I wouldn't expect them to do anything but turn adjusters.
I would also ask, how much information are you detailing to them? Did you inform them that the rag joint might be off a tooth or leave them to figure it out? Next to lube techs, alignment techs are usually the greenest of greenhorns and telling them "fix it" with no extra info isn't going to get you very far. And remember most charge an average of $150-200/hour for diagnosis and repair. Call me crazy but I have a feeling you don't want them poking around aimlessly and taking their merry time at those prices, especially when it can be attempted at home in under an hour :shrug:
Mine is lifted 2in but had a perfectly straight wheel until I pulled the rack to do the lower control arm bushings and outer tie rods. With that in mind, a straight wheel seemed reasonable to me as its all I have ever known with this truck. I don't know if my rag joint is a tooth-off or not, it just seems like an easy thing for me to have missed.
I thought it could be possible that all of this could be adjusted out with the tie rods. It crossed my mind that re-adjusting the rag joint, or moving my wheel could work. My aim here is to learn some stuff and discuss before tearing more stuff apart.
Edit: the metric they "fixed" from the 1st to the 2nd alignment was cross camber. After comparing the alignment sheets, it looks like they sent it out the 1st time with that out of spec then fixed it the 2nd time.
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my valve cover gaskets (done by prev owner) went bad even faster than that
Man that sucks smh. Thanks for the info, guess I have some work to do lol.
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll make sure I do it right when I get in there smh.
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