well i ended up buying one for $100. i saw the car it came off of and there was a small front end collision on the front passenger side.. didn't seem like it would be enough to set off the airbag so hopefully everythings okay.. wish there was an easier to get a new oem one, would even pay parts dept prices for it
The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread
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well i ended up buying one for $100. i saw the car it came off of and there was a small front end collision on the front passenger side.. didn't seem like it would be enough to set off the airbag so hopefully everythings okay.. wish there was an easier to get a new oem one, would even pay parts dept prices for it
405Runner
New member
Another heater issue. LOL.
Think I'm about ready to just replace the core.
Flushed it w/CLR, checked the valve, all my actuators are working right, coolant is good.
But it seems like my heat is intermittent. Blow real hot then for no reason it'll significantly cool off. No idea whats going on. When I did the core flush it seemed to flow fine.
ideas?
Think I'm about ready to just replace the core.
Flushed it w/CLR, checked the valve, all my actuators are working right, coolant is good.
But it seems like my heat is intermittent. Blow real hot then for no reason it'll significantly cool off. No idea whats going on. When I did the core flush it seemed to flow fine.
ideas?
Aside from the crooked wheel thing.
Does anyone know what could cause an oil leak on the starter motor? I fixed the big leaks and cleaned everything. Some mirror+Flashlight work shows the Valve Cover clean 1,000mi after fixing that. However, I keep seeing a very small drip form on the bottom of the starter motor. It's not on the motor itself, but a little rubber plug thingy sticking out of it. The starter body itself is dry.
I've also seen a hint of oil pop up on the bellhousing. My best guess would be the rear main seal leaking and oil somehow getting flung upwards onto the starter. Although, that doesn't exactly make sense.
Does anyone know what could cause an oil leak on the starter motor? I fixed the big leaks and cleaned everything. Some mirror+Flashlight work shows the Valve Cover clean 1,000mi after fixing that. However, I keep seeing a very small drip form on the bottom of the starter motor. It's not on the motor itself, but a little rubber plug thingy sticking out of it. The starter body itself is dry.
I've also seen a hint of oil pop up on the bellhousing. My best guess would be the rear main seal leaking and oil somehow getting flung upwards onto the starter. Although, that doesn't exactly make sense.
Fried4runner
New member
Has anyone used a pedal commander or similar on 01-02
phattyduck
Elite Member
[MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION] also pointed out one can... my info is either dated or completely incorrect even before 2024, I've been going off what a yard told me yrs ago. I tried to look up a Federal law and couldn't find anything, did find info about the hassle a yard has to go through to make sure there wasn't any recall on the airbags, guessing I was just given the "**** off" answer because they get tired of telling people they don't sell said and I have been repeating what I was told. Glad u got what u needed.
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That's a rear main seal leak. The rear main leaks onto the flywheel/flexplate and gets slung outward onto the interior of the bellhousing and the snout of the starter. I would recommend getting a seal saver and installer when/if you decide to replace the rear main seal.
habanero
Senior Member
You would have been and are correct up until recently. Selling airbags (at least around here) is a newer thing- they were no way no how off limits before they weren't.
If my idea of a good time wasn't poking around the self-serve junkyards chances are I wouldn't have known that either.
to be completely honest, i think the yard that i got my airbag from is probably just doing something under the table rather than you getting a wrong answer. i cant find it either, but i do remember seeing that you can only sell airbags as a "certified" vendor (even if they are used).
the yard you went to probably was just following procedure
Newly Lifted 4runner driving weird
Hey all, new to the thread and I cant get a solid answer to my problem so figured I would try to post and see if any of yall could help me out.
I had a friend help me out and lift my 2001 4runner last weekend, got bilstein 5100’s, OME springs, total chaos UCA’s, diff drop, and OME lower ball joints, plus 17” wheels w/ 33” falken rubitreks. Also have the eimkeith Panhard correction kit and extended rear brake lines but both of those are not put in yet, those will be put on soon.
Now enough backstory and to my question.
After the lift I drove it home with caution to make sure everything was fine, it was super windy that day so I was being pushed around a bit so I figured it was just wind… cut to the day after and still till today the rear end feels.. “loose” for a lack of a better term. When I am driving at low speed, say >40-45mph everything feels great, but once i get to 50 and above the rear end feels like it is wandering side to side and when it pulls too far to one side i have to SLIGHTLY correct it back to straight and if move the wheel too much it will overcorrect and then i have to fight it back to straight. It also snowed here yesterday and oh man that was bad.. i took it out in the snow slicked roads and I had to go SLOW, if i would go above say 20mph the rear end would start fishtailing and feel like it was going to spin out.. that was kinda scary lol. Anytime i hit a slick spot i feel the rear end go side to side. So I was thinking it has to be panhard bar since it is sitting an angle now and not level due to the 3” lift but anytime I research panhard bar problems its always people having problems on bumps only causing bumpsteer so now im not sure. My buddy said the rear lower control arm bushings looked fine so im not sure where i should look next if it isnt the panhard bar or lower control arms. Like I said, the eimkeith PCK will be put on very soon and I am hoping it fixes my problems but would anyone have any other ideas/has anyone had this problem?
Thanks!
Hey all, new to the thread and I cant get a solid answer to my problem so figured I would try to post and see if any of yall could help me out.
I had a friend help me out and lift my 2001 4runner last weekend, got bilstein 5100’s, OME springs, total chaos UCA’s, diff drop, and OME lower ball joints, plus 17” wheels w/ 33” falken rubitreks. Also have the eimkeith Panhard correction kit and extended rear brake lines but both of those are not put in yet, those will be put on soon.
Now enough backstory and to my question.
After the lift I drove it home with caution to make sure everything was fine, it was super windy that day so I was being pushed around a bit so I figured it was just wind… cut to the day after and still till today the rear end feels.. “loose” for a lack of a better term. When I am driving at low speed, say >40-45mph everything feels great, but once i get to 50 and above the rear end feels like it is wandering side to side and when it pulls too far to one side i have to SLIGHTLY correct it back to straight and if move the wheel too much it will overcorrect and then i have to fight it back to straight. It also snowed here yesterday and oh man that was bad.. i took it out in the snow slicked roads and I had to go SLOW, if i would go above say 20mph the rear end would start fishtailing and feel like it was going to spin out.. that was kinda scary lol. Anytime i hit a slick spot i feel the rear end go side to side. So I was thinking it has to be panhard bar since it is sitting an angle now and not level due to the 3” lift but anytime I research panhard bar problems its always people having problems on bumps only causing bumpsteer so now im not sure. My buddy said the rear lower control arm bushings looked fine so im not sure where i should look next if it isnt the panhard bar or lower control arms. Like I said, the eimkeith PCK will be put on very soon and I am hoping it fixes my problems but would anyone have any other ideas/has anyone had this problem?
Thanks!
Mendoncyclesmith
Member
Okay, here we go. I'm verbose, but try to use language to pain a clearer picture, so I can get the best info. If long posts bug you, please move along.
I'm a vehicular mechanical moron, as my other postings should have already pointed out. I'm also really busy as a one man business, and don't have endless hours to pore over endless reams of info, all from individuals with varying degrees of knowledge, cross referencing to confirm validity etc. I'm a long time bicycle mechanic and in that world, I am well versed in how many, just horrible ideas and bad info is available for the picking, on line.....
So, with that in mind, I have two different things I need help with understanding better.
Front end suspension/wheel anatomy. I've done a bunch of stuff over the last few years, much of it without knowing WTF I was doing. What I am looking to figure out is, what, if anything else, I should be addressing on a vehicle with 140K on her, given the updates I've done, how they interact with the rest of the system, and my plans to start to use it a bit more off road.
Done:
34" tires (working on clearancing, but I'm close).
New axles/CV's since the boots all exploded seemingly at once.
New lower ball joints (OEM as strongly suggested).
2" OME suspension lift.
2.5" leveling kit pucks at the tops of the strut towers.
In the works come April when she gets out of the barn:
Lower control arm bushings.
Caster adjustment cam since mine are frozen, preventing a full, proper alignment (but I'm really close, so it drives well).
Brand new JBA upper control arms to help with moving the tires forward in the wheel wells a bit for clearance.
What else is in that system? Sway bars and Stabilizer arms. Is that it?
I know I have little boots on one of those items (sorry, told you I was clueless) that are shredded, and my mechanic said not a big deal as they seemed tight and functional, and I just drive it in the summer.
I've found sway bars that are adjustable to deal with lifts, which I have. Smart, for the price? And, are these guys a good choice if it is a good idea?
Sway Bar Links
– DRZ OFF ROAD
I don't even understand what stabilizer bars do, but my reading seems to imply they are good till they break, and not to worry otherwise. I am thinking those are the things with the torn boots though, which bugs me.
And second.
On here, I was told by a few members, in passing, that "suspension lift and leveling blocks are fine, but do have drawbacks".
I have the same 2" OME suspension lift out back, as well as a 1.25" spring block to get rid of the out of level look created when the 2.5's up front, simply flipped the problem I was trying to correct.
What other lift types exist, and how serious a safety or mechanical failure issue am I facing with the parts I have.
No rock crawling or crazy extreme articulation plans, but who knows how big a rock, or log, or something I might encounter is and I don't want the body falling off the frame or whatever befalls the less than proper lifting that's been done.
With these things answered, I'll be able to hand my mechanic a pile of smart parts come Spring, wait a week, and be driving a nice, stable, good looking, highly functional off road truck without worrying about some $100 part that I shoulda, coulda, woulda....
Thanks all!
I'm a vehicular mechanical moron, as my other postings should have already pointed out. I'm also really busy as a one man business, and don't have endless hours to pore over endless reams of info, all from individuals with varying degrees of knowledge, cross referencing to confirm validity etc. I'm a long time bicycle mechanic and in that world, I am well versed in how many, just horrible ideas and bad info is available for the picking, on line.....
So, with that in mind, I have two different things I need help with understanding better.
Front end suspension/wheel anatomy. I've done a bunch of stuff over the last few years, much of it without knowing WTF I was doing. What I am looking to figure out is, what, if anything else, I should be addressing on a vehicle with 140K on her, given the updates I've done, how they interact with the rest of the system, and my plans to start to use it a bit more off road.
Done:
34" tires (working on clearancing, but I'm close).
New axles/CV's since the boots all exploded seemingly at once.
New lower ball joints (OEM as strongly suggested).
2" OME suspension lift.
2.5" leveling kit pucks at the tops of the strut towers.
In the works come April when she gets out of the barn:
Lower control arm bushings.
Caster adjustment cam since mine are frozen, preventing a full, proper alignment (but I'm really close, so it drives well).
Brand new JBA upper control arms to help with moving the tires forward in the wheel wells a bit for clearance.
What else is in that system? Sway bars and Stabilizer arms. Is that it?
I know I have little boots on one of those items (sorry, told you I was clueless) that are shredded, and my mechanic said not a big deal as they seemed tight and functional, and I just drive it in the summer.
I've found sway bars that are adjustable to deal with lifts, which I have. Smart, for the price? And, are these guys a good choice if it is a good idea?
Sway Bar Links
– DRZ OFF ROAD
I don't even understand what stabilizer bars do, but my reading seems to imply they are good till they break, and not to worry otherwise. I am thinking those are the things with the torn boots though, which bugs me.
And second.
On here, I was told by a few members, in passing, that "suspension lift and leveling blocks are fine, but do have drawbacks".
I have the same 2" OME suspension lift out back, as well as a 1.25" spring block to get rid of the out of level look created when the 2.5's up front, simply flipped the problem I was trying to correct.
What other lift types exist, and how serious a safety or mechanical failure issue am I facing with the parts I have.
No rock crawling or crazy extreme articulation plans, but who knows how big a rock, or log, or something I might encounter is and I don't want the body falling off the frame or whatever befalls the less than proper lifting that's been done.
With these things answered, I'll be able to hand my mechanic a pile of smart parts come Spring, wait a week, and be driving a nice, stable, good looking, highly functional off road truck without worrying about some $100 part that I shoulda, coulda, woulda....
Thanks all!
It would be far easier to just replace the instrument cluster bulbs.
New to this but help needed, no crank or start on 99 T4R Limited 3.4L v6
I had this issue last month but was cranking, threw it in neutral pumped the brakes and got it to start, hadn't had an issue since. This week it has been below 10 degrees most of the week, and now it won't crank at all, battery is running 12v, I am thinking it's fuel related but am not completely sure, I have read start relay could be the culprit but I don't think it is. Any help would be great!!
I had this issue last month but was cranking, threw it in neutral pumped the brakes and got it to start, hadn't had an issue since. This week it has been below 10 degrees most of the week, and now it won't crank at all, battery is running 12v, I am thinking it's fuel related but am not completely sure, I have read start relay could be the culprit but I don't think it is. Any help would be great!!
Twisted Sid
Member
After doing all that work and adding on new parts, did you take it in for an alignment?
It's very true but I am sort of planning to put a multi color LED strip and arduino controller behind the OEM knob so I can rave out down the highway
So my friend did the alignment for me right after doing all the work. He works at a shop so he had everything there. I was thinking maybe i should take it for another alignment just to double check but I was going to wait till after the eimkeith PCK was added. Should I just get another alignment done before that anyways you think?
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