The 3rd Gen All Questions Allowed Thread

[habanero]

Thanks, this is super helpful. I have an OEM gasket for the tailgate "garnish" (license plate surround) that I have avoided installing due to not wanting to deal with the tailgate internals. Sounds like that part should be very accessible for removal during the rear window replacement?

I've not tried to access the surround, nor have I studied it. It looks like it could be done with the window up? You can see part of where the surround is in this pic (ignore red circle- that's the release for the hatch latch and connector for the dome light) and what looks like a nut that should be for the surround a bit to the left of said circle... there's bound to be several more if I'm right...

One day when the key cylinder falls in as they sometimes do, that's the day I'll be able to answer the question! I kinda want to go look for my ownself. Maybe when it's warmer as my 'garage' is actually just the driveway.

Do you have the part number for the gasket? I am intrigued.

 

[I❤️4runners]

Hey guys, got a question: I'm looking at replacing the front bumper on my 3rd gen and I'm wondering about potential weight issues in the front end and if I need to upgrade my front suspension. The front is currently riding on some aftermarket Detroit Axel strut assys that gave me about and inch of lift and "supposed" to be stiffer than stock. Now I'm looking at a light weight steel bumper that's powder coated and has turn signals that weighs in at 45lbs. The stock bumper on a 3rd gen weighs a little over 20lbs. Do any of you think that I'll need to upgrade front suspension with the additional 25lbs? I'm thinking I'll be OK but I wanted to check with you all first. I'm also sick of my 33s scrubbing the bumper every time I have to turn the wheel hard.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

One day when the key cylinder falls in as they sometimes do, that's the day I'll be able to answer the question! I kinda want to go look for my ownself. Maybe when it's warmer as my 'garage' is actually just the driveway.

I may do the same - I also want to paint the actual trim piece off the truck, so that will all wait till I have the right facility (and time and motivation ).

Do you have the part number for the gasket? I am intrigued.

Maybe . I bought 76825-35020 because Partsouq said it will fit my '97. But other sites say that part number is for '99-02. I guess I'll find out, and will let you know!

 

[habanero]

I may do the same - I also want to paint the actual trim piece off the truck, so that will all wait till I have the right facility (and time and motivation ).



Maybe . I bought 76825-35020 because Partsouq said it will fit my '97. But other sites say that part number is for '99-02. I guess I'll find out, and will let you know!

Nice, thanks! I did a quick perusal of threads pertaining to that gasket, somebody mentioned it was a bit of work and needing to remove the rear window. Someone else said that gasket was for the 99-02, but maybe it'd work for us? Now I'm even more curious. There's the hubby's 99 sitting next to my 96, it's dark now so tomorrow I'll try to remember to look for differences.

EDIT: It's morning, it's cold, I did some heat-gun stuff and some surround pics...
It's 32 degrees. Several minutes after the side mirror got to 108 the rear made it to 52 degrees at the edges, and 43 was the best I could pick out of the middle. While this one is still way better than my original, well, let me know what [MENTION=636945]Spiker Engineering[/MENTION] your new rear window does. Simply because curious.
The pattern after about 10 minutes, you can see it's not the best, but it has been getting enough done to help with the scraping. It's only cold condensation today, not ice.

The 96s surround. Emblem centered on 18", photo cropped at the 30" mark on both sides
The lock cylinder looks to be in the same place, for comparison.

The 99s, same deal. It's approx an inch wider, and shaped differently. Sorry about the hard to read yardstick, it was facing the sunrise

Sometimes it's nice to have 2 3rd gens with similar drivetrains, but different cosmetics.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

It's 32 degrees. Several minutes after the side mirror got to 108 the rear made it to 52 degrees at the edges, and 43 was the best I could pick out of the middle. While this one is still way better than my original, well, let me know what [MENTION=636945]Spiker Engineering[/MENTION] your new rear window does. Simply because curious.

Hmmm, that's interesting, and not exactly awe inspiring . I'll certainly report back after I get a new rear window put in. In the meantime, I'll try this experiment on my Lexus, maybe this is normal behavior for rear defoggers. Of course my Lexus is pushing 23 years at this point, so it may not be the best representation. Oh, but wait, I had a new rear window put into it only about 5 years ago, so it'll be a good comparison... This is so exciting!

The 96s surround. Emblem centered on 18", photo cropped at the 30" mark on both sides
The lock cylinder looks to be in the same place, for comparison.

The 99s, same deal. It's approx an inch wider, and shaped differently. Sorry about the hard to read yardstick, it was facing the sunrise

Sometimes it's nice to have 2 3rd gens with similar drivetrains, but different cosmetics.

Thanks for doing the legwork on this [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION]! So if anything, the '99 may be larger, hence its gasket/seal may be larger than the one I need for the '97? The seal looks to be just a round piece of foam/rubber type thing, so hopefully the '99 is similar enough for me to use in my '97, after trimming - fingers crossed. Given that I haven't been able to find the gasket for the '97, this may be my best bet anyway.

I did find that thread I recalled mentioning needing to yank the whole door apart, it was [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] 's thread on his 2000 Limited. Start at post 22, then some subsequent posts discuss the details - https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/247329-2000-limited-sleepydad-build-2.html#post2860355

 

[habanero]

Hmmm, that's interesting, and not exactly awe inspiring . I'll certainly report back after I get a new rear window put in. In the meantime, I'll try this experiment on my Lexus,... I had a new rear window put into it only about 5 years ago, so it'll be a good comparison... This is so exciting!

...So if anything, the '99 may be larger, hence its gasket/seal may be larger than the one I need for the '97? The seal looks to be just a round piece of foam/rubber type thing, so hopefully the '99 is similar enough for me to use in my '97, after trimming - fingers crossed. Given that I haven't been able to find the gasket for the '97, this may be my best bet anyway.

I did find that thread I recalled mentioning needing to yank the whole door apart, it was [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] 's thread on his 2000 Limited. Start at post 22, then some subsequent posts discuss the details - https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/247329-2000-limited-sleepydad-build-2.html#post2860355

I need to change my moniker to Habanerd....
Would love to see what you get from your 5 year old window. I wasn't expecting the same temps as the side mirrors, but it looks like I'm losing uniformity as well as more of the zip in the rear window. Am also gonna keep an eye out for your results on the gasket, if and when you go for it. Nice find in sleepydad's thread!

 

[dotinfo]

There is 7.5 amp fuse marked drl under the hood.

Thank you!

 

[sleepydad]

Hmmm, that's interesting, and not exactly awe inspiring . I'll certainly report back after I get a new rear window put in. In the meantime, I'll try this experiment on my Lexus, maybe this is normal behavior for rear defoggers. Of course my Lexus is pushing 23 years at this point, so it may not be the best representation. Oh, but wait, I had a new rear window put into it only about 5 years ago, so it'll be a good comparison... This is so exciting!

I did find that thread I recalled mentioning needing to yank the whole door apart, it was [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] 's thread on his 2000 Limited. Start at post 22, then some subsequent posts discuss the details - https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/247329-2000-limited-sleepydad-build-2.html#post2860355

I have a 1998 and a 2000 and yes the 99+ BACK DOOR OUTSIDE GARNISH got a size increase in 99.

the 99+ gasket will work just fine but the corners are pre-notched in the weather stripping so they will not totally line up perfectly, not the end of the world.

you do have to losen some nuts that are a pain, it's not a relaxing thing but also not impossible.

good luck

 

[Spiker Engineering]

I have a 1998 and a 2000 and yes the 99+ BACK DOOR OUTSIDE GARNISH got a size increase in 99.

the 99+ gasket will work just fine but the corners are pre-notched in the weather stripping so they will not totally line up perfectly, not the end of the world.

you do have to losen some nuts that are a pain, it's not a relaxing thing but also not impossible.

good luck

Thanks for the feedback, this is good to know. Since I can't find this gasket for the '97, I'm thinking that the '99+ version will be as good as it'll get. I'll report back on how it goes.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

So I checked the rear defroster on our 2001 Lexus with the 5 year rear window - mirrors hit 110F within a few minutes, but the rear glass only got to about 49F on a 44F day, sad!

I found this tidbit, not sure how reliable it is, that a rear defroster is supposed to get to 85F - Defroster Repair and Troubleshooting Guide – Frost Fighter & Clear View

Maybe someone with a more recent vehicle than my old fleet can confirm .

 

[Devbot]

Welp, looks like Toyota is wrong. Ordered the 07024 o-ring and they're slightly bigger than what comes on the injectors. Gonna have to try 07001. Should've listened to MotorWest and Timmy/Sean in the first place :doh:

Update: They're the same damn part! Just picked up the o-rings that go to the 1MZ (07001) and they are the exact same and the 5VZ (07024) - same exact thickness and size. Why Toyota doesn't list them as the same part is beyond me, they're both clearly made of Viton as well :ranger:
So if you ever need injector O-rings and your dealership is out, ask if they have any for a Sienna

 

[phattyduck]

Thanks for the feedback, this is good to know. Since I can't find this gasket for the '97, I'm thinking that the '99+ version will be as good as it'll get. I'll report back on how it goes.

Once the inner panel is off (with rear window up), it is just a few 10mm nuts, one rod to the lock cylinder and then annoying put clips. The clips can be removed with careful use of needle nose pliers to squeeze while pulling/pushing the garnish out. I found it annoying but not terribly difficult. I do still need to re-stick my outer lip seal back on one side, the glue I used didn't work long term.

-Charlie

 

[Johnnyboyyyy]

Popping sound at slow speeds.

I have a 99' 2wd 4runner with 260k that has been making a popping/knocking which seems to be coming from the rear right suspension (I could be wrong but thats where it sounds like its coming from). It generally only happens at low speeds when coming to a stop or accelerating. Also occasionally hear it when making turns too.

I've lifted it in the back and checked out all the suspension components and other than everything being pretty old, nothing seems to be loose or look out of place. I also recently replaced the axle seal which had leaked into the drum and did my best to clean out the drum and sand down the brake shoes. I have some new shoes coming in the mail now and will be replacing them soon but I dont think the noise is caused by the brakes. Does anyone have any ideas about what I should do to try to pinpoint the noise?

 

[Kaptainkrollio]

Does every aftermarket brake shoe require an aftermarket auto adjuster kit? Seems like any shoe kit that is not OEM does not have the slot or peg to retain the original auto adjuster.

 

[Mommashark]

97 SR5 cyl 1 & 3 misfire & fuel issue

I have a 97 SR5, with 235k-ish miles. Was driving fine, then starting misfiring pretty bad. Tracked it down and it was an injector. Went ahead and replaced all 6 with reman denso injectors. It’s run like complete garbage since. I’ve gone back over everything I’ve touched to make sure things are seated, connected, and working. Replaced the wires, swapped the coil packs around to rule that out. I finally decided that maybe I rolled an o-ring or pinched one when I did the injectors. I had a friends shop run through it- they’ve swapped out the injectors for 1 & 3, and the issue didn’t resolve. I have compression in all 6 cylinders. But have a horrible misfire and it seems like it’s dumping fuel.
At idle, she will sit and run, anywhere from her normal to a little bit rough… but once you start driving it’s underpowered and misfiring. The mechanic said it hasn’t jumped time- since that was my next route.
I need help please! Can someone point me in a direction to go. This is my daily & I haven’t been able to drive her in like 6 months and I’m tired of my sedan. *

 

[dbdataplus]

3rd gen LED Tail light issue. Again.

I replaced my tail light bulbs with LED bulbs and had the ABS light issue: Error Code 49 (Stoplight circuit error). After experimenting with a couple of different types, I found that CanBus Error Free seemed to work just fine. I drove for a week with no ABS issues.

Then while driving at night I got the ABS light. The next day it was gone. Not being overly bright it took me three days to equate turning the lights on with the ABS error. Now it's proven: Drive with lights off - no error - turn lights on, immediate error. Lights off, stop and restart, no ABS. Lights on - error returns.

Now with the first bulbs, I got the error right way - always - regardless if the lights were on or not. So my question is - what's going on that the system now detects the error ONLY when the lights are on?

 

[phattyduck]

I replaced my tail light bulbs with LED bulbs and had the ABS light issue: Error Code 49 (Stoplight circuit error). After experimenting with a couple of different types, I found that CanBus Error Free seemed to work just fine. I drove for a week with no ABS issues.

Then while driving at night I got the ABS light. The next day it was gone. Not being overly bright it took me three days to equate turning the lights on with the ABS error. Now it's proven: Drive with lights off - no error - turn lights on, immediate error. Lights off, stop and restart, no ABS. Lights on - error returns.

Now with the first bulbs, I got the error right way - always - regardless if the lights were on or not. So my question is - what's going on that the system now detects the error ONLY when the lights are on?

Sounds like the new LED bulbs don't load the brake light side the same when the lights are on. Put a load resistor on the brake light circuit and you'll be fine.

-Charlie

 

[phattyduck]

I have a 97 SR5, with 235k-ish miles. Was driving fine, then starting misfiring pretty bad. Tracked it down and it was an injector. Went ahead and replaced all 6 with reman denso injectors. It’s run like complete garbage since.

What was the source of those injectors? If you still have the old ones, have them cleaned/serviced and re-installed. Sounds like they are just the wrong injectors (or knock-offs sold as Denso re-mans).

-Charlie

 

[DJRodriguez88]

Hey guys, is there a specific way to run a 5vz without the thermostat?

I'm having some overheating issues and I need to get my 4runner back home (~25miles up a steep mountain) so i can dig into it or to the nearest shop. So I would like to try running without a thermostat to see if it will get me moving.

The gasket/o-ring sits on the thermostat itself, so i'm worried that removing the thermostat will cause the water neck to leak badly since there's no more gasket

 

[phattyduck]

Hey guys, is there a specific way to run a 5vz without the thermostat?

I'm having some overheating issues and I need to get my 4runner back home (~25miles up a steep mountain) so i can dig into it or to the nearest shop. So I would like to try running without a thermostat to see if it will get me moving.

The gasket/o-ring sits on the thermostat itself, so i'm worried that removing the thermostat will cause the water neck to leak badly since there's no more gasket

You'd need to drill/punch/cut/whatever a thermostat so that the outer ring can hold the gasket. Is AAA and towing out of the question?

-Charlie